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Section 


THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 
IN  PEACE  AND  REVOLUTION 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2016 


https://archive.org/details/thirtyyearswithm00case_0 


(c)  Underwood  & Underwood 

“ Se  Venden  Chiles!  “ Peppers  for  Sale!  ” 


THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE 
MEXICANS:  IN  PEACE 
AND  REVOLUTION 


BY 


y 


ALDEN  BUELL  CASE 


ILLUSTRATED 


New  York  Chicago  Toronto 

Fleming  H.  Revell  Company 


London 


Edinburgh 


191! 


AND 


Copyright,  1917,  by 
FLEMING  H.  REVELL  COMPANY 


New  York:  158  Fifth  Avenue 
Chicago:  17  N.  Wabash  Ave. 
Toronto : 25  Richmond  St.,  W. 
London:  21  Paternoster  Square 
Edinburgh:  100  Princes  Street 


INSCRIBED  AFFECTIONATELY  TO 
MY  WIFE. 


INTRODUCTION 


THE  special  situation  in  Mexico  at  the  present 
time  and  the  relations  subsisting  between  that 
republic  and  our  own,  make  important  to 
American  readers  all  possible  light  upon  the  Mexican 
people  and  their  problems.  Of  all  literature,  that  is 
the  most  useful  which  is  the  result  of  sympathetic  and 
close  personal  relations.  The  writer  has  had  the  privi- 
lege of  travelling  a little  in  Mexico  with  Dr.  Case, 
particularly  in  those  regions  of  Chihuahua  which  were 
most  recently  his  home,  and  can  give  personal  testi- 
mony to  the  intimate  friendship  existing  between  Dr. 
Case  and  the  Mexican  people,  and  to  the  heroism  with 
which  he  went  on  about  his  accustomed  life  in  Mexico 
during  years  when  the  northern  states  were  overrun 
with  disorganized  bands  of  soldiers  and  outlaws  and 
life  there  was  full  of  danger.  His  book  presents  a 
series  of  views  of  Mexican  life,  the  veracity  of  which 
is  apparent  to  any  one  who  has  visited  Mexico,  and  his 
conclusions  with  respect  to  the  Mexican  people  and 
their  future  are  the  thoughts  of  a man  of  close  powers 
of  observation,  sympathetic  insight,  and  long  experi- 
ence in  analyzing  the  characters  of  men  of  another 
race  and  heritage  from  ourselves. 

David  P.  Barrows, 
Dean  of  University  of  California 


CONTENTS 


PART  FIRST— IN  PEACE 


i. 

ARRIVAL  IN  THE  DREAMLAND. 

Boyish  sympathy  with  the  Aztecs.  Missionary  appoint- 
ment to  Aztec  Land.  The  journey.  El  Paso.  The  Custom 
House.  Chihuahua  City.  Surprises 19 


II. 

FROM  CHIHUAHUA  TO  PARRAL. 

The  landscape.  Herds  of  cattle.  Agricultural  possibil- 
ities. Smiling  Francisco.  A strange  traveling  companion 
and  an  exciting  night  at  the  Jimenez  inn 23 


III. 

STAGE-RIDE  AND  STARTING  IN. 

The  glorious  morning.  The  six-mule  team.  Curious  way- 
side  scenes.  Parral.  The  view.  Mexican  welcome.  Amer- 
icans. Studying  Spanish.  The  ex-priest.  Jesusita.  The 
market 27 


IV. 

WHAT  THEY  THOUGHT  OF  THE  PROTESTANTS. 

The  first  service.  A mob.  “ Here  live  the  demons.” 
Pulpit  warnings.  A Protestant  baby.  Scripture  sales. 

Bible  burning *33 

7 


8 


CONTENTS 


V. 

NOVEL  STREET  SCENES. 

The  climate.  Adobe  buildings.  Housetops.  Water- 
women.  Adobe  ovens.  Wood-laden  burros.  Walking 
corn  shocks.  Fourteen-mule  wagons.  Two-wheel  carts. 
Street  venders.  The  bread-boy.  The  candy-woman.  The 
milkman.  A funeral  procession 38 

VI. 

INTERESTING  INCIDENTS. 

Absurd  stories.  Curiosity  leads  to  conversion.  Growth. 
Persecution.  “ Heretic  ” husband.  Exiled  father.  Con- 
verted carpenter.  “Where  was  this  light  hidden?”  The 
Santa  Barbara  trip.  Opposition  results  favorably.  New 
buckboard.  New  missionaries 44 

VII. 

A THREE-HUNDRED-MILE  TOUR. 

Day-school.  Church  organization.  The  trip.  Welcome. 
Rejection.  La  Cruz.  El  Saucillo.  Arrest.  Trial.  Expul- 
sion. The  conference.  Satevo.  The  fine  congregation. 

The  desperado.  Zaragoza.  Snowstorm 49 

VIII. 

MEXICAN  HOME  LIFE. 

Foods ; tortillas,  peppers,  “ Come  to  beans.”  Drinks.  The 
kitchen.  Large  families.  Infant  mortality.  Dogs,  chickens, 
pigs.  Bedroom  companions.  Custom  of  meals,  of  sleeping. 

The  furniture.  Little  fruit.  The  cold.  Few  comforts. 

The  milking.  Ranch  butter,  “ whew ! ” Homely  cheer. 

The  aged  horse-tamer 58 


IX. 

A MEXICAN  MISSIONARY  FAMILY. 

The  “ Baby  ” organ.  “ Wolves  in  sheep’s  clothing.”  Prog- 
ress. A strange  meeting.  A family’s  conversion.  Their 
mission.  “John  of  the  Devil.”  Patience  and  success.  . 71 


X. 

HOW  THE  RANCHERS  BUILT  THEIR  CHURCH. 

Brigandage.  Traveling  alone.  “Held  up.”  Las  Cuevas. 
The  old  tower.  Church  beginnings.  Adobe  making.  Adobe 


CONTENTS 


9 


floor,  roof.  Cotton  windows.  School.  Worth  while? 
Touring  with  family.  A ducking.  Doomed  goats.  Wild 
game 75 


XI. 

FROM  PARRAL  TO  THE  CAPITAL. 

Frosty  Zacatecas.  Hot  waters.  Laundry,  bathing.  Cli- 
mate. Landscape.  Fruit.  Lagos.  Experience  in  a church 
tower.  Guanajuato.  “ Quaintest  spot.”  Silver  mines.  Ira- 
puato.  Strawberries.  Queretaro.  Maximilian.  The  Mex- 
ican plateau 84 


XII. 

IN  MEXICO  CITY. 

The  Aztecs.  The  Cathedral.  View  from  tower.  Lakes. 
Canals.  “ Floating  Gardens.”  Public  buildings.  The  opal 
merchant.  Flower  girls.  Cane  vender.  The  “ Thieves’ 
market.”  Pulque.  Queer  signs  and  street  names.  Thirty- 
two  smells.  Paseo  de  la  Reforma.  Chapultepec.  Popoca- 
tepetl. The  National  Museum.  The  Sacrificial  Stone.  The 
Inquisition.  Y.  M.  C.  A.  Missions 92 

PART  SECOND— IN  REVOLUTION 

I. 

EL  VALLE  AND  LA  CASA  GRANDE. 

A famous  valley.  Prosperous  town.  Climate.  Produc- 
tions. Stores.  Schools.  Churches.  Seclusion.  The  river. 
Prehistoric  ruins.  The  Dolores  hacienda.  “ The  Great 
House.”  The  purchase.  Plan  of  enterprise.  The  orchard. 
Interest  of  neighbors.  Reconstruction.  Faithful  depend- 
ents. Social  gatherings.  Mission  work.  Vacation  joys  . 105 

II. 

THE  REVOLUTION  STRIKES  EL  VALLE. 

Political  uneasiness.  Causes  of  the  revolution.  Anti-re- 
election clubs.  Disquieting  rumors.  Preparing  for  defense. 
Diverse  sympathies.  Delay.  Startling  events.  Arrival  of 
the  insurgents.  600  armed  guests.  The  demand.  The  re- 
ply. The  battle.  The  wounded  and  prisoners.  Don  Ramon. 

A huge  fright.  Fair  treatment 116 


10 


CONTENTS 


III. 

EL  VALLE  “REVOLUTIONIZED.” 

The  hospital.  A task.  A commission.  Alarming  counter 
attack.  Flight  of  patients.  Bloody  battle.  Havoc  in  El 
Valle.  Pandemonium.  Not  bandits.  A store  sacked.  Cow- 
boy clothing.  Change  of  apparel.  Forced  loans.  The  beef 
supply.  The  disposition  of  loot.  Alarms.  The  house  of 
refuge 127 

IV. 

MADERO  AND  ANTI-MADERO. 

Military  rule.  Insecurity.  Foreigners  favored.  Disci- 
pline. Madero  arrives.  Impressions.  Period  of  peace. 
Sudden  counter  revolution.  Intolerable  suffering.  Heavy 
levies.  Ravages  of  retreating  armies.  Civility  of  Gen. 
Campos.  Wholesale  horse  stealing.  Successful  scheme. 
Thrilling  months 138 


V. 

CONDITIONS — JOURNEYS  BY  DAY  AND  BY  NIGHT. 

No  danger  of  starvation.  Intervals  of  quiet.  Perils  of 
travel.  Scarcity  of  groceries.  Hospital  needs.  A night  trip 
to  the  station.  Scrutinizing  sentinels.  Handsome  officers. 

An  encounter  with  cows.  Told  to  pass  on.  Meeting  a de- 
feated army.  Relieved  of  raincoat.  Visit  of  “Red-flag” 
scouts.  Between  two  troops.  A 470-mile  drive  for  home 
letters 149 


VI. 

MIDNIGHT  VISITORS. 

Increasing  seriousness  of  situation.  “ Red-flagger  ” mo- 
lestations. A friendly  warning.  Preparing  for  robbers. 
Called  to  the  door.  Useless  parley.  “ $500,  or  your  life  ! ” 
Breaking  in.  Small  change  refused.  Cowardly  blow.  Ef- 
fective sermons.  The  gun-guarded  wife.  The  Casa  Grande 
unsafe.  The  trip  to  the  border 163 

VII. 

STILL  MORE  YEARS  OF  REVOLUTION. 

Outrages  of  the  “ Colorados.”  The  insurgents’  life.  Casa 
Grande  cattle.  Francisco  Villa  a bandit  hunter.  His  paper 
money.  The  economic  situation.  Soldiers’  beef.  The  sor- 
ghum man.  $150.00  shoes.  A 700-mile  trip  for  $1.61.  Good 
time  to  build.  Villa  in  El  Valle.  American  soldiers. 
What  Mexicans  think.  Praying  for  peace  ...  .173 


CONTENTS 


11 


PART  THIRD— PAST,  PRESENT,  AND 
OUTLOOK 

i. 

CAUSES  OF  BACKWARDNESS— GOVERNMENTAL. 

Mexicans  disparaged.  Unfair  opinion.  Disadvantages. 
Origin.  Cruelties  and  abuses  in  the  Colonial  period.  The 
privileged  class.  Denied  education.  New  difficulties  on 
gaining  independence.  The  tories.  Succession  of  revolu- 
tions. The  Patriots,  Hidalgo,  Morelos,  Guerrero,  Juarez. 

The  Reform  Laws.  Plagued  with  bad  leaders.  Progress 
in  face  of  persistent  opposition 189 

II. 

CAUSES  OF  BACKWARDNESS— ECCLESIASTICAL. 

Rome  back  of  governmental  abuses.  Enormous  wealth  of 
the  Church.  Million-dollar  petticoats.  Millions  in  con- 
vents. A petition.  Enforced  labor.  Opposition  to  move- 
ment for  freedom.  Laws  denounced  by  the  pope.  Method 
of  “ conversion.”  “ A dead  faith.”  Immoral  clergy.  Hor- 
rible self-scourging.  The  Church  losing  its  hold.  A failure 
in  Mexico . 199 


III. 

PROTESTANTISM  IN  MEXICO. 

Reform  Laws  and  religious  freedom.  Melinda  Rankin. 
Missions  open  in  1872.  Forces  employed.  Fruits.  Schools. 
Presses.  Opposition.  Protestants  win  respect.  “ It  is  not 
true.”  The  schools  filled.  Talented  graduates  fill  influential 
positions.  Recent  increase  of  interest  .....  212 

IV. 

THE  MEXICAN  PEOPLE  AS  I KNOW  THEM. 

Opportunities  for  acquaintance.  The  Tarahumares. 
Yaquis.  The  upper  class.  Unfair  practices.  The  peons. 
Small  farmers.  Communal  idea.  Attractive  traits,  courte- 
ous, kind-hearted,  hospitable,  reverent.  Matin  singing. 
Faithful  friends.  Destructive  vices.  Manana  disposition. 

Don  Nicolas’  impressions  of  Chicago 222 


12 


CONTENTS 


V. 


MEXICANS  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

Pouring  across  the  line.  What  they  do.  How  they  live. 
Reputation.  Good  qualities.  Religion.  Influences  here. 
What  our  churches  are  doing.  95%  still  unreached.  Urgent 
need  of  social  service  work.  The  children  in  our  public 
schools.  The  Mexican  problem  cannot  be  ignored  . . 237 

VI. 

AMERICANS  IN  MEXICO. 

They  were  everywhere.  What  they  were  doing.  Large  en- 
terprises. Colonies.  Many  still  there.  Mexican  wives. 
Enormous  investments.  Benefit  to  Mexico.  Ill-will? 
Why?  Mexican  war.  Bad  Americans.  Unfair  conces- 
sions. Unwarranted  interference.  What  Americans  think 
of  the  present  political  outlook 249 

VII. 

AMERICAN  HELP  FOR  MEXICO— EDUCATIONAL 

Better  acquaintance  needed,  and  more  sympathy.  Mean- 
ing of  the  revolutions.  Fail  through  ignorance.  Need  of 
schools.  New  Protestant  institutions  planned.  What  emi- 
nent men  say  of  an  American  university  for  Mexico. 
Newell  Dwight  Hillis  and  others 260 

VIII. 

AMERICAN  HELP  FOR  MEXICO— RELIGIOUS. 

Need  of  the  Gospel.  Forward  movement  in  missions. 

The  Cincinnati  Conference.  Letters  from  Board  Secre- 
taries. Remarkable  awakening.  What  if  Villa  had  been 
converted?  Who  will  be  the  Good  Samaritan?  . . . 270 

IX. 

AMERICAN  HELP  FOR  MEXICO— SOCIAL. 

A country  of  amazing  resources.  Americans  needed.  At- 
tractions. Call  to  young  people.  Motives.  Become  citi- 
zens. Leaders.  Social  centres.  Examples  of  Christian 
living  needed.  An  invasion  of  Christian  influence  will 
transform  Mexico 277 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

FACING 

PAGE 

“ Se  Venden  Chiles!  ” — “ Peppers  for  Sale!  ” . Title 

A Mexican  Market 32 

A Picnic  in  El  Valle 60 

Mexican  Laundry 82 

Ancient  Ruins — Casas  Grandes  . > 108 

Interior  Court — La  Casa  Grande  ...  > 108 

A Military  Train . 132 

The  Place  Swarming  with  Soldiery  . . 132 

Pima  Indians  of  Sonora 224 

Homes  and  Natives  of  Tehuantepec  Isthmus  . 264 


PREFACE 


THE  average  American  has  a poor  opinion  of 
Mexico.  Our  newspapers  report  little  else 
from  that  country  than  stories  of  uprisings,  of 
strife  between  opposing  factions,  of  treacherous  lead- 
ers, of  wholesale  desertions  from  one  side  to  another, 
of  executions  before  firing  squads,  of  the  taking  and 
re-taking  of  towns,  of  bandit  raids  and  of  increasingly 
hopeless  disorder. 

Hearing  only  such  things  as  these,  it  is  not  strange 
that  many  good  people  have  little  respect  for  Mexico. 
But  Americans  should  bear  in  mind  that  a very  con- 
siderable part  of  the  newspaper  accounts  prove  to  be 
without  foundation;  also  that  for  every  horrifying 
thing  reported  a hundred  pleasing  truths  might  be  told 
about  that  country.  It  should  be  known  that  the  Mexi- 
cans are  peace-loving;  that,  while  some  sections  are 
disturbed,  the  vast  majority  of  the  people  are  engaged 
in  their  usual  employments.  They  are  themselves  dis- 
gusted with  the  long-continued  disorders  in  their  be- 
loved land  and  are  earnestly  praying  for  peace. 

If  the  American  people  knew  the  Mexicans  of  all 
classes  as  I do,  they  would  not  fail  to  esteem  them. 
The  object  of  this  book  is  to  present  our  Southern 
neighbors  as  they  really  are — both  in  peace  and  in 
revolution. 

There  is  no  fiction  in  these  pages.  Pleasant  were 

15 


16 


PREFACE 


those  years  of  peace  in  Aztec  Land.  I have  only 
happy  memories  of  the  Mexicans  there,  of  the  dear 
old  American  Board  and  of  my  missionary  associates. 

What  has  been  written  of  revolutionary  experiences 
may  not  be  without  interest,  but  if  you  cannot  read  the 
entire  volume,  please  read  the  last  three  chapters. 

I am  deeply  grateful  to  Miss  Jacobus,  of  the 
Pomona  City  Library,  to  Dr.  George  F.  Kenngott,  of 
Los  Angeles,  to  Dean  David  P.  Barrows,  of  the  Uni- 
versity of  California,  and  especially  to  my  wife  and 
children  for  inspiration  given  me  in  the  preparation 
of  the  manuscript. 

A.  B.  C. 

Pomona,  Calif. 


PART  FIRST 

IN  PEACE 


♦ 


i 

ARRIVAL  IN  THE  DREAMLAND 


MY  interest  in  Aztec  Land  dates  back  more  than 
fifty  years  to  the  time  when,  as  a boy,  I read 
Prescott’s  “ History  of  the  Conquest  of  Mex- 
ico.” No  book  ever  seemed  to  get  hold  of  me  as  that 
did.  I re-read  it,  my  young  blood  boiling  at  the  cruel- 
ties of  the  Spaniards  and  my  sympathies  aglow  for 
the  unfortunate  Aztecs.  For  years  thereafter  Mexico 
was  the  land  of  my  dreams,  the  country  I most  desired 
to  see;  but  that  the  opportunity  would  ever  come 
seemed  improbable ! 

A foreign  mission  field,  which  my  mother  had 
hoped  would  call  some  one  of  her  boys,  entirely  passed 
from  my  thoughts  when  I accepted  the  call  of  a North- 
west frontier  church  nearly  forty  years  ago.  And 
yet,  in  early  October  of  ’84,  I left  a Dakota  pastorate 
with  my  young  wife,  on  an  El  Paso  “ Overland,” 
destined  to  join  the  new  mission  of  the  American 
Board  in  northern  Mexico.  That  was  a journey  of 
extraordinary  interest.  From  Denver  we  went  by  the 
Santa  Fe  to  Albuquerque,  where  we  were  entertained 
a day  at  the  home  of  a dear  old  college  professor. 
There,  in  the  “ Old  Town,”  we  encountered  our  first 
Mexicans,  and  were  not  a little  surprised  to  learn  that 
New  Mexico  was  more  Spanish  than  American,  which 

10 


20  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


is  still  true:  there  has  been,  as  yet,  little  change  in 
language  and  customs  from  the  days  when  all  that 
great  Southwest  was  a part  of  Mexico.  Few  are 
aware  (as  we  were  not)  that  the  city  of  Santa  Fe  was 
a well-established  Spanish  town  years  before  the  Pil- 
grims landed  on  the  Atlantic  coast. 

We  crossed  the  international  line  at  El  Paso,  a town 
of  rapidly  increasing  importance  since  the  completion 
of  the  railway  to  Mexico  City,  less  than  two  years 
before.  Several  days  of  patience-wearying  red  tape 
were  passed  in  getting  our  household  stuff  through  the 
customs  office  on  the  Mexican  side,  though  the  leisurely 
officials  were  civil  enough,  and  easily  conciliated.  One 
baggage  inspector  on  going  through  a trunk  found  at 
the  top  some  articles  which  caused  him  to  frown,  but 
coming  presently  upon  a small  package  of  candy,  he 
slyly  smuggled  the  sweet  into  his  pocket,  suspended 
inspection  and  turning  to  me  said  politely,  “ Esta  bien, 
senor,”  which  I discovered  to  mean,  “ It’s  all  right, 
sir.” 

The  strange  old  city  of  Chihuahua,  now  conspicuous 
in  revolutionary  history,  is  nearly  two  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  south  of  the  border.  It  is  the  capital  of 
the  state  of  the  same  name,  and  in  this  strategic  me- 
tropolis of  the  north  our  pioneer  missionaries  had 
driven  their  stakes  two  years  before.  The  week 
passed  in  their  company  was  occupied  in  acquiring 
important  information  as  to  the  field  and  its  problems, 
and  discussing  plans  for  our  own  work. 

The  extent  of  territory  entered  by  these  missionaries 
impressed  us.  They  were  the  only  evangelical  workers 


ARRIVAL  IN  THE  DREAMLAND 


21 


in  a region  larger  than  all  our  northern  states  east  of 
Chicago,  though  with  sparser  population.  Chihua- 
hua counted  barely  twenty  thousand  people,  not  an 
astonishing  growth  for  the  three  hundred  years  since 
its  foundation.  It  was  then  taking  on  new  life.  The 
railroad,  of  American  construction,  was  competing 
with  the  Chihuahua  burro.  The  stir  of  foreign  enter- 
prise had  begun  to  arouse  the  Mexican.  In  less  than 
twenty  years  this  capital  was  to  double  its  population, 
while  the  entire  state  was  to  share  its  awakening. 

The  week  in  Chihuahua  was  full  of  revelations. 
The  southern  climate  was  charming;  the  street  and 
market  scenes  were  extremely  fascinating;  but  where 
were  the  “heathen”?  If  we  had  ever  thought  that 
all  Mexicans  were  ignorant  and  half  savage,  that  they 
had  no  civilization  worth  speaking  of,  our  minds  were 
soon  disabused  of  the  error.  We  saw  conditions  in- 
dicating vast  room  for  improvement,  but,  on  the  other 
hand,  were  amazed  at  the  high  degree  of  culture,  as 
other  foreigners  have  been.  We  were  told  of  a gentle- 
man from  “ the  States  ” who  was  visiting  a missionary 
there.  One  evening  the  two  strolled  to  the  central 
plaza  of  the  city,  where  in  the  cool  hours  following 
sunset  the  people  gather  for  promenade.  The  visitor 
from  the  North  looked  with  wonder  upon  the  crowds 
marching  leisurely  along  the  walks  of  the  beautiful 
square.  Finally  he  said,  “ Why,  I did  not  suppose 
there  were  so  many  Americans  in  Chihuahua ! ” The 
missionary  turned  his  eyes  for  a moment  upon  the 
moving  assemblage  and  replied,  “ I do  not  see  any 
Americans  here.”  With  astonishment  the  tourist 


22  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


learned  that  all  those  fine-looking  people  were  Mexi- 
cans. Many  of  them  were  elegantly  dressed,  dignified 
in  bearing,  and  in  complexion  European  rather  than 
Indian.  Their  faces  showed  no  inferior  grade  of  in- 
telligence and  refinement.  Such  people  one  was  con- 
stantly meeting  on  the  streets  of  Chihuahua  in  those 
days — on  foot,  or  riding  in  their  expensive  carriages. 
A glance  through  the  open  doors  to  the  interior  of  their 
residences  revealed  costly  imported  furniture,  hand- 
somely decorated  walls  and  many  other  indications  of 
refinement.  Of  the  masses,  as  we  came  to  know  them 
intimately  with  the  passing  years,  another  story  can 
be  told — less  pleasing,  but  no  less  interesting. 

One  result  of  our  mission  conference  was  that  I 
should  at  once  proceed  some  two  hundred  miles  far- 
ther into  the  interior  and  make  arrangements  for  open- 
ing a new  station,  leaving  my  wife  for  a brief  period 
in  Chihuahua. 


II 

FROM  CHIHUAHUA  TO  PARRAL 


HAVING  boarded  the  south-bound  Mexican 
Central  train  at  Chihuahua  early  one  Monday 
morning,  I arrived  in  Jimenez  soon  after 
noon.  At  this  dreary  place  of  three  or  four  thousand 
inhabitants  passengers  for  Parral — fifty  miles  south- 
west— left  the  train  and  took  the  stage.  The  railway 
from  El  Paso  southward  through  the  great  state  of 
Chihuahua,  ran  along  a broad,  almost  level,  and  tree- 
less plateau,  between  broken  mountain  ranges  which 
were  always  in  sight.  Without  them  the  landscape 
would  have  been  uninteresting,  for  cultivated  fields  and 
farmhouses  were  seldom  seen.  Outside  the  small  rail- 
way stations  almost  no  sign  of  civilization  appeared, 
except  herds  of  cattle  and  horses,  and  the  rarer  flocks 
of  sheep,  goats  and  burros  on  the  broad  ranges.  At 
the  present  time  few  animals  of  any  kind  are  seen;  the 
revolutions  have  taken  them. 

As  we  went  farther  south,  the  country  grew  more 
attractive.  Fine  cottonwoods  lined  the  river  banks; 
mesquite  bushes,  often  of  gigantic  size,  relieved  the 
barrenness  and  indicated  fertility  of  soil.  Only  water 
was  lacking.  The  state  of  Chihuahua  has  vast  mineral 
richness,  and  possibilities,  through  irrigation,  of  an 
amazing  agricultural  and  grazing  output. 

23 


24  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


So  long  as  one  is  on  an  American-conducted  train, 
with  a few  American  fellow  passengers,  what  matters 
it  if  he  does  not  sabe  a dozen  Spanish  words?  But 
leaving  the  train  and  attempting  to  do  business  in  a 
foreign  land  with  only  a vest-pocket  dictionary,  is 
another  matter.  I was  not  quite  alone,  for  smiling 
Francisco  accompanied  me,  and  while  his  words  were 
strange,  his  gestures  were  often  intelligible  and  his 
familiarity  with  the  region  was  helpful. 

Having  been  repeatedly  warned  before  leaving  home 
as  to  the  risks  of  travel  in  Mexico,  I could  not  fail  to 
notice  another  companion  of  the  journey.  I first  saw 
him  on  the  train,  and  decided  he  was  not  a Mexican, 
but  an  odd-looking  foreigner,  roughly  dressed  and  with 
hair  reaching  to  the  shoulders.  He  carried  a rifle,  a 
showy  pistol,  a knife  and  two  cartridge  belts.  I had 
never  before  seen  a man  so  evidently  a desperado,  and 
I wondered  that  he  should  be  travelling  alone,  and 
was  glad  to  think  that  on  quitting  the  train  I should 
probably  see  no  more  of  him.  But  on  alighting  at  the 
station  in  Jimenez  I saw  that  the  fellow  was  also  get- 
ting off.  The  town  was  a mile  from  the  station. 
Francisco  and  I boarded  one  of  the  numerous  hacks 
and  were  carried  in  a whirl  of  dust  to  the  great  adobe 
inn  from  which  the  Parral  stage  was  to  make  its  de- 
parture the  next  morning.  As  there  were  plenty  of 
other  inns  to  which  a man  might  go,  it  was  with  dis- 
pleasure that,  arriving  at  our  stopping-place,  I met  the 
ugly  stranger,  also  a guest  there.  Francisco  assisted 
me  in  securing  a room  and  at  early  evening,  after  a 
stroll  together,  he  left  me  to  pass  the  night  with  ac- 


FROM  CHIHUAHUA  TO  PARRAL 


25 


quaintances  in  the  city.  On  going  to  my  room,  which 
was  a double  one,  I was  confounded  to  see  that  my 
“ outlaw  ” had  also  been  quartered  there ! His  arms 
and  belts  were  already  disposed  about  his  bedstead  and 
he  was  preparing  to  retire.  On  addressing  him,  as 
civility  required,  I was  not  displeased  to  see  that  he 
spoke  English  and,  moreover,  that  he  was  inclined  to 
be  friendly,  saying  that  he  was  to  take  the  stage  leav- 
ing at  three  o’clock  in  the  morning  for  Parral,  and 
wondering  if  I were  not  also  westward  bound.  By 
the  time  we  had  said  “ good-night  ” I was  convinced 
that  I had  misjudged  my  companion.  Our  beds  were 
in  opposite  corners.  The  room  had  a brick  floor,  no 
windows,  one  door,  which  opened  into  the  outer  court, 
and  little  furniture.  We  bolted  the  door  inside,  but  a 
diminutive  door,  made  in  the  large  one  for  light  and 
ventilation,  we  left  ajar.  I slept  lightly  and  it  was 
not  yet  midnight  when,  opening  my  eyes,  I saw  that 
some  one  was  attempting  to  enter  the  door.  By  thrust- 
ing his  arm  through  the  opening  he  had  already  drawn 
the  bolt.  The  door  was  ajar,  and  I clearly  saw  the 
full  figure  of  a man.  I called  sharply,  “ What  do  you 
want?”  Without  replying  the  intruder  instantly 
withdrew  and  closed  the  door.  All  was  now  silence 
and — in  the  room — complete  darkness,  for  the  wicket 
was  also  closed.  Minute  after  minute  passed,  time 
enough  for  one  to  have  fallen  asleep  again.  So, 
doubtless,  concluded  the  fellow  outside,  for  as  my 
eyes  were  still  toward  the  door,  I saw  it  open.  Si- 
lently, but  like  a flash,  a man  sprang  in,  closed  the 
door  and  bolted  it  behind  him.  Again  utter  darkness 


26  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


and  silence.  Thoroughly  frightened,  as  I frankly  ad- 
mit, I now  launched  a no  uncertain  command  in  the 
direction  of  the  door — “ Get  out  of  here!  ” With  my 
next  breath  I called  to  my  sleeping  companion, 
“ Friend,  there’s  a robber  in  the  room!”  There  was 
no  reply  from  any  quarter.  The  situation  was  in- 
tolerable. Again  I shouted,  now  to  one,  now  to 
another  of  these  men,  but  received  not  a word  in  re- 
sponse. Why  did  not  my  friend  hear?  The  other  I 
believed  intent  on  committing  a foul  deed  and,  with 
voice  tense  with  warning,  I shouted  once  more,  “ Get 
out  of  here  or  I’ll  shoot!  ” What  I should  shoot,  ex- 
cept my  shoes,  I did  not  know,  for  I was  unarmed; 
but  the  conditions  required  something  definite.  In  any 
case  my  warning  brought  the  crisis.  A timid  and 
unmistakenly  frightened  voice  came  from  the  door, 
“ Don’t  shoot!  Let  me  get  to  my  bed.”  It  was  my 
fellow  passenger  who,  unknown  to  me,  had  gone  out, 
carefully  closing  the  door  until  his  return.  Little  had 
he  foreseen  the  difficulty  of  re-entrance.  Only  his 
natural  timidity  and  great  fear,  he  explained,  ac- 
counted for  his  strange  silence.  “ You  gave  me  the 
fright  of  my  life,  sir,”  he  said  to  me  afterward  as 
we  discussed  the  incident.  “ I thought  my  last  hour 
had  come ! ” Our  stage  trip  the  next  day  was  thor- 
oughly enjoyed  by  us  both,  and  on  arrival  at  Parral 
he  urged  me  to  accompany  him  on  his  hunting  trip 
farther  west. 


Ill 


STAGE-RIDE  AND  STARTING  IN 

FOR  some  days  after  reaching  Parral,  I was 
occupied  getting  my  bearings  in  the  picturesque 
city,  selecting  a house,  receiving  our  household 
goods  and  making  ready  to  receive  my  wife.  Then 
I returned  to  the  railway  station  to  meet  her.  How 
we  enjoyed  the  fifty-mile  ride  together  in  that  old 
strap-swung  coach!  After  sunrise  we  obtained  seats 
on  top.  The  morning  was  glorious,  the  country  fresh, 
for  the  rainy  season  was  hardly  past,  and  the  road  was 
fine.  The  scenery  was  not  interesting,  except  for  the 
distant  mountains  to  the  west  and  the  queer,  isolated 
peaks  both  on  our  right  and  left.  It  was  no  end  of 
fun  to  watch  the  stage  mules  which,  when  not  in  full 
gallop,  were  swiftly  trotting.  There  were  six  of  them, 
small,  but  well  fed  and  tough,  as  they  must  be  to  en- 
dure the  strain  to  which  they  were  put.  There  were 
two  drivers:  one  carried  the  lines  and  a whip  with 
amazing  length  of  lash;  its  crack  was  like  a pistol 
shot.  The  assistant  driver  held  a short  but  heavy- 
lashed  whip  for  spurring  the  near  mules,  and  for 
emergencies;  in  ascending  a hill,  for  instance,  the 
youth  jumped  to  the  ground  and  ran  beside  the  team, 
shouting  and  lashing  vigorously.  It  was  the  duty  of 
the  assistant,  also,  to  keep  on  deposit  in  the  boot  a 

27 


28  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


quantity  of  small  stones  which  he  now  and  then  threw 
at  some  lagging  member  of  the  team. 

It  was  the  custom  to  make  fifty  miles  in  six  or  seven 
hours,  not  including  stops.  There  were  two  posts  by 
the  way,  where  the  panting  animals  yielded  their  places 
to  fresh  ones.  El  Valle  de  Allende  was  the  second, 
a city  of  three  thousand,  and  the  most  attractive  we 
had  yet  seen  in  Mexico.  Magnificent  shade  trees,  or- 
chards, gardens,  fruits  and  flowers  were  seen  on  every 
side.  Here  the  passengers  breakfasted.  With  foam- 
ing chocolate,  fresh  rolls,  eggs  and  native  cheese,  who 
would  not  have  been  refreshed  for  the  twenty  miles 
more  of  rocking  coach?  Our  new  mules  knew  what 
was  expected  of  them.  Before  the  wheel-brake  was 
loosened  they  were  tugging  at  the  straps,  and  with 
the  cracking  of  whips  and  shouts  of  " andale-andale 
we  were  off  like  a shot.  Our  thundering  stage  was 
followed  by  dozens  of  barking  dogs  and  the  admiring 
gaze  of  every  human  being  along  that  street,  all  eager 
to  take  in  the  one  thrilling  event  of  the  morning. 
Dashing  across  the  shallow  river  and  flying  up  the  far- 
ther hill,  we  were  again  on  the  broad  plateau.  The 
day  was  now  fairly  awake.  Freighters  whose  wagons 
and  camp-fires  we  had  seen  by  the  roadside  were  now 
in  motion,  and  we  passed  them  frequently;  now  it  was 
a train  of  immensely  heavy  wagons  each  drawn  by 
fourteen  mules  and  carrying  merchandise  or  grain: 
now  a pack  of  ten  to  twenty  donkeys,  backs  laden 
with  apples,  quinces  and  walnuts  for  the  Parral  mar- 
ket. Then  came  saddle  or  foot  travelers,  men,  women 
and  children,  venders  of  toys,  pottery  or  singing  birds. 


STAGE-RIDE  AND  STARTING  IN  29 

One  or  two  families  were  moving,  carrying  their  be- 
longings in  quaint,  two-wheeled  carts. 

Naturally,  we  conversed  by  the  way  of  our  new 
home  and  people.  We  were  aware  of  the  hostility  of 
the  Roman  Church,  and  expected  to  encounter  diffi- 
culties in  our  enterprise,  but  we  were  eager  and  hope- 
ful. Suddenly  the  speed  of  our  animals  slackened, 
for  we  had  reached  the  beginning  of  the  “ Winding 
Stair,”  leading  from  the  mesa  to  the  Parral  River. 
With  brakes  grinding  heavily  against  the  wheels,  we 
cautiously  commenced  the  steep  descent,  and  presently 
a turn  brought  the  city  into  view.  It  was  still  far 
below  us  and  two  miles  distant,  but  its  heavy  church 
towers  and  crooked  streets  were  clearly  distinguished. 

Parral — which  has  since  figured  in  the  Pershing  ex- 
pedition— then  claimed  twelve  thousand  population. 
Like  many  another  mining  town  in  a narrow  valley, 
it  stretched  out  to  great  length.  In  places  there  was 
room  for  but  one  street.  In  others  the  canon  walls 
fell  back,  yielding  abundance  of  building  space.  But 
in  Mexico  no  one  wishes  to  live  far  from  the  water. 
The  town  seemed  completely  inclosed  by  towering 
hills,  rocky  and  treeless;  one  from  the  Middle  West 
would  call  them  mountains,  and  so  they  seemed  to  us. 
The  view  of  the  queer  old  city  was  fascinating.  It 
was  to  be  our  home.  Had  we  friends,  or  even  ac- 
quaintances there?  Not  one.  What  were  to  be  our 
experiences?  The  answer  came,  “As  the  mountains 
are  around  about  Jerusalem,  so  the  Lord  is  round 
about  his  people,”  and  that  was  enough. 

We  soon  quitted  the  desolate  hotel  lodgings  and 


30  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


commenced  home-keeping  for  ourselves.  I had  rented 
a one-story  adobe  dwelling,  centrally  located  on  the 
principal  street.  At  our  back  rose  the  “ Mountain  of 
the  Cross  ” — in  fact,  the  house  was  built  upon  its 
slope,  the  five  rooms  being  on  ascending  levels  and 
connected  by  stone  steps.  The  yard  enclosure  in  the 
rear,  where  we  might  keep  a burro,  was  almost  over- 
head. What  a view  from  there!  One  could  look 
down  upon  our  own  housetop  and  upon  the  neighbours’ 
roofs.  More  than  one-half  the  city  lay  spread  out  on 
both  sides  of  the  river,  forming  a charming  picture. 
To  the  southwest,  beyond  the  hills  encircling  Parral, 
was  a blue,  pine-clad  range  of  the  Sierra  Madre. 
Across  the  street,  directly  in  front  of  us,  was  a huge 
stone  building  (still  standing),  once  a church,  or 
monastery,  said  to  have  been  erected  by  the  Jesuits 
some  three  hundred  years  ago.  Beneath  the  building, 
hewn  in  solid  rock,  are  dark,  mysterious  cells  of  which 
are  told  ugly  stories  of  Inquisition  days. 

What  did  we  do  during  those  first  months?  How 
did  we  live?  Happily,  we  found  friendly  neighbours. 
The  day  after  our  arrival  smiling  Francisco  brought 
to  us  some  Mexicans — a man,  two  women  and  some 
children — whom  he  delightedly  presented  as  “ her- 
manos  ” — Christian  brothers.  Such  a hearty  welcome 
as  they  gave,  not  only  shaking  our  hands,  but  em- 
bracing us  warmly  and  patting  us  upon  the  shoulder 
in  true  Mexican  fashion.  Intelligent  words  are  not 
the  only  means  of  communication.  Without  them 
these  simple-hearted  people  made  clear  to  us  their  in- 
terest and  sympathy.  Of  their  sincerity  there  was  no 


STAGE-RIDE  AND  STARTING  IN  31 


doubt.  They  had  become  attracted  to  the  Gospel 
through  a mission  farther  south,  and  had  but  recently 
arrived  in  Parral.  For  some  time  not  a day  passed 
without  a call  from  them,  inquiring  solicitously  for 
our  health  and  seemingly  anxious  to  assist  us.  They 
settled  for  us  the  matter  of  house  help.  The  younger 
woman,  Jesusita — feminine  for  Jesus — in  need  of  a 
home  and  glad  to  earn,  became  a'  most  valued  member 
of  our  household.  Such  a sunny-faced,  willing  and 
faithful  servant  as  that  jewel  of  a Jesusita  proved,  is 
rarely  found. 

There  were  about  twenty-five  American  men  in  and 
around  Parral,  nearly  all  engaged  in  mining.  Many 
called  on  us  and  all  were  friendly  as  we  met  them  on 
the  streets. 

It  is  needless  to  say  that  our  first  business  was  learn- 
ing the  language.  Spanish  is  very  easy  to  acquire, 
especially  for  those  who  are  familiar  with  Latin.  As 
the  vowels  have*  but  one  sound  only  a few  days’  prac- 
tice is  needed  to  give  one  a fair  reading  pronuncia- 
tion. I began  taking  lessons  of  an  ex-priest  who  lived 
near  us.  The  man  was  unfrocked,  not  because  he 
loved  a pretty  senorita,  or  for  having  a family  of 
children,  but  for  boldly  marrying  his  lady  love  and 
acknowledging  his  wife.  While  no  longer  a priest,  he 
claimed  to  be  a good  Catholic.  He  was  a fine  teacher 
and  most  friendly  to  his  Protestant  pupils.  But  happy 
Jesusita  gave  us  more  practical  instruction  than  any 
one.  She  was  constantly  explaining  things  and  never 
laughed  at  our  mistakes,  not  even  when  I asked  her 
to  sew  a boot  to  the  back  of  my  neck,  as  I did  one  day. 


32  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


Almost  from  the  first  I managed  to  do  our  own 
marketing.  Of  all  places  to  visit  in  a Mexican  city 
the  municipal  market  is  the  most  interesting.  Here 
every  conceivable  thing  is  encountered : meats,  vege- 
tables, fruits,  bread,  confectionery,  groceries,  hats, 
shoes,  baskets,  pottery,  bird-cages,  toys  and  notions  of 
all  sorts;  in  coffee  shops  every  kind  of  Mexican  food 
may  be  had,  especially  dishes  for  the  poorer  class,  as 
baked  pumpkin,  roasted  sheep’s  heads,  boiled  corn, 
beans,  and  more  beans  with  chili  sauce,  coffee,  milk 
and  fancy-colored  drinks.  Some  of  the  displays  are 
on  shelves  and  tables,  but  more  are  on  the  flag-stone 
pavement  where  the  vender  has  arranged  his,  or  her, 
articles  in  piles  of  varying  values.  Do  you  wish  this 
bunch  of  radishes?  Throw  down  a copper  and  help 
yourself.  That  pile  of  peanuts  is  a centavo. 

Being  at  that  time  without  railway  connections, 
tropical  fruits  in  Parral  were  disappointingly  scarce. 
We  were  more  than  a mile  above  the  sea.  The  few 
shrivelled  oranges  were  grown  more  than  five  hundred 
miles  distant.  Even  grapes  and  figs  were  high. 


A Mexican  Market 


IVi 


WHAT  THEY  THOUGHT  OF  THE 
PROTESTANTS 

1HAD  not  anticipated  being  able  to  hold  the  first 
service  in  Spanish  within  three  months  after  ar- 
riving, as  was  the  case.  My  first  sermons  had 
one  merit,  that  of  brevity.  They  were  fully  written 
out,  then  corrected  by  my  teacher,  after  which  no 
small  pains  were  taken  in  preparation  for  delivery. 
Continuing  the  same  care  the  five-minute  sermons 
gradually  grew  to  ten  in  length  (I  wonder  if  the 
amount  of  good  was  thereby  doubled).  In  the  matter 
of  prayers,  help  was  obtained  from  a Spanish  copy  of 
the  Episcopal  Book  of  Common  Prayer.  Our  Span- 
ish hymnal  was  published  by  the  Methodist  Mission 
in  Mexico  City;  a good  little  book,  the  hymns  being 
mostly  translations  from  the  English.  The  Mexicans 
are  extremely  fond  of  music,  and  new  converts, 
whether  or  not  acquainted  with  the  tunes,  are  certain 
to  join  vigorously  in  the  singing.  A single  hour  of 
service  rarely  satisfies  them,  it  often  occurring  that 
after  the  benediction  has  been  spoken  the  congregation 
resume  their  seats  and  commence  calling  for  more 
hymns! 

Meetings  were  held  in  our  own  house,  and  at  first 
were  private.  Later,  however,  our  front  room  was 

33 


34  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


consecrated  to  chapel  uses  and  the  gathering  of  five  or 
six  soon  increased  to  a dozen  and  more.  The  first 
public  service  attracted  a larger  crowd  than  was  an- 
ticipated. At  the  sound  of  the  organ  the  attention  of 
street  passers  was  arrested.  Curious  persons  began 
to  stop  before  the  open  doors.  As  the  service  pro- 
gressed the  gathering  thickened.  The  word  passed 
about  that  it  was  a culto  protestante!  These  poor 
people  had  been  taught  to  believe  that  the  most  dam- 
nable of  known  evils  is  Protestantism,  a thing  to  be 
shunned,  hated  and  exterminated.  The  crowd  with- 
drew from  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  doors  and 
filled  the  center  of  the  street,  which  at  this  point  is  of 
unusual  width.  The  first  low  mutterings  soon  changed 
to  insolent  hoots  of  ridicule  mingled  with  curses.  Not 
half  the  service  hour  had  passed  before  a throng  of 
some  two  hundred  people  had  collected,  assuming  with 
every  moment  a more  threatening  attitude.  We  pru- 
dently closed  our  doors,  and  not  a moment  too  soon, 
for  as  the  multitude  slowly  dispersed  not  a few  stones 
were  hurled  our  way.  The  authorities  were  duly 
notified  of  this  disturbance  and  civilly  assured  us  of 
ample  police  protection  in  future,  which  was  accorded. 

With  the  old-time,  gross  misconception  of  Protest- 
antism which  obtained  in  Mexico,  it  was  impossible 
that  its  active  representatives  should  not  be  objects  of 
hostile  feeling.  The  spirit  of  intolerance  was,  and  is, 
more  intense  farther  in  the  interior  of  the  republic. 
Since  the  opening  of  evangelical  missions,  more  than 
forty  years  ago,  one  American  missionary  and  not 
less  than  fourscore  native  Christians  have  suffered 


WHAT  THEY  THOUGHT 


35 


martyrdom  for  their  faith.  The  laws  may  provide  for 
entire  liberty  in  matters  of  religious  belief  and  wor- 
ship, but  where  the  local  authorities  share  the  sharp 
hostility  toward  Protestants,  as  was  the  case  in  many 
sections,  little  security  could  be  expected.  As  a rule 
government  officials  in  the  north  of  Mexico,  if  not 
openly  friendly  toward  evangelical  religion,  were  at 
least  disposed  to  give  its  adherents  the  full  protection 
of  the  laws. 

I early  made  the  acquaintance  of  the  city  mayor  by 
calling  upon  him  at  his  office.  This  genial  man  re- 
ceived me  with  all  courtesy  and  expressed  feelings  of 
friendliness  toward  our  work. 

When  we  took  possession  of  our  house  it  had  just 
been  put  in  good  repair  within  and  without.  The 
lime-finished  front  was  a stainless  white,  as  attrac- 
tive, if  not  as  grand,  as  any  dwelling  along  the  street. 
Coming  out  one  morning  soon  after  our  first  public 
meeting,  I noticed  a disfigurement  of  the  spotless 
front.  Some  one  had  written  in  sprawling  charcoal 
letters  extending  entirely  across  the  building,  “ Aqui 
viven  los  demonios!” — Here  live  the  demons!  Not 
a few  people  seemed  to  believe  it  and  avoided  the 
house.  Rather  than  pass  by  it,  many  pedestrians  on 
approaching  would  suddenly  leave  the  sidewalk,  cross 
the  street  and  pass  by  on  the  other  side. 

Our  Mexican  friends  informed  us  from  time  to 
time  that  in  the  principal  parish  church  of  the  city 
warnings  were  given  respecting  the  Protestants, 
strictly  commanding  that  no  dealings  should  be  had 
with  them.  Selling  to  them,  buying  of  them,  listening 


36  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


or  speaking  to  them,  or  assisting  them  in  any  way — 
all  this  was  forbidden  on  pain  of  excommunication. 
Children  were  taught  that  the  simple  act  of  looking 
upon  a Protestant  would  cause  evil  to  fall  upon  them. 
This  explains  what  frequently  occurred  as  the  mis- 
sionary passed  along  certain  streets — children  would  at 
once  cover  their  eyes  and  remain  blindfolded  until  the 
“ Evil  One  ” was  supposed  to  have  gone  by! 

Into  a Protestant  American  family  came  one  day 
an  infant  girl.  She  was  the  delight  of  the  home.  Her 
clear  blue  eyes  and  fair  skin  attracted  no  little  atten- 
tion wherever  she  was  seen.  One  day  her  nurse  in 
taking  her  for  an  outing  came  upon  a group  of 
scfioritas,  who  greatly  admired  the  little  one.  They 
took  her  in  their  arms,  caressing  her  and  calling  her, 
“ Dulce  angelita!” — sweet  little  angel!  On  giving 
her  back  they  said,  “ Oh,  what  a pity  it  is  that  they 
are  protestantcs,”  adding  in  a low  voice,  “ How  could 
it  be  wrong  to  steal  a child  like  this  and  rescue  it  from 
the  perdition  of  its  people!  ” 

But  from  the  beginning  we  found  those  who  were 
glad  of  the  message  we  brought.  Within  two  months 
after  arrival  I began  to  place  Bibles  in  families  where 
they  were  read  with  the  greatest  interest.  One  of  the 
first  to  buy  was  a shopkeeper  in  the  outskirts  of  the 
town,  who  was  immensely  pleased  to  see  the  book  and 
to  learn  that  he  might  have  it  for  the  surprisingly  low 
price  of  forty  cents  of  their  money.  This  man  be- 
came a deacon  in  our  church,  and  to-day  in  his  old 
age  still  loves  his  Bible. 

Aside  from  my  own  stock  of  American  Society 


WHAT  THEY  THOUGHT 


37 


books,  I found  on  investigation  that  there  was  but  one 
copy  of  the  Bible  on  sale  in  the  city  of  Parral.  It 
was  in  Latin  and  Spanish,  with  notes,  in  five  volumes, 
and  priced  at  $25.00.  A travelling  agent  had  sold  a 
box  of  Bibles  in  Parral  shortly  before  our  coming. 
Prices  being  low,  the  books  were  quickly  disposed  of. 
Word  of  the  sales  was  not  long  in  reaching  the  church 
authorities  and  a solemn  order  was  at  once  issued, 
demanding  that  every  copy  of  this  book  should  be 
brought  immediately  to  the  hands  of  the  cura.  With 
little  delay  the  most  of  them  were  turned  in,  and  then, 
to  impress  the  community  with  the  dangerous  char- 
acter of  these  Bibles,  they  were  publicly  burned  in 
the  street  before  the  cura’s  door.  Yet,  in  spite  of  the 
fact  that  the  Bible  was  a forbidden  book,  and  that  a 
threat  of  excommunication  (which  to  them  meant  loss 
of  soul)  hung  over  those  who  dared  to  own  or  to  read 
it,  scores  of  copies  were  sometimes  sold  from  my  stock 
during  a single  month;  besides  large  numbers  of  Tes- 
taments and  portions  thereof,  and  beautifully  illus- 
trated books  published  in  Spanish  by  the  American 
Tract  Society.  Often  ranchers,  or  miners,  living  miles 
away,  having  heard  of  this  new  literature,  would  come 
in  to  see  it  for  themselves  and  talk  with  the  mission- 
ary. On  departing  they  would  carry,  in  carefully 
wrapped  parcels,  various  volumes  of  condemned 
books,  among  which  was  sure  to  be  a copy  of  the  Holy 
Scriptures.  Such  experiences  as  these  were  worth 
while,  outbalancing  a hundred  times  all  trials  encoun- 
tered. 


NOVEL  STREET  SCENES 


A LL  northern  Mexico  is  semi-arid.  The  rainy 
season  ordinarily  extends  from  the  latter  part  of 
June  to  the  first  of  September.  Fifteen  inches  is 
more  than  the  average  annual  rainfall  on  the  central 
plateau,  and  there  are  years  when  the  clouds  yield  less 
than  four  inches.  In  these  years  thousands  of  cattle 
die  upon  the  ranges,  and  the  non-irrigated  crops  of 
corn  and  beans  are  exceedingly  light,  if  not  failures. 

The  hottest  month  is  just  before  the  rains — May  or 
June.  While  the  sun  is  fiercer  than  in  Chicago,  the  air 
is  never  stifling.  The  shade  is  always  comfortable 
and  the  nights  are  cool.  Sunstrokes  are  unknown. 
Thunderstorms  are  often  terrific.  Occasionally  a dust 
blizzard  of  a day’s  duration  sweeps  the  country.  Yet, 
taking  one  month  with  another,  the  coast,  the  table- 
lands, and  the  mountains,  Mexico’s  climate  is  extraor- 
dinarily fine. 

In  attempting  to  describe  some  novelties  of  a city 
like  Parral,  then  and  at  the  present  time,  let  us  fancy 
ourselves  at  a magnificent  lookout  on  the  mountain 
back  of  the  missionary’s  house.  The  city  lies  spread 
out  below  us.  Those  solid  buildings  are  adobe,  mostly 
one-story,  as  you  see.  Over  there  on  the  outskirts  the 
houses  show  their  original  clay  colour;  but  notice  the 

38 


NOVEL  STREET  SCENES 


39 


attractive  finish  of  the  buildings  along  the  principal 
streets.  The  door  and  window  casings  are  of  neatly 
cut  stone,  quarried  near  by.  The  ordinary  windows 
are  simply  openings  in  the  walls  which  may  be  closed 
and  barred  from  within  by  heavy  wooden  doors;  in 
addition  to  these,  the  better  class  of  houses  now  have 
modern  glass  windows.  The  flat  roofs  are  of  well- 
prepared  mud  spread  to  a depth  of  four  or  five  inches 
over  the  timber  foundation,  which  is  laid  with  slight 
incline  across  the  adobe  walls.  The  better  roofs  have 
a covering  of  brick  or  cement.  If  they  do  not  always 
afford  adequate  protection  from  the  rains,  they  are 
a complete  barrier  against  a burning  sun.  The  Mexi- 
can buildings,  however  lacking  in  variety  and  beauty, 
are  far  better  adapted  for  that  climate  than  the  light 
wooden  structures  so  common  in  the  States. 

Down  here  is  a man  walking  upon  his  housetop. 
As  house  joins  io  house,  nothing  would  prevent  this 
man  from  passing  to  his  neighbour’s  roof  and  so  on  to 
the  end  of  the  row.  “ Let  him  that  is  on  the  housetop 
not  come  down  to  take  anything  out  of  his  house.” 
In  case  of  sudden  danger  of  Indian  attack  in  the  city, 
this  man  we  see  could  best  make  his  escape  to  the  hills 
by  not  coming  down  from  the  roof. 

On  the  farther  side  of  the  street  immediately  before 
us  is  a stone  fountain.  See  the  women  with  their 
earthen  water  jars.  They  come,  sit  a few  minutes 
upon  the  curb,  leisurely  gossip  one  with  another  while 
filling  their  jars,  then,  dexterously  adjusting  them  on 
their  heads,  they  give  place  to  others  coming  on  like 
errand.  Here,  at  the  right,  is  another  oriental  scene — 


40  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


a baker  shop  with  its  immense  adobe  oven.  For  some 
time  before  the  bread  is  ready  to  go  in  a fierce  fire  is 
kept  burning  in  the  oven.  When  sufficiently  heated, 
the  embers  are  swept  into  the  far  corners  and  the 
baking  is  thrust  in.  Various  sorts  of  fuel  are  used, 
even  brush,  and,  for  kindling,  dry  grass.  We  recall 
“ the  grass,  which  is  to-day  in  the  field,  and  to-morrow 
is  cast  into  the  oven.” 

For  a near  view  of  the  street  scenes  our  own  house- 
top gives  a more  favourable  lookout.  We  descend 
and  climb  up  to  the  flat  roof.  This  front  wall  of  the 
house,  rising  some  thirty  inches  above  the  level  of  the 
roof,  forms  a kind  of  breastwork;  and  now,  inconspic- 
uous ourselves,  we  may  watch  at  leisure  the  move- 
ments below.  Were  I needing  firewood,  I should  hail 
that  countryman  approaching  with  his  pack  of  burros 
before  him.  There  are  a baker’s  dozen  of  the  long- 
eared animals,  each  with  a bulky  and  well-balanced 
load  of  wood  bound  skilfully  upon  his  back.  While 
we  were  still  asleep  they  were  already  on  the  road  and 
are  tired,  if  they  but  knew  it.  See  how  the  panting 
beasts  jostle  one  another  as  they  attempt  to  avoid  this 
enormous  wagon  which  wishes  to  take  all  the  road. 
But  their  driver  is  experienced,  and  they  are  obedient. 
This  man  will  ask  fifty  cents  a load  for  his  wood;  and 
it  is  well  worth  it,  but  competition  is  brisk,  and  he  may 
take  three  reals  (3 7F2  cents)  or  even  two,  and  with  the 
proceeds  carry  a scant  burro-load  of  provisions  to  his 
family  on  the  lone  ranch. 

Look!  Coming  up  the  street  to  meet  the  wood- 
carriers  is  what  appears  to  be  a section  of  some  corn- 


NOVEL  STREET  SCENES 


41 


field  which  has  taken  to  itself  legs  and  is  marching 
into  town.  At  first  glance  one  sees  nothing  but  huge 
corn-shocks — fifteen  or  twenty  of  them — and  seem- 
ingly alive ! As  they  approach  they  are  nodding  right 
and  left  to  every  passer-by.  Now  you  see  some  legs 
treading  the  sound  stone  pavement,  and  an  occasional 
donkey  nose  peering  through  the  stalks.  Winter  fodder 
will  never  be  cheaper.  Some  one  will  beat  down  the 
moderate  price  asked  and  take  the  lot.  To-morrow  will 
bring  many  like  offers,  and  on  each  of  these  November 
mornings  dozens  of  cornstalk  droves  will  present 
themselves  upon  the  streets. 

Not  far  behind  this  rustling  forage  comes  a caravan 
on  wheels — three,  four,  five  wagons,  tremendously 
heavy,  drawn  each  by  fourteen  mules.  They  come 
from  the  railway  station  laden  with  mining  machinery 
and  general  merchandise.  They  go  in  caravans  for 
mutual  protection  and  assistance  by  the  way.  Those 
two  machinery  carros  will  soon  mount  the  heavy  grade 
toward  the  mill  above  town.  At  its  foot  they  will 
halt  and  “ double  teams.”  Then,  amidst  the  lively 
hallooing  of  various  drivers  and  incessant  shriek- 
ing of  whips,  twenty-eight  plucky  kickers  will 
strain  every  muscle  to  place  the  freight  at  its 
destination. 

See  the  two-wheeled  carts  jogging  everywhere  over 
the  stones!  Some  of  them  sport  one  mustang,  others 
two.  Here  is  a combination  of  horse  and  donkey,  but 
the  stocky  mule  rivals  the  ubiquitous  burro  in  this  kind 
of  labour.  This  passing  cart  has  a bulky  load;  nor  is 
it  light,  judging  from  the  way  the  mules  are  breath- 


42  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


ing.  The  boxes  are  piled  high  upon  each  other.  No 
small  skill  is  required  to  adjust  such  loads  that  they 
may  preserve  their  proper  balance.  I once  witnessed 
a curious  accident  caused  by  the  sudden  shifting  of 
cargo  on  one  of  these  two-wheeled  affairs.  As  the 
lofty  load  lurched  backwards,  the  astonished  mules 
were  lifted  from  the  ground  and  in  spite  of  their 
excited  struggles  were  soon  swinging  in  mid-air  above 
the  heavy  cart.  It  was  a lively  scene,  but,  curiously 
enough,  the  incident  terminated  without  serious  injury 
to  any  of  the  parties  concerned. 

Nothing  interests  a stranger  more  than  the  pictur- 
esque street  venders.  Over  here  is  a baker’s  man  with 
an  enormous  basket  easily  balanced  on  his  head.  It 
contains  bread,  hot  from  the  oven,  rolls  in  variety, 
coarse  water  cakes,  and  French-like  loaves  a little  finer. 
He  calls,  lustily,  “ Pan  caliente!  Y a se  acaba!  ” Fresh 
bread ! It  will  soon  be  gone ! At  the  corner  over  there 
you  see  a woman  seated  beside  her  low  table  of  cakes 
and  candies.  When  not  occupied  with  customers,  she 
is  softly  whisking  the  flies  from  the  sweets,  while 
from  the  corner  of  her  eye  she  watches  the  pilferingly 
inclined  hands  of  passing  urchins. 

This  boy  carries  upon  his  head  a tempting  basket  of 
baked  sweet  potatoes,  whose  merits  he  loudly  adver- 
tises. Others  have  boiled  corn-in-the-ear  or  fruits. 
Were  it  early  morning  we  should  see  the  milk-sellers — 
burro,  boy,  and  jars  of  milk,  all  in  one  figure.  In 
certain  parts  the  milkman  brings  the  cow,  or  goats,  to 
the  customer’s  door,  and  in  his  presence  fills  the  recep- 
tacle. He  (or  she)  passes  from  door  to  door  leaving 


NOVEL  STREET  SCENES  43 

in  waiting  hands  little  foaming  jars,  until  the  milk 
route  ends  or  the  fountain  has  been  drained. 

Another  scene:  it  is  a funeral  procession.  There 
is  no  hearse;  no  carriages.  The  deceased,  in  open 
coffin,  is  borne  on  the  shoulders  of  men.  Distinctly 
we  see  the  reposing  figure,  face  turned  skyward.  The 
mourners  are  few,  and  poor.  The  coffin  is  not  only 
rude ; it  is  a rented  one.  After  the  burial  it  will  be  re- 
turned to  the  shop  and  the  small  rent  paid.  Few  own 
their  own  burial  lots.  In  a few  years  their  bones  may 
be  thrown  out  to  give  room  for  other  occupants  of  the 
ground.  Mexican  funerals  among  the  better  classes 
are  marked  by  the  same  ceremony  and  elegance  known 
elsewhere,  but  such  as  here  described  are  the  more 


common. 


INTERESTING  INCIDENTS 


PUBLIC  denouncements  of  the  Protestants  from 
the  pulpits  served  to  awaken  curiosity  and  bring 
us  more  listeners.  Absurd  stories  were  told  of 
impious  and  ridiculous  ceremonies  practised  in  our 
services,  and  on  dark  evenings,  when  they  would  be 
unobserved,  a crowd  of  persons  were  accustomed  to 
gather  at  the  open  door  and  windows  of  our  chapel 
to  see  and  hear  what  they  could  of  these  strange 
things.  Many  new  converts  informed  me  that  in  this 
way  they  were  undeceived  and  their  interest  awakened. 
First,  it  would  be  curious,  timid  observation  from  the 
street — the  observer  being  ready  to  run  at  the  appear- 
ance of  an  acquaintance  or  of  a suspected  spy.  After 
a few  evenings  of  such  investigation,  surprised  at 
hearing  no  abuse  of  the  Virgin  Mary,  and  astonished 
at  the  reverent  explanation  of  truth,  one  would  slip 
through  the  door  under  cover  of  other  incomers,  and 
seek  the  most  inconspicuous  seat.  Thereafter  with 
growing  interest  would  come  increasing  boldness,  and 
finally — decision.  Two  years  after  opening  the  mis- 
sion we  had  a larger  average  attendance  at  services 
than  in  our  Dakota  church:  also  more  men  of  real 
religious  strength  in  the  Mexican  congregation.  The 
Sunday-school  had  an  enrolment  of  fifty,  and  the 

44 


INTERESTING  INCIDENTS  45 

people  were  contributing  with  remarkable  liberality 
toward  current  expenses  and  for  benevolences. 

But  according  to  the  degree  of  success  was  the 
strength  of  the  opposition.  The  presence  of  police- 
men was  necessary  to  insure  against  disturbance  at  all 
evening  meetings.  Our  people  were  subjected  to  stiff 
persecution.  They  not  only  received  severely  cold 
treatment  on  every  side,  but  experienced  difficulty  in 
obtaining  employment,  or  their  places  of  business  were 
shunned.  Acceptance  of  the  truth  divided  some  fam- 
ilies. The  wife  of  one  good  man  in  Parral  became 
simply  furious  because  her  once  respected  husband 
was  “ crazy  ” enough  to  become  a “ heretic.”  As  a 
rule  the  Mexican  women  are  notably  submissive  to 
their  lords,  but  this  one  believed  that  her  legal  head 
had  forfeited  all  rights  and  privileges  formerly  due 
him  in  the  home.  This  view,  if  not  inspired  by  her 
confessor,  was  supported  by  him.  But  the  brother 
usually  endured  in  discreet  silence  the  dreadful  tongue- 
lashings,  not  without  hope  that  some  day  dona  Inez 
would  accompany  him  in  the  new  Way;  nor  was  he 
disappointed. 

Another  convert  was  so  systematically  abused  by 
his  angry  wife  and  grown  daughters  that  he  prudently 
took  a few  weeks’  “ leave  of  absence  ” from  his  home. 
In  his  case,  also,  the  divided  family  was  reunited  by 
the  female  members  all  coming  repentantly  over  to 
the  Gospel  side. 

Before  conversion  a carpenter  member  of  our  flock 
was  so  given  to  intoxication  that  he  made  little  pre- 
tense of  supporting  his  numerous  family,  leaving  that 


46  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


burden  to  his  helpmeet.  Through  the  personal  influ- 
ence of  a brother  carpenter  he  bought  a Bible,  was 
converted,  and  quit  drinking.  At  the  American  mine 
on  the  hill  he  obtained  employment,  earning  more  in  a 
week  than  formerly  in  a month.  His  children  com- 
menced wearing  clothes,  the  wrinkles  of  his  wife’s  sad 
face  were  smoothed  out;  but  his  aged  mother  said, 
“ I would  rather  see  Francisco  under  the  ground  than 
to  see  him  a protestante!  ” The  poor  woman  was  en- 
tirely sincere.  According  to  her  lifelong  understand- 
ing of  truth  her  dearly  loved  son  had  deliberately 
chosen  the  road  to  endless  perdition:  a life  of  drunk- 
enness was  a dreadful  evil,  but  Protestantism  was  in- 
finitely worse!  Her  unwillingness  to  listen  to  expla- 
nations and  her  inability  to  comprehend  the  change 
that  had  come  over  her  son  deeply  grieved  him. 

Notwithstanding  the  “ light  afflictions,”  the  satisfac- 
tion which  those  people  found  in  their  new  faith  was 
precious  to  see.  One  old  Indian  woman,  having  heard 
one  afternoon  the  Gospel  explained  for  the  first  time, 
said  to  me  quietly,  “ I shall  sleep  very  contentedly  to- 
night.” One  of  our  most  active  believers  told  me, 
“ Long  before  hearing  of  a better  religion,  I had  lost 
interest  in  our  own.  For  ten  years  I was  seeking — I 
knew  not  what — but  in  this  Bible  I have  found  it.” 
An  aged  man  and  his  wife  had  at  the  same  time 
accepted  the  Good  News.  They  did  not  require  weeks 
of  explanation  and  much  persuasion,  but  with  the  sim- 
plicity of  children  received  the  Word  which  entirely 
changed  their  outlook  on  life.  One  morning  shortly 
after  their  conversion  there  came  a knock  at  my  study 


INTERESTING  INCIDENTS 


47 


door.  This  old  brother  was  there,  his  face  beaming. 
After  a hearty  salutation,  he  exclaimed,  “ Senor,  can 
you  tell  me  where  this  light  has  been  hidden  all  these 
years  that  it  has  only  just  reached  us?”  He  was 
happy  to  have  seen  it  before  passing  on,  but  wished 
that  it  might  have  come  to  them  sooner. 

Our  first  trip  beyond  the  limits  of  the  city  was  to 
the  village  of  Santa  Barbara.  Friends  were  visiting 
us,  and  a combined  outing  and  missionary  tour  was 
planned  to  this  large  mining  camp  nestling  at  the  foot 
of  the  blue  Sierra,  fifteen  miles  distant.  Into  our 
carriage,  besides  the  lunch,  went  a “ Baby  ” organ  and 
a supply  of  Bibles.  Our  reception  in  the  village  was 
soon  changed  from  reserved  wonderment  to  cordiality. 
At  various  houses  where  we  called  the  entire  neigh- 
bourhood gathered  to  hear  the  unusual  music  and  the 
sweet  words.  Attractive  literature  was  freely  dis- 
tributed and  six  Bibles  were  sold.  We  returned  home 
the  same  evening. 

This  experience  was  so  encouraging  that  the  follow- 
ing week  found  me  again  in  Santa  Barbara — this  time 
alone.  The  situation  had  changed.  People  last  week 
friendly  now  looked  at  the  stranger  askance.  What 
was  the  matter?  Word  had  reached  the  parish  priest 
of  the  previous  visit,  of  the  interest  aroused,  the  litera- 
ture distributed,  and  the  Bibles  purchased.  In  solemn 
assembly  the  simple  people  were  told  of  the  dangerous 
character  of  their  visitors.  “ Wolves  in  sheep’s  cloth- 
ing ! ” “ Come  not  but  to  kill  and  destroy ! ” The 

books  were  ordered  delivered  up  at  once,  and  in  gen- 
eral the  people  were  obedient.  But  so  violent  were 


48  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


the  denunciations  that  a reaction  was  provoked. 
While  many  doors  were  closed  and  faces  turned  away 
on  this  second  visit,  not  so  everywhere.  One  inde- 
pendent villager,  after  relating  what  had  transpired, 
added,  “ But  I did  not  surrender  my  book ; it  is  my 
own  property ! ” That  afternoon,  before  returning 
home,  I had  sold  fourteen  Bibles — all  my  stock.  I 
thoroughly  enjoyed  this  kind  of  work  and  soon  after 
purchased  a horse  and  buckboard  for  the  purpose  of 
making  more  extensive  tours. 


VII 

A THREE-HUNDRED-MILE  TOUR 


THE  year  1887  was  eventful.  Our  Mission  day- 
school  was  established  in  the  spring,  in  charge 
of  an  American  lady  teacher  sent  by  the  Wom- 
an’s Board.  It  occupied  a commodious  apartment  of 
our  new  house,  and  was  soon  filled  with  children  of 
the  congregation.  With  twenty  candidates  ready  to 
be  received,  our  church  was  at  about  the  same  time 
formally  organized,  and  no  Communion  service  passed 
that  year  without  the  reception  of  new  members  on 
confession  of  their  faith. 

Touring  in  the  surrounding  region  now  occupied  a 
large  proportion  of  my  time.  The  first  considerable 
trip  undertaken  was  one  of  three  hundred  miles 
through  the  southern  part  of  Chihuahua.  Four  of  our 
men  accompanied  me,  two  mounted  on  their  lively 
ponies,  and  two  sharing  with  me  the  buckboard,  for 
which  two  horses  had  been  provided.  The  Annual 
Meeting  of  the  Mission  was  to  be  held  in  Chihuahua, 
and  it  was  proposed  to  make  a missionary  tour  of  the 
trip,  going  by  one  route  and  returning  by  another; 
thus,  a score  of  towns  and  villages  never  yet  visited 
by  an  evangelical  worker  might  be  reached.  Besides 
provisions  and  camping  outfit  for  the  way,  we  carried 
a large  box  of  Bibles.  It  was  December.  The  roads 

49 


50  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


were  excellent,  the  weather  was  delightful,  and  our 
animals,  as  well  as  ourselves,  were  in  the  best  of 
spirits.  My  companions  were  acquainted  with  the 
country,  which  was  entirely  new  to  me.  The  itiner- 
ary planned  for  a short  drive  each  day,  then  house-to- 
house  visiting,  and  a public  meeting  every  evening. 
We  were  to  follow  the  Parral  River  to  its  junction 
with  the  Conchos,  a larger  stream,  down  which  we 
were  to  proceed  several  days  before  crossing  the  divide 
to  Chihuahua.  The  first  halt  was  at  a group  of  quaint 
ranch  houses  beautifully  situated  amid  fruit  trees  and 
gardens  upon  the  river  bank.  One  of  the  men  having 
acquaintances  here,  our  party  was  given  a friendly  re- 
ception, and  as  word  passed  around  that  we  had  a 
message  for  them,  the  entire  community  came  together 
and  listened  with  respectful  attention.  The  chief  man 
of  the  place  hospitably  entertained  us  for  the  night, 
and  in  the  morning  became  the  pleased  owner  of  a 
large  Bible.  On  our  departure  this  kindly  host  gave 
us  the  genuine  Mexican  embrace,  saying,  heartily, 
" Que  Dios  vaya  con  ustedes!  ” — May  God  go  with 
you!  It  was  a hopeful  beginning,  and  we  set  forth 
with  confidence  that  our  expedition  was  to  be  a suc- 
cess. What  a fine  morning!  Our  road  took  us  at 
times  through  stretches  of  live  oak,  or  cottonwoods, 
with  occasional  cultivated  fields,  and  then  under  rocky 
bluffs  or  along  levels  with  growths  of  heavy  mesquite. 
By  the  middle  of  the  afternoon  we  had  reached  a large 
village,  where,  seemingly,  respectable  strangers  would 
be  well  received.  Who  can  explain  it?  Not  a door 
was  opened  to  the  travellers.  Repeated  efforts  to  gain 


A THREE-HUNDRED-MILE  TOUR  51 


an  entrance  failed : no  room  for  a meeting,  or  even  for 
lodging,  could  be  obtained.  The  simple  people  seemed 
to  regard  us  as  so  many  attacking  devils  and  were  firm 
in  their  resistance.  But  there  was  a good  road  leading 
away — and  we  took  it. 

La  Cruz  (The  Cross)  is  a snugly  built  city  attrac- 
tively situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Conchos. 
Here,  being  unable  to  secure  accommodations  at  the 
public  inn,  we  were  received  for  the  night  by  a promi- 
nent citizen,  who  showed  every  kindness.  Our  char- 
acter as  Protestants,  however,  was  soon  suspected,  and 
in  the  morning  our  host  gravely  informed  us  that  we 
must  seek  other  quarters.  It  was  Sunday.  Invita- 
tions had  already  been  given  out  for  a meeting  at  ten 
o’clock.  What  should  be  done?  Oddly  enough,  a 
brother  of  our  unfaithful  host,  a man  in  much  poorer 
circumstances,  offered  us  his  own  near-by  house,  with 
every  privilege  desired.  Exactly  at  the  appointed  hour 
for  the  meeting,  the  city  mayor  appeared,  followed  by 
twenty-five  or  thirty  young  men  of  the  better  class,  all 
of  whom  entered  our  room  and  listened  with  respect 
to  the  message,  as  did  also  a large  number  of  people 
who  crowded  about  the  door  and  windows.  Among 
those  who  remained  after  the  service  to  converse  with 
us  was  a judge,  who  expressed  no  little  interest  in 
what  he  had  heard.  This  man  purchased  a copy  of  the 
Bible  and  tarried  with  us  more  than  an  hour,  seeking 
further  information. 

El  Saucillo  (The  Little  Willow)  is  an  hacienda  of 
a thousand  souls.  An  hacienda  is  sometimes  so  large 
as  to  appear  town-like  in  its  extensive  aggregation  of 


52  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


houses,  but  is  in  reality  a private  estate.  The  owner, 
or  owners,  may  deny  entrance  to  whom  they  choose  and 
may  expel  trespassers.  When  we  entered  El  Saucillo 
that  afternoon  we  were  ignorant  as  to  the  ownership 
conditions  of  the  place,  but — as  was  our  custom — we 
at  once  inquired  for  the  village  president,  that  we 
might  inform  him  of  our  presence  and  business.  The 
president,  however,  was  found  to  be  temporarily  out 
of  town.  A convenient  room  for  lodging  was  with- 
out difficulty  secured.  In  our  visits  a schoolmaster  was 
encountered,  who  expressed  great  pleasure  in  seeing  a 
copy  of  the  Scriptures,  and  on  hearing  of  our  desire 
to  hold  a meeting  that  evening  he  at  once  offered  his 
schoolroom  for  the  purpose.  Taking  each  a different 
street,  my  helpers  soon  gave  wide  notice  of  the  pro- 
posed gathering.  At  an  early  hour  the  missionary 
group  proceeded  to  the  school,  which,  by  the  way,  was 
a private  establishment  conducted  by  the  master  in  his 
rented  house.  The  place  was  dark.  The  door  was 
locked.  It  seemed  that  the  alarm,  “ These  men  are 
protestantes!  ” had  been  hastily  circulated,  producing 
no  little  excitement  among  the  people.  As  the  situa- 
tion was  being  discussed  in  the  open  square,  a number 
of  villagers  gathered  about  us,  curious  to  see  what  the 
outcome  would  be.  Before  many  minutes  had  elapsed 
an  emissary  of  the  legal  authorities  appeared  and,  ad- 
dressing himself  to  me,  said,  “ Sir,  you  are  wanted  at 
the  Council  Hall.”  All  of  my  companions  desired  to 
accompany  me  as  I set  out  to  follow  the  officer,  and 
the  request  of  one  who  was  particularly  insistent  was 
accepted.  We  were  conducted  to  a large  and  elegantly 


A THREE-HUNDRED-MILE  TOUR  53 


furnished  hall,  where  were  already  seated  and  await- 
ing us  the  hacienda  owners  and  representatives,  four- 
teen of  them,  fine,  dignified-appearing  men.  With 
cool,  ceremonious  politeness,  chairs  were  assigned  us 
near  the  centre  of  the  assemblage  and  directly  facing 
the  Presidente.  Without  delay  or  preliminaries  the 
case  was  opened,  and  conducted  by  the  president. 
“Where  are  you  from,  sir?” 

“ We  are  from  Parral,  your  honour.” 

“Where  are  you  going?” 

“ We  are  bound  for  Chihuahua,  sir,” 

“ Of  what  nationality  are  you?” 

“ I am  an  American.” 

“And  what  may  be  your  business  in  this  country, 
sir?  ” 

“ I am  a minister  of  the  Gospel,  sir;  my  only  object 
here  is  to  spread  as  widely  as  possible  the  teachings  of 
Jesus  Christ.” 

“ What  books  have  you  ? ” 

“ Chiefly  the  Holy  Bible,  entire  and  in  portions. 
We  have  also  ‘ The  Story  of  the  Gospel,’  and  other 
similar  books.” 

“ Are  these  books  in  Spanish  ? Where  are  they 
published?  What  is  your  purpose  in  visiting  this 
hacienda  ? ” 

“ Your  honour,  our  object  is  to  call  attention  to 
these  books  and  their  teachings  and  to  sell  at  low  price 
to  those  who  may  wish  them.” 

“ Who  has  authorized  you  to  attempt  this  kind  of 
business  in  El  Saucillo?” 

“ Your  honour,  on  arriving  at  this  hacienda  to-day 


54  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


my  first  business  was  to  seek  an  interview  with  you. 
Unfortunately,  you  were  away.  However,  we  are 
honest  men  and  have  attempted  to  do  nothing  here 
which  is  not  freely  permitted  by  the  authorities  in 
other  places.” 

“ That  may  be  true,  but  it  is  our  desire  that  by  nine 
o’clock  to-morrow  morning  you  shall  be  outside  of  this 
town.” 

“Our  departure  shall  be  as  your  honour  requests; 
indeed,  our  own  plans  require  that  we  shall  be  upon  the 
road  by  six  o’clock.” 

“ Very  well,  sir.” 

With  this,  we  wrere  courteously  dismissed. 

Still  farther  down  the  broad  Conchos  valley  two 
other  cities  were  visited.  At  one  our  reception  was 
hostile,  so  much  so  that  my  prudent  companions  urged 
immediate  withdrawal;  at  the  other  a respectful  and 
most  encouraging  hearing  was  obtained. 

The  three  days’  missionary  conference  in  Chihua- 
hua was  of  more  interest  than  this  brief  mention  would 
indicate.  It  was  the  first  time  that  the  Parral  believers 
had  ever  attended  a like  convocation,  and  they  had 
great  reports  to  render  on  their  return  to  the  home 
church. 

The  outgoing  trip  from  Parral  was  a wide  swing 
to  the  east.  The  return  route  was  a curve  to  the  west, 
over  high  mesas  and  rolling  hills,  by  the  foot  of  rugged 
mountains,  and  through  narrow  defiles,  a country 
offering  first-class  facilities  for  successful  brigandage. 
The  December  air  was  delightfully  bracing,  and  even 
two  snowstorms  were  encountered  on  the  heights. 


A THREE-HUNDRED-MILE  TOUR  55 


The  principal  towns  on  this  road  were  Satevo  and 
Zaragoza,  each  of  about  three  thousand  souls.  Two 
years  before  our  visit  one  of  our  colporteurs  had 
called  at  Satevo,  but  was  unceremoniously  driven  from 
the  place  and  the  Bibles  which  he  had  already  disposed 
of  were  immediately  collected  by  the  priest  and  re- 
duced to  ashes.  Here  our  party  arrived  early  one 
afternoon.  The  mayor  received  us  pleasantly  in  his 
office  and  gave  unhesitating  approval  of  our  purpose 
to  hold  a meeting  in  our  rented  room  that  evening, 
offering  all  needed  protection.  At  the  appointed  hour 
the  large  room  was  filled.  While  the  invitation 
did  not  so  indicate,  it  proved  a meeting  “ for  men 
only.” 

There  being  no  seats,  these  men  stood  in  solid  mass, 
with  bared  heads,  and  listened  with  curious,  yet  re- 
spectful, attention  to  the  selections  of  Scriptures  read 
and  the  simple  explanations.  My  companions  sang 
effectively  one  of  their  favourite  church  hymns.  A 
half-hour  passed.  The  faces  of  the  listeners  told  that 
real  interest  was  displacing  the  curiosity.  Suddenly 
there  was  a movement  among  the  throng  of  people  in 
the  street  without,  and  among  those  who  filled  the 
vestibule  of  our  room.  A man  had  forced  his  way 
through  the  crowd  and  was  now  standing  menacingly 
on  the  high  threshold  overlooking  the  audience.  He 
was  an  unmistakable  brigand  in  appearance,  tall  som- 
brero, black,  heavy  mustaches,  cowboy  leggings  reach- 
ing to  the  thighs,  and  stirruped  boots.  In  his  ex- 
tended right  hand  he  flourished  a huge  revolver.  Ad- 
dressing the  leader  of  the  meeting,  he  called,  in  deep 


56  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


tones,  “ The  people  of  this  place,  sir,  do  not  believe 
in  your  religion  of  lies ! ” 

Turning  then  to  the  assembly,  every  eye  being  fas- 
tened on  him,  he  shouted,  “ Who  of  you  accept  the 
teachings  of  these  men  ? ” And  then,  with  a wild  flour- 
ish of  his  gun,  he  roared,  “ All  who  do  not  wish  to  die 
with  the  protestantes,  leave  this  room  instantly!” 
There  was  a moment’s  pause,  followed  by  a mighty 
stampede  for  the  street,  and,  with  the  last  one  out,  went 
also  the  desperado,  well  satisfied  with  having  effectively 
accomplished  the  will  of  his  employer  (the  priest)  in 
disbanding  our  meeting.  It  appeared  like  a case  of  the 
Evil  One  snatching  away  the  good  seed  which  had  been 
sown.  Yet  not  all.  In  a short  time  a number  of  per- 
sons returned  to  our  open  window,  and  here  questions 
were  answered  and  further  explanations  given.  Later 
a courageous  Mexican  came  to  the  room,  the  possessor 
of  a Bible  which  now  had  a new  interest  for  him.  He 
was  full  of  queries  as  to  its  contents  and  use.  He  was 
accompanied  by  his  son  and  a friend,  both  sharing  his 
concern.  When,  at  midnight,  we  bade  those  men 
adios,  it  was  with  the  conviction  that  the  Truth  had 
gained  a victory. 

As  the  disturber  of  the  meeting  had  infringed  the 
law  of  the  republic  guaranteeing  freedom  of  worship, 
the  mayor  offered  to  proceed  against  him;  but  the 
evil  character  of  the  region,  together  with  the  limited 
time  at  our  command,  decided  us  to  continue  our 
journey  as  planned. 

At  Zaragoza  was  a band  of  firm  believers.  Our 
coming  was  warmly  welcomed;  the  entertainment  was 


A THREE-HUNDRED-MILE  TOUR  57 


most  cordial,  and  we  enjoyed  delightful  fellowship 
through  one  afternoon  and  evening.  Reports  of  the 
Chihuahua  conference,  together  with  the  recountal  of 
touring  experiences — given  most  graphically  by  my 
companions — aroused  the  enthusiasm  of  the  Zaragoza 
believers  and  gave  an  additional  grip  to  their  firmness. 

The  last  day’s  drive  was  over  a rolling  prairie,  with 
an  occasional  tree,  a dry  run,  or  group  of  ranch  houses 
to  relieve  the  monotony.  The  snowstorm  which  broke 
upon  us  as  we  arrived  in  Parral  that  evening  was 
hardly  appropriate  to  that  sunny  land,  and,  happily, 
such  an  episode  is  rare. 


VIII 


MEXICAN  HOME  LIFE 

MY  little  family  occasionally  accompanied  me  on 
tours  to  the  out-stations,  where  we  were  al- 
ways welcomed  in  the  homes.  We  did  not 
always  sleep  on  the  floor,  as  many  do,  but  often  on 
soft  wool  mattress  beds  between  clean,  white  sheets, 
sometimes  enclosed  in  mosquito  netting.  Nor  did  we 
usually  eat  on  the  floor,  as  some  do;  our  table  would 
be  quite  decent,  although  simply  furnished.  The  corn 
tortillas,  made  as  they  are  in  some  Mexican  kitchens, 
white,  delicately  thin,  toasted  to  a crisp,  often  with  a 
puff,  and  served  hot  from  the  earthen  griddle,  are — 
well,  we  would  take  them  most  any  day  in  preference 
to  the  best  product  of  American  ovens.  Beef  is — or 
was — abundant  in  that  cattle  country.  No  family 
was  too  poor  to  afford  meat  of  some  kind.  The  chili 
sauce,  or  red-pepper  dressing,  so  commonly  used  with 
meats,  we  learned  to  enjoy,  but  partook  of  it  cau- 
tiously. Pepper  as  a food  is  said  to  be  anti-malarial, 
and  this  may  explain  the  craving  for  highly  seasoned 
dishes  so  common  in  hot  countries.  Pepper  in  one 
form  or  another  is  rarely  absent  from  the  Mexican 
bill  of  fare.  When  green  and  tender  it  is  boiled  and 
served  like  spinach.  Hot?  Yes,  as  fire  to  the  unac- 
customed mouth;  yet  in  my  tours,  at  tables  where 

68 


MEXICAN  HOME  LIFE 


59 


other  food  was  scarce,  I have  had  my  plate  heaped 
with  it,  and,  though  unadulterated,  one  is  expected  to 
swallow  it  calmly,  and  clean  his  dish  with  tearless 
eyes — as  do  his  table  mates. 

Chili  con  came — red  pepper  with  meat;  enchilados 
— tortillas  with  cheese  and  red-pepper  paste  made  into 
sandwich  rolls;  rellenos — green  peppers  stuffed  with 
hash  or  other  delicacy — all  these  are  favourite  dishes. 
Many  of  our  ordinary  vegetables  we  found  strangely 
uncommon  in  Chihuahua.  We  missed  potatoes.  They 
were  in  the  Parral  market,  but  being  the  size  of  small 
hickory  nuts  one  would  hardly  recognize  them;  then 
their  price  was  in  astonishing  contrast  to  their  size. 
(At  the  present  time  fine  potatoes  in  enormous  quan- 
tities are  grown  in  the  state  of  Chihuahua.)  Green 
com  on  the  cob  is  greatly  prized  and  abundant  in  its 
season,  as  are  pumpkins.  The  latter  they  begin  to  use 
when  about  the  size  of  one’s  fist,  throwing  them  into 
the  pot  with  the  meat,  as  an  attractive  element  of  the 
stew.  When  mature,  the  pumpkin  is  baked,  or  boiled, 
and  eaten  with  milk. 

But  the  food  of  the  Mexican  home,  that  without 
which  no  family,  poor  or  rich,  can  pass  the  day,  is 
frijoles,  or  beans.  The  Mexican  beans,  a large,  pink 
variety,  are  richer  and  of  quite  superior  flavour  to  the 
white  bean  of  Boston  fame.  They  are  put  into  the 
earthen  boiling  pot  early  in  the  morning,  remaining 
over  a slow  fire  until  the  dinner  hour.  Then,  shortly 
before  serving,  they  are  turned,  with  sharp  sputter- 
ings,  into  a hot  skillet  of  lard,  and  a plentiful  amount 
of  grated  cheese  is  stirred  in,  making  a royal  dish! 


60  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


The  beans,  while  usually  the  major  part  of  the  meal, 
are  served  as  dessert,  except  at  high-class  tables,  where 
they  are  followed  by  some  sweet  “ finisher.”  So 
prominent  a feature  of  Mexican  living  are  the  frijoles 
that  as  one  would  say  to  a friend,  “ Come  home  to  tea 
with  me,”  the  Mexicans  are  accustomed  to  say,  “ Come 
with  me  to  beans!3’ 

The  chief  table  drink  of  Mexico  is  black  coffee — by 
no  means  weak — sweetened  to  a syrup.  Sometimes  it 
is  made  of  concentrated  strength  and  reduced  as  one 
may  like  with  hot  milk.  This  is  not  bad.  Tea — what 
we  know  as  such — is  not  common;  indeed,  is  almost 
unknown  among  the  poor  people.  A native  weed,  of 
vile  savour,  is  sometimes  brewed;  so  are  orange  peels 
and  leaves;  but  steeped  cinnamon  is  more  often  served 
at  night,  and  makes  quite  a tolerable  beverage. 

Cook  stoves  were  little  known  in  those  days,  and 
even  now  are  rarely  found  in  the  country  places.  The 
kitchen  is  furnished  with  an  adobe  fireplace,  whose 
base  is  raised  two  feet  above  the  floor  and  occupies  the 
entire  end  of  the  room,  giving  space  enough  to  roast 
a pig  and  an  ox  at  the  same  time ! Usually,  however, 
a modest  fire  of  three  crossed  sticks  suffices  for  all 
needs,  and  the  empty  space  is  occupied  by  pots,  empty 
and  full.  It  is  cupboard  and  pantry  combined.  In 
cool  weather  and  warm,  here  are  sleeping  cats  and  a 
dog,  with  one  eye  open  to  opportunities;  and,  during 
the  busy  cooking  hours,  one  or  more  happy  babies  share 
the  ample  shelf,  under  the  mother’s  eye. 

Speaking  of  babies  introduces  a feature  of  foremost 
interest  in  all  Mexican  homes.  Nowhere  under  heaven 


A Picnic  in  El  Valle 


MEXICAN  HOME  LIFE 


61 


are  babies  more  plentiful.  Families  of  eight,  twelve, 
or  fifteen  are  the  rule.  One  of  our  believers  at  Zara- 
goza has  been  the  proud  father  of  thirty-one  Mexicans ! 
When  a mere  boy  he  married  a girl  of  fifteen,  who 
bore  him  fifteen  children.  Soon  after  her  death  he 
remarried,  again  to  a girl  in  her  teens.  Up  to  date 
this  second  wife  has  brought  sixteen  dusky  infants 
into  his  home.  Little  danger  of  race  suicide  there! 
But  there  is  another  side  to  the  story.  Twenty-two 
times  has  this  same  good  father  marched  to  the  ceme- 
tery, carrying  each  time  for  burial  a child  from  his 
own  home.  (Curiously  enough,  his  humble  property 
adjoins  the  cemetery !)  Of  his  first  family  only  three 
arrived  to  adult  age,  and  of  the  second,  ten  of  the  six- 
teen have  passed  on.  If  the  birth  rate  among  the 
Mexicans  is  extraordinary,  no  less  so  is  the  infant 
mortality.  A favourite  hymn  in  our  congregation  is  a 
translation  of  the  song  some  of  us  knew  long  ago— 

“Around  the  throne  of  God  in  heaven 
Ten  thousand  children  stand” 

In  announcing  that  hymn  at  country  meetings,  I used 
to  ask,  “ How  many  of  you,  fathers  and  mothers,  have 
children  in  heaven  ? ” Usually  all  hands  would 
promptly  go  up,  while  the  replies  came,  “ Tengo  cinco.” 
“ Tengo  ocho”  I have  five,  I have  eight,  etc.  Deplor- 
able ignorance  as  to  proper  sanitary  conditions  in  the 
home  and  the  care  of  children  is  responsible  for  a large 
proportion  of  this  death  harvest  among  the  little  ones. 
Children’s  diseases,  as  measles  and  scarlet  fever,  carry 


62  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


multitudes  away.  The  parents,  with  remarkable  forti- 
tude, are  accustomed  to  say,  “ It  is  God’s  will;  I must 
be  resigned.”  Smallpox,  though  not  nearly  so  serious 
as  in  the  North,  is  never  long  absent  from  many  Mexi- 
can communities,  and  with  all  of  these  plagues  few, 
or  no,  precautions  were  taken  against  contagion.  In 
the  streets,  even  in  a city  like  Parral,  I have  met 
frightful  pox  patients,  such  as  one  would  think  should 
remain  at  least  another  two  weeks  in  the  pest-house. 
While  on  a journey  once  I called  at  a ranch  for  a drink 
of  water.  Among  the  children  standing  about  was  a 
three-year-old  boy,  entirely  naked,  his  pox  in  “ full 
bloom,”  and  he  contentedly  chewing  a tortilla! 

But  a change  is  even  now  coming  in  Mexico. 
Samaritan-like  neighbors — both  Mexican  and  foreign 
— will  teach  the  simple-hearted  peons  how  to  care  for 
themselves  and  their  children.  They  will  minister  not 
simply  to  their  souls,  but  to  their  bodies  as  well.  With 
the  checking  of  infant  mortality  and  the  scourges  which 
now  sweep  away  such  multitudes,  the  increase  of 
Mexico’s  population  and  her  advance  toward  the  front 
rank  of  world  peoples  will  be  one  of  the  surprises  of 
the  coming  years. 

Mexicans  are  very  fond  of  animals;  so  much  so  that 
they  often  allow  them  a generous  share  of  the  home 
privileges.  Dogs  are  especially  valued,  often  more 
than  one  claiming  membership  in  the  household.  It 
is  not  an  exception  to  the  rule  that  these  “ eat  at  their 
master’s  table.”  Not  crumbs,  but  generous  morsels 
of  the  best  the  table  affords,  are  every  now  and  then 
thrown  into  their  expectant  jaws.  Ranch  life  in  most 


MEXICAN  HOME  LIFE 


63 


sections  would  be  unsafe  without  the  protection  of 
dogs.  Two,  at  least,  are  always  on  guard  against  in- 
truders— a small  cur  whose  sole  business  is  vigorous, 
incessant  barking,  and  a large  one  with  silent  mouth, 
but — beware  of  him ! Not  infrequently  a full  pack  of 
these  “ home  guards  ” will  sally  to  meet  the  stranger, 
be  he  bandit  or  honest  traveller.  In  such  situation  one 
should  at  least  be  provided  with  a stout  stick  and  a 
strong  heart;  but  he  would  better  do  as  the  prudent 
Mexican  who,  having  advanced  to  within  hailing  dis- 
tance of  the  house,  halts  and  calls — as  a steamer  wish- 
ing to  make  port  calls  for  the  pilot.  If  satisfied  with 
the  evident  intentions  of  the  visitor,  our  good  ranch 
people  restrain  their  faithful  dogs  and  courteously 
receive  the  guest. 

A tidy  hostess  at  whose  home  we  were  once  stay- 
ing, while  attached  to  her  animals,  denied  them  ad- 
mission to  the  living-rooms.  Yet  I was  entertained 
for  several  weeks  in  a home  where  kind-hearted  hos- 
pitality overflowed;  but  the  chickens,  old  and  young, 
were  not  excluded.  Some  had  nests  inside.  The 
pigs — all  sizes — were  wont  to  make  their  hourly  incur- 
sions, passing  from  room  to  room  plunder-bound,  and 
bent  on  reminding  their  superiors  of  appetites  un- 
satisfied. 

At  our  bountiful  table  several  cats,  an  occasional 
hen,  with  peeping  brood,  and  various  other  fowls 
would  all  draw  near  in  receptive  attitude.  Once  at 
breakfast  an  enterprising  broiler  flew  entirely  over  the 
table.  Again,  while  diligently  attempting  to  get  my 
share  of  the  meal,  I was  startled  by  a vigorous  push 


64  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


in  the  rear,  and  turning  discovered  a huge  ram  glaring 
at  me  with  beseeching  eyes! 

My  sleeping-room  was  tidily  kept  and  satisfactory, 
with  a single  exception.  In  one  corner  was  tethered 
a handsome  game-cock,  a valuable  bird,  being  trained 
with  care  for  contests  in  the  pit.  In  another  corner 
was  another  of  these  animals,  likewise  tethered  by  the 
leg.  During  the  day  they  were  picketed  outside,  but 
at  night,  for  considerations  of  greater  safety,  they 
were  lodged  with  the  guest  in  the  “spare  room”! 
Being  highly  bred  animals,  of  great  esteem  in  the 
family,  the  arrangement  was  in  no  wise  discourteous. 
It  was  winter,  and  when  I closed  my  door  the  first 
night  for  retiring,  it  was  with  gratitude  that  the  lines 
had  fallen  to  me  in  pleasant  places.  I was  not  then 
aware  of  the  presence  of  room  companions.  At  about 
midnight  I was  aroused  by  the  most  startling  sound 
which  I had  ever  heard ! While  trembling  in  horrified 
amazement,  the  crowing  of  a cock  in  shocking  proxim- 
ity served  to  explain  the  situation.  Before  the  day  had 
fully  come,  not  twice  nor  thrice  did  those  birds  lift 
their  voices;  and  not  only  they,  but  scores  of  others 
throughout  the  village.  I heard  them  all,  and  marvelled 
at  the  individuality  of  crow  each  separate  cock  pos- 
sessed and  the  wide  variety  of  expression  to  be  noted 
in  a group  of  some  threescore  crowers. 

On  the  second  night  the  recurrence,  while  less  a 
surprise,  was  scarcely  less  arousing.  I thought  to 
accustom  myself  to  the  experience  and  cease  to  be  dis- 
turbed, but  after  a few  nights  I abandoned  the  idea 
and  wonderfully  enjoyed  thereafter  the  room  by  my- 


MEXICAN  HOME  LIFE 


65 


self.  However,  one  morning,  the  door  connecting  my 
room  with  the  parlour  having  been  left  ajar,  as  well  as 
the  door  leading  to  the  rear  yard,  I was  surprised,  while 
still  in  bed,  to  see  the  family  cow  thrust  in  her  head, 
then  calmly  walk  through  my  apartments  en  route  to 
her  calf  in  the  yard.  Wearied  of  waiting  in  the  street, 
and  seeing  an  open  door,  she  profited  by  the  short 
cut ! 

During  the  winter,  in  the  house  I speak  of,  only 
two  meals  a day  are  served — breakfast  about  ten  and 
dinner  at  three.  Hot  coffee,  however,  was  taken  in- 
formally on  arising,  and  a cup  of  atoli — a thin  corn 
porridge — at  night.  This  custom  is  common,  espe- 
cially in  the  country  places.  But  in  high-class  families 
the  day  commences  with  a cup  of  hot  chocolate  or 
coffee  and  a light  roll,  while  one  is  still  in  bed.  Break- 
fast comes  at  nine,  dinner  at  two,  the  merienda  (light 
lunch)  about  five,  and  la  cena  at  eight  or  nine.  This 
supper,  or  evening  dinner,  is  the  most  elaborate  meal 
of  the  day. 

Among  the  upper-class  Mexicans  the  sleeping  ac- 
commodations are  unexcelled.  The  beds  are  beauti- 
ful and  luxurious.  The  parlours  in  these  homes  are 
provided,  in  almost  superfluous  abundance,  with  ex- 
pensive furniture  once  imported  largely  from  Austria. 
The  great  majority  of  Mexican  homes,  however,  are 
very  scantily  furnished.  Homemade  benches,  stools, 
and  tables  are  common — if,  indeed,  a table  is  aspired 
to.  As  to  beds,  the  peon  class  know  or  desire  nothing 
better  than  a blanket  and  a rush  mat  upon  the  hard 
ground  floor.  Many,  more  aspiring,  provide  raw- 


66  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


hides — usually  from  a handsome  cow.  These,  cured 
flat  as  a table,  nicely  trimmed,  and  laid  hair  side  up, 
make  ever-enduring  rugs  and  beds.  The  next  step 
toward  a higher  civilization  is  a light  mattress  and 
sheet,  one  or  two.  In  more  aspiring  homes  the  home- 
made wool  mattress  is  thicker,  and,  in  addition  to  sheets 
and  blankets,  there  is  a tasty  “ store  ” spread.  Home- 
made wooden  bedsteads  are  often  seen  in  the  ranch 
houses,  but  they  are  usually  infested,  and  a clean  bed 
on  a well-kept  rawhide  is  to  be  preferred. 

We  would  not  be  satisfied  with  the  sleeping  ventila- 
tion, especially  during  the  cool  months,  for  doors  are 
tightly  closed  and  barred.  There  are  no  windows,  or, 
if  so,  they  are  also  barred.  And  there  you  are,  with 
perhaps  a dozen  other  occupants  of  the  floor  all  about 
you.  But  you  close  your  eyes  and  forget  it.  It  is 
strange  how  soundly  one  sleeps  after  a long  day  in 
the  saddle! 

The  American  finds  much  lacking  in  the  ordinary 
Mexican  home.  Often  the  surroundings  are  utterly 
forlorn.  Where  with  little  enterprise  shade  trees 
might  abound,  for  decade  after  decade  the  vertical  sun 
beats  down  unhindered.  Thousands  of  country  chil- 
dren grow  up  scarcely  knowing  the  taste  of  fruit. 
Their  fathers  passed  their  lives  on  the  same  old  ranch, 
with  the  same  experience.  And  yet  fruit  trees  may 
grow  everywhere,  and  all  are  fond  of  fruit.  Pure 
shiftlessness?  Not  far  from  it;  and  yet  not  one  in  a 
hundred  of  these  home  places  is  owned  by  its  occu- 
pants. Rarely  does  the  proprietor  concern  himself 
with  bettering  the  condition  of  his  tenants;  and  these 


MEXICAN  HOME  LIFE  67 

are  very  apt  to  be  satisfied  with  things  as  they  find 
them. 

During  the  short  but  somewhat  sharp  winter  in 
Chihuahua  there  is  no  little  suffering  from  cold.  As 
a rule,  no  provision  is  made  for  heating  the  living- 
room — and  this  even  in  the  better  class  of  houses. 
During  the  day  the  sun  takes  pity  on  the  thousands  of 
ill-clad  people.  On  the  south  side  of  buildings  the  old 
folk,  the  infirm,  the  children — when  not  at  play — and 
all  the  loafers  are  found,  usually  in  crouching  posi- 
tion, backs  to  the  wall.  It  is  not  strange  that  little  or 
no  ventilation  is  allowed  at  night. 

In  the  humble  Mexican  home  few  or  no  books  are 
found,  and  no  newspapers.  The  postman  never  comes. 
There  is  no  evening  lamp;  no  easy  chairs;  perhaps  no 
table.  The  cigarette,  of  home-grown  tobacco,  deftly 
rolled  in  cornhusk,  takes  the  place  of  books.  The 
ranch  house  not  only  serves  as  a dwelling,  but  for 
place  of  storage.  The  flat  roof  is  often  piled  high 
with  provender.  Inside  the  front  door  (often  there 
is  no  other)  the  first  objects  seen  are  the  saddles  and 
other  cowboy  equipments.  In  the  more  pretentious 
establishments  is  a vestibule,  and  here  is  kept  the 
family  vehicle.  On  entering  the  more  humble  ranch 
dwelling,  you  notice  in  one  corner  of  the  living-room 
a pile  of  wheat;  in  another  what  remains  of  the  corn 
harvest.  If  you  are  a guest  here,  in  your  bedroom  you 
discover  hanging  on  the  walls  glowing  strings  of  red 
pepper,  little  cheeses  on  suspended  shelves  near  the 
roof,  a line  of  jerked  beef,  and  a box  of  beans  (un- 
fortunately not  baked !)  at  the  foot  of  your  bed.  From 


68  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 

his  place  high  on  the  wall  at  one  side  looks  down  sol- 
emnly upon  you  a great  wooden  image  of  San  Jose  and 
on  the  opposite  wall  is  an  immense  and  faded  print  of 
the  Virgen  de  Guadalupe.  It  is  an  heirloom,  sacred, 
but  neglected. 

While  awaiting  breakfast  in  the  morning  the  trav- 
eller should  not  fail  to  visit  the  corral  at  the  rear  of  the 
house,  for  if  it  is  the  milking  season  he  will  be  inter- 
ested in  the  method.  The  hind  legs  of  the  cow  are 
first  securely  bound  together  with  a rawhide  thong. 
The  calf — a loose  line  dangling  from  its  neck — comes 
bounding  toward  her  and  eagerly  commences  opera- 
tions. Only  well  started  is  the  flow  of  milk,  when  the 
poor  animal  is  jerked  away,  and  his  place  taken  by 
the  milkman;  and  when  he  has  finished,  the  calf  is 
allowed  to  return  for  further  fruitless  exercise.  This 
is  the  universal  process  of  milking  in  that  country. 
The  Mexican  cows  lack  what  we  would  call  civilized 
training.  Yet  this  is  not  strange,  for  after  the  cheese 
season — August-October — most  of  them  run  wild  with 
their  young. 

A by-product  of  cheese-making  is  a peculiar  brand 
of  ranch  butter,  made  as  follows:  A porous  earthen 
jar  of  ample  dimensions  is  fixed  upon  a high,  three- 
pronged post  set  conveniently  near  the  milking  yard. 
Into  this  jar  are  turned  each  morning  (for  there  is  no 
milking  at  night)  the  “ strippings  ” of  the  milk.  The 
cloth  cover  is  designed  to  protect  from  dust  and  in- 
sects. Day  by  day  the  hot  sun  causes  evaporation, 
while  day  and  night  constant  percolation  through  the 
fine  interstices  of  the  jar  extracts  the  watery  element, 


MEXICAN  HOME  LIFE 


69 


leaving  the  pure  butter  fat.  A few  weeks  after  the 
close  of  the  season  the  contents  of  the  jar  have  suffi- 
ciently “ ripened  ” to  be  drawn  upon  for  use.  Excel- 
lent ? Whew ! ! 

Contrasting  with  the  dreariness  so  often  encoun- 
tered are  not  infrequent  evidences  of  homely  cheer — 
house  plants,  climbing  vines,  a tiny  plot  of  flowers 
protected  by  quaint  enclosure,  rustic  cages  of  singing 
birds  and  a parrot.  In  addition,  there  may  be  a dimin- 
utive vegetable  garden,  and  where  irrigating  water  is 
plentiful,  as  in  valley  towns,  few  houses  are  without 
fig  trees  or  pomegranates,  a number  of  seedling 
peaches,  perhaps  a quince,  and  English  walnut;  rarely 
grapes  or  apples,  and  still  less  frequently  berries. 

Once  when  visiting  a little  pueblo  for  the  first  time 
a very  tastefully  finished  adobe  dwelling  attracted  my 
attention.  The  front  yard  was  beautified  with  shrubs 
and  flowers  and  enclosed  with  a pretty  picket  fence. 
When  had  I ever  seen  anything  so  homelike!  I later 
learned  that  the  handsome  young  Mexican  wife  had 
spent  some  years  in  the  society  of  Americans.  This 
was  suggestive. 

I have  spoken  on  a previous  page  of  infant  mortal- 
ity, and  will  close  the  chapter  with  an  instance  of 
longevity,  in  the  person  of  the  grandfather  of  an 
esteemed  member  of  our  Zaragoza  congregation,  her- 
self the  mother  of  a large  flock.  They  assured  me  that 
he  was  one  hundred  and  eleven  years  old,  and  there 
could  hardly  have  been  a mistake  about  it.  And  yet, 
while  he  easily  looked  as  if  he  had  endured  the  knocks 
of  a century,  he  was  far  from  infirm  or  feeble-minded, 


70  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


as  I discovered  in  conversation  with  him.  The  family 
informed  me  that  he  was  “ at  present  engaged  in 
breaking  some  colts,”  an  accomplishment  in  which  he 
had  had  more  than  a hundred  years  of  practice.  I may 
have  shown  incredulity  on  hearing  this,  and  don 
Tomas  at  once  proposed  a test  of  endurance  between 
us.  “ If  you  please,”  said  he,  “ we  will  go  on  horse- 
back to-morrow  to  Parral — fifty  miles.  We  will  set 
out  at  six  in  the  morning  and  see  which  one  will  arrive 
there  first.”  Observing  the  vigour  and  considering  the 
advantage  in  experience  of  the  centenarian  I prudently 
declined  the  challenge.  He  might  have  outridden  me ! 


IX 


A MEXICAN  MISSIONARY  FAMILY 

IN  August,  1887,  we  received  from  the  Union  Park 
Sunday-school  of  Chicago  the  gift  of  a portable 
organ,  to  be  used  in  our  missionary  tours.  I 
introduce  here  a letter  written  later  to  the  Sunday- 
school  : 

“Dear  Friends:  Nearly  a year  has  passed  since 
we  received  your  present  of  the  ‘ Baby  ’ organ.  Un- 
like most  foreign  missionaries,  the  organ  was  not 
obliged  to  acquire  a new  language,  but — like  the  Apos- 
tles at  Pentecost — it  speaks  and  all  understand,  in 
their  own  tongue. 

“ The  Mexicans  are  very  fond  of  music.  Their  in- 
strumental bands  are  famous.  It  is  music  that  sum- 
mons to  the  theatre,  to  the  bull  fights,  and  the  cock  pits. 
One  might  almost  say  that  there  is  never  a gathering 
of  people  here  without  music,  and  equally  true  is  the 
reverse,  that  there  is  never  music  without  a gathering 
of  people. 

“ So,  the  part  the  organ  plays  in  our  work  is  might- 
ily important,  for  it  is  still  often  difficult  to  induce  the 
people  to  listen  to  us.  A Protestant  missionary  here 
is  considered  an  agent  of  Satan,  whose  aim  it  is  to  way- 
lay souls  for  destruction.  We  are  called  * wolves  in 

71 


72  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


sheep’s  clothing.’  Our  teaching,  although  virtuous- 
appearing,  is  believed  to  contain  deadly  poison.  The 
padres  persist  in  solemn  warnings,  threatening  to  ex- 
communicate those  who  attend  our  places  of  worship. 
But  never  does  this  little  instrument  fail  to  attract 
listeners,  and  for  this  reason  when  holding  services  in 
a new  place  we  keep  it  busy. 

“A  short  time  ago  the  organ  made  a tour  with  the 
missionary  family  to  Zaragoza,  an  interesting  out- 
station  at  the  north.  To  my  knowledge,  it  is  the  first 
and  only  instrument  of  the  kind  that  has  ever  been 
heard  in  that  sleepy  old  town,  and  in  spite  of  priestly 
protests  hundreds  of  villagers  at  one  time  and  another 
came  to  listen,  many  not  entering  the  room,  but  crowd- 
ing one  another  at  the  windows  and  door  that  they 
might  not  only  hear,  but  see  the  * pleasant-voiced  crea- 
ture.’ They  heard  many  Gospel  melodies  familiar  to 
you,  also  clear  Gospel  truths  never  heard  by  them  be- 
fore. We  know  not  a few  cases  in  which  music  has 
opened  the  door  of  the  heart  and  held  the  door  ajar 
while  conviction  of  sin  entered  and,  finally,  Christ 
Himself,  never  to  depart.  Such  progress  is  the  work 
making  in  Zaragoza  that  the  organ  is  still  there,  where 
it  is  likely  to  remain  for  some  time.  It  was  in  daily  use 
in  the  meetings,  and  instrumental  lessons  were  given 
to  a young  Mexican  woman,  who  is  rapidly  learning 
to  play.” 

The  story  of  this  young  woman’s  conversion,  to- 
gether with  that  of  her  father  and  mother,  and  their 
subsequent  Christian  activity,  is  interesting.  Zaragoza 


A MEXICAN  MISSIONARY  FAMILY  73 


was  their  old  home,  but  years  ago  they  were  living 
in  Chihuahua.  One  evening,  passing  down  a street 
of  the  city,  they  heard  unusual  music,  and  crossing  to 
the  door  of  a brightly  lighted  hall  they  saw  a large 
and,  to  them,  uncommon  assemblage.  They  were 
filled  with  wonder.  Curiously  peering  in,  and  linger- 
ing, an  usher  politely  invited  them  to  enter.  They  did 
so,  little  realizing  the  character  of  the  meeting. 
As  there  were  no  vacant  seats  in  the  rear 
they  were  shown  to  one  well  forward.  It  was  the 
organization  meeting  of  the  first  Protestant  church  of 
the  state  of  Chihuahua,  and  was  one  of  most  unusual 
interest  and  solemnity,  closing  with  the  administration 
of  the  Lord’s  Supper.  The  impression  made  upon 
these  visitors  was  extraordinary.  They  had  heard  of 
Protestantism.  This  was  totally  unlike  their  concep- 
tion of  it,  and  whatever  it  might  be  had  gripped  them 
with  a power  never  before  experienced.  They  re- 
turned that  night  in  silence,  quietly  admitting  to  one 
another  their  feelings  of  amazement.  They  had  re- 
ceived pressing  invitation  to  attend  succeeding  meetings 
and  agreed  to  do  so.  The  result  was  confirmation  and 
strengthening  of  first  impressions,  and  their  early  re- 
ception into  the  church.  By  nature  earnestly  religious, 
the  wonderful  change  which  had  come  into  their  lives 
would  not  tolerate  inaction.  To  return  to  Zaragoza, 
explain  their  new-found  faith  to  their  old  neighbours, 
and  persuade  them  to  accept  it  was  now  their  purpose. 
But  that  they  might  be  the  better  equipped  for  this 
effort,  they  remained  some  months  in  Chihuahua, 
studying  constantly  their  Bible,  and  availing  them- 


74  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


selves  of  every  possible  opportunity  for  instruction. 

The  difficulties  encountered  in  their  enterprise  at 
Zaragoza  would  have  weakened  a zeal  less  courageous 
and  persistent  than  theirs.  Juan  de  Dios  (John  of 
God)  Loya,  Marcela,  his  wife,  and  Cleofitas,  the 
daughter,  had  always  been  held  in  esteem,  but  as  the 
word  quickly  ran  that  they  had  become  protestantes, 
their  salutations  were  coldly  received,  and  before  long 
doors  began  to  be  closed  in  their  faces.  If  they  chose 
to  enter  the  way  of  perdition  themselves,  that  was  bad 
enough,  but  that  they  should  attempt  to  draw  others 
with  them  into  the  pit  was  insufferable.  John  of  God 
was  now  called  “John  of  the  Devil,”  and  he  and  his 
were  treated  as  emissaries  from  hell. 

So  patiently  and  tactfully,  however,  did  these  Chris- 
tians pursue  their  undertaking  that  within  the  space  of 
three  months  prejudices  had  begun  to  yield,  and  among 
five  families — not  of  the  lower  class — a lively  interest 
had  been  awakened.  That  interest  extended  and  deep- 
ened, resulting  in  the  organization  of  a vigorous 
church. 


X 


HOW  THE  RANCHERS  BUILT  THEIR 
CHURCH 

AS  I come  to  some  experiences  in  an  out-station  of 
A\the  mission,  I am  reminded  of  the  many  trips 
which  I made,  unaccompanied,  over  those  lonely 
country  roads,  and  of  the  safety  of  travel  in  those 
times,  as  compared  with  the  risky  conditions  prevail- 
ing in  recent  years. 

It  would  be  difficult  to  imagine  conditions  more 
favourable  for  the  operations  of  banditti  than  are  en- 
countered in  Mexico.  Mountains,  canons,  natural 
caves,  or  thick  brush  are  never  far  away.  Isolated 
haciendas  are  numerous,  having  valuable  accumula- 
tions of  goods  and  small  means  of  defence.  There  are 
never  lacking — there,  as  elsewhere — half-savage  men, 
fond  of  adventure,  and  at  home  in  the  saddle.  From 
the  gaining  of  national  independence  until  about  1870 
Mexico  was  in  an  almost  continual  state  of  revolution, 
one  faction  preying  upon  another,  with  methods  often 
not  clearly  distinct  from  brigandage.  After  a peace 
had  been  declared,  it  is  easy  to  understand  how  armed 
bands,  particularly  of  the  defeated  faction,  would  pre- 
fer a profitable  outlawry  to  the  surrender  of  arms  and 
the  return  to  honest  labour.  When  President  Diaz 
assumed  the  reins  of  government,  Mexico  was  infested 

75 


76  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


with  these  outlaws.  By  a tactful  policy  many  of  these 
were  induced  to  accept  amnesty  and  become  incor- 
porated with  the  Federal  troops,  their  well-known 
valour  being  utilized  in  a better  cause.  With  respect 
to  all  others  the  most  drastic  measures  were  employed. 
They  were  hunted  down  like  wild  animals  and  became 
practically  exterminated.  For  twenty-five  years  be- 
fore the  uprising  of  1910,  highway  robbery  was  not 
more  common  in  Mexico  than  in  many  parts  of  the 
United  States.  Rarely  did  one  hear  of  an  instance. 

On  going  to  that  country,  I was  advised  never  to 
travel  alone,  and  for  a year  or  two  I minded  the  ad- 
vice; but  I soon  began  to  make  tours  of  fifty  miles  or 
more  without  company.  I always  went  unarmed,  ex- 
cept that,  when  driving,  a good  shotgun  was  carried 
for  small  game  by  the  way.  The  occasional  cases  of 
assault  reported  were  usually  upon  agents  of  rich  min- 
ing companies  who  were  supposed  to  be  carrying  funds 
for  the  weekly  payment  of  labourers. 

Being  evidently  mistaken  for  an  American  paymas- 
ter, I one  morning  had  the  novel  experience  of  being 
“ held  up  ” while  on  the  way  from  Parral  to  Las 
Cuevas.  I was  on  horseback  and  did  not  follow  the 
well-travelled  road,  but  took  a short  cut  by  a more  un- 
frequented trail.  While  leisurely  winding  my  way  up 
the  narrow  canon  leading  to  the  high  mesa  at  the 
south  I was  startled  by  a pistol  shot.  Raising  my 
eyes  I saw  emerging  from  a turn  in  the  path  ahead  two 
mounted  men.  They  were  some  three  hundred  feet 
away,  and  as  I looked  one  of  them  raised  his  arm, 
pointed  a pistol  toward  the  sky,  and  again  a shot  rang 


HOW  RANCHERS  BUILT  CHURCH  77 


out.  I was  puzzled.  Were  they  merely  drunken,  and 
thus  risky  men  to  meet?  Or  was  their  motive  in  firing 
to  discover  if  I were  armed  and  what  my  attitude 
might  be  ? In  any  case,  what  course  could  I take  other 
than  straight  ahead,  like  an  honest  man?  So  on  we 
went,  mustang  and  I,  as  if  to  meet  old  friends.  The 
narrow  gorge  allowed  no  room  for  detour,  had  that 
been  prudent,  and  as  we  met  I gave  the  usual  saluta- 
tion, and  made  as  if  I would  pass  on.  But  a firm 
hand  was  laid  upon  my  pony’s  neck,  grasping  the  reins. 
We  stopped,  facing  each  other. 

“ What  is  your  name  ? ” 

“ My  name  is  Case.” 

“ Are  you  an  American  ? ” 

1 am. 

“ Where  do  you  live  ? ” 

“ In  Parral.” 

“ Are  you  married  ? ” 

“ Yes,  sir.” 

“ How  many  children  have  you?  ” 

“ I have  three.” 

“ Is  your  wife  a Mexican?  ” 

“ No,  senor.” 

“ What  is  your  occupation?  ” 

“lama  minister  of  the  Gospel.” 

“Where  are  you  going?” 

“ To  Las  Cuevas.” 

“ What  will  you  do  there  ? ” 

“We  are  to  have  a meeting  of  our  people  there  this 
evening.” 

The  two  men  now  appeared  satisfied  with  the  exami- 


78  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


nation  and  exchanged  glances,  as  if  to  say,  “This  is 
not  he.”  With  profuse  protestations  of  friendship, 
the  reins  were  released,  and  I was  bidden  Godspeed 
on  my  way.  “ Sirvase  listed  perdonar  la  molestia, 
senor.  Tenga  listed  buen  viage  y vaya  muy  bien.” 
Please  to  pardon  the  molestation,  sir.  May  you  have 
a good  journey  and  be  prospered.  With  friendly  bows 
and  courteous  waving  of  hands  they  continued  for- 
ward. 

Las  Cuevas — The  Caves — is  a large,  easy-going 
agricultural  village  fifteen  miles  southeast  of  Parral 
and  near  the  Durango  state  line.  Here  my  little  fam- 
ily stayed  with  me  a few  months  while  our  adobe 
church  was  being  erected.  The  house  we  occupied  was 
commodious  and  convenient  to  the  church,  but  not  re- 
markable in  the  way  of  elegance  or  comfort.  It  was 
built  long  before  the  village  of  which  it  is  now  a part 
and  is  one  of  those  rarely  interesting  old  ranch  com- 
pounds still  encountered  here  and  there,  relics  of  the 
past  century.  It  is  surrounded  by  an  immense  adobe 
wall,  which  encloses,  with  the  house,  a yard  of  ample 
dimensions.  Into  one  corner  of  this  wall  was  built  a 
massive  circular  tower,  designed  as  outlook  and  for 
defence  against  brigands  and  Apaches.  The  tower  is 
still  intact  and  apparently  might  stand  the  storms  of 
another  century.  The  lookout  at  the  top  still  com- 
mands a wide  sweep  of  surrounding  mesa,  mountains, 
fields,  and  river.  There  are  the  loopholes  through 
which  muskets  long  ago  were  aimed — perhaps  not 
only  in  the  long  ago,  for  not  two  generations  have 
passed  since  the  Apaches  were  a scourge  to  all  north- 


HOW  RANCHERS  BUILT  CHURCH  79 


western  Mexico.  Only  some  thirty-five  years  have 
elapsed  since  the  still  remaining  bands  were  rounded 
up  or  finally  dispersed  by  the  government  troops. 

The  Las  Cuevas  mission  church  originated,  as  did 
that  in  Zaragoza,  through  the  activity  of  converts.  A 
member  of  the  Parral  congregation,  formerly  of  Las 
Cuevas,  returned  there  for  private  talks  with  his  old 
neighbours.  After  a few  such  visits  he  took  the  mis- 
sionary with  him.  Comparatively  little  opposition  was 
experienced.  Our  first  public  meeting  was  a gather- 
ing of  honest  farmer-folk  interested  to  learn  more  of 
a purer  form  of  Christianity.  The  church  member- 
ship increased  steadily.  It  included  the  capable  village 
president,  his  sweet  young  wife,  and  other  leading 
families  of  the  place.  The  rented  room  soon  failed  to 
accommodate  the  growing  congregations,  and  the  prop- 
osition to  erect  a church  building  was  received  with 
enthusiasm.  Little  cash  could  be  raised  in  the  com- 
munity, little  outside  help  could  be  expected.  But  we 
could  make  our  own  adobes — thirty  thousand  of 
them.  We  could  get  out  our  own  pillars  and 
roof  timbers  from  the  near-by  mountains.  We 
had  carpenters,  masons,  and  all  other  necessary 
workmen  in  the  church  itself.  The  missionary 
accepted  a place  on  the  building  committee  and 
had  his  hand  (if  not  his  foot)  in  about  every- 
thing from  start  to  finish.  The  lot  abounded  in 
good  adobe  material,  and  when  our  “ bee  ” came  to- 
gether one  morning  there  was  “ something  doing  ” ! 
As  Mexico  is  largely  built  of  sun-dried  brick,  my 
readers  may  as  well  understand  how  they  are  made. 


80  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


With  picks  and  shovels  some  begin  loosening  the  grav- 
elly clay.  Others  throw  on  water.  How  the  great 
hoes  swing ! The  boys  bring  straw,  which  is  sprinkled 
upon  the  mixture,  and  then  the  young  men,  with  legs 
bare  to  the  hips,  plunge  into  the  sticky  mass  with  a 
shout,  and  tread,  and  shout,  and  tread,  and  tread,  until 
the  now  finely  mixed  mud  is  ready  for  the  moulds. 
Meanwhile,  others  of  the  crew  have  been  busy  smooth- 
ing off  a great  space  of  level  ground,  and  the  mud- 
carrying commences.  A quantity  of  the  well-mixed 
dope  is  thrown  on  a small  platform  built  upon  two 
light  poles,  which  two  men  bear  between  them,  going 
at  Indian  trot  from  mud  pile  to  drying  field.  Here 
are  the  moulds — wooden  frames — each  for  a pair  of 
adobes,  size  io  by  20  by  4 inches.  The  frames,  lying 
upon  the  smoothed  ground,  are  filled  with  mud,  the 
top  surface  being  deftly  trimmed  off  even  with  the 
frame.  This  is  then  gently  lifted,  leaving  the  great 
smooth  cakes  to  bake  in  the  sun.  There  are  no  drones 
here  to-day,  or  any  need  of  the  taskmaster’s  lash. 
Steadily  goes  the  digging,  the  water-bringing,  and  the 
mixing  of  the  straw.  The  hoes  keep  swinging  and 
the  brown  legs  treading,  while  the  carriers  keep  trot- 
ting, and  the  fine,  fresh  adobes  already  make  an  impos- 
ing show  upon  the  field.  In  a few  days  they  will  be 
turned  up  on  edge,  and  in  a couple  of  weeks  they  will 
be  sufficiently  dry  to  cord  up.  In  the  piles  they  should 
further  season  before  going  into  the  building. 

I started  to  tell  how  little  our  church  enterprise 
depended  upon  cash  contributions.  The  expedition  to 
the  mountains  in  quest  of  timber  was  at  once  a delight- 


HOW  RANCHERS  BUILT  CHURCH  81 


ful  pleasure  excursion  and  a successful  business  trip, 
yielding  the  desired  quantity  of  select  pine  poles  with- 
out the  outlay  of  a dime.  The  most  competent  master 
mason  of  all  the  region  was  a genial  deacon  of  our 
church,  under  whose  direction  the  massive  walls  arose. 
Both  roof  and  floors  were  of  adobe  mud,  so  excellently 
placed  and  so  thoroughly  finished  as  to  almost  rival  in 
service  and  appearance  the  baked  tiles. 

There  were  no  stained-glass  windows,  nor,  indeed, 
glass  of  any  kind,  but  in  its  place  white  native  cotton 
was  tightly  stretched,  admitting  the  light  and  exclud- 
ing the  dust.  The  building  was  finished  in  four 
months.  It  exceeded  in  capacity  and  attractiveness 
the  Roman  church  and  soon  drew  larger  congregations 
than  that.  Families  from  outlying  ranches  became 
regular  attendants.  In  the  absence  of  the  missionary 
or  other  minister,  services  were  conducted  by  resident 
brethren,  a number  of  whom  were  quite  capable  in 
leadership.  Good  American  friends  provided  an  or- 
gan, and  a bright  senorita  learned  to  play  it.  A day- 
school  was  established  for  the  children,  and  this  oc- 
cupied a portion  of  the  building.  One  promising 
youth  from  the  community  was  sent  to  our  Mission 
Training  School,  then  at  El  Paso.  Was  the  enter- 
prise in  Las  Cuevas  worth  while?  Our  people 
thought  it  the  greatest  thing  which  ever  came  to  the 
region. 

As  the  mission  work  developed,  more  and  more 
time  was  devoted  to  touring.  As  before  mentioned, 
my  family,  or  at  least  one  of  the  youngsters,  often 
accompanied  me.  Among  our  most  pleasurable  ex- 


82  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICAN 

periences  were  the  days  upon  the  road  together.  It 
was  a picnic  for  the  children  and  a recreation  for 
their  parents.  There  were  famous  camping  places 
for  lunch  and  rest  by  the  way,  or  for  stopping  at 
night,  under  the  wild  olive  trees,  or  the  grateful  shade 
of  cottonwoods  or  giant  mesquites.  The  ranchers  on 
all  the  roads  were  friendly,  as  gifts  of  a lamb,  or 
other  pets  to  the  children  testified.  On  certain  routes 
were  “ rabbit  towns,”  so  named  by  the  little  ones 
because  of  the  multitudes  of  these  animals  invariably 
encountered  in  those  sections.  Coyotes  were  often 
seen,  as  were  quails,  road-runners,  snipes,  ducks,  and 
other  game-fowl.  Occasionally  a storm  added  excite- 
ment to  the  trip. 

The  rainy  season  usually  sets  in  the  last  of  June, 
but  there  are  years  when  there  comes  a violent  down- 
pour in  May,  as  was  the  case  one  spring  when  I was 
on  the  road,  having  as  companion  our  little  son,  then 
aged  five.  It  had  been  raining  heavily  in  the  moun- 
tains, but  not  in  our  vicinity.  On  reaching  one  of 
those  “ dry  runs  ” which  abound  in  Mexico,  I was 
surprised  to  find  a muddy  stream  of  considerable 
width.  As  it  was  yet  neither  swift  nor  deep,  I at 
once  undertook  to  drive  across.  Having  proceeded 
without  difficulty  some  two  hundred  feet  and  being 
near  the  other  side,  the  river  suddenly  seemed  to  rise, 
as  if  by  an  oncoming  wave.  In  a moment  the  buggy 
was  overturned,  spilling  us  into  the  yellow  flood. 
Grasping  the  lad  with  one  hand,  I struggled  for  the 
shore,  which  was  reached  in  safety.  The  horse  was 
also  at  the  brink — still  upon  his  feet — but  so  severe 


Mexican  Laundry 


HOW  RANCHERS  BUILT  CHURCH  83 


was  the  strain  of  the  overturned  vehicle,  and  so 
abrupt  the  bank  at  this  point,  that  he  was  unable  to 
emerge  until  disconnected.  This  having  been  done, 
the  buggy  swiftly  rolled  downstream,  until  caught 
by  some  friendly  bushes.  In  the  course  of  an  hour  it 
was  recovered — minus  its  top! — and  we  proceeded  on 
our  way,  now  in  the  furious  rain.  Among  the  many 
articles  swept  away  from  us  was  my  pocketbook,  con- 
taining thirty  Mexican  dollar  bills.  In  spite  of  his 
ducking,  the  lad  had  not  uttered  a word  of  complaint; 
on  the  contrary,  he  was  in  a cheery  mood.  He  had 
momentarily  grieved  at  the  disappearance  of  our 
luncheon,  but  on  the  discovery  of  the  money’s  loss, 
he  remarked  consolingly : “ Oh,  they  will  get  that 
where  the  river  comes  out ! ” On  one  short  trip  this 
same  boy  and  his  younger  sister  were  beside  me  on 
the  seat.  Mixed  flocks  of  sheep  and  goats  are  fre- 
quently seen,  and  we  found  ourselves  driving  along- 
side one  of  those  great  moving  masses.  Naturally, 
the  children  were  interested,  but  who  would  have 
imagined  the  suggestion  the  sight  would  bring  to  the 
mind  of  a five-year-old  lad?  Turning  to  his  little 
sister  he  solemnly  remarked,  “ Martina,  do  you  know 
that  all  those  goats  are  going  to  hell ! ” 

Speaking  of  wild  game,  the  mountains  of  Mexico 
abound  in  deer,  which  are  entirely  unprotected  by 
game  laws.  Bears  are  encountered,  as  are  wolves, 
mountain  lions,  and  wild  cats,  but  better  than  these 
are  the  wild  turkeys,  which  are  abundant  in  some 
sections. 


XI 


FROM  PARRAL  TO  THE  CAPITAL 

WE  did  not  see  Mexico  City  until  1893.  Does 
it  seem  strange  that  we  should  reside  so 
many  years  in  the  country  we  loved  before 
visiting  its  famous  capital?  Few  realize  that  it  is  a 
thousand  miles  from  Chihuahua  to  Mexico  City.  If 
the  republic  is  comparatively  a small  one,  it  is  well 
to  know  that  its  area  is  more  than  that  of  Great 
Britain,  Germany,  France,  and  Spain  combined.  All 
of  these  countries  could  be  laid  down  in  Mexico,  and 
there  would  still  be  room  for  more  than  half  of  New 
England ! 

Our  journey  south  on  the  Mexican  railway  occu- 
pied two  days,  and  we  passed  through  many  important 
places.  At  Zacatecas  we  crossed  the  Tropic  of  Cancer, 
so  were  within  the  Torrid  Zone;  but  the  air  was  good 
and  frosty  because  of  the  altitude  of  more  than  seven 
thousand  feet.  This  is  one  of  the  important  cities  of 
Mexico.  Its  population  is  sixty  thousand,  and  it  is  fa- 
mous for  its  silver  mines.  The  town  lies  in  a deep  valley 
hidden  from  view  at  the  railway  station,  but  it  pre- 
sented a rarely  interesting  sight  from  the  car  window 
as  the  train  moved  south.  The  Presbyterians  have  a 
strong  mission  here  and  a well-organized  work  in 
the  surrounding  region,  including  in  all  more  than 
a thousand  communicants. 


84 


FROM  PARRAL  TO  THE  CAPITAL  85 


Aguas  Calientes  is  the  capital  of  the  state  of  the 
same  name.  These  words  signify  hot  waters,  and 
no  wonder!  The  road  crosses  a hot,  swift  stream 
and  the  picture  from  the  station  is  captivating.  Along 
a shady  avenue,  kneeling  at  the  edge  of  the  stream, 
we  saw  scores  of  washerwomen  contentedly  scrub- 
bing, sudsing,  and  wringing  their  clothes,  for  the 
river  bank  is  the  universal  washing-place  in  Mexico. 
Flat  stones  served  as  washboards.  All  the  bushes 
and  rocks  of  the  vicinity  were  decorated  with  clothes. 
And  the  bathers!  Children,  children  everywhere, 
with  skins  all  shades  of  brown.  Every  woman  had 
brought  her  tribe,  and,  judging  from  appearances, 
their  clothes  were  being  washed  “ while  they  waited  ” ! 
Hardly  out  of  view  were  bathers  other  than  children — 
while  we  were  told  that  numerous  private  baths  were 
in  constant  use.  It  is  not  surprising  that  the  infirm 
and  well,  the  poor  and  rich,  flock  here  from  near  and 
far.  The  traveller  notices  a most  agreeable  change 
of  climate,  the  descent  from  Zacatecas,  eighty  miles 
to  the  north,  being  fifteen  hundred  feet.  The  air  is 
summer-like.  Singing  birds  and  fragrant  flowers  are 
everywhere.  Tempting  tropical  ftuits,  cheaper  than 
one  ever  saw  them  before,  are  offered  at  the  station. 

The  Cumberland  Presbyterians  have  a mission 
among  the  thirty  thousand  population. 

The  train  skirts  the  eastern  edge  of  Jalisco,  a state 
having  one-third  the  area  of  Chihuahua  and  more 
than  three  times  its  number  of  people.  In  fact,  its 
nearly  one  million  inhabitants  make  it  the  most  popu- 
lous state  in  the  republic. 


86  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


The  rainfall  is  heavier  than  at  the  north.  The 
soil  is  even  richer,  and  the  climate — well,  it  would 
seem  that  paradise  could  produce  no  better.  While 
uncultivated  tracts  of  country  are  of  less  extent  than 
in  other  parts,  they  are  still  in  evidence.  But  there 
are  no  tropical  jungles,  neither  are  extensive  forests 
seen  on  this  table-land,  although  it  is  much  better 
wooded  than  farther  north.  The  giant  cacti  arrest 
attention.  Many  specimens  are  six  to  ten  inches  in 
diameter  and  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  or  more  in  height. 
Some  are  simply  great,  green  spiny  posts!  Others, 
a whole  family  of  posts!  Still  others  assume  curi- 
ously fantastic  shapes,  huge,  single  trunks  rising  a 
couple  of  yards,  then  branching  grotesquely^  into  a 
heavy  top.  Some  varieties  of  cactus  produce  such 
excellent  fruit  as  to  furnish  in  its  season  no  incon- 
siderable portion  of  the  poorer  people’s  diet. 

Oranges  abound  in  this  state,  as  also  bananas, 
avocados,  guavas,  mangoes,  and,  on  the  lower  levels, 
pineapples.  There  is  also  a tree-melon  of  which  the 
natives  are  fond,  though  it  is  said  that,  when  first 
opened,  it  “ emits  a smell  as  of  something  which 
ought  to  be  buried  ” ! 

Lagos,  a large  city  on  the  line,  has  been  especially 
intolerant  to  Protestant  propagandism.  Some  years 
ago,  I was  on  my  way  to  Guadalajara,  and  had  left 
the  train  at  this  point  for  the  then  necessary  stage 
ride  of  nearly  one  hundred  miles.  It  was  my  first 
trip  so  far  into  the  interior.  The  city  was  strange, 
and  I was  curious  to  know  if  any  Americans  were  to 
be  found  there,  or  any  Protestant  Mexicans  whose 


FROM  PARRAL  TO  THE  CAPITAL  87 


acquaintance  I might  make  in  the  few  hours  at  my 
disposal.  I could  find  no  trace  of  either. 

While  enjoying  a seat  on  the  lovely  plaza,  I fell 
in  with  some  young  boys,  who  civilly  replied  to  my 
questions.  “Are  there  any  Protestants  in  Lagos?” 
“ There  are  none.”  “ What  would  the  Lagos  peo- 
ple do  if  Protestants  should  come  here?”  “We 
would  drive  them  out,  or  burn  them ! ” They  were 
serious.  A neighbour  of  mine  in  Parral  was  driven 
from  this  city  for  refusing  to  uncover  his  head  before 
the  Host  as  it  was  solemnly  carried  in  street  pro- 
cession. 

At  one  side  of  the  plaza  in  Lagos  is  the  mag- 
nificent parish  church.  Few  cities,  even  of  much 
larger  size,  in  the  United  States,  can  boast  of  so  im- 
posing a structure.  Its  massive  stone  walls  and  lofty 
towers  of  the  same  enduring  material  inspire  profound 
respect.  Yet,  as  one  reflects  on  the  quality  of  the 
religion  represented,  respectful  admiration  is  mingled 
with  sorrow.  I obtained  permission  to  climb  one  of 
the  towers,  and  once  in  the  roomy  belfry,  far  above 
the  highest  trees,  the  interesting  outlook  may  be  im- 
agined. As  I gazed  down  upon  the  flat-roofed  dwell- 
ings, saw  the  people  in  their  open  courts  and  passing 
through  the  narrow  streets,  a novel  effort  of  evan- 
gelization was  suggested  to  me.  My  pockets  were 
filled  with  attractive  Spanish  leaflets.  A fine  breeze 
was  sweeping  through  the  tower.  Taking  a package 
of  the  leaflets,  one  by  one  I gave  them  to  the  wind 
and  watched  them  fly  away  with  their  messages. 
Some  lodged  upon  the  housetops,  but  others  entered 


88  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


the  courts  to  the  living  apartments.  Many  fell  in 
the  streets  and  were  picked  up  by  passers-by.  I ob- 
served persons  looking  upward  to  discover  the  source 
of  the  falling  leaves,  and  it  occurred  to  me  that  the 
sender  of  the  missives  might  properly  efface  himself 
and  let  the  good  seed  do  its  own  work.  The  sun  was 
setting.  There  had  been  a dim  light  in  the  winding 
stairway  when  I ascended,  but  it  was  now  in  total 
darkness,  and  I was  obliged  to  feel  my  way  down  the 
seemingly  interminable  stone  steps.  As  I neared  what 
must  surely  be  the  bottom  of  the  tower,  I peered  in 
vain  for  the  light  of  the  open  door  by  which  I had 
entered.  At  last  I bumped  against  it  and  found  it — 
closed  and  barred ! The  thought  flashed  upon  me, 
“ Notice  of  the  leaflets  has  been  given  to  the  church 
authorities.  They  have  been  pronounced  heretical. 
Their  origin  has  been  discovered.  I am  a prisoner 
and  in  this  stone  tower  I am  to  pass  the  night.  What 
of  to-morrow?  ” Yet,  not  fully  admitting  this  plausi- 
ble and  disquieting  suggestion,  I ventured  to  knock — 
with  the  result  that  the  door  was  presently  opened  by 
the  courteous  janitor,  who  was  surprised  to  learn  that 
the  American  visitor  was  still  within. 

Passing  the  populous  manufacturing  city  of  Leon, 
one  comes  to  Silao,  where  passengers  for  the  city  of 
Guanajuato  take  the  branch  line  for  that  famous 
mining  centre  and  state  capital.  I once  spent  a 
delightful  day  there,  but  no  description  of  my 
own  can  equal  that  given  by  a lady,  from  which 
I quote : * 

♦Travels  in  Mexico — Reau  Campbell,  p.  85. 


FROM  PARRAL  TO  THE  CAPITAL  89 


“ Quaintest  spot  and  most  delightful  under  the  sun ! 
The  little  city  of  Guanajuato — may  its  name  be 
written  in  letters  of  gold ! — has  succeeded  in  charming 
away  the  few  remaining  senses  which  this  enchanting 
Mexico  has  left  us.  A city  upon  the  mountains,  a 
fortified  place  set  upon  the  side  of  heights  so  steep 
that  the  houses  seem  to  be  fastened  to  the  rock  rather 
than  resting  upon  it,  and  a misstep  on  the  dizzy  upper- 
most level  of  the  narrow,  steep  streets  would  precipi- 
tate the  unlucky  one  into  the  midst  of  some  plaza 
three  or  four  hundred  feet  below.  A lovely,  bewilder- 
ing spot,  full  of  lanes  and  archways  and  winding, 
twisting  market-places,  with  a crowd  of  picturesque 
people  selling  every  oddity  under  the  sun  under  a 
screen  of  matting;  with  a crossing,  an  interlacing  of 
narrow  paved  ways  which  give  at  every  ten  steps  the 
effects  of  a kaleidoscope  with  a vista  of  infinite  beauty 
and  novelty  at  every  turning.” 

The  Guanajuato  silver  mines  have  produced  fabu- 
lous quantities  of  the  white  metal.  One  fortunate 
miner,  when  his  son  was  christened,  paved  the  sixty 
yards  of  street  from  his  house  to  the  church  with 
silver  bars,  for  the  procession  to  pass  over.  From 
the  government  mint  located  here  come  millions  of 
silver  pesos,  which  circulate  not  only  throughout 
Mexico,  but  in  China  and  other  parts  of  the  far  East. 
Guanajuato  has  a population  of  seventy  thousand, 
among  which  the  American  Presbyterian  and  Meth- 
odist Episcopal  churches  maintain  missions.  The 
latter  has  a splendid  hospital  and  training-school  for 
nurses. 

At  Irapuato,  where  the  branch  road  leaves  for 
Guadalajara,  especially  attractive  fruit  may  be  of- 


90  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


fered.  A score  or  more  of  boys  and  girls,  old  women 
and  men,  come  flocking  about  the  train  as  it  pulls  into 
the  station,  thrusting  small  baskets  before  the  win- 
dows and  crying,  “Fresas!  fresas!"  Strawberries, 
yes,  and  deliciously  sweet  ones — not  commonly  seen 
in  northern  Mexico.  You  buy  quaint  basket  and  all, 
and  congratulate  yourself  on  your  bargain,  pick  off 
a few  top  berries,  and  discover  almost  directly  beneath 
a huge  cabbage  leaf,  convex  side  up;  a novel  way, 
as  some  one  has  said,  of  locating  the  bottom  of  the 
basket  near  the  top.  It  is  said  that  every  day  in  the 
year  passenger  trains  here  are  greeted  by  the  berry 
venders. 

No  visitor  to  Mexico  should  fail  to  see  Guadalajara, 
the  famous  “ Pearl  of  the  Occident,”  and  capital  of 
Jalisco.  It  is  one  of  the  three  first  cities  of  the 
republic,  rivalling  Puebla  for  second  place  with  the 
Mexican  capital.  The  population  is  a little  above 
one  hundred  thousand.  Guadalajara  is  distinguished 
for  its  refinement,  its  notable  cathedral,  its  religious 
and  medical  schools  and  its  wonderful  potteries.  The 
American  Colony  is  (ordinarily)  large,  and  occupies 
its  own  beautiful  quarter  of  the  city. 

No  visitor  passes  through  Queretaro  without  a feel- 
ing of  sympathy  for  Maximilian,  whose  execution 
took  place  here  in  1867.  The  Austrian  prince  was 
misled  into  the  belief  that  his  empire  would  be  accepta- 
ble to  the  Mexican  people.  On  that  little  hill  yonder 
he  faced  the  firing  squad  and  his  last  words  were, 
“ Viva  Mexico!  ” 

Queretaro  is  at  an  altitude  of  six  thousand  feet. 


FROM  PARRAL  TO  THE  CAPITAL  91 


The  immense  Mexican  plateau  lies  between  the  Sierra 
Madre  of  the  east  and  the  more  important  range  bearing 
the  same  name  near  the  west  coast.  At  the  north  these 
Cordilleras  are  more  than  four  hundred  miles  apart. 
The  altitude  at  El  Paso  is  slightly  more  than  three 
thousand  feet  and  the  rise  is  gradual,  although  irregu- 
lar, toward  the  south.  Before  reaching  Mexico  City 
the  train  climbs  to  nearly  ten  thousand  feet  above  sea 
level,  but  descends  again  to  seven  thousand  five 
hundred. 

This  trip  in  daylight  awakens  unbounded  enthusi- 
asm. Especially  fascinating  are  the  first  glimpses, 
obtained  through  the  mountain  gorges,  of  the  glorious 
valley  of  Mexico,  and  finally  of  the  old  capital  itself. 


XII 


IN  MEXICO  CITY 

ONE  thousand  years  ago — according  to  best 
tradition — the  Toltec  kingdom  was  in  its 
glory;  it  is  believed  to  have  been  destroyed  in 
the  twelfth  century,  having  stood  four  hundred  and 
fifty  years. 

While  the  Aztecs  were  not  the  immediate  successors 
of  the  Toltecs,  it  is  evident  that  much  in  their  remark- 
able civilization  was  due  to  the  older  people. 

The  Aztecs  arrived  in  the  valley  of  Mexico  early  in 
the  fourteenth  century,  and  were  the  founders  of  that 
ancient  Mexican  empire,  the  remains  of  whose 
capital — their  first-built  city — lie  beneath  the  present 
metropolis. 

My  description  of  the  famous  metropolis  shall  be  of 
its  peace  period  and  as  we  saw  it  during  our  visit 
of  1893. 

The  city  has  changed  since  the  days  of  Cortez  and 
Montezuma.  It  is  not  now  the  New  World  Venice 
whose  streets  were  canals  and  whose  connections  with 
the  mainland  were  boats  and  causeways.  Modern 
Mexico  occupies  the  identical  ground  of  the  ancient 
city,  but  in  the  four  hundred  years  since  Montezuma’s 
time  the  waters  have  receded  until  the  nearest  shore 
of  Lake  Texcoco  is  three  miles  distant.  Notwith- 

92 


IN  MEXICO  CITY 


93 


standing  all  the  changes,  one  is  pleased  to  learn  that 
the  old  capital  still  counts  among  its  dwellers  many 
Aztecs  as  pure  in  blood  as  the  old-time  defenders  of 
Anahuac.  Yet  one  cannot  believe  them  as  red-blooded 
as  those  who  drove  the  invading  Spaniard  from  their 
city  and  gave  Cortez  that  memorable  noche  triste 
(sad  night). 

The  Indians,  of  various  tribes,  encountered  here 
are  a thoroughly  subject  and  seemingly  degenerate 
people,  occupying  the  lowest  stratum  in  the  social 
make-up,  servants,  street-labourers,  venders  of  toys 
and  curios.  It  is  interesting  to  learn,  however,  that 
Aztecs  still  dwell  in  this  valley  who  have  through  all 
these  years  kept  themselves  more  apart  from  the 
conquering  race.  These  speak  a language  believed  to 
be  substantially  that  of  their  fathers.  They  are  of 
more  independent  spirit  and  proud  of  their  ancestry. 

Of  this  city  I can  hardly  attempt  a description;  but 
let  the  reader  imagine  himself  in  our  company  to-day 
and  we  will  show  him  some  things  that  have  inter- 
ested us. 

The  morning  is  cool.  Were  we  to  ride,  rather  than 
walk,  it  would  be  wise  to  take  our  overcoats;  but 
long  before  noon  they  would  be  a burden.  Still,  the 
heat  is  not  excessive,  the  temperature  never  passing 
ninety  degrees  and  rarely  reaching  eighty  degrees  in 
the  shade.  Let  us  go  first  to  the  centre  of  things — 
the  Plaza  Mayor.  On  the  north  side  is  the  cathedral, 
a remarkable  building.  Its  site  is  about  that  of  the 
Aztec  Temple  of  Sacrifice,  where  unknown  thousands 
of  handsome  Indian  youths  were  offered  to  the  god 


94  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


of  war.  The  first  stone  of  the  cathedral  was  laid  in 
1573.  It  was  dedicated  in  1667,  the  towers  were 
completed  in  1791.  Its  dimensions  are  387  by  177 
feet  and  the  interior  height  is  179  feet.  Its  cost  was 
approximately  $2,000,000.  On  the  entire  American 
continent  there  are  few  edifices  of  equal  magnificence 
and  interest.  Suppose  we  climb  the  right  belfry 
tower,  going  slowly,  lest  we  get  out  of  breath.  Every 
step  brings  us  nearer  heaven.  Now  look! — first  on  the 
mountains  encircling  the  famous  valley  of  Mexico, 
glorious  under  the  morning  sun.  Two  thousand 
square  miles  lie  before  our  eyes.  See  the  suburban 
pueblos  and  villas:  to  the  north  is  the  line  of  the 
Mexican  Central  Railway;  to  the  west,  the  Mexican 
National  leaves  the  city;  to  the  northeast  the  Vera 
Cruz  trains  are  running,  and  to  the  southeast  is  the 
Inter-oceanic  road. 

You  perceive  that  the  valley  is  not  a level  plain,  but 
contains  numerous  lakes  and  imposing  hills.  Three 
miles  to  the  east  gleams  the  broad  expanse  of  Lake 
Texcoco,  connected  with  the  city  by  a canal.  An- 
other canal  stretches  to  the  south  connecting  the  cap- 
ital with  Lake  Xochimilco.  Flanking  this  canal  are 
the  far-famed  “ Floating  Gardens.”  If  they  ever 
floated,  they  are  now  fast  on  the  shoals  of  the  one- 
time lake,  which  is  still  so  near  the  surface  that  the 
gardeners  reach  all  their  plats  by  waterways.  There 
are  many  miles  of  these  intersecting  canals,  quite  nar- 
row and  separated  only  by  the  great  beds  of  vegetables. 
With  the  richest  of  soil,  abundance  of  water,  a vertical 
sun,  and  patient  labour,  one  is  not  surprised  at  the  pro- 


IN  MEXICO  CITY 


95 


digious  output  of  these  gardens,  from  which  every 
day  of  the  twelve  months  come  boats  laden  with 
supplies  for  the  city  markets. 

It  is  not  difficult  to  believe  that  the  City  of  Mexico 
was  at  one  time  surrounded  by  water,  at  least  during 
certain  periods.  The  valley  has  no  natural  outlet  and 
seasons  of  exceptional  rainfall  have  repeatedly  caused 
alarming  inundations.  So  serious  were  these  in  the 
first  centuries  following  the  Spanish  occupation  that 
a change  of  site  for  the  capital  was  more  than  once 
considered,  but  finally  abandoned  in  the  attempt  to 
drain  the  district.  For  this  project  enormous  sums 
were  expended,  the  efforts  extending  over  a period 
of  two  hundred  and  fifty  years,  but  without  success 
until  American  engineers  took  hold  of  it. 

What  a view  below  us — a checkerboard  of  broad, 
flat  roofs  and  deep  street  lines,  set  here  and  there 
with  picturesque  towers  and  resplendent  domes,  repre- 
senting some  seventy  church  edifices,  all  of  the  Roman 
faith.  At  our  left  rises  majestically  the  National 
Government  Palace.  There  is  the  National  Museum, 
the  Mint,  the  Monte  de  Piedad,  a famous  government- 
controlled  pawnshop,  sometimes  styled  “ Uncle  of  the 
impecunious  Mexican.”  Here  is  the  Bazaar,  whose 
numerous  portales  attract  a constant  stream  of  sight- 
seers and  shoppers.  The  great  plaza  far  below  and 
directly  beneath  us  holds  the  eye  as  with  a spell. 
Street  cars  are  continually  arriving  and  departing, 
fine  carriages  and  two-wheeled  carts  are  passing.  And 
what  throngs  of  pedestrians!  Merchant  princes  and 
beggars,  silk-hatted  representatives  and  scantily 


96  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


clothed  peons,  important  policemen  and  tipsy  pulque 
drinkers. 

" Some  in  rags  and  some  in  shags, 

And  some  in  velvet  gown.” 

But  from  our  viewpoint  all  are  Lilliputians. 

A foreign  tenderfoot  may  have  difficulty  in  making 
his  way  through  those  plaza  crowds,  as  well  as  by 
the  swarming  portales  and  market-places.  At  the 
very  entrance  of  the  cathedral  an  eager  lottery  agent 
cries,  “ Only  a dollar  and  a great  fortune  may  be 
yours.”  On  the  street  a Queretaro  opal  merchant 
thrusts  his  tempting  collection  before  your  eyes.  The 
stones  are  beautiful,  and  genuine,  for  here  they  are 
so  plentiful  and  so  moderate  in  price  that  imitations 
are  not  worth  while.  Better  invest  for  friends  at 
home;  at  one-half  his  first-named  prices  you  may 
finally  take  your  choice. 

Here  is  a brown,  barefooted  flower  girl,  black-eyed, 
beseeching.  Those  lovely  violets  are  only  three  cents 
a bunch.  This  other  girl  has  roses : for  six  cents 
she  gives  you  a handful.  “ Muchas  gracias,  sehor.” — 
Many  thanks,  sir.  Look  here!  This  Indian  has  his 
arms  full  of  canes ! He  looks  as  primitive  as  his  fore- 
fathers. The  walking  sticks  are  curiously  carved,  at- 
tractively tinted,  and  bear  in  cunningly  cut  letters  the 
legend  “Mexico.”  The  bargaining  is  highly  satis- 
factory to  us  all. 

The  second-hand  market  is  interesting.  “ Thieves’ 
Market,”  it  is  called,  and  doubtless  most  of  the  articles 
found  here  were  stolen.  Some  of  these  traffic  places 


IN  MEXICO  CITY 


97 


cover  the  space  of  an  entire  block,  where  scores  of 
second-hand  men  are  assigned  trading  locations  under 
municipal  supervision.  The  dealers  are  as  poor  as  the 
articles  they  deal  in.  Everything  is  arrayed  upon  the 
ground,  with  only  an  occasional  box  or  shelf.  The 
universe  seems  to  have  been  ransacked  for  oddities, 
yet  nothing  under  the  sun  “ common  or  unclean  ” is 
wanting ! There  is  a general  similarity  in  assortments, 
but  some  are  more  extensive  than  others.  The  fol- 
lowing, which  I quote  from  the  man  who  took  the 
stock,  is  unusually  small : 

i sickle;  3 electrotypes;  1 jewelry  case;  1 monkey 
wrench;  2 crosses;  1 set  of  teeth;  1 sofa;  1 bung- 
starter;  6 balls  twine;  1 book;  1 guitar;  a quart  of 
nails;  3 tape  measures;  1 hoopskirt;  a mouse-trap, 
and  a bouquet. 

Pulque  is  the  Mexican  national  drink  and  is  the 
fermented  juice  of  the  maguay,  or  century  plant. 
Every  morning  pulque  trains  arrive  from  the  suburbs. 
The  liquor  is  distributed  among  the  thousand  and  one 
pulque  shops  of  the  city;  there  dispensed  and  con- 
sumed, producing  intoxication.  To  some  extraordi- 
nary brain  stimulation  may  be  attributed  the  names 
of  many  pulque  resorts;  on  one  shop  front  in  im- 
mense letters  you  read,  " Una  Noche  de  Deleite” — A 
night  of  delight.  Across  the  road  is  another,  " El 
Septimo  Cielo  ” — The  seventh  heaven.  Other  names 
encountered  are,  “El  Triunfo  del  Diablo” — The 
devil’s  triumph;  “La  Cola  del  Diablo  Rojo” — The 
tail  of  the  red  devil;  “El  Ultimo  Esfuerzo ” — 


98  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


The  last  effort.*  Just  what  is  the  idea  in  this  last  one  I 
leave  to  you.  Even  such  sacrilegious  titles  as  the 
following  are  found  over  pulque  dens:  “El  Retiro  de 
Juan  Bautista” — The  Retreat  of  John  the  Baptist; 
“ El  Retiro  del  Espiritu  Santo  ” — The  Retreat  of  the 
Holy  Spirit;  “El  Retiro  de  la  Santa  Virgen ” — The 
Retreat  of  the  Holy  Virgin. 

As  in  all  Mexican  cities,  here  also  are  found  queer 
names  of  streets,  as,  “Street  of  the  Lost  Child”; 
“ Street  of  the  Sad  Indian  ” ; “ Holy  Ghost  Street  ” ; 
“ Blood  of  Christ  Street  ” ; “ Crown  of  Thorns 
Street”;  “Mother  of  Sorrows  Street.”  There  is  a 
lane  called  “ Callcjon  del  Raton  ” — Lane  of  the  Mouse 
and  another  so  narrow  that  it  has  received  the  sobri- 
quet, "Sal,  si  puedes” — Get  through,  if  you  can! 

As  to  cleanliness,  the  less  said  about  some  quarters 
of  the  city  the  better.  In  certain  localities  the  odours 
are  neither  few,  feeble,  nor  far  between,  and  no  small 
variety  may  be  encountered  in  a morning’s  walk.  A 
lady  friend  having  occasion  to  drive  through  such  a 
district,  passed  in  discreet  silence  many  offensive  airs 
only  to  remark  at  last  with  vigour,  “ Enough ! This 
is  the  thirty-second  variety  of  smell  since  I began  to 
count.” 

But  Mexico  has  charmingly  attractive  streets,  as 
the  Calle  de  San  Francisco,  where  are  most  handsome 
stores,  stately  hotels,  and  splendid  private  residences. 
The  Paseo  de  la  Reforma,  which  leads  to  the  Castle 
of  Chapultepec,  is  a boulevard  of  which  any  city  in 
the  New  World  or  the  Old  would  be  proud.  It  is 
five  hundred  feet  wide,  two  and  one-half  miles  long, 


IN  MEXICO  CITY 


99 


and  is  lined  by  double  rows  of  magnificent  trees,  be- 
neath which  are  promenades.  At  intervals  are  im- 
mense circles — glorietas — with  imposing  statues  in  the 
centre.  One,  of  Charles  IV  of  Spain,  was  declared 
by  Humboldt  to  have  but  one  superior  in  the  world.  It 
is  of  bronze  and  thirty  tons  of  metal  were  used  in  its 
casting.  This  avenue  of  almost  unparalleled  beauty  is 
the  work  of  Maximilian.  Passing  statues  of  Colum- 
bus, and  of  the  Aztec  emperor,  Cuatemoc,  we  ascend 
the  far-famed  hill  of  Chapultepec.  Here  is  a won- 
derful forest  of  cypresses,  the  trees  dating  back  at 
least  twenty  centuries.  Some  are  more  than  forty 
feet  in  circumference  and  nearly  two  hundred  feet 
high.  Tradition  says  that  the  Aztec  emperors  lived 
upon  this  hill.  We  know  that  it  was  the  home  of 
the  Spanish  viceroys,  and  later  this  castle — which  was 
begun  in  1783 — became  the  “White  House  of 
Mexico.” 

The  view  from  Chapultepec  is  unspeakably  glorious. 
Says  a one-time  visitor,  “ From  this  beautiful  spot 
one  looks  across  a valley  fair  as  a dream  of  paradise, 
with  soft  green  fields  and  waving  hedges  and  avenues 
of  lofty  trees  outlining  grey  country  roads  that  fade 
into  the  azure  distance.  In  faint  lines,  pale  blue 
mountains,  purple  sometimes  with  deep  shadow,  rest 
like  brooding  and  watchful  spirits  around  the  dim 
horizon;  and  farthest  of  all,  beautiful  with  that  sub- 
lime sense  of  remoteness  and  awfulness  which  belongs 
only  to  them,  the  solemn  presences  of  Popocatepetl 
and  Ixtaccihuatl  rise  like  radiant  clouds  against  the 
serene  heavens  above.  Everything  we  had  before 


100  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


known  of  mountain  scenery  becomes  secondary  in  the 
imagination  compared  with  these  wonderful  heights. 
The  great  serenity  of  the  plain,  the  soft  changing 
greens  which  cover  its  entire  extent,  and  the  undulat- 
ing, exquisite  line  of  hills,  like  the  frame  of  some 
rich  jewel,  is  something  unspeakable  when  contrasted 
with  the  grand  solitary  state  of  these  twin  monarchs 
who  dominate  them  all.  If  no  more  loveliness  than 
this  view  can  give  were  added  to  one’s  inner  life,  the 
journey  to  Mexico  would  be  fully  requited.” 

There  are  four  perpetually  snow-capped  mountains 
in  Mexico,  of  which  Popocatepetl  is  most  famed.  Its 
altitude  is  17,800  feet;  the  crater  is  5,000  feet  across 
and  1,000  feet  deep.  An  enterprising  Mexican  has 
now  undertaken  the  business  of  extracting  its  age-long 
accumulations  of  sulphur.  Cortez  at  one  time,  run- 
ning short  of  gunpowder,  despatched  men  here  on  the 
same  errand.  Many  tourists  make  the  ascent. 

The  National  Museum  houses  a vast  collection  of 
Mexican  antiquities.  The  Aztec  relics — a remarkable 
assemblage — are  quite  modern  in  comparison  with 
others  belonging  to  prehistoric  races  of  a far  distant 
past.  The  famous  Aztec  Calendar  Stone,  which  was 
unearthed  when  levelling  the  ground  for  paving  the 
Plaza  Mayor  one  hundred  years  ago,  was  a most  ex- 
traordinary “ find,”  testifying  to  a higher  civilization 
than  the  Aztecs  were  considered  to  have  attained.  In 
size  the  stone  is  impressive,  its  diameter  being  eleven 
feet  and  eight  inches  and  its  weight  more  than  twenty 
tons. 

The  Sacrificial  Stone  is  scarcely  less  mighty,  and  is 


IN  MEXICO  CITY 


101 


grimly  fascinating  as  one  pictures  the  horrors  once 
enacted  upon  it.  That  bowl-like  cavity  in  the  centre 
was  chiselled  out  to  collect  the  blood  of  the  victims, 
and  from  that  to  the  border  runs  the  canal  for  carry- 
ing away  the  overflow.  Enough  is  known  of  the  Aztec 
religion  to  warrant  the  belief  that  more  than  one 
hundred  thousand  Indian  youths  were  immolated  upon 
this  very  stone.  On  days  of  special  religious  celebra- 
tion, long  processions  of  intended  victims  were 
marched  to  their  sacrifice.  For  many  hours  together 
human  blood  flowed  in  a constant  stream,  and  hearts 
just  torn  from  human  breasts  were  offered  to  the 
hideous  god  of  war.  Beside  its  Sacrificial  Stone 
is  the  statue  of  that  same  stone  god,  Huitzilopochtli, 
whose  propitiation  was  sought  at  such  tremendous 
costs.  The  victims  were  captives  taken  in  war. 

Was  the  Aztec  religion  cruel?  They  did  not  so 
consider  it.  When  the  Spaniards  made  shocked  pro- 
testations against  the  practice  of  human  sacrifice,  the 
reply  was  that  to  slay  their  enemies  as  offerings  to 
their  god  was  no  worse  manner  of  death  than  to  slay 
them  in  any  other  way.  In  fact,  death  as  it  came 
upon  this  stone  was  almost  instantaneous.  Their 
religion  was  barbarous,  but  not  cruel. 

The  conquering  Spaniards  at  once  threw  down  the 
Aztec  temple,  abolishing  forever  its  shocking  rites; 
but  they  set  up  the  Inquisition  in  its  place.  Dr. 
William  Butler,  in  his  “ Mexico  in  Transition,”  tells 
that  workmen,  when  examining  the  foundations  of  an 
old  monastery  in  Puebla,  came  upon  a number  of 
secret  cells  in  the  solid  masonry,  each  cell  containing 


102  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


the  skeleton  of  an  Inquisition  victim.  Alive  and  in 
upright  position  these  Indians  had  been  sealed  in  by 
the  mason’s  hand  and  left  to  die!  The  horrors  of 
the  Inquisition  in  Mexico  are  not  generally  known. 
For  three  hundred  years  its  terrible  machinery  was 
in  operation  there.  The  last  victim  was  General  Jose 
Morelos,  who  was  burned  at  the  stake  in  1815. 

We  pass  hours  in  the  Museo  and  in  the  National 
Library,  coming  away  with  increased  respect  for  the 
Mexican  people  and  for  the  government  which  has 
made  these  magnificent  collections. 

Protestant  work  is  well  established  in  this  great 
strategic  centre.  The  churches,  day-schools,  colleges, 
Young  Men’s  Christian  Associations,  and  busy  print- 
ing presses  are  slowly,  but  effectively,  dissipating 
prejudices,  winning  confidence,  and  laying  the  founda- 
tions for  the  new  Christian  Mexico  which  is  to  be. 
There  is  abundance  of  room  for  the  various  denomina- 
tions which  are  labouring  in  such  splendid  coopera- 
tion for  the  coming  of  our  Lord’s  kingdom  in  this 
land. 


PART  SECOND 


IN  REVOLUTION 


/ 


I 


EL  VALLE  AND  LA  CASA  GRANDE 

ONE  of  the  most  famous  valleys  in  northwestern 
Mexico  is  the  Santa  Maria.  At  the  point 
where  General  Pershing’s  forces  crossed  this 
valley  in  their  chase  after  Villa  is  El  Valle  de  San 
Buenaventura,  the  largest  town  of  the  district.  It  is 
one  of  the  great  agricultural  villages  frequently  en- 
countered where  soil  is  fertile  and  water  abundant. 

The  population  of  four  thousand  is  made  up  largely 
of  middle-class  Mexicans,  home-loving,  industrious, 
strongly  attached  to  their  farms,  and  making  money 
from  their  cattle  which  fatten  on  the  slopes  of  the 
mountains  to  the  east  and  to  the  west. 

Before  the  revolution  this  valley  was  peaceful  and 
prosperous,  and  its  principal  town — everywhere  known 
as  “ El  Valle  ” — The  Valley — was  one  of  the  most 
attractive  in  the  entire  state.  Its  ideal  climate,  its 
abundant  fruit,  its  immense  crops  of  wheat,  its  grist- 
mills and  well-stocked  stores  were  noted  through  a 
wide  region.  El  Valle  wagons  laden  with  flour,  or 
peanuts,  or  magnificent  onions,  or  even  watermelons, 
might  often  be  seen  at  Guerrero,  a hundred  miles  to 
the  south,  or  at  Madera,  still  more  distant  to  the 
southwest. 

Even  in  its  most  prosperous  days  El  Valle  was  a 

106 


106  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


quiet  place,  for  its  nearest  railway  station  is  fifty 
miles  to  the  northwest.  The  mail  stages  used  to 
arrive  and  depart  three  times  a week.  On  various 
occasions  a passing  auto  caused  excitement  on  the 
streets,  and  at  times  the  appearance  of  a bicycle  re- 
minded one  of  the  outside  world. 

In  the  centre  of  the  rose  garden  at  the  plaza  is 
a band-stand,  where  on  Sundays  and  feast-days  ex- 
cellent music  was  dispensed.  On  national  holidays 
there  were  games  and  races  in  which  young  men  of  the 
best  families  participated,  and  the  cowboys  of  the 
Valley  performed  astonishing  stunts. 

The  municipal  school  for  boys  occupies  three  large 
rooms  in  the  rear  of  the  city  offices,  which  face  the 
plaza.  Three  blocks  away  is  the  girls’  school,  housed 
in  a neat  building  by  itself.  Both  these  schools  are 
equipped  with  modern  desks  imported  from  the 
United  States.  At  the  west  side  of  the  plaza  and 
fronting  the  city  offices  is  the  parish  church,  an  im- 
posing stone  and  adobe  edifice  whose  windowless 
walls  rise  to  more  than  double  the  height  of  all  the 
surrounding  buildings,  and  would  appear  like  a for- 
tress were  it  not  for  the  handsome  bell  tower  sur- 
mounted by  its  lofty  cross.  This  pink  stone  tower, 
thrusting  itself  far  above  all  the  trees  of  the  valley, 
is  a landmark  pointed  out  by  travellers  leagues  before 
their  arrival  in  the  city. 

On  another  street,  precisely  at  the  rear  of  the 
church,  and  looking  towards  it,  as  if  to  say,  “ Look 
out,  I am  coming ! ” is  a modest  Protestant  chapel. 
This  commodious  and  well-furnished  place  of  worship 


EL  VALLE  AND  LA  CASA  GRANDE  107 


has  a history  rare,  if  not  unique,  in  the  annals  of 
missions  in  Mexico.  The  Senor  Teofilo  Romero,  first 
convert  of  the  Valley,  had  been  prospered  in  his  har- 
vests. He  was  grateful  for  this,  but  more  particularly 
for  the  new  light  which  had  come  into  his  home. 

The  church — erected  entirely  at  his  own  expense 
and  adjoining  his  own  dwelling — was  an  expression 
of  his  gratitude.  Not  only  in  the  matter  of  building, 
but  in  all  that  concerned  the  new  congregation,  don 
Teofilo  was  the  leading  spirit  until  his  decease  a few 
years  ago.  His  large  and  remarkably  fine  family 
hold  steadfastly  to  the  faith,  and  in  the  absence  of  a 
minister  are  responsible  for  the  services. 

The  Santa  Maria  is  scarcely  two  hundred  miles  in 
length,  rising  in  the  mountains  at  the  south  and  dis- 
charging its  surplus  waters  into  a lagoon  seventy-five 
miles  north  of  El  Valle.  During  the  rainy  season  it 
is  often  a raging  flood,  uprooting  huge  cottonwoods 
along  its  bank;  but  for  six  months  of  the  year  its  en- 
tire flow  is  diverted  into  various  irrigating  ditches, 
which  are  the  life  of  the  land. 

El  Valle  is  five  thousand  three  hundred  feet  above 
the  sea.  Thirty  miles  up  the  valley  is  the  big  village 
of  Las  Cruces,  and  twenty  miles  beyond  is  Namiquipa, 
whose  population  of  two  thousand  is  scattered  along 
five  miles  of  the  river  bank.  Down  the  stream  is  the 
less  important  town  of  Galeana  and  across  the  divide 
beyond  the  Chocolate  Pass  to  the  northwest  are  the 
famous  ruins  of  Casas  Grandes.  Here  was  a city 
whose  builders,  with  all  their  race,  disappeared  evi- 
dently not  less  than  five  hundred  years  ago.  The  im- 


108  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


mense  sun-baked  clay  walls  which  still  tower  above  the 
mounds  show  a manner  of  construction  entirely  dis- 
tinct from  that  ever  in  use  by  Mexicans  or  present- 
day  Indians.  Many  extremely  interesting  relics  have 
been  taken  from  these  ruins,  but  as  yet  little  excava- 
tion has  been  made.  Numerous  other  mounds  and 
foundation  stones  encountered  here  and  there  over  a 
wide  region,  including  El  Valle,  give  evidence  of  a 
somewhat  numerous  tribe,  and  of  no  mean  civiliza- 
tion. Did  they  migrate  to  the  south  and  become 
merged  with  the  Toltecs  or  the  Aztecs?  So  tradition 
affirms. 

El  Valle  is  situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Santa 
Maria.  On  the  opposite  bank  is,  or  rather  was,  the 
great  hacienda  of  Dolores,  a tract  of  land  having  a 
frontage  of  three  miles  on  the  river  and  extending 
back  twelve  miles  to  the  highest  peaks  of  San  Miguel. 

About  the  year  1835  the  owner  began  to  build  him 
a new  house,  not  in  town,  but  on  the  property,  near 
the  river  and  a half-mile  downstream  from  the  city. 
The  house  was  of  adobe  and  it  was  planned  on  a 
magnificent  scale.  It  was  four-square,  each  exterior 
side  measuring  150  feet,  having,  of  course,  an  ex- 
tensive inner  court,  or  patio.  (As  will  be  understood, 
this  house,  had  it  been  built  on  one  line,  instead  of 
around  the  hollow  square,  would  have  measured  530 
feet  in  length  by  17  in  width.) 

In  this  extraordinary  building  there  were  apart- 
ments for  the  proprietor  and  several  families  of  de- 
pendents. There  were  rooms  for  storing  produce  and 
provisions ; others  for  farm  implements  and  rawhides ; 


Ancient  Ruins — Casas  Grandes 


Interior  Court — La  Casa  Grande 


EL  VALLE  AND  LA  CASA  GRANDE  109 


rooms  for  the  saddle  and  work  animals,  places  for 
provender,  and  a shop  for  all  kinds  of  repairs.  Be- 
cause of  its  remarkable  size,  the  house  became  known 
through  all  the  valley  as  “ La  Casa  Grande.”  It  was 
not  only  large,  but  the  best-built  house  of  the  region. 
Especially  well  constructed  was  the  side  occupied  as 
the  family  residence.  This  was  erected  first,  and 
the  adobes  going  into  its  walls  were  of  surprising  size 
and  toughness,  such,  the  neighbours  say,  as  are  no- 
where made  in  recent  times. 

The  massive  wooden  doors  were  carved  and  finished 
in  a fashion  which  would  be  the  envy  of  many  modern 
homes.  Facing  the  patio  was  a grand  portico  nearly 
one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  length.  This  was  the 
most  pleasant  quarter  of  the  entire  establishment. 
Here  were  the  great  dining-table  and  the  benches; 
farther  down,  the  saddles,  harness,  and  the  carriage. 
Here,  on  the  handsome  rawhide  rugs,  were  taken  the 
after-dinner  siestas,  and  in  warm  weather  all  hands 
slept  under  this  airy,  covered  colonnade. 

The  exterior  of  Casa  Grande  was  not  beautiful. 
At  the  middle  of  the  east  and  the  west  walls  were 
arched  doors  of  sufficient  size  to  admit  a horse  and 
rider,  the  family  carriage,  and  the  wagons  of  produce. 
At  one  corner  was  another  door,  small  but  heavy, 
opening  into  a living-room,  and  one  two  by  three 
window,  protected  by  thick  wooden  bars  and  strong 
shutters.  Aside  from  these  the  vast  expanse  of  walls 
was  unbroken  by  opening  of  any  kind.  The  interior 
court  was  more  home-like,  for  into  it  opened  the  door 
of  every  apartment.  Here  were  figs  and  pome- 


110  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS' 


granates ; perhaps  also  roses  and  laurel — tradition  does 
not  say. 

But  that  was  long  ago,  and  sad  changes  have  oc- 
curred. Owners  have  come  and  gone.  The  Dolores 
hacienda  has  been  many  times  divided.  Other  houses 
have  been  built  in  the  vicinity,  and  the  Great  House, 
occupied  through  long  years  by  careless  tenants,  was 
allowed  to  fall  in  decay. 

In  1906  La  Casa  Grande,  with  forty  acres  of  irriga- 
ble land  and  water  right,  together  with  a generous 
strip  of  pasture  ground,  was  offered  for  sale.  Why 
did  I,  a missionary,  buy  it?  I confess  to  an  extreme 
liking  for  ranch  life,  having  been  raised  upon  a farm. 
But  there  was  no  idea  of  abandoning  Christian  work. 
The  purpose  was  rather  to  undertake  a new  line  of 
effort  which  had  long  been  appealing  to  me.  Here 
at  El  Valle  was  a little  church  of  our  mission  much 
in  need  of  leadership.  Here  was  a section  of  the 
state  equal  in  area  to  Ohio  without  a Protestant  mis- 
sionary. Here  was  a piece  of  ground  where  with  good 
management  we  might  find  our  own  financial  support, 
and  yet  not  entirely  sever  our  connection  with  the 
mission. 

And  so  in  1907  the  title-deed  of  the  Casa  Grande 
passed  into  our  hands.  The  once  noble  compound 
was  now  so  nearly  a ruin  as  at  first  to  appear  almost 
valueless.  The  splendid  portico  was  gone,  and  two- 
thirds  of  the  building  resembled  the  homes  of  the 
Mound  Builders.  Only  those  family  apartments  so 
solidly  constructed  seventy  years  before  remained  to 
a degree  intact.  Choosing — at  one  corner — the  best 


EL  VALLE  AND  LA  CASA  GRANDE  111 


of  these  for  ourselves,  there  were  at  the  other  remain- 
ing corner  accommodations  for  the  two  Mexican 
families  who  were  to  assist  in  caring  for  the  place. 
There  was  no  expectation  that  we  should  ever  be 
able  to  entirely  reconstruct  the  great  building,  but 
our  home  corner  must  be  improved — room  by  room — 
new  floors,  new  wall  and  ceiling  finish,  and  real  win- 
dows, looking  both  in  and  out,  must  be  added.  The 
rooms  were  of  ample  dimensions  and  when  finally 
furnished  in  the  modest  manner  possible  to  us,  we 
were  not  ashamed  to  receive  our  Mexican  neighbours, 
who  from  the  first  showed  a friendly  interest  in  our 
settlement  among  them  and  were  particularly  pleased 
to  note  the  beginnings  of  transformation  in  the  Casa 
Grande. 

As  means  permitted,  one  side  of  the  great  quad- 
rangle was  rebuilt,  providing  for  the  storage  of 
produce,  the  housing  of  animals  and  provender,  as 
well  as  vehicles  and  implements.  But  first  an  eight- 
acre  plot  of  ground  adjoining  the  house  was  prepared 
and  set  to  fruit.  Many  of  the  El  Valle  families  had 
seedling  peaches,  good  quinces  and  figs,  a fair  sort 
of  plum ; but  no  apples,  no  berries ; almost  no  grapes. 
There  were  few  pears,  and  these  of  a very  inferior 
kind.  But,  strange  as  it  may  seem,  in  such  a climate, 
hundreds  of  families  in  the  valley  were  raising  no 
fruit  whatever. 

One  feature  of  our  enterprise  was  to  introduce  into 
the  region  the  choicest  varieties  of  American  fruit, 
and  my  first  planting  was,  in  effect,  an  experimental 
orchard.'  Fortunately  my  younger  days  were  not 


112  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


without  horticultural  experience,  and  additional  study 
was  now  made.  Apple  trees,  peach,  pear,  and  plum, 
in  considerable  varieties,  were  obtained  from  Mis- 
souri; also  a large  selection  of  grapevines.  From 
California  came  English  walnuts,  apricots,  figs,  al- 
monds, grape,  and  berry  roots.  These  latter  were 
soon  producing  abundantly.  In  two  years  the  plums 
and  peaches  began  showdng  what  they  could  do  in 
their  new  climate.  The  native  clingstones  of  the 
neighbours  begin  ripening  the  last  of  August,  but  our 
little  trees  commenced  giving  us  delicious  fruit  the 
first  of  June,  and  throughout  the  summer  were  ma- 
turing a continual  succession  of  different  varieties. 
The  other  trees  likewise  gave  splendid  results. 

Of  course  our  neighbours  were  interested.  Almost 
daily  came  visitors  from  town,  basket  on  arm,  beg- 
ging the  privilege  of  seeing  the  trees  and  of  buying 
a little  fruit  to  carry  home. 

Not  unexpected  were  the  numerous  inquiries  as  to 
where  such  trees  might  be  obtained  for  planting — 
with  the  result  that  while  ordering  more  stock  for 
myself,  many  orders  for  my  neighbours  were  in- 
cluded, and  a small  nursery  was  started  on  my  own 
ground. 

Finally  our  patio  was  again  enclosed,  the  gaps  being 
filled  by  a single  wall,  and  the  trees  and  flowering 
plants  of  the  quadrangle  doubtless  exceeded  in  at- 
tractiveness any  previous  period  of  the  Casa  Grande’s 
existence.  Improvements  were  made  outside.  The 
farm  was  neatly  fenced.  Shade  trees  were  planted 
and  made  prodigious  growth.  A few  acres  of  alfalfa 


EL  VALLE  AND  LA  CASA  GRANDE  113 


were  soon  furnishing  six  fine  cuttings  each  season.  A 
large  piece  of  pasture  land  was  fenced.  The  best 
cows  obtainable  were  purchased  and  thoroughbred  sires 
were  brought  from  a Mormon  colony  at  the  north- 
west, for  the  beginning  of  a choice  herd. 

Our  Mexican  dependents  carried  large  responsibility 
for  all  our  crops — wheat,  corn,  and  beans;  also  for 
the  livestock,  in  the  management  of  which  they  were 
expert.  These  men  and  boys  were  honest,  capable, 
and  faithful.  There  were  periods  when  additional 
help  was  required,  and  at  times  twelve  or  fifteen  men 
were  in  the  Casa  Grande  employ.  In  this  way,  and 
a hundred  others,  opportunities  were  ever  occurring 
for  becoming  acquainted  with  the  valley  people  and 
establishing  friendly  relations  with  them.  I was 
simply  one  of  the  neighbours,  a rancher  among 
ranchers,  and  talked  corn,  beans,  and  peanuts,  cattle, 
hogs,  and  fruit,  things  present  and  things  to  come, 
with  the  rest  of  them. 

From  time  to  time  the  ranch  people  on  our  side 
of  the  river,  men,  women,  and  children,  were  invited 
to  spend  an  evening  in  our  great  sitting-room.  Pic- 
tures, songs,  piano  playing,  a Bible  reading,  a neigh- 
bourly talk  on  present  and  future  interests,  and  a 
prayer,  usually  had  place  in  the  informal  program. 
At  other  times  young  people  from  across  the  river 
came  to  pass  an  evening  in  the  Casa  Grande,  with 
singing,  pictures,  games,  and  refreshments.  The  old 
house  also  received  visits  from  the  more  prominent 
citizens  of  El  Valle.  Town  officers,  merchants, 
teachers,  and  the  courteous  parish  priest  called  on  us. 


114  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


The  mayor  and  his  associates  were  invariably  friendly, 
even  during  the  revolutionary  years  when  political 
factions  were  literally  at  swords’  points  and  chasing 
each  other  out  of  office  and  out  of  town.  Even  the 
military  commanders,  now  federal,  now  revolutionary, 
gave  the  American  family — as  will  later  appear — the 
full  weight  of  their  protection. 

Responsibility  was  assumed  for  the  conduct  of 
services  in  our  Protestant  chapel,  and  frequent  visits 
were  made  to  the  pleasant  neighbourhood  of  believers 
five  miles  down  the  river. 

With  stereopticon,  Bibles,  and  other  literature,  the 
rancher  missionary  and  his  wife  made  occasional 
tours  to  other  towns  in  the  valley  and  beyond  its 
borders.  Guerrero,  at  the  south,  and  San  Pedro,  a 
great  mining  camp  eighty  miles  to  the  north,  were  the 
extreme  limits  of  such  tours.  These  journeys,  taken 
alone,  with  our  own  carriage  and  camp  outfit,  were 
over  delightfully  picturesque  roads  and  always  thor- 
oughly enjoyed.  There  never  occurred  a case  of 
misadventure  or  ill  treatment.  On  the  contrary, 
friends  and  welcome  were  uniformly  encountered. 

Life  at  the  Casa  Grande  was  so  full  of  labour  and 
incident,  the  planning  of  improvements  and  receiving 
of  visitors,  that  little  opportunity  was  presented  for 
loneliness.  Never-to-be-forgotten  dias  de  campo — 
picnics — in  well-watered  canons  of  the  near-by  moun- 
tains were  occasionally  taken  in  the  company  of  con- 
genial neighbours.  The  shaded  river,  just  down  the 
bank  from  the  house,  afforded  opportunity  for  delight- 
ful outings  and  experiences  in  bathing.  Ducks  and 


EL  VALLE  AND  LA  CASA  GRANDE  115 


rabbits  were  abundant,  and  at  night  the  coyotes  rarely 
failed  to  remind  us  of  their  presence.  Several  families 
of  valley  quail  made  their  homes  in  our  orchard,  nest- 
ing each  season  and  bringing  off  their  large  broods 
near  the  house.  Particularly  happy  were  the  summer 
vacation  seasons,  when  one  or  more  of  our  children — 
once  all  four — were  with  us.  But  these  young  people, 
who  became  passionately  fond  of  “ the  Ranch,”  must 
return  to  their  studies  in  the  States,  so  that  during 
the  most  of  every  year  my  wife  and  I alone  occupied 
our  side  of  the  Casa  Grande,  while  our  faithful  Mex- 
icans were  at  home  just  across  the  patio. 

It  may  easily  be  imagined  that  the  most  interesting 
days  of  the  week  were  those  when  the  mail-stage 
arrived,  bringing  letters  and  periodicals  from  the  dear 
homeland. 


II 

THE  REVOLUTION  STRIKES  EL  VALLE 


THE  growing  political  uneasiness  in  Mexico  cul- 
minated when  President  Diaz  decided  to  take 
the  executive  office  for  his  eighth  term — seven 
of  these  being  consecutive.  The  dictator-president  had 
been  a remarkably  able  ruler.  He  had  given  Mexico 
the  only  real  period  of  order  and  prosperity  in  her 
history.  But  in  recent  years  many  of  his  immediate 
associates  had  been  men  in  whom  the  people  had  no 
confidence.  These  wealthy  landholders  and  capitalists 
— some  of  them  now  members  of  the  cabinet — were 
largely  in  control  of  the  administration  and  were  run- 
ning the  government  in  their  own  interests  rather  than 
for  the  public  good.  So,  when  it  became  known  that 
Diaz  was  again  to  succeed  himself,  and  also  that  he 
had  chosen  as  vice-president  and  probable  presidential 
successor  one  of  his  most  unpopular  associates,  dissat- 
isfaction assumed  serious  proportions.  “ No  reelec- 
tion ” and  “ effective  suffrage  ” became  favourite  catch- 
words of  the  threatening  revolt. 

There  were  also  other  causes  for  the  widespread  dis- 
content. Complaint  was  made  of  the  favouritism 
shown  the  great  landowners  in  taxation,  and  favour- 
itism shown  to  certain  private  enterprises  in  which 
friends  of  Diaz  were  financially  interested.  There  was 

116 


REVOLUTION  STRIKES  EL  VALLE  117 


a demand  that  the  people  should  be  allowed  their  proper 
share  in  the  government;  that  the  immense  haciendas 
should  be  broken  up  and  opened  to  settlement,  and 
particularly  that  the  Reform  Laws,  guarding  the  liber- 
ties of  the  people  from  the  encroachments  of  the 
Roman  Church,  should  be  enforced.  A careful  writer, 
referring  to  the  causes  of  the  revolution,  says : “ An- 
other source  of  irritation,  more  profound  and  wide- 
spread than  any  outsider  could  suspect  or  discover, 
because  it  operated  so  secretly,  was  the  growing  power, 
during  the  least  decade  especially,  of  the  Catholic 
Church.  The  old  General’s  (Diaz)  antagonism  to 
ecclesiastical  influence  in  politics  was  well  known.  He 
knew  who  had  caused  the  bloody  war  over  the  Laws 
of  Reform  and  who  had  later  brought  on  the  French 
intervention,  with  its  long  list  of  woes.  But  either 
because  he  himself  relaxed  somewhat  in  his  attitude 
as  old  age  came  on,  or  others  took  advantage  of  him 
by  acting  without  his  knowledge,  some  who  were  of 
his  official  family  began  to  show  great  deference  to  the 
Church  authorities.  These,  of  course,  promptly  took 
advantage  of  it.  Convents  and  monasteries  were  con- 
ducted in  defiance  of  the  law,  Church  schools  were  sub- 
sidized from  public  funds,  public  processions  took  place 
unmolested  by  the  police.  When  taxed  with  their  neg- 
lect the  officials  shrugged  their  shoulders  and  hinted  of 
orders  from  ‘ higher  up.’ 

“ The  sense  of  uneasiness  which  all  this  inspired 
can  be  comprehended  only  by  one  who  has  intimately 
entered  into  the  life  of  the  Mexican  people  and  has 
come  to  understand  how  deeply  distrustful  they  are  of 


118  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


Catholic  influence  in  public  affairs.  The  men  of  the 
country  are  a unit  in  resenting  such  interference  and 
almost  equally  unanimous  in  pronouncing  adversely  on 
the  moral  character  and  standing  of  the  priests.  The 
sense  of  apprehension  lest  through  the  inattention  of 
an  old  man  whom  personally  they  still  loved  and 
admired,  the  nightmare  of  ecclesiastical  oppression 
should  once  more  be  fastened  upon  their  country,  be- 
came so  acute  that  they  were  willing  to  demand  that 
this  same  honoured  and  venerable  ruler  go  into  exile 
rather  than  run  the  risk.”  * 

Francisco  I.  Madero,  a young  man  of  wealthy  fam- 
ily, who  had  himself  been  a candidate  for  the  presi- 
dency, was  the  leader  of  the  revolution  which  caused 
the  overthrow  of  the  Diaz  government  and  the  exile 
of  the  aged  leader — in  May,  1911.  The  first  armed 
uprising  took  place  in  the  fall  of  1910,  with  Chihuahua 
state  the  principal  scene  of  action. 

Having  briefly  explained  the  conditions  leading  up 
to  the  serious  overturnings  in  Mexico,  it  is  not  my 
purpose  to  follow  the  course  of  various  revolutions  in 
general,  but  to  describe  how  they  affected  El  Valle, 
including  the  Casa  Grande. 

I had  Mexican  Protestant  friends  who  were  mem- 
bers of  an  anti-reelection  club  which  had  existed  for 
some  time  in  Guerrero.  Through  these  friends  I had 
been  confidentially  informed  of  the  character  and  the 
seriousness  of  the  discussions  looking  toward  better 
government.  It  was  the  avowed  object  of  this  club, 
and  other  similar  ones,  to  work  for  the  desired  reforms 
* Winton,  “ Mexico  To-day,”  p.  59 


REVOLUTION  STRIKES  EL  VALLE  119 


only  by  legal  and  peaceable  methods.  While  Guerrero 
was  one  of  the  first  and  strongest  centres  of  the  revo- 
lution, the  call  to  arms  did  not  come  from  this  club, 
but  from  another  element  in  the  city  too  impatient  to 
await  the  result  of  peaceful  efforts  in  the  correction 
of  abuses.  The  club  members,  however,  were  drawn 
into  the  armed  uprising. 

By  November,  1910,  disquieting  rumours  reached 
El  Valle  of  troop  movements  in  the  Guerrero  valley. 
On  account  of  the  strict  censorship  immediately  en- 
forced we  could  learn  nothing  definite  concerning  this, 
and  as  the  federal  government  had  become  suspicious 
of  this  entire  section  of  Chihuahua,  we  soon  found 
ourselves  incomunicados,  our  mail  service  completely 
cut  off,  and  a company  of  federal  soldiers  garrisoning 
the  town.  Our  city  officials  were  loyal  to  Diaz  and 
they  were  evidently  receiving  secret  information  as 
to  the  situation,  for  trenches  were  dug  and  defences 
thrown  up  at  the  entrances  of  various  streets.  The 
city  building  was  converted  into  a stronghold,  as  were 
also  a number  of  private  houses  in  different  wards  of 
the  town.  Finally,  the  mayor,  with  a strong  guard, 
took  up  his  quarters  on  the  flat  roof  of  the  parish 
church,  while  the  church  itself  was  made  into  a veri- 
table fortress.  From  their  high  lookout  on  the  church 
sentinels  with  field  glasses  were  unceasingly  scanning 
the  valley,  up  and  down,  but  particularly  the  passes  in 
the  mountains  at  the  east  and  the  west.  Evidently  the 
enemy  might  appear  at  any  hour.  But  days  and  weeks 
went  by  with  no  unusual  occurrence.  Our  citizens, 
very  nervous  at  first,  became  accustomed  to  the  situa- 


120  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


tion,  and  there  was  no  little  quiet  jesting  at  the  ex- 
pense of  the  handsome  young  mayor  in  his  high  office 
on  the  church. 

The  people  of  El  Valle  were  not  disposed  to  be  revo- 
lutionary. They  were  too  busy  with  their  fall  har- 
vests; then,  few  were  expert  with  the  rifle,  like  the 
mountaineers  about  Guerrero.  Many  prominent  citi- 
zens were  well-known  strong  supporters  of  the  estab- 
lished government  and  were  cooperating  freely  in  the 
preparations  for  the  city’s  defence.  In  this  all  prop- 
erty owners  were  asked  to  assist,  and  the  Casa  Grande 
furnished  its  quota. 

One  did  not  hear  it  on  the  streets,  but  there  was 
everywhere  sympathy  for  the  revolutionary  cause. 
Within  closed  doors,  or  in  low  tones,  there  were  sen- 
timents expressed  which  should  never  reach  the  ears 
of  the  authorities.  So  delicate  was  the  situation  in 
those  days  that  one  imprudent  word  might  mean  the 
calaboose. 

One  morning  early  in  January  (1911),  my  cowboy, 
Eleno,  reported  our  pasture  fence  cut  on  both  upper 
and  lower  sides,  making  a gap  of  several  hundred 
feet,  through  which,  judging  from  all  signs,  an  army 
had  passed  down  the  valley  in  the  night.  There  could 
be  no  doubt  of  it,  and  our  military  chiefs  took  inter- 
ested notice,  but  no  one  had  seen,  no  one  had  heard, 
no  one  knew  anything  of  the  matter.  The  following 
day  word  came  that  several  hundred  men  were  en- 
camped in  the  cottonwoods  near  Galeana.  Not  many 
days  later  report  was  brought  that  an  engagement  had 
occurred  in  which  the  two  hundred  soldiers  of  the 


REVOLUTION  STRIKES  EL  VALLE  121 


federal  garrison  had  been  annihilated  and  that  our 
neighbouring  city  was  occupied  by  the  revolutionists. 

For  several  days  following  this  sensational  news 
there  was  anxious  suspense.  The  many  who  had 
doubted  our  ever  seeing  an  invading  army  were  now 
convinced  that  our  turn  would  come.  Not  only  did 
the  appointed  sentinels  keep  doubly  vigilant  guard, 
but,  standing  on  housetops  everywhere,  outlooks  with 
hands  shading  eyes  were  scrutinizing  all  directions  of 
the  valley.  Especially  noticeable  were  moving  clouds 
of  dust,  such  as  a herd  of  animals  might  make.  We 
learned  subsequently  that  the  first  herald  of  an  ap- 
proaching army  is  a distant  movement  of  dust.  But, 
as  the  days  still  passed  without  event,  vigilance  was 
relaxed. 

Just  before  noon  on  January  27,  one  of  the  boys 
working  with  me  in  the  orchard  suddenly  exclaimed, 
" A Hi  viene  gente!” — There  come  people!  He  was 
pointing  down  the  river  to  a moving  mass  which  I 
soon  perceived  to  be  mounted  men  in  considerable 
numbers.  They  were  emerging  from  the  trees  at  the 
river’s  bank,  having  evidently  just  crossed  the  stream, 
and  were  heading  for  the  El  Valle  road  leading  by 
our  house.  We  afterward  learned  that  the  military  and 
townspeople  were  already  aware  of  the  presence  of  this 
troop,  said  to  number  six  hundred.  Only  an  hour  be- 
fore it  had  passed  quite  near  the  city  in  quiet  recon- 
noitering  and  disappeared  in  the  trees  from  which  we 
had  seen  it  emerge. 

Practically  the  entire  city  was  standing  on  its  house- 
tops watching  breathlessly  this  menacing  parade.  For 


122  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


a brief  space  it  had  been  lost  to  view,  but  now  the  dust 
arising  on  our  road  indicated  that  the  army  had  again 
turned  toward  the  town.  The  excitement  was  intense. 

I admit  that  we  also  were  a little  excited,  and  our 
home  Mexicans  were  pallid  with  fright  when  it  was 
seen  that  the  cavalcade  had  left  the  main  El  Valle  road 
and  was  approaching  the  Casa  Grande. 

My  wife  and  I were  standing  by  the  entrance  when 
the  leaders  halted  and  dismounted.  To  our  astonish- 
ment we  distinguished  among  the  foremost  several  of 
our  Guerrero  friends,  who  hastened  forward  and  gave 
us  the  hearty  Mexican  embrace.  At  once  they  pre- 
sented to  me  their  commander,  who  immediately  asked 
if  I could  place  at  his  disposal  a room,  with  table  and 
writing  material.  In  a moment  Colonel  Garcia  was 
seated  with  a number  of  his  officers  and  dictating  a 
note  to  the  mayor  of  El  Valle.  This  note — demanding 
the  surrender  of  the  city — closed  with  the  words,  “ If 
by  three  o’clock  this  afternoon  I do  not  receive  a 
favourable  reply  from  you,  I shall  be  obliged  to  enter 
the  town  by  force.”  The  missive  was  at  once  des- 
patched. 

It  was  now  twelve  o’clock.  Already  the  chief  of 
commissary  had  inquired,  “ How  much  flour  have  you 
on  hand  ? ” Learning  that  we  had  less  than  one  hun- 
dred pounds,  he  remarked,  “ Then  we  will  fill  our- 
selves with  something  else  until  we  take  the  town.” 
Inquiries  after  provender  resulted  in  an  arrangement  to 
take  from  my  alfalfa  bins,  which  were  abundantly  sup- 
plied, and  soon  the  hundreds  of  army  beasts  were  con- 
tentedly feeding.  In  an  incredibly  short  time  many 


REVOLUTION  STRIKES  EL  VALLE  123 


scores  of  fires  were  burning,  inside  our  patio  and  out. 
Coffee  pails  were  steaming  and  beef — still  warm  from 
animals  on  the  near-by  range — was  broiling. 

We  had  invited  our  Guerrero  friends  to  dine  with 
us.  Leaning  their  rifles  against  the  wall,  but  not  re- 
moving their  cartridge  belts,  they  seated  themselves  at 
the  table,  and  while  eating  explained  why  they  had 
joined  the  Madero  revolt.  “ The  reforms  we  seek 
are  of  supreme  importance,  and  we  are  convinced  that 
only  by  fighting  for  them  are  they  to  be  secured.  We 
are  willing  not  only  to  fight,  but,  if  necessary,  to  die 
for  them.” 

Suddenly  came  the  sound  of  firing  in  the  direction 
of  the  town.  It  was  the  answer  to  the  demand  for 
surrender,  coming  in  the  form  of  bullets  having  the 
Casa  Grande  as  target.  Instantly  our  guests  sprang 
from  the  table,  seized  their  rifles,  and  joined  their  com- 
panions, who  were  already  on  the  run  towards  town, 
leaving  only  a guard  at  the  house.  We  were  directed 
to  keep  well  within  the  protection  of  our  thick  adobe 
walls. 

The  battle  was  on,  and  it  raged  intermittently 
through  the  afternoon  and  until  the  morning  of  the 
third  day,  when  the  surrender  was  made. 

Those  were  thrilling  days  and  nights,  for  who  could 
sleep,  with  bursting  bombs  and  scattering  fusilade  and 
the  bringing  in  of  wounded  men?  Early  on  the  morn- 
ing of  the  second  day  I was  asked  to  designate  a place 
for  the  wounded.  Not  until  then  did  we  realize  that 
the  Casa  Grande  was  headquarters  of  the  insurgent 
army.  A huge  room  emptied  of  provender  was  con- 


124  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


verted  into  a hospital  and  presently  filled  with  poor 
fellows,  some  with  fearful  wounds,  but  not  one  com- 
plaining— except  a boy  of  fifteen,  who  had  both  legs 
shot  through,  and  a bullet  in  one  foot.  No  surgeon 
accompanied  the  troop,  only  a man  slightly  skilled  in 
surgical  first  aid,  and  with  a very  limited  supply  of 
hospital  material.  There  was  much  in  our  own  medi- 
cine chest  to  help  out,  and  we  were  both  soon  giving 
our  main  attention  to  the  wounded. 

" Senor,  where  can  we  put  our  prisoners?”  and 
looking  out  I saw  a squad  of  men  being  brought  in. 
Another  empty  provender  room  was  assigned  as  a 
jail.  None  of  these  prisoners  were  soldiers;  all  were 
citizens  of  the  town,  and  many  were  well  known  to  me. 
With  one  of  these,  don  Ramon,  and  with  his  three 
sons,  also  captured,  the  Maderista  soldiers  were  very 
angry.  It  was  claimed  that  they  were  responsible  for 
an  unfair  ruse  by  which  the  invaders  had  lost  men. 

Don  Ramon  was  one  of  our  most  valued  citizens 
and  an  esteemed  friend  of  ours.  When  the  old  man 
was  brought  into  the  great  living-room — now  officers’ 
quarters — I feared  the  worst,  for  the  guards  standing 
with  rifles  in  hand  while  the  case  was  being  conducted 
were  constantly  muttering,  and  my  Guerrero  friends 
informed  me  that  it  would  be  very  difficult  to  save  his 
life.  I could  not  see  such  a man  die  without  making 
an  effort  in  his  behalf,  and  obtaining  the  presiding 
officer’s  permission  to  speak,  I told  of  the  esteem  in 
which  the  prisoner  was  held  all  through  the  valley,  of 
his  unquestioned  integrity,  of  his  kindness  to  the  poor, 
and  I did  not  fail  to  tell  of  my  own  friendship  for  him. 


REVOLUTION  STRIKES  EL  VALLE  125 


Perhaps  my  interference  in  the  case  had  no  effect,  for 
no  promise  of  leniency  was  made ; but  the  kind-hearted 
Ramon  and  his  excellent  sons  are  still  living  in  El 
Valle.  They  were,  however,  subjected  to  some  rough 
treatment  while  at  the  Casa  Grande.  At  one  time 
they  were  placed  in  line  with  a dozen  other  prisoners, 
the  arms  of  all  were  tightly  bound  at  the  back,  and  each 
man  to  his  fellows — one  lariat  rope  being  used  to  unite 
the  entire  gang.  Several  of  the  guard  now  walked 
up  and  down  in  front  of  the  hatless  men,  roundly  be- 
rating them,  each  one  in  turn,  for  his  supposed  crimes. 
When  one  guard  had  delivered  his  mind,  another 
would  take  his  place  in  cursing,  and  sometimes  several 
were  thus  engaged  at  once.  The  abused  men  pru- 
dently kept  silence,  perhaps  wondering  of  what  further 
more  serious  treatment  this  was  the  preliminary. 
Soon,  with  menacing  guns,  the  men  were  forced  to  the 
rear,  until  the  long  line  was  standing  with  backs  to  the 
wall.  Their  faces  paled,  for  this  could  only  mean 
position  for  the  firing  squad.  A tragedy  too  horrible 
for  belief  seemed  about  to  be  enacted  at  our  own  home. 
The  whole  affair  was  but  a huge  fright,  in  which  the 
perpetrators  evidently  found  immense  amusement  as 
they  walked  away,  leaving  their  victims  to  stand  a while 
before  untying  them. 

These  men,  although  rough,  were  not  bad-hearted. 
Our  Protestant  friends  exercised  no  little  influence 
over  their  comrades.  Wounded  enemies  were  taken 
up  and  brought  into  our  hospital,  where  they  received 
the  same  kind  treatment  as  the  others.  Only  one  exe- 
cution took  place  after  the  surrender,  and  that  was  of 


126  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


an  evil  adviser  from  another  city.  The  El  Valle 
mayor  was  urged  to  continue  his  service  under  the  new 
government,  but,  declining,  was  given  his  freedom. 

Upon  don  Ramon  was  imposed  a fine  of  five  thou- 
sand dollars,  which  he  raised  with  great  difficulty.  He 
believed  himself  justified  in  defending  the  established 
authority,  and  in  doing  so  had  lost  one  son  when  he 
himself  was  taken  prisoner.  His  opponents  believed 
just  as  sincerely  that  the  uprising  was  a righteous  one. 
As  my  old  friend  faced  the  young  men  who  were  de- 
manding his  death,  he  turned  to  them  and  said : “ Boys, 
I may  have  made  mistakes,  but,  if  so,  they  were  of 
ignorance.  We  are  all  Mexicans:  we  are  brothers.” 

In  the  occupation  of  the  Casa  Grande  for  three  days 
by  the  insurgents  the  American  owners  were  treated 
with  marked  respect.  All  damages  to  property  and  all 
provender  or  provisions  taken  were  promptly  paid  for. 
The  fact  that  the  attack  upon  the  city  was  made  from 
our  house  did  not  compromise  us  in  the  opinion  of  the 
townspeople.  On  the  contrary,  the  great  ranch  house 
became  more  popular  in  the  days  which  followed. 


Ill 


EL  VALLE  “ REVOLUTIONIZED  ” 

IT  was  on  Sunday  morning,  January  29,  1911,  that 
the  revolutionists  occupied  El  Valle.  Before  noon 
the  Casa  Grande  was  vacated  and  troop  head- 
quarters were  established  in  the  town.  The  wounded 
were  carried  on  stretchers  to  the  boys’  school,  which, 
with  desks  removed,  was  to  serve  as  hospital. 

As  the  last  of  these  men  were  borne  away,  Mrs.  Case 
and  I followed,  expecting  further  aid  would  be  needed. 
We  were  not  disappointed.  What  a sight  was  that 
great  schoolroom  as  we  entered ! Lying  here  and  there 
upon  the  floor  in  their  bloody  clothes  were  our  wounded 
men,  with  others,  and  more  were  being  brought  in. 
Standing  about  each  man  was  a group  of  his  comrades, 
personal  friends,  cartridge  belts  still  buckled  upon 
them,  and  spurs  jingling  at  their  feet.  Some  were 
kneeling  by  the  side  of  their  disabled  companions, 
ministering  food  or  drink.  Others  were  looking  on, 
busily  puffing  cigarettes,  and  all  were  in  lively  con- 
versation. 

Here  was  a task,  and  with  some  others  who  had 
come  in  we  set  ourselves  to  it.  The  room  was  first 
cleared  of  the  noisy  soldiery,  then  hastily  cleaned. 
Men  were  sent  to  the  neighbouring  houses  in  quest  of 
mattresses  and  comforts,  which  were  quickly  secured. 

127 


128  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


In  a marvellously  brief  time  a company  of  women  had 
converted  a bolt  of  cotton  into  nightshirts,  another  into 
sheets,  and  before  night  the  room  appeared  quite  like 
a hospital,  and  the  men  like  patients.  There  was  about 
it  an  air  of  decency,  and  even  of  comfort. 

A town  doctor  had  been  pressed  into  service,  but 
aside  from  giving  directions  as  to  the  preparations  of 
antiseptics  and  the  application  of  bandages,  this  man — 
secretly  hostile  to  the  revolutionary  cause — was  of  no 
use  about  the  place,  for  he  gave  his  own  hand  to 
nothing.  Having  myself  had  some  hospital  experience, 
and  remaining  on  the  job  day  and  night,  I found  my- 
self bearing  more  and  more  responsibility,  until  within 
a few  days  the  military  commander  called  me  to  him 
and  asked  me  to  assume  the  entire  charge  of  this  de- 
partment of  their  service,  placing  at  the  same  time  in 
my  hand  a roll  of  bills  for  purchase  of  supplies  and 
payment  of  assistants.  This  hospital  possessed  no 
trained  nurse  and  rarely  was  seen  in  it  a physician  or 
a surgeon.  Upon  the  lay  director  fell  not  only  the 
management,  but  much  of  the  detail  service,  as  the 
dressing  of  wounds,  taking  of  temperatures,  bathing 
of  the  patients  and  the  preparation  of  their  food. 
The  neighbours  were  warmly  sympathetic,  and  many 
were  the  delicately  prepared  dishes  sent  in  at  meal- 
time. What  appetites  those  men  had!  What  stories 
were  told,  as  their  pains  became  less  severe,  and  how 
the  ties  of  friendship  were  tightened  between  us  as  the 
weeks  went  by!  Only  at  the  end  of  three  months, 
when  the  most  of  my  men  had  reentered  the  ranks  or 
received  their  discharge,  did  I lay  down  this  task. 


EL  VALLE  “ REVOLUTIONIZED  ” 


129 


During  these  three  months  the  Casa  Grande  affairs 
were  managed  entirely  by  our  capable  Mexicans,  under 
my  wife’s  superintendence.  Only  on  rare  occasions 
was  I able  to  pass  even  an  hour  at  home.  Some  of 
the  days  were  filled  with  peril  and  the  nights  with  ex- 
citement. Scarcely  had  the  Maderistas  established 
themselves  in  the  city  before  a rumour  filled  all  ears 
that  a force  of  government  soldiers,  outnumbering  the 
insurgents,  was  marching  upon  El  Valle  from  the 
east.  Before  evening  of  that  day  the  information 
was  more  than  rumour.  The  enemy  was  known  to  be 
encamped  within  two  miles  of  the  town  and  an  attack 
was  probable  that  evening. 

Our  hospital  patients  were  greatly  alarmed.  In 
previous  battles  which  had  taken  place  at  the  south  the 
federals  were  understood  to  have  spared  no  prisoners 
— all  “ rebels  ” falling  into  their  hands  had  been  exe- 
cuted, including  the  wounded  found  on  the  field.  As 
night  drew  on,  my  men  became  exceedingly  uneasy. 
There  was  serious  talk  between  bed  and  bed  as  to  the 
prospects  of  the  place  being  taken  and  of  their  own 
fate  in  such  a case.  My  efforts  to  quiet  their  fears 
were  without  avail.  Among  the  more  than  twenty 
wounded  were  many  whose  legs  were  still  in  good  con- 
dition. Several  had  holes  in  the  head  and  others  in 
the  arms;  two  men  had  bullet  gashes  in  their  backs 
and  another  had  a bad  tear  through  the  side.  Evi- 
dently these  men  were  not  disposed  to  lie  still  and  be 
bayoneted. 

Shortly  before  nine  o’clock  a scattering  fusilade  at 
the  north  edge  of  town  announced  the  attack.  The 


130  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


hospital  was  at  once  in  commotion,  and  every  man 
with  sound  legs  was  standing  upon  them.  In  the 
excitement  wounds  were  forgotten;  bundles  were 
hastily  thrown  together,  and  within  five  minutes  nearly 
one-half  of  my  patients  had  disappeared.  The  sound 
of  firing  drew  nearer.  Bombs  began  exploding  in  the 
vicinity.  Fierce,  uproarious,  and  prolonged  shouting 
of  men  reached  our  ears. 

Juanito  Aguilar,  whose  left  leg  was  fearfully  shat- 
tered, grasped  in  his  right  hand  a huge  pistol,  and  his 
grim  expression  of  face  plainly  said,  “ Some  of  them 
will  fall  before  they  take  me!  ” No  others  had  guns, 
and  all  lay  trembling.  But  the  battle  sounds  became 
more  intermittent  and  before  midnight  all  was  quiet. 
The  city’s  defenders,  short  of  ammunition,  had  re- 
sponded to  the  attack  with  a widespread  fusilade,  as 
if  coming  from  a large  force,  and  their  shots  were 
accompanied  by  blasts  of  human  voices,  rolling  out  on 
the  night  air  like  a score  of  college  yells!  The  ruse 
was  completely  successful,  for  the  terrified  invaders 
hastily  withdrew  to  their  camp,  and  soon  retired  from 
the  valley. 

Only  a few  days  elapsed  before  El  Valle  was  again 
thrown  into  excitement  by  the  word  that  a still  larger 
body  of  federals  was  approaching  from  the  direction 
of  Chihuahua.  More  ammunition  now  having  been 
obtained,  the  Maderistas  did  not  await  the  assault, 
but,  keeping  secretly  informed  of  the  enemy’s  move- 
ments, and  learning  when  they  would  be  in  the  narrow 
defile  at  the  foot  of  Cerro  Grande,  they  surprised  them 
there.  The  engagement  resulted  in  a thorough  defeat 


EL  VALLE  “REVOLUTIONIZED”  131 


for  the  government  soldiers,  two  hundred  of  whom 
were  reported  killed,  and  the  remainder  dispersed.  If 
any  casualty  occurred  among  the  insurgents  we  did  not 
hear  of  it ! One  wounded  prisoner  was  brought  to  our 
hospital.  He  became  a favourite  among  the  patients, 
and  as  soon  as  able  to  bear  arms  again  he  enrolled 
under  the  Madero  banner. 

A remarkable  change  had  come  over  El  Vlalle. 
When  we  followed  the  victorious  troops  into  the  city 
that  Sunday  morning  we  were  shocked  by  the  havoc 
apparent  on  all  sides.  The  parish  church  was  badly 
disfigured,  likewise  the  municipal  and  many  private 
buildings.  Branches  had  been  shot  from  shade  trees. 
A venturesome  pig  was  lying  where  he  had  fallen  near 
the  plaza,  and  the  great  blood  stains  here  and  there 
told  of  affairs  more  serious. 

But  where  were  the  townspeople?  All  places  of 
business  were  closed  and  all  dwellings  apparently  de- 
serted. Not  yet  did  the  citizens  care  to  venture  forth 
from  their  heavy  adobe  shelters.  Some  men  were  to 
be  seen  and  a few  daring  boys,  but  no  woman.  A 
number  of  stores  had  already  been  sacked  and  others 
were  soon  to  be.  The  plaza  and  the  streets  were  full 
of  mounted  revolutionists,  under  no  sort  of  control  by 
their  officers.  Every  man  was  now  for  himself.  The 
greater  part  had  already  tasted  liquor  and  thirsted  for 
more.  They  had  laid  their  hands  on  plunder  and  were 
not  satisfied. 

If  silence  reigned  within  the  homes,  not  so  upon  the 
streets;  there  was  pandemonium.  Not  a moment 
passed  without  the  discharge  of  firearms,  and  often  a 


132  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


whole  volley  of  bullets  was  sent  skyward,  giving  vent 
to  the  excess  enthusiasm.  From  time  to  time  a squad 
of  horsemen  would  come  dashing  down  the  street  with 
cheers  that  seemingly  might  awaken  their  Indian  an- 
cestors, had  they  been  in  the  vicinity! 

Who  were  these  men?  Excepting  the  officers,  they 
were  mainly  of  the  peon  class,  ranchmen  and  cowboys, 
the  majority  under  thirty  years  of  age,  and  a free 
sprinkling  of  boys  from  fifteen  to  seventeen.  Many 
had  no  clear  idea  of  the  aims  of  the  revolution,  but 
were  out  for  a good  time,  and  incidentally  to  boost 
“ the  cause.”  They  were  not  bandits.  At  home  and 
in  time  of  peace  they  were  good  fellows,  law-abiding, 
and  trustworthy.  But  these  years  of  revolution  in 
Mexico  have  been  for  thousands  a training  school  in 
brigandage.  Many  good  men  have  become  bad  men, 
and  many  of  previous  doubtful  character  are  now  con- 
firmed and  dangerous  desperadoes. 

Before  I had  reached  the  hospital  that  morning  and 
while  pushing  my  way  through  the  crowded  plaza  to 
see  Colonel  Garcia — who  was  attempting  to  set  up  a 
provisional  local  government — I was  accosted  by  one 
of  the  city  merchants.  Evidently  greatly  disturbed, 
this  young  man  called  my  attention  to  the  fact  that  his 
store  was  at  that  very  moment  being  sacked.  It  was 
situated  at  one  corner  of  the  plaza  and  was  one  of  the 
best  in  El  Valle.  Looking  across  I beheld  all  doors 
open  and  the  place  swarming  with  soldiery,  among 
them  being  also  some  of  our  own  townspeople,  men 
and  boys  of  the  poorer  class. 

There  were  two  streams  of  pillagers,  one  coming 


A Military  Train 


EL  VALLE  “ REVOLUTIONIZED  ” 


133 


from  the  building  with  arms  piled  high  with  merchan- 
dise, the  other  entering  with  eager  steps  to  make  selec- 
tion. The  stock  was  speedily  disappearing. 

Knowing  that  I was  personally  acquainted  with  the 
commander  and  possibly  had  influence  with  him,  don 
Angel  begged  me  to  notify  him  of  the  affair,  to  the 
end  that  he  would  intervene.  The  colonel  seemed 
annoyed  at  the  word  brought  him,  but  immediately 
excused  himself  and  accompanied  us  to  the  store. 
Entering,  he  began  a vigorous  protestation  against  the 
unauthorized  and  lawless  outrage.  The  men  listened 
sullenly,  then  with  audible  mutterings,  and  finally  men- 
acing handling  of  weapons,  seeing  which,  the  chief 
prudently  retired.  These  men  were  as  yet  totally 
ignorant  of  military  discipline  and  would  tolerate  no 
interference  with  their  taking  that  which  they  believed 
to  be  the  legitimate  spoils  of  war.  As  we  withdrew 
their  leader  acknowledged  to  me  in  low  tone  that  it 
would  imperil  his  life  to  press  his  authority  on  such  an 
occasion. 

One  should  not  think  of  these  revolutionists  as  sol- 
dierly in  appearance.  Later  in  the  struggle  some  had 
a semblance  of  uniform,  but  not  at  this  stage.  Nearly 
to  a man  they  were  dressed  in  coarsest  cowboy  cloth- 
ing and  wore  great  Mexican  sombreros,  making  them 
most  picturesque. 

The  day  following  the  taking  of  El  Valle  a notable 
change  of  apparel  was  seen.  With  few  exceptions,  the 
men  came  out  reclothed  from  sole  to  crown.  Many 
of  the  new  sombreros  were  very  expensive,  such  as 
the  wearers  had  never  owned  before.  Some  of  the 


134  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


suits  taken  from  the  clothing  houses  were  excellent 
“ fits.”  In  other  cases  exchanges  were  made  among 
the  boys  until  all  were  suited. 

The  revolution  came  to  El  Valle  as  a great  leveller. 
The  rich  were  relieved  of  their  superfluous  wealth, 
and  the  poor,  for  the  time  being,  at  least,  lived  in 
plenty.  Men  well  to  do  financially  and  not  known  to 
be  in  sympathy  with  the  revolution  were  called  upon 
to  contribute  heavily  to  the  cause  they  detested.  Sums 
of  $3,000,  $5,000,  or  $10,000  were  “squeezed”  from 
certain  individuals,  and  in  a few  cases  contributions 
of  large  size  were  repeatedly  demanded  of  the  same 
person. 

The  military  committee  soliciting  this  financial  aid 
were,  of  course,  friendly  in  their  approach  to  the 
moneyed  men  on  their  list.  The  business  was  con- 
ducted in  a courteous  way — yet  effectively.  The  citi- 
zens honoured  by  these  visits  could  usually  count  on 
the  outcome  as  being  either  the  cash  or  the  calaboose, 
and  they  could  take  their  choice.  Notes  were  duly 
given  in  return  for  these  “ loans,”  made  payable  on  the 
establishment  of  the  new  government. 

Men  favourable  to  the  revolution  were  also  asked 
to  assist  the  cause ; but  such  men  having  surplus  means 
were  not  common.  The  funds  obtained  by  this  method 
were  doubtless  for  the  most  part  expended  quite  legiti- 
mately in  providing  munitions  and  other  needs  of  the 
army. 

In  various  other  ways  besides  payments  of  cash 
might  a citizen  show  his  patriotism.  There  were 
“ loans  ” of  private  houses  for  soldiers’  quarters, 


EL  VALLE  “REVOLUTIONIZED” 


135 


“ loans  ” of  provisions  for  men  and  beasts.  Beans, 
flour,  corn,  alfalfa,  etc.,  were  “ contributed  ” in  wagon- 
load amounts  by  those  who  possessed  beyond  their 
own  immediate  needs.  One  man  “ loaned  ” his  grist- 
mill for  three  months,  and  from  all  the  country  about 
were  collected  “ loans  ” of  wheat.  The  product — thou- 
sands of  sacks  of  flour — was  sent  in  wagons  to  supply 
the  army  on  its  forward  march.  Horses  and  wagons 
were  requisitioned  to  haul  these  supplies.  These 
“ loans  ” are  still  to  be  repaid. 

In  the  army  commissariat  nothing  is  more  important 
than  beef.  The  Santa  Maria  valley  abounded  in  herds 
of  cattle.  Some  of  the  largest  owners  of  these  were 
non-residents — men  of  great  wealth — strong  support- 
ers of  the  Diaz  government,  and  therefore  unpopular 
with  the  masses. 

On  the  taking  of  El  Valle  the  matter  of  meat  supply 
not  only  for  the  soldiers  but  for  the  entire  population 
as  well  was  taken  in  charge  by  the  military.  A drove 
of  fat  beeves  from  these  large  herds  was  brought  in 
daily,  slaughtered  wherever  convenient — at  first  on  the 
main  streets — and  sold  to  the  townspeople  at  a very 
low  price.  This  helped  to  fill  the  treasury  of  the  revo- 
lutionists and  at  the  same  time  tended  to  make  them 
popular  with  the  common  people. 

Many  of  the  soldiers — although  not  all — soon  found 
quarters  with  private  families  all  through  the  city.  No 
money  was  tendered  for  board,  but  fresh  beef  was 
supplied  to  these  houses  in  prodigious  abundance.  In 
the  sacking  of  the  stores  quantities  of  groceries  were 
secured  by  the  men,  and  those  families  who  were  so 


136  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


fortunate  as  to  have  revolutionist  boarders  were  under 
no  necessity  of  buying  sugar,  coffee,  lard,  and  the  like 
for  some  time  to  come. 

The  soldiery  found  in  their  raids  numerous  articles 
which  by  no  possibility  could  they  apply  to  their  own 
use,  such  as  ladies’  gloves,  hosiery,  shoes,  embroidery, 
dress  goods,  and  loads  of  feminine  knickknacks.  Many 
a young  lady  might  have  married  with  the  outfit  pre- 
sented to  her  at  this  time,  and  many  poor  mothers 
and  children  went  better  dressed  that  year  than  ever 
before.  Money  was  never  so  plentiful  in  El  Valle  as 
under  the  regime  of  those  first  Maderistas.  It  was 
good  money,  too ; and  after  the  first  shocks  of  the  revo- 
lution had  passed  the  town  assumed  an  air  of  unwonted 
prosperity  and  gaiety — for  a time. 

The  days  of  greatest  anxiety  for  El  Valle  were  those 
when  the  city  was  in  imminent  danger  of  recapture  by 
the  superior  federal  forces  encamped  outside.  Such 
were  the  reports  of  atrocities  committed  by  the  fed- 
erals  that  the  citizens — still  unnerved  by  the  recent 
three  days’  fighting  on  the  streets — were  exceedingly 
alarmed.  Not  a few  families  hastily  piled  beds  and 
baggage,  pigs,  children,  chickens,  and  provisions  into 
their  carts  and  fled  the  town. 

For  many  families  at  that  time  the  Casa  Grande  be- 
came a house  of  refuge.  It  was  well  known  in  town 
that  the  commanders  of  both  opposing  factions  had 
issued  strict  orders  that  their  troops  should  guard 
against  the  molestation  of  foreigners,  and  particularly 
of  Americans. 

Over  the  great  front  entrance  of  our  house  during 


EL  VALLE  “ REVOLUTIONIZED  ” 


137 


those  days  waved  the  American  flag.  It  was  a small 
specimen  of  the  Stars  and  Stripes,  but  it  represented  a 
great  country.  And  so  the  week  following  the  evacu- 
ation of  the  Casa  Grande  by  the  Maderistas  saw  its 
reoccupation  by  frightened  Mexican  families  from 
both  sides  of  the  river.  As  possibility  changed  to  cer- 
tainty that  another  battle  for  the  possession  of  the 
town  was  pending,  these  people  came  flocking  with 
beds  and  food  supplies  and  begging  the  privilege  of 
encamping  within  our  walls. 

Through  such  experiences  as  these  the  relations  of 
friendship  were  strengthened  between  the  American 
ranchers  and  their  Mexican  neighbours. 


IV 

MADERO  AND  ANTI-MADERO 


DURING  the  month  of  February  (1911)  El 
Valle  was  without  even  the  form  of  civil  gov- 
ernment. Under  this  military  rule  no  one 
dared  to  say  that  his  property  was  his  own.  If  the 
army  needed  a ton  of  alfalfa  which  was  stored  in  a 
citizen’s  back  yard  and  a ton  of  flour  in  a merchant’s 
warehouse,  they  were  appropriated  for  “ the  country’s 
good,”  and  the  former  owners  were  handed  papers 

saying,  “ Received  from  ,”  etc.,  in  place  of  the 

goods  taken. 

This  ever-present  contingence  was  a cause  of  great 
anxiety  for  those  who  still  possessed  something  which 
might  be  demanded  for  patriotic  uses,  and  as  the  Casa 
Grande  was  exempt  from  search  and  its  owner  not 
liable  to  levies  of  this  kind,  many  of  the  neighbours 
desired  to  place  property  in  my  hands. 

“ Senor  Case,  I have  a bin  of  grain  here  which  I 
should  like  to  give  you.  We  have  only  to  arrange 
papers  showing  that  you  are  the  legal  owner,  but  you 
are  to  pay  me  nothing,  and  some  time  we  will  settle 
the  matter  between  us.”  Much  as  I sympathized  with 
this  friend,  his  generous  offer  was  declined.  At  an- 
other time  a poorer  neighbour  came  begging  permis- 
sion to  store  his  little  crop  of  beans  in  my  granary.  I 

138 


MADERO  AND  ANTI-MADERO 


139 


did  not  refuse.  Aside  from  liability  of  this  nature,  or- 
derly disposed  persons  were  as  secure  under  military 
rule  as  in  ordinary  times,  but  conditions  were  peculiarly 
perilous  for  the  lawbreaker.  Military  discipline  was 
also  becoming  very  strict.  At  dawn  one  morning  a 
rifle  volley  was  heard  at  one  edge  of  the  city.  A mem- 
ber of  the  troop  fell,  shot  by  his  own  comrades.  This 
man  had  waylaid  the  parish  priest  and  picked  his 
pocket.  Another  civilian  had  also  complained  against 
him  for  a similar  offence.  His  summary  death  was  a 
warning  to  others. 

At  the  outbreak  of  the  revolution  Madero  was  on 
the  Texas  border.  Hearing  of  the  successful  uprising 
in  the  Guerrero  district  he  crossed  into  Mexico  to  join 
his  men. 

At  noon,  on  March  first,  the  “ Supreme  Chief  ” 
with  his  little  army  entered  El  Valle  under  escort  of 
our  own  garrison,  which  had  sallied  to  meet  him.  It 
was  a notable  day  for  the  rural  valley  town.  The  man 
whose  name  had  been  for  weeks  on  every  tongue  was 
received  not  only  with  great  military  pomp,  but  with 
evident  satisfaction  by  our  citizens.  The  plaza  and 
the  streets  leading  to  it  were  swarming  with  people. 
Men,  women,  and  children  were  eager  to  catch  their 
first  glimpse  of  the  new  leader. 

Madero  was  accompanied  by  about  three  hundred 
men,  among  whom  were  sixty  Americans — young  fel- 
lows whom  he  had  attracted  to  his  cause.  Garibaldi, 
a nephew  of  the  famous  Italian  patriot,  was  also  one 
of  his  attaches.  In  his  company  was  don  Abram  Gon- 
zales, the  provisional  governor  of  Chihuahua,  who  im- 


140  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


pressed  us  all  as  an  able,  honest,  and  lovable  man.  His 
cowardly  murder  during  the  Huerta  regime  caused 
universal  indignation  in  our  state. 

Madero,  confident  of  success,  had  even  now  assumed 
the  title  of  " Presidente  Provisional  de  la  Refniblica.” 
Under  these  two  men  civil  government  in  our  imme- 
diate region  was  reorganized.  National  reforms  were 
promised  to  our  people.  Encouragement  was  given  to 
important  local  enterprises  and  especial  attention  was 
called  to  the  necessity  of  an  extended  and  improved 
educational  system.  The  stimulus  given  in  this  direc- 
tion resulted  almost  immediately  in  the  erection  of  a 
new  school  building  in  a neglected  part  of  our  city. 

Madero  remained  but  one  week  in  El  Valle,  but  in 
those  few  days  he  won  for  himself  the  confidence  and 
the  esteem  of  all  classes.  Even  those  who  had  strongly 
opposed  the  reform  movement  were  not  backward  in 
their  protestations  of  friendship  for  its  leader. 

My  connection  with  his  wounded  soldiers  gave  me 
opportunity  for  personal  acquaintance,  and  in  describ- 
ing this  now  lamented  chief  I may  not  do  better  than 
to  quote  from  a note  written  soon  after  meeting  him : 

“ Francisco  I.  Madero  is  under  forty  years  of  age, 
of  blonde  complexion,  slight  of  stature — even  insig- 
nificant looking,  but  for  his  noble  head.  He  speaks 
English  well;  is  warmly  favourable  to  the  Protestant 
religion.  He  is  a forceful  speaker,  always  brief  and 
to  the  point,  as  appears  in  his  public  addresses,  both  to 
citizens  and  to  the  troops.  He  impresses  me  as  a man 
of  high  ideals.  He  certainly  shows  a fine  type  of 
courage,  and  no  one  can  doubt  his  kindliness  of  heart.” 


MADERO  AND  ANTI-MADERO 


141 


Yet  Madero  did  not  impress  me  as  a great  man. 
What  he  might  have  accomplished  for  his  people  had 
they  given  him  the  opportunity  the  world  will  never 
know.  His  ideals  and  methods  were  much  in  advance 
of  the  times  and  conditions  in  his  unhappy  country. 
The  opposition  which  resulted  in  his  overthrow  was 
clearly  unjust,  and  unquestionably  his  will  be  a perma- 
nent place  among  Mexico’s  national  heroes. 

On  his  departure  from  our  city  Madero  took  with 
him  the  El  Valle  garrison,  together  with  many  new 
recruits  from  among  the  valley  ranchmen.  For  nearly 
a year,  with  the  restoration  of  civil  government  and  a 
small  home  guard,  our  people  enjoyed  peace.  Free- 
dom from  military  molestation  and  immunity  from  the 
irritating  levies  restored  confidence  and  contentment, 
in  spite  of  the  disturbed  conditions  beyond  our  valley 
which  interrupted  commercial  intercourse  and  postal 
communication  with  the  outside  world. 

The  anti-Madero  revolt — which  was  becoming  wide- 
spread in  1912 — burst  upon  El  Valle  with  bewildering 
suddenness.  Not  that  our  city  authorities  proved 
treacherous  or  that  any  considerable  number  of  our 
citizens  were  disaffected.  They  were  not. 

But  one  morning — soon  after  the  election  which 
placed  Madero  in  the  presidency — El  Valle  awoke  to 
find  herself  under  a government  openly  hostile  to  the 
new  president.  So  secret  had  been  the  plotting  and 
so  thorough  had  been  the  organization  and  arming  of 
a small  minority  that  an  entirely  bloodless,  but  com- 
plete, revolution  took  place  in  the  night.  There  was 
no  fighting;  the  day  simply  opened  with  the  former 


142  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


city  officials  in  the  lockup  and  new  men  in  their 
places. 

The  position  of  the  new  authorities  was  made  secure 
by  the  presence  of  their  own  military,  a small  body, 
but  abundantly  able  to  control  the  situation.  There 
was  no  immediate  probability  that  the  Madero  govern- 
ment would  be  able  to  send  a force  to  our  relief. 

For  years  I had  known  with  some  intimacy  the 
leaders  of  this  uprising.  While  not  members  of  our 
mission  church,  they  had  often  attended  its  services. 
They  believed  that  my  sympathies  had  been  with  the 
Madero  revolution,  and  on  the  first  day  of  the  new 
government  an  armed  deputation  representing  it  ap- 
peared at  the  Casa  Grande  demanding  aid — horses, 
arms,  money,  whatever  I might  be  disposed  to  con- 
tribute. “ Our  cause  is  the  same  as  that  of  one  year 
ago,”  they  said.  “ Madero  has  deceived  us.  He  does 
not  fulfil  his  pledges.  He  has  climbed  into  the  presi- 
dential chair  and  now  allows  things  to  go  on  in  the 
same  old  way.  We  have  still  to  fight  this  thing  through 
in  order  to  gain  our  rights.” 

I replied,  “ But  you  are  not  giving  Madero  time. 
He  has  only  just  entered  office  and  his  reforms  cannot 
be  effected  in  a day.  In  any  case,  you  should  resort 
to  reasoning  and  to  the  ballot  rather  than  to  arms  so 
soon.”  They  were  not  convinced.  However,  my 
right  to  neutrality  as  an  American  citizen  was  re- 
spected. The  request  for  assistance  was  not  pressed 
and  the  new  officers  remained  friendly. 

Except  for  a brief  period — when  El  Valle  was  cap- 
tured by  a passing  troop  of  Maderistas — this  faction 


MADERO  AND  ANTI-MADERO 


143 


continued  in  control  some  nine  months.  The  leaders, 
being  of  our  own  citizens,  were  disposed  to  run  the 
government  fairly  and  so  win  popular  favour  with  the 
townspeople.  But  the  anti-Madero  revolt,  gaining  mo- 
mentum in  the  region  about  us,  began  to  affect  our 
peaceful  local  conditions,  and  El  Valle  now  entered 
upon  a long  period  of  almost  intolerable  suffering. 
Our  own  authorities,  in  sympathy  with  that  revolt, 
could  not  refuse  it  assistance. 

After  the  wheat  harvest  in  June  heavy  levies  were 
made  upon  our  valley  ranchers.  Few  of  them  escaped 
without  contributing  one-fourth  or  one-half  their 
year’s  crop  to  the  insurgent  cause,  with  which  few 
of  them  had  sympathy.  The  Casa  Grande,  how- 
ever, was  still  unmolested,  and  for  several  months 
about  one  thousand  pesos’  worth  of  others’  har- 
vests was  permitted  storage  there,  at  the  owners’ 
risk. 

In  July,  after  the  defeat  of  Orozco  south  of  Chi- 
huahua, his  army  of  some  ten  thousand  men,  broken 
into  small  independent  bands,  retreated  hastily  to  our 
mountainous  frontier.  Several  of  these  bands,  one 
after  the  other,  passed  through  El  Valle  in  their  line 
of  retreat  and  halted  with  us  a few  days  for  the  laying 
in  of  supplies.  These  men  came  to  us  sore  and  ill- 
tempered  from  recent  defeat,  fatigued  from  long 
marching,  and  in  desperate  need  of  provisions.  They 
were  supposed  to  be  mounted,  but  the  horses  of  many 
had  fallen  by  the  way,  and  the  mounts  of  many  others 
were  disabled. 

Our  people,  already  greatly  impoverished  from  the 


144  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


revolution  of  the  year  before,  gave  free  entertainment 
to  these  men  during  their  stay,  provender  was  pro- 
vided for  their  horses,  and  on  their  departure  fresh 
beasts  were  provided  from  the  best  the  valley  afforded, 
and  tons  of  provisions  were  despatched  with  each  troop 
for  its  future  need. 

The  first  of  these  visitations  came  upon  El  Valle 
as  an  affliction,  grievous  to  bear,  yet  received  with 
thankfulness  when  past,  and  with  prayers  that  it  might 
not  be  repeated.  The  second  visitation,  coming  a few 
days  later,  was  looked  upon  in  the  light  of  a disaster, 
and  the  third,  which  soon  followed,  was  a calamity. 
These  armed  bands,  having  no  other  way  of  supplying 
their  imperative  needs,  came  upon  the  community  like 
quickly  succeeding  blasts  of  a great  storm.  No  oppor- 
tunity was  given  to  recover  from  one  onset  before 
another  was  upon  us. 

This  despoiling  of  an  already  oft-pillaged  people 
was  the  more  difficult  to  endure  from  the  fact  that  the 
looters  represented  a political  movement  thoroughly 
detested  by  the  great  majority  of  our  citizens.  The 
people  were  loyal  to  President  Madero : the  ravaging 
troops  were  bent  upon  his  overthrow. 

A band  of  three  hundred  under  Gen.  J.  J.  Campos 
had  orders  that  every  man  should  secure  a fresh  horse 
in  addition  to  the  one  already  in  use,  so  as  to  have  a 
change  for  rapid  marching.  Every  man  was  author- 
ized to  appropriate  for  himself  any  animal  which 
might  suit  him,  wherever  it  might  be  found,  and  there 
occurred  at  once  a scramble  among  the  three  hundred 
to  see  which  should  obtain  the  best  mounts.  On  the 


MADERO  AND  ANTI-MADERO 


145 


morning  of  the  first  day,  both  in  town  and  at  the 
ranches  outside,  armed  men  were  hurrying  here  and 
there  laying  hands  on  horses.  Farmers  driving  their 
wagons  were  halted  on  the  road.  One  horse  was  taken 
and  the  other  was  left — if  inferior!  Our  neighbours 
engaged  in  their  ploughing  were  likewise  served.  Many 
a rancher  was  left  destitute  of  work  animals,  while 
saddle  beasts  were  still  more  scarce.  Those  were  days 
when  even  our  best  citizens  went  afoot  or  ventured 
forth  only  on  most  skeleton-like  nags,  with  disrepu- 
table accoutrements,  for  good  saddles  were  especially 
coveted,  and  those  who  still  possessed  them  kept  them 
well  secreted.  Not  only  were  horses  and  saddles  ap- 
propriated, but  nothing  needful  to  the  troop  was  left 
behind. 

The  Casa  Grande,  heretofore  strangely  free  from 
molestation,  now  began  to  suffer  from  these  predatory 
incursions,  and  only  by  maintaining  a firm  stand  for 
our  rights  as  American  citizens  were  we  able  to  escape 
ruinous  losses.  It  was  strange  that  our  orchard  with 
its  tempting  fruit  had  not  been  disturbed  by  the  scores 
of  armed  men  daily  seen  upon  the  premises.  Many 
were  the  honest  buyers  and  the  few  who  respectfully 
asked  without  money  received.  One  day  three  men 
entered  at  the  rear  of  the  orchard,  and  taking  pains 
that  their  guns  should  be  seen,  began  boldly  filling 
their  sacks  with  ripe  pears  from  a tree  near  the  house. 
Such  impudent  robbery  could  not  take  place  without 
protestation.  Some  plain  words  were  addressed  the 
thieves  by  the  man  of  the  house  as  he  approached 
them,  and  a pistol  shot  replied.  But,  in  a moment. 


146  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


the  parties  were  face  to  face,  and  a vigorous  con- 
versation ensued.  An  appeal  was  made  to  the  honour 
of  the  men,  and  to  the  consequences  should  the  inci- 
dent reach  the  ear  of  their  commander.  The  would-be 
robbers  changed  their  minds,  cheerfully  paid  for  their 
fruit,  received  some  sound  advice  and  a Gospel  each, 
and  departed  in  a friendly  mood.  The  orchard  was 
not  soon  again  molested. 

The  day  following  the  arrival  of  the  Campos 
band  my  cowboy  came  to  me  in  much  excite- 
ment and  said,  “ Senor,  there  are  men  taking  horses 
from  your  pasture ! ” I started  at  once  for  the  pasture 
gate,  some  two  hundred  yards  away,  and  arrived  just 
in  time  to  see  them  leading  out  my  two  best  mares. 
There  were  ten  or  twelve  rough-looking  men,  well 
mounted,  and  well  armed.  Several  of  our  faithful 
Mexicans  had  followed  me — of  course,  unarmed. 
Stepping  boldly  in  front  of  the  first  man  I asked  what 
he  was  doing  with  the  horse.  “ Is  she  yours  ? ” he 
inquired.  “ Yes,  my  friend,  she  is  mine,  and  you 
may  hand  me  the  rope.”  Without  a word  of  protest 
he  surrendered  the  animal.  Going  to  the  other  man 
I demanded  the  fine  creature  he  was  leading,  which 
he  at  once  delivered,  remarking  that  he  did  not  know 
she  was  mine. 

Later  in  the  day  a bunch  of  these  men  came  to  the 
house  determined  to  take  other  horses  which  were  kept 
in  the  stables.  I persuaded  them  to  delay  until  I 
could  see  their  commander.  Mounting  a horse  I rode 
to  town  and  was  admitted  to  the  general’s  quarters. 
Introducing  myself,  I informed  him  of  the  situation. 


MADERO  AND  ANTI-MADERO  147 

He  listened  respectfully,  seated  himself  at  the  table, 
wrote  the  following  order  and  handed  it  to  me: 

“ To  all  the  Laguneros  * under  my  command:  You 
are  hereby  directed  not  to  molest  in  any  way  the 
American — bearer  of  this  note — but  are  commanded 
to  assist  him  in  every  way  possible,  as  is  your  duty  to 
a foreigner.  In  case  you  have  taken  any  animal  from 
him,  you  are  obliged  to  restore  it. 

“(Signed)  J.  J.  Campos.” 

With  this  in  my  possession  I returned  home  and  dis- 
missed the  marauders  without  difficulty.  I had,  how- 
ever, little  occasion  to  show  the  order,  which  was  held 
as  a last  resort. 

On  this  same  day,  between  the  plaza  and  my  home, 
two  more  horse  hunters  were  encountered.  One  of 
them  stopped  me,  saying,  “ That  is  a very  good  beast 
you  have  there.”  “Yes,”  I said,  “but  he  is  mine.” 
“ That  makes  no  difference,”  he  answered ; “ and  that 
saddle  you  have  is  all  right.”  “ Yes,”  I replied, 
“ but  I shall  keep  it  myself.”  I did  so,  but  my  cow- 
boy that  day  had  his  saddle  taken  from  under  him, 
being  considerately  given  a miserable  one  in  its  place. 

After  two  weeks  of  daily  depredations  the  Lagu- 
neros withdrew  from  the  valley,  seemingly  highly  con- 
tented with  their  accumulation  of  spoils.  Among  the 
hundreds  of  fine  saddle  beasts  going  out  in  their  com- 
pany was  the  Casa  Grande’s  choicest  one,  which  was 
treacherously  seized  at  the  last  moment. 

* From  the  lagoon  district  in  Durango. 


148  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


From  El  Valle  the  troop  went  on  to  Madera.  Arriv- 
ing at  this  city,  every  man  was  permitted  to  sell  his 
extra  mount.  Naturally,  the  market  was  flooded,  yet, 
being  offered  at  low  prices,  all  of  the  animals  were 
sold.  After  the  band  had  withdrawn  from  Madera — 
very  early  one  morning — it  was  discovered  that  all  of 
the  purchased  horses  had  likewise  disappeared.  Each 
man  had  stolen  back  his  own! 

The  unenviable  experiences  of  our  city  were  dupli- 
cated, with  variation  of  detail,  in  all  the  surrounding 
towns.  Even  more  serious  devastation  was  wrought 
in  some  of  them.  The  first  year  of  revolution  was 
serious  enough.  The  second  year  saw  vastly  more 
suffering,  and  the  end  was  not  yet. 

What  thrilling  months  were  those : the  alarms,  the 
disorder,  the  molestation  of  families,  the  looting  of 
houses,  the  wholesale  robberies,  the  imprisonment  of 
prominent  men  and  demand  of  a round  sum  for  their 
liberation,  the  paralysis  of  business,  the  suspension  of 
ordinary  administration  of  law  and  of  schools  and 
religious  services,  the  stoppage  of  the  mails  for  months 
at  a time,  the  making  of  all  travel  and  commerce  ex- 
ceedingly perilous — these  were  among  the  inconven- 
iences of  living  in  revolutionary  Mexico. 


V 


CONDITIONS— JOURNEYS  BY  DAY  AND  BY 
NIGHT 

NOTWITHSTANDING  the  wholesale  and  oft- 
repeated  robberies  in  the  valley,  there  was  at 
no  time  danger  of  starvation.  Nor  did  there 
ever  occur  even  a scarcity  of  flour,  corn,  or  beans.  In 
ordinary  years  all  of  these  commodities  were  exported 
in  vast  quantities,  as  were  also  beef  cattle;  and  of  these 
great  herds  still  pastured  on  the  ranges. 

In  spite  of  all  these  outrages  our  farmers  continued 
to  plant  and  cultivate  and  gather  in  their  harvests — 
except  as  they  were  gathered  for  them ! The  unfortu- 
nate ones  who  had  lost  work  animals  were  able  to 
obtain  others,  for  there  yet  roamed  in  the  region  thou- 
sands of  untamed  horses.  At  first  no  one  supposed 
the  revolution  would  last  through  the  year,  and  when 
it  still  persisted  there  was  always  hope  that  the  end 
would  come  soon. 

The  public  schools  resumed  their  work  in  the  inter- 
vals of  quiet,  and  the  churches  were  again  open.  Dur- 
ing the  months  of  constant  hospital  activity  formal 
services  in  the  Protestant  chapel  were  suspended,  and 
on  the  reopening  of  doors  there  appeared  among  the 
worshippers  a number  of  our  wounded  men,  now  suffi- 
ciently recovered  to  venture  out.  While  under  hos- 

149 


150  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


pital  care  there  had  been  opportunity  to  interest  them 
in  spiritual  things  and  they  wished  to  learn  more  of 
the  new  faith.  All  of  these  men  on  reentering  the 
ranks  carried  with  them  a Bible,  a New  Testament, 
or  a Gospel. 

The  El  Valle  farmers  were  drawn  closer  together 
through  their  trying  experiences.  No  grumbling  was 
heard.  Men  smiled  as  they  related  to  each  other  their 
losses.  They  loaned  to  one  another,  cheered,  and 
assisted  one  another.  After  all  the  plundering  there 
still  remained  in  El  Valle  hundreds  of  tons  of  produce 
to  sell.  But  here  difficulty  was  encountered.  The 
roads  leading  to  the  markets — the  railroad  station  and 
Chihuahua  City — were  never  free  from  armed  bodies 
of  men.  For  months  in  succession  all  travel  was 
perilous,  and  particularly  was  this  the  case  with 
wagons  carrying  produce  or  merchandise  of  any  kind. 

As  reports  reached  us  of  the  holding  up  and  con- 
fiscation of  such  wagons,  or  of  horse  and  saddle  being 
taken  from  the  venturesome  wayfarer,  or  of  the  un- 
fortunate foot  traveller  arriving  at  his  destination 
minus  money  and  coat,  travel  in  every  form  was  soon 
suspended. 

For  several  months  after  our  valley  towns  had 
passed  into  the  hands  of  the  Maderistas  the  region 
about  us  remained  in  possession  of  the  federals. 
Nueva  Casas  Grandes,  our  railway  station,  was  gar- 
risoned by  a very  superior  force  of  government  troops, 
and  El  Valle,  therefore,  was  completely  shut  off  from 
markets  where  her  farmers  might  dispose  of  their 
produce,  or  where  her  merchants  might  obtain  goods 


JOURNEYS  BY  DAY  AND  BY  NIGHT  151 


for  replenishing  their  stores.  It  will  be  recalled  that 
on  the  taking  of  El  Valle  some  of  these  stores  were 
completely  cleaned  out  and  others  seriously  broken  up. 

This,  then,  was  the  situation:  while  the  prices  of 
corn,  meat,  and  beans  went  down,  the  prices  of  salt, 
sugar,  and  coffee  went  up,  together  with  those  of  all 
goods  obtained  from  outside.  Continuing  to  rise,  the 
prices  of  many  articles  finally  disappeared,  until  no 
money  could  buy  sugar,  salt,  or  coffee. 

If  anything  tries  the  soul  of  a Mexican  it  is  a coffee- 
less breakfast.  But  even  that  was  more  endurable 
than  beans  and  beef  day  in,  day  out,  and  week  after 
week  without  salt.  One  could  much  better  afford  to 
go  without  his  horse.  People  visited  their  neighbours, 
seeking  to  borrow,  trying  one,  then  another,  until  dis- 
heartened. Ranchers  from  miles  away  came  to  the 
Casa  Grande  begging  us  to  sell  or  to  loan  a cup  of 
sugar,  a spoonful  of  salt,  a spool  of  thread,  or  a few 
matches.  (In  one  of  these  periods  of  privation  we 
supplied  ourselves  and  our  immediate  neighbours  with 
salt  refined  from  supplies  which  had  been  thrown  out 
for  the  cattle;  and  our  necessary  sweetening  was  sup- 
plied by  opening,  as  needed,  a jar  of  preserves.) 

The  time  came  when  there  was  imperative  need  of 
hospital  supplies — antiseptics,  absorbent  cotton,  and 
chloroform  for  a leg  amputation  which  could  not  be 
delayed,  etc.  Some  delicate  articles  of  diet  for  our 
patients  were  also  needed.  The  military  commander 
to  whom  I made  known  the  situation  failed  to  find  a 
man  in  his  troop  who  cared  to  undertake  the  exceed- 
ingly risky  trip  to  Nueva  Casas  Grandes,  even  dis- 


152  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


guised  as  a civilian.  He  had  been  wishing  to  send  a 
man  to  bring  information  as  to  the  enemy’s  strength, 
but  spies  too  often  failed  to  return. 

It  occurred  to  me  that  under  existing  conditions  an 
American  might  make  that  expedition  with  less  risk 
than  a Mexican,  and  I said  to  Captain  Flores,  “ With 
your  approval,  I will  go  for  our  hospital  supplies.” 

“ When  will  you  be  ready  to  start?  ” 

“ In  three  hours.” 

It  was  necessary  for  me  to  arrange  my  hospital 
affairs  for  two  or  three  days’  absence,  go  to  the  Casa 
Grande,  and  have  my  best  team  put  in  condition  for  a 
speedy  journey.  I expected  my  wife  to  oppose  the 
project.  She  did  not,  but  simply  said,  “ I am  going 
with  you.”  She  believed  that  the  trip  would  be  safer 
for  me  if  made  in  her  company,  and  persuaded  me  to 
see  the  matter  in  the  same  light. 

The  captain  had  desired  me  to  call  on  him  before 
starting,  that  he  might  give  me  a passport  and  a final 
word.  Knowing  that  he  wished  to  gain  information 
as  to  the  enemy,  into  whose  camp  I was  going,  I men- 
tally resolved  to  take  no  commission  from  him  which 
might  compromise  me.  On  presenting  myself  the 
commander  said  that  on  the  whole  I would  be  safer 
without  a passport  from  him,  as  such  a paper  found 
on  my  person  by  the  federals  would  only  cause  me 
trouble,  while  passing  Maderistas,  if  encountered, 
would  not  molest  me.  “ And  I have  no  instructions 
whatever  to  give  you.”  This  was  said  in  a voice  in- 
tended for  the  men  outside  to  understand.  At  the 
same  time  the  officer’s  gestures — such  as  only  a 


JOURNEYS  BY  DAY  AND  BY  NIGHT  153 


Mexican  can  make — said  impressively,  “ Keep  your 
eyes  open ! ” 

The  spring-wagon  which  rolled  along  the  down-river 
road  that  afternoon  carried  a very  ordinary-appearing 
old  rancher  and  his  very  ordinary-appearing  old  wife. 
Not  a soul  was  encountered  before  nightfall,  and  after 
driving  for  a time  by  starlight,  camp  was  made  among 
the  wayside  bushes.  Soon  after  midnight  we  were 
again  on  the  road.  Galeana  was  passed  in  the  dark- 
ness, with  only  the  salute  of  barking  dogs.  Another 
halt  was  made  for  breakfast — quick  camp  fire  and  hot 
coffee.  We  were  now  on  the  crest  of  Chocolate  Pass: 
three  more  hours  would  complete  our  fifty  miles  and 
bring  us  to  the  station.  What  a deserted  road  it  was ! 
Usually  much  frequented,  even  signs  of  recent  traffic 
had  disappeared.  Yet,  while  the  continual  scene  of 
abandonment  depressed  us,  it  was  with  decided  relief 
that  we  left  league  after  league  of  absolutely  solitary 
way  behind  us.  The  cattle  quietly  grazing  to  the 
right  and  left  were  pleasant  companions,  as  were  the 
occasional  coyotes.  Human  beings  we  did  not  wish 
to  encounter — at  least,  armed  horsemen. 

By  ten  in  the  morning  we  were  nearing  our  desti- 
nation. On  the  flat  roof  of  the  depot  building  we 
distinguished  sentinels  pacing  back  and  forth,  scruti- 
nizing every  point  of  the  compass.  They  were  in  dark- 
blue  uniform  and  represented  the  authority  of  the 
established  government.  The  farmer’s  rig,  although 
approaching  on  an  unfrequented  road  and  from  a sus- 
picious direction,  apparently  attracted  no  attention. 
The  wearied  ponies  entered  the  streets  and  found  their 


154  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


way  through  groups  of  soldiers  to  their  usual  stop- 
ping place  with  their  everyday  air  of  honesty.  It  was 
seen  that  the  rustic  parties  were  Americans — probably 
Mormons — bent  on  their  own  business,  and  to  our 
immense  relief  not  a hand  was  lifted  to  detain  us,  or 
even  an  inquiry  made. 

During  lunch  in  our  cafe  there  sat  at  a near-by  table 
a group  of  army  officers  in  showy  uniform.  They 
were  superior-looking  men,  conversing  freely  of  their 
own  affairs,  and  courteously  non-inquisitive  as  to  ours. 
The  purchases  were  satisfactorily  made,  and  in  addi- 
tion to  the  hospital  supplies  our  load  included  some 
sacks  of  sugar,  coffee,  and  salt. 

It  was  toward  evening  when  our  ponies  set  their 
faces  homeward.  There  were  many  sentries  to  pass. 
Would  it  be  possible  for  us  to  leave  town  unchallenged? 
Happily,  the  last  guard  was  left  in  the  rear  and  no  one 
had  asked,  “ Who  are  you?  Where  are  you  going?  ” 

One  incident  alone  caused  us  momentary  concern 
before  reaching  our  camping-place.  The  dusk  was 
deepening  when  on  looking  ahead  we  were  startled  by 
what  appeared  to  be  a considerable  body  of  horsemen 
approaching.  “ Now,”  we  said,  softly,  to  ourselves, 
“ we  shall  surely  be  stopped  and  searched  and  ordered 
back  to  the  officers’  quarters.”  Still,  our  only  course 
was  to  drive  forward.  As  we  did  so  and  the  dark 
objects  considerately  turned  to  give  us  a free  road,  we 
perceived  that  we  were  face  to  face  with — some  thirty 
fine  cows ! Who  can  picture  our  relief  on  seeing  those 
soldiers  instantly  transformed  into  innocent  four- 
legged animals  ? Surely  we  had  never  seen  such  hand- 


JOURNEYS  BY  DAY  AND  BY  NIGHT  155 


some  cows ! As  we  drove  on  our  hearts  went  out  to 
them  with  real  affection. 

Before  noon  of  the  following  day  we  arrived  in 
El  Valle,  having  accomplished  our  journey  without 
the  slightest  molestation.  For  a few  days,  at  least, 
the  community  was  supplied  with  salt,  and  many 
neighbours  again  enjoyed  the  taste  of  sugar  and  coffee. 

As  hospital  duties  grew  lighter  upon  me  and  road 
conditions  continued  desperate  I was  besieged  by 
friends  earnestly  requesting  me  to  make  another  jour- 
ney to  the  station.  “ We  cannot  go,”  they  said. 
“ You,  an  American,  incur  no  danger.”  They  were 
hungering  for  the  provisions  which  would  be  furnished 
them  at  little  above  cost. 

Other  journeys  were  therefore  undertaken,  some- 
times with  my  own  home  companion  and  best  pro- 
tector, at  other  times  alone.  (The  presence  of  a 
Mexican  would  have  compromised  me.)  By  the  ad- 
vice of  the  authorities,  these  travels  were  mostly  made 
at  night.  As  time  passed  Nueva  Casas  Grandes  fell 
into  the  hands  of  the  same  faction  which  controlled 
El  Valle.  But  even  then  the  roving  bands — some  of 
them  nothing  less  than  highwaymen — rendered  travel 
no  less  dangerous  than  before. 

Under  these  circumstances  twelve  different  trips 
were  made,  usually  in  the  spring-wagon,  instead  of 
a heavier  one,  for  the  sake  of  speedier  travel.  The 
average  value  of  my  loads  was  $300. 

Of  these  trips  I have  absolutely  no  loss  of  supplies, 
or  even  serious  incident  to  report.  Yet  they  were  not 
without  many  thrilling  experiences,  and  the  preserva- 


156  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


tion  from  harm  through  them  all  we  shall  always  re- 
gard as  something  more  than  good  fortune. 

At  one  time,  while  driving  alone  in  the  night  I 
came  upon  a large  party  of  “ Red-flaggers  ” (op- 
posers  of  Madero).  They  were  encamped  by  the 
roadside.  On  approaching,  I was  commanded  to  halt : 
many  questions  were  asked,  which  were  answered 
without  evasion.  To  my  surprise,  I was  respectfully 
told  to  pass  on. 

Again — travelling  this  time  by  day — I met  one  of 
the  retreating  armies,  of  which  mention  has  been 
made.  One  should  not  imagine  that  the  men  were  in 
marching  order.  They  were  scattered  over  thirty 
miles  of  road.  From  morning  until  late  at  night  I 
encountered  them,  a dozen  here,  a larger  bunch  fur- 
ther on,  now  one  by  himself,  now  four  or  five.  The 
day  was  hot ; the  road  dusty ; water  was  scarce.  The 
men  were  in  ill-humoured  retreat.  I carried  pro- 
visions of  the  kind  they  sorely  needed.  They  had 
encountered  no  other  such  prize  that  day,  for  no  other 
wagons  were  out.  For  nearly  an  hour  before  meet- 
ing the  foremost  stragglers  I had  comprehended  the 
situation;  for  the  eye  was  able  to  take  in  many  miles 
of  that  treeless  plain  and  the  sight  which  was  presented 
naturally  inspired  uneasiness.  For  my  personal  safety 
I had  little  to  fear,  but  what  of  the  supplies?  Surely 
everything  would  be  taken  from  me.  Yet  I reached 
home  at  the  expected  hour  with  the  load  entire. 

• Once  and  again,  however,  I was  stopped  by  the 
eager  inquiry,  " No  trae  agua?  ” — Haven’t  you  wa- 
ter? As  long  as  I had,  I gladly  gave.  On  meeting 


JOURNEYS  BY  DAY  AND  BY  NIGHT  157 


another  group  would  come  the  question,  “ Have  you 
no  fruit  ? ” I was  sorry  that  I had  not,  but  cheerfully 
distributed  my  generous  lunch  among  the  men,  some 
on  one  side  and  some  on  the  other  side  of  the  wagon. 
How  may  one  account  for  the  fact  that  many  hun- 
dreds of  such  men  passed  me  that  day  with  no  dis- 
courteous word,  no  question  as  to  the  merchandise 
I carried,  or  the  slightest  molestation? 

At  another  time  I was  relieved  of  a somewhat  ex- 
pensive raincoat  which  protected  the  sacks  of  sugar 
behind  my  seat.  Four  men,  unusually  well  mounted, 
came  galloping  up  the  road  in  my  rear.  On  over- 
taking me  two  remained  behind,  while  two  rode  to 
my  side  and  engaged  me  in  conversation.  Suddenly 
the  men  at  the  rear  put  spurs  to  their  horses  and 
flew  by  in  a cloud  of  dust.  The  other  two,  nodding 
me  a hasty  farewell,  accompanied  their  fellows.  On 
glancing  behind  I perceived  that  the  raincoat  was 
gone — nothing  more — and  I did  not  feel  unlike  join- 
ing those  fellows  in  the  laugh  which  they  were  surely 
having  at  my  expense. 

One  morning,  during  the  long  and  trying  period  of 
no  mail  service,  we  were  happily  astonished  by  the 
arrival  of  a daughter  from  the  States.  Not  being  able 
to  endure  longer  the  uncertainty  as  to  the  parents’ 
safety,  she  had  braved  the  perils  of  the  journey  to 
them,  riding  the  last  fifty  miles  on  horseback  in  the 
company  of  a trusty  Mexican.  Travel,  at  that  time 
far  from  safe,  became  worse  during  the  weeks  of  her 
stay.  Bands  of  highwaymen  infested  the  region  be- 
tween us  and  the  railroad,  and  only  the  urgent  necec 


158  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


gity  of  her  return  caused  us  at  last  to  risk  the  trip. 
Our  city  mayor  gave  us  passports  and  private,  im- 
portant advice  as  to  method  of  travel.  Arriving  at 
Galeana,  we  found  that  three  bandits  had  been  hung 
that  day  in  their  streets,  and  that  the  friendly  Made- 
rista  troop  which  was  effecting  this  “ cleaning  up,”  had 
but  just  taken  up  its  march  over  our  own  road  to 
the  station.  Following  now  in  its  rear,  and  also 
under  cover  of  darkness  and  an  autumn  rain,  we 
arrived  with  no  untoward  incident. 

There  occurred  periods  when  travel  seemed  attended 
with  so  much  less  risk  that  general  communication 
with  the  outside  would  become  in  a measure  re- 
established. Our  farmers  then  ventured  to  haul  their 
produce  to  the  railroad  market  and,  in  turn,  purchase 
their  own  supplies.  Yet  conditions  were  at  all  times 
“ subject  to  change  without  notice,”  and  new  reports 
of  raiding  would  again  sweep  the  highway  clear  of 
traffic. 

In  the  fall  of  1912  I undertook  to  market  my  own 
ingathering,  with  the  idea  of  our  passing  a part  of 
the  winter  in  California.  I started  out  late  one  after- 
noon with  two  wagons,  taking  with  me  Bernabe,  one 
of  my  Mexican  boys.  At  dusk  we  halted  for  re- 
freshments, intending  to  drive  the  greater  part  of 
the  night.  While  sitting  beside  the  cheery  camp  fire, 
finishing  our  coffee,  we  were  startled  to  see  emerging 
from  the  darkness  two  decidedly  brigandish-looking 
men.  Their  rifles  were  held  in  such  a way  as  to  fore- 
stall any  movement  of  resistance  on  our  part — which, 
of  course,  we  did  not  think  to  make.  I at  once  called 


JOURNEYS  BY  DAY  AND  BY  NIGHT  159 


out  a hearty  " Buenas  noches  ” — Good-evening — and 
invited  them  to  the  fire.  They  paid  little  attention  to 
my  salutation,  but  remaining  about  twenty  feet  distant, 
asked  where  I came  from  and  where  I was  going. 
Then,  placing  a hand  on  the  loaded  sacks,  one  of  them 
said,  “ What  have  you  here  ? ” I answered  frankly 
and  pleasantly  and  again  invited  them  to  join  us  in  a 
cup  of  hot  coffee.  One  man  stepped  nearer : the  other 
followed,  both  advancing  very  suspiciously;  but  we 
soon  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  them  seated  at 
our  fire  and  partaking  of  our  hospitality. 

They  asked  for  news,  inquiring  if  I had  no  late 
paper.  Going  to  the  wagon,  I found  an  El  Paso 
Herald  and  read  them  information  of  recent  en- 
counters and  movements  of  troops.  Knowing  them 
to  be  “ Red-flaggers,”  or  Orozco  men,  I then  asked 
them  of  this  chief,  telling  them  incidentally  that  I 
knew  him  and  that  his  family  were  once  my  parishion- 
ers. I talked  with  them  of  other  rebel  generals  whom 
I had  met.  I told  them  of  my  home,  the  Casa  Grande, 
of  which  they  had  heard,  and  of  my  children — natives 
of  Chihuahua. 

The  men  listened  with  interest,  their  hard  fea- 
tures seeming  to  soften.  After  asking  many  ques- 
tions, they  at  last  arose,  bade  us  a civil  " Buenas 
noches,”  and  disappeared  in  the  darkness.  About 
midnight  we  hitched  up  our  six  horses  and  proceeded 
on  our  way.  We  had  gone  but  a few  rods  when  a 
turn  in  the  road  around  some  heavy  mesquite  bushes 
brought  into  view  four  immense  camp  fires.  Un- 
knowingly we  had  halted  our  wagons  close  by  a strong 


160  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 

rebel  encampment,  from  which  our  two  scouts  had 
come.  However,  they  had  eaten  with  us  and  there 
was  now  nothing  to  fear. 

The  return  trip  afforded  us  a new  experience.  As 
usual  it  was  toward  evening  when  we  set  out  from 
the  station.  In  the  dusk  now  coming  on  I chanced 
to  glance  backward  and  saw  the  dust  and  moving 
figures  of  an  approaching  body  of  cavalry.  I knew 
from  information  received  at  the  station  that  it  must 
be  a Maderista  troop  destined  for  El  Valle,  which  had 
now  for  the  third  time  come  under  the  control  of 
the  Madero  government.  We  were  soon  overtaken. 
An  officer  ordered  an  inspection  of  our  wagons  and 
satisfied  himself  that  we  were  not  connected  with  the 
Orozco  rebels.  Some  two  hundred  men  passed  us, 
and  as  we  dropped  to  the  rear  we  found  that  another 
body  of  equal  size  was  advancing  from  behind.  For 
several  hours  our  wagons  maintained  their  position 
between  the  troops,  thus  furnishing  us  with  an  ad- 
vance and  a rear  guard.  We  were  not  permitted  to 
separate  ourselves  from  this  little  army — which  moved 
more  slowly  than  we  cared  to — but  arrived  in  its 
company  at  El  Valle. 

One  other  trip  is  of  sufficient  interest  in  my  mem- 
ory to  be  recorded  here.  As  has  been  intimated,  the 
most  trying  experience  of  the  Casa  Grande  family 
during  these  years  was  the  frequent  and  prolonged 
suspension  of  mail  service,  cutting  us  off  from  all 
communication  with  the  States,  as  well  as  from  other 
parts  of  Mexico.  At  the  beginning  of  the  revolution 
four  or  five  months  passed  without  our  being  able 


JOURNEYS  BY  DAY  AND  BY  NIGHT  161 


to  send  word  to  the  children  in  college,  or  to  hear 
from  them.  It  was  finally  learned  that  a lot  of  El 
Valle  mail  had  accumulated  at  the  railway  station, 
which  was  now  in  the  hands  of  the  Maderistas.  The 
old  federal  postal  system  had  for  months  been  com- 
pletely disorganized,  and  the  new  government  in  our 
part  of  the  state  had  not  yet  established  one  of  its 
own.  Consequently,  no  one  had  authority  to  touch 
a mail  bag.  The  El  Valle  people  seemed  to  us  pro- 
vokingly  resigned  to  this  situation.  In  an  interview 
with  the  mayor  I learned  that  only  by  a special  order 
from  Madero  himself  could  those  sacks  of  mail  at 
the  station  be  obtained.  Madero  was  then  with  his 
troops  on  the  Rio  Grande,  opposite  El  Paso.  To 
secure  his  order  it  would  be  necessary  for  some  one 
to  go  and  see  him.  Rail  communication  with  El  Paso 
had  been  destroyed,  and  much  of  the  territory  between 
us  and  that  point  was  still  in  the  hands  of  the  fed- 
erals.  One  could  reach  Madero  only  by  an  overland 
tour  via  Columbus,  New  Mexico. 

“If  you  are  sufficiently  interested  in  the  matter  to 
go,”  said  the  mayor,  “ I will  give  you  a passport, 
together  with  my  official  note  requesting  Madero  to 
issue  you  the  order.”  The  papers  were  given  me, 
and  on  the  following  day — April  9,  1911 — taking  my 
lightest  two-horse  rig  and  our  boy  Arturo,  I set  out 
for  Columbus.  It  will  be  remembered  that  Columbus 
was,  later,  the  scene  of  the  Villa  assault,  and  the 
road  which  we  travelled  is  the  same  as  that  followed 
by  the  “ Punitive  Expedition  ” in  its  search  for  that 
notorious  chief. 


162  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


The  distance  from  El  Valle  to  Columbus  is  one 
hundred  and  eighty-five  miles,  and  was  covered  in 
three  days,  at  the  end  of  which  the  splendid  ponies 
enjoyed  a two-day  rest — in  a foreign  land. 

Arturo  and  I completed  our  journey  to  El  Paso 
by  rail.  Madero — who  was  then  on  the  point  of 
attacking  the  important  customs  city  of  Juarez — was 
found,  and  promptly  wrote  me  the  desired  order. 
The  homeward  trip  was  equally  swift  and  without 
incident. 

I had  now,  however,  to  return  again  to  the  station 
with  a large  wagon  for  the  mail — twenty-seven  sacks. 
This  time  the  lady  of  the  Casa  Grande  accompanied 
me.  As  many  of  the  sacks  had  been  delivered  to  us 
unsealed,  scores  of  letters  from  dear  ones  found  their 
way  to  our  hands  during  the  journey  home. 

Under  the  circumstances  we  did  not  consider  it  an 
abuse  of  our  privileges  to  abstract  such  letters — es- 
pecially as  that  was  our  only  recompense  for  bringing 
to  El  Valle  its  mail,  and  the  effort  had  cost  me  an 
overland  drive  of  four  hundred  and  seventy  miles. 


VI 


MIDNIGHT  VISITORS 

IN  the  early  fall  of  1912  the  situation  in  our 
valley  became  increasingly  serious.  In  addition 
to  the  organized  troops — both  federal  and  in- 
surgent— which  were  constantly  chasing,  or  avoiding, 
one  another,  we  now  began  to  hear  of  highway 
robberies  committed  by  independent  companies  of 
marauders.  Not  only  did  the  roads  again  become  ex- 
ceeding unsafe,  but  out-of-the-way  ranches  here  and 
there  were  looted. 

The  American  Mormon  colonies,  to  our  northwest, 
which  up  to  this  time  had  not  been  seriously  mo- 
lested, were  now  subjected  to  gross  outrages.  One 
of  their  mercantile  establishments  was  broken  into  and 
goods  to  the  value  of  $200,000  taken.  This  deed 
was  perpetrated  by  the  “ Red-flaggers.”  I chanced 
to  be  in  Nueva  Casas  Grandes  the  day  that  the  great 
wholesale  German  store  at  that  point  was  sacked  by 
the  same  revolutionary  faction.  The  loss  was  enor- 
mous. Not  a dollar’s  worth  of  goods  was  left  behind. 

Hitherto  the  persons  and  the  property  of  foreigners 
had  been  respected;  but  not  now.  The  Mormon  fami- 
lies were  everywhere  assaulted  and  commanded  to 
deliver  up  their  horses,  saddles,  and  arms.  The  de- 
mand was  met  with  refusal;  and  as  a consequence 

163 


164  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


these  Americans  incurred  the  violent  ill  will  of  the 
bandits,  were  despoiled  and  driven  from  their  homes. 

As  these  hostilities  had  been  directed  especially 
against  the  Mormons,  and  other  Americans  residing 
in  the  same  region  were  still  undisturbed,  we  did  not 
believe  ourselves  to  be  in  any  danger.  All  the  valley 
people  remained  as  friendly  as  ever.  Even  the  “ Red- 
flag  ” authorities,  when  in  possession  of  the  town, 
invariably  showed  us  the  same  good  will  as  did  the 
Maderistas,  when  these  were  in  power.  Both  fac- 
tions were  accustomed  to  furnish  me  with  free  trav- 
elling passports — assuring,  as  far  as  possible,  every 
protection. 

One  afternoon  in  September  a boy  belonging  to  don 
Jorge,  a good  friend  of  mine  in  town,  came  hurrying 
on  his  pony  to  our  door.  Without  dismounting,  he 
at  once  called  out,  “ My  papa  says  to  tell  you  that  a 
lot  of  men  are  on  their  way  from  Galeana  to  sack 
your  house.  They  will  be  here  this  afternoon  or 
evening.  Papa  says  for  you  to  hide  your  valuable 
papers,  your  money,  and  everything  that  you  can.”  I 
thanked  the  boy  for  his  kindness,  and  we  immediately 
set  about  putting  our  house  in  order.  The  time  at 
our  disposal  might  be  very  short,  and  the  secreting 
of  things  in  what  seemed  to  us  good  places  was  quite 
exciting.  We  had  about  a hundred  dollars  in  cash. 
It  was  hidden  inside  the  piano.  An  expensive  saddle 
was  covered  with  a pile  of  stalks  in  a field  near  the 
house.  It  was  in  the  midst  of  our  cheese-making 
season,  and  four  dozen  fine  cheeses  were  curing  upon 
the  shelves.  I carried  many  of  these  to  the  alfalfa 


MIDNIGHT  VISITORS 


165 


room  and  buried  them  in  the  hay.  Another  lot  was 
placed  evenly  upon  the  springs  of  a “ spare  ” bed, 
covered  with  the  mattress;  then  the  bed  was  made  up, 
and  the  lady  of  the  house  said  she  would  get  in  when 
the  visitors  came. 

But  they  did  not  appear.  The  uneasy  hours  passed 
by  and  we  finally  retired,  expecting  that  we  might  be 
awakened  at  any  time  to  receive  callers.  Morning 
came  and  it  was  ascertained  that  the  plundering  party 
had  indeed  arrived  in  El  Valle.  They  were  of  the 
same  faction  which  had  been  persecuting  the  Mor- 
mons, and  their  chief,  Salazar,  hearing  that  we  were 
of  the  same  religion,  had  sent  them  to  us.  On  their 
arrival  in  the  city  our  authorities  (then  of  the  same 
faction)  informed  them  of  their  mistake  and  per- 
suaded them  to  leave  us  undisturbed. 

Two  weeks  later  a similar  warning  reached  us  that 
a night  attack  was  to  be  made  upon  a number  of 
houses,  including  ours,  and  again  we  experienced  the 
excitement  of  preparing  for  bandits,  who  a second 
time  happily  disappointed  us. 

Between  twelve  and  one  o’clock  on  the  morning  of 
November  8,  I was  awakened  by  a light  tapping  at 
our  kitchen  door.  Supposing  that  some  one  of  our 
Mexican  dependents — in  their  apartments  across  the 
patio — might  be  ill,  I arose,  went  to  the  door  and 
asked  who  was  there.  The  answer  came  softly,  “Soy 
yo  ” — It  is  I.  But  not  recognizing  the  voice,  I re- 
peated my  question,  which  again  brought  the  same 
reply,  but  now  in  a tone  sufficiently  clear  to  convince 
me  that  a stranger  was  outside.  “ Open  the  door,” 


166  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


he  said.  “ But  I cannot  open  the  door  until  you  tell 
me  your  name  and  your  errand,”  I replied.  The  man 
now  stepped  to  the  adjoining  window  and  said,  “ Come 
to  the  window;  I wish  to  talk  a little  with  you.”  “ I 
can  talk  very  well  where  I am.  Tell  me  your  name 
and  why  you  are  here.”  “ Give  me  five  hundred 
dollars  or  I will  kill  you!  ” This  was  said  in  a low, 
but  decidedly  menacing,  tone.  Suddenly  another 
voice  was  heard,  “ Open  the  door,  or  we  will  throw 
in  a bomb ! ” Understanding  clearly  that  there  was 
trouble  ahead,  I returned  to  the  bedroom  and  hastily 
dressed.  My  wife  appeared  to  be  asleep.  There  was 
no  light. 

I now  went  back  to  the  kitchen  and  found  that  the 
robbers  were  at  a window  on  the  other  side.  They 
were  easily  distinguished  in  the  clear  starlight,  and 
also  three  rifle  barrels,  already  pushed  through  the 
window  and  pointing  in  the  direction  from  which  I 
was  supposed  to  be  advancing.  Taking  a position 
hugging  the  wall,  I approached  the  men  and  endeav- 
oured to  reason  with  them.  “ I have  almost  no  money 
in  the  house,  nothing  like  the  sum  you  mention,”  I 
told  them.  “ It  certainly  will  not  pay  you  to  persist 
in  breaking  in.”  But  they  would  have  no  words,  and 
I offered  to  get  a light. 

Coming  again  to  the  bedroom  I lighted  a lamp  and 
saw  that  my  wife  was  now  awake.  “ What  is  the 
matter  ? ” she  asked.  Speaking  quietly,  I said, 
“ There  are  robbers  in  the  house,” — for,  as  she  spoke, 
I heard  the  men  springing  through  the  window. 
“How  do  you  know  that  they  are  robbers?”  she 


MIDNIGHT  VISITORS 


167 


asked  without  excitement.  I did  not  need  to  reply, 
for  at  that  instant  four  ruffians  burst  into  the  room 
and  covered  me  with  their  guns. 

This  cowardly  action  and  the  insolent  attitude  of 
the  men  at  my  wife’s  bedside  angered  me  and  I un- 
consciously addressed  them  in  English — “ Get  out  of 

here,  you .”  Instantly  I gave  them  the  same  idea 

in  Spanish,  assisted  by  readily  understood  gestures. 
The  next  moment  the  men  were  with  me  in  the  other 
room.  The  leader  of  the  band  now  ordered  me  to 
open  the  door  at  which  they  had  first  demanded 
entrance.  As  I did  so,  one  man  was  stationed  there 
to  guard  against  assistance  which  might  come  to  us 
from  our  Mexican  people.  Another  man  was  placed 
at  the  foot  of  the  bed,  to  see  that  my  wife  did  not 
attempt  to  give  the  alarm. 

By  this  time  I was  inclined  to  agree  with  our  callers 
that  it  would  be  prudent  for  me  to  find  what  little 
money  we  had  and  hand  over.  Leading  the  way  to 
the  sitting-room,  I unlocked  a drawer  of  my  desk  and 
drew  out  two  bills,  one  a five  and  the  other  a twenty. 
Taking  out  my  pocketbook,  which  contained  less  than 
five  dollars  in  change,  I offered  bills  and  change  to 
the  chief,  saying,  “ This  is  all  the  money  I have.”  He 
did  not  believe  me,  but  looking  scornfully  upon  the 
insignificant  amount,  refused  to  touch  it.  Whereupon 
I at  once  returned  the  bills  to  the  drawer  and  the 
change  to  my  pocket.  At  their  command  I opened 
another  drawer,  which  they  inspected,  but  found  no 
cash. 

Thinking  that  I had  a large  sum  of  money  in  the 


168  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


house,  which  I was  endeavouring  to  keep  from  them, 
the  leader  became  furious  and  shouted,  “ Find  the 
five  hundred  dollars  at  once,  or  I will  shoot  you ! ” 
And  he  presented  the  muzzle  of  his  rifle  within  a 
yard  of  my  breast. 

“ It  is  useless  to  search  farther,”  I replied,  “ there 
is  no  more  money  than  I have  shown  you.” 

“If  you  have  not  five  hundred,  find  me  four  hun- 
dred, and  be  quick ! ” 

The  ruffian  now  took  a step  backward,  deliberately 
aimed  at  me,  and  pulled  the  trigger,  once,  twice,  three 
times,  but  the  gun  did  not  speak,  neither  did  I,  for 
there  was  nothing  more  to  say. 

Knowing  that  I believed  their  threats  only  an  at- 
tempt to  frighten  me  into  finding  what  they  asked, 
the  bandit  chief  now  shouted,  “ But  I will  kill  you  if 
you  do  not  get  that  money  at  once ! ” 

“ Then  you  will  have  to  kill  me,”  I answered,  “ for 
I have  told  you  nothing  but  the  truth.  There  is  no 
more  money.” 

So  suddenly  as  to  take  me  completely  by  surprise 
came  a terrific  blow  upon  my  chest  with  the  butt  of 
the  gun.  I should  have  fallen,  had  I not  caught  for 
support  at  a door  near  by.  The  other  man  now 
sprang  forward  and  grasped  me  by  the  wrists,  holding 
me  firmly. 

“ Shall  I hit  you  again?  ” said  the  chief,  raising  his 
gun  threateningly. 

I well  knew  that  he  was  capable  of  repeating  the 
act,  and  once  more  I attempted  to  reason  with  him. 
“ I have  recently  had  money  in  the  house,”  I said, 


MIDNIGHT  VISITORS 


169 


“ but  I have  sent  some  to  my  children  in  the  home 
land,  and  I have  paid  a number  of  bills.  I am  not 
deceiving  you,  sir.” 

“ Open  that  upper  drawer,”  he  demanded,  pointing 
to  one  which  had  not  yet  been  examined. 

This  I did  willingly,  for  I knew  what  it  contained. 
Taking  out  the  drawer  I showed  them  its  contents. 
“ These  are  old  sermons,  see  ? ” The  sermons,  old  and 
dry  as  they  were,  had  never  in  their  existence  seemed 
to  be  so  effective  as  now,  for  the  crisis  was  passed. 

Addressing  me  now  with  something  of  respect,  the 
bandit  said : 

“ Sir,  you  will  please  to  hand  out  those  bills  and 
that  change.” 

This  I cheerfully  did. 

Grasping  the  money  and  thrusting  it  into  his  pocket, 
he  said,  “ I understand  you  have  arms,”  and  he  put 
his  hand  to  my  hips. 

“ I have  nothing  that  you  care  for,”  I answered, 
“ but  come  and  see.” 

We  returned  to  the  bedroom  where  was  found  a 
little  .22-calibre  rifle  used  for  rabbit  hunting.  This 
I handed  him.  He  examined  it  a moment  and  re- 
turned it  to  me. 

“Where  are  your  pistols?  ” he  asked. 

“ I have  none;  I never  carry  them.” 

During  all  this  time  my  poor  wife  had  been  listen- 
ing and  observing  the  proceedings  as  best  she  could 
from  the  bed.  She  was  more  troubled  than  I, 
for  she  feared  that  any  moment  might  bring  a rifle 
report  or  that  they  would  at  least  carry  me  away 


170  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


with  them  to  hold  for  ransom,  as  had  been  the  ex- 
perience of  many  men  in  our  vicinity. 

As  I appeared  in  her  room  accompanied  by  the 
men,  she  believed  that  they  were  now  about  to  take 
me  away,  and  burst  into  tears.  Seeing  this,  the  chief, 
raising  his  hand  to  her,  said  not  unkindly,  “ Lady, 
do  not  cry.”  He  then  called  his  men  together  and 
all  departed. 

Within  a half  hour  we  were  startled  by  a hand 
bomb  explosion  some  distance  away.  We  learned  in 
the  morning  that  our  visitors  were  part  of  a large 
band  who  were  making  a demonstration  in  the  town; 
but  the  Casa  Grande  was  the  only  house  assaulted 
that  night. 

Our  own  Mexicans  across  the  patio  were  aware  of 
the  arrival  of  the  night  visitors,  and  without  attempt- 
ing to  interfere,  tremblingly  awaited  the  outcome. 
While  horrified  by  the  thought  of  a possible  atrocity 
being  committed,  they  rightfully  believed  that  their 
unarmed  presence  might  complicate  matters  unfavour- 
ably for  us  all,  and  remained  quiet.  Good,  faithful 
people  are  Emilio  and  dona  Juana  with  their  children, 
some  of  them  born  in  our  house.  May  God  bless 
them ! Also  Geronimo  and  Antonio  and  theirs ! 

Our  friends  and  the  authorities  believed  that  we 
were  no  longer  safe  at  the  ranch  and  urged  our  taking 
a house  in  town.  We  had,  however,  previously  de- 
cided to  spend  the  winter  in  California,  and  quietly 
proceeded  with  our  preparations  for  coming  away. 
Funds  would  be  necessary  for  the  journey,  and  to 
secure  these  our  produce  was  sold  at  a sacrifice.  Act- 


MIDNIGHT  VISITORS 


171 


ing  on  previous  advice  of  the  United  States  consul, 
we  took  an  inventory  of  our  property  and  left  the 
ranch  in  the  care  of  faithful  Mexicans  who  had  long 
been  in  our  employ. 

During  the  recent  months  rail  communication  with 
El  Paso  had  become  utterly  unreliable.  Trains  were 
infrequent,  and  none  at  all  had  been  running  of  late. 
We  had,  therefore,  little  expectation  of  being  able 
to  get  out  of  Mexico,  except  by  driving  our  own  team 
across  the  national  line  into  New  Mexico. 

Travel  had  never  been  beset  by  more  peril  than 
then,  and  especially  was  the  road  dangerous  as  one 
neared  the  border,  where  frequent  assaults  on  fleeing 
Americans  had  been  reported.  As  we  would  be 
obliged  to  carry  considerable  money,  and  as  El  Valle 
was  believed  to  harbour  some  secret  bandit  allies, 
our  plans,  as  to  date  of  departure  and  destination,  were 
kept  closely  to  ourselves. 

In  order  to  make  our  light  wagon  present  the  least 
possible  attraction  to  highwaymen,  I removed  the 
good  coach  top,  and  put  in  its  place  a rather  disreputa- 
ble old  wagon  cover.  The  best  driving  horses,  put 
in  their  best  condition,  were  taken;  but  so  mean  were 
the  harnesses  thrown  upon  them  that  they  appeared, 
ashamed. 

It  was  the  evening  before  Thanksgiving  that  we 
said  adios  to  the  dear  Casa  Grande  Mexicans,  and  at 
midnight  we  drove  out,  carrying  one  trunk,  two  valises, 
and  three  days’  lunch  for  ourselves  and  ponies. 

Five  hundred  Mexican  pesos  were  secreted  in  vari- 
ous places  about  our  persons  and  the  wagon,  and  the 


172  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


“ robber’s  purse” — which  I always  carried — was  in 
readiness  to  hand  over  on  demand. 

Now,  if  this  were  fiction,  I should  doubtless  insert 
here  thrilling  adventures  of  that  journey  out.  But, 
considering  conditions,  the  truth  is  even  more  strange 
than  fiction.  We  made  a perfectly  safe  journey  to 
the  station.  We  found  that  on  the  following  day  a 
train  was  to  leave  for  El  Paso.  (None  had  come  or 
gone  for  weeks.) 

We  had  said  one  to  the  other  on  nearing  the  depot 
that  should  we  learn  a train  was  to  leave  soon  for 
the  border  it  would  be  the  happiest  Thanksgiving 
Day  of  our  lives.  The  ponies  were  provided  for, 
and  on  December  first  we  were  under  the  protection 
of  “ Old  Glory  ” in  El  Paso. 


VII 


STILL  MORE  YEARS  OF  REVOLUTION 

THAT  was  in  1912.  Four  more  evil  years  of 
revolution  and  counter-revolution  have  now 
rolled  over  Mexico,  and  the  end  is  not  in  sight. 
To  consider  briefly  the  conditions  in  El  Valle  through 
these  years  is  worth  while,  for  the  experiences  of  this 
one  valley  may  be  considered  a fair  epitome  of  Mex- 
ico’s sufferings. 

Although  our  residence  has  not  been  reestablished 
at  the  Casa  Grande,  repeated  visits  to  the  Mexican 
home  have  kept  me  fully  informed  as  to  the  movement 
of  events  there  and  throughout  that  part  of  the 
country. 

The  close  of  1912  saw  President  Madero’s  govern- 
ment fairly  well  established  in  El  Valle.  The  city 
was  garrisoned  by  three  hundred  federal  soldiers,  and 
the  greater  part  of  the  citizens  were  in  entire  sympathy 
with  the  new  administration.  Yet  the  whole  region 
about  was  infested  by  bands  of  " Colorados  ” (“  Red- 
flaggers”)  who,  although  officered  by  “generals,” 
“ colonels,”  and  “ captains,”  continually  occupied 
themselves  in  works  of  destruction  and  robbery,  rather 
than  in  fighting,  which  they  avoided.  It  is  but  fair 
to  say  that  the  “ Colorados  ” were  not  the  only  fac- 
tion composed  largely  of  a bad  element.  As  to  char- 

178 


174  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


acter  and  disposition  there  is  little  difference  to  be 
noted  between  the  soldiery  of  the  opposing  parties. 

The  burning  of  railroad  bridges,  cars,  and  even  of 
entire  trains,  the  capturing  of  engines  and  of  trains 
and  letting  them  loose  at  full  speed  to  work  death 
and  destruction  at  some  point  down  the  track,  the 
rounding  up  of  immense  herds  of  cattle  and  selling 
them  to  cattle  buyers,  the  looting  of  mines,  the  kidnap- 
ping of  prominent  citizens  and  holding  them  for  ran- 
som, the  maltreating  of  women — all  these  things  are 
counted  among  the  attractions  and  rewards  of  the 
insurgent’s  life.  Too  many  of  the  revolutionists  are 
of  the  work-avoiding  element  from  the  towns  and 
ranches,  men  who  have  no  intelligent  understanding 
of  why  they  are  in  arms,  but  like  the  kind  of  life 
proposed  by  their  officers — a good  mount,  two  or 
three  belts  of  cartridges,  a rifle,  a jolly  crowd,  excit- 
ing adventures,  no  work,  plenty  to  eat — especially 
fresh  beef — and  a ranch  to  plunder,  a store  to  sack, 
a saloon  to  drain. 

In  January,  1913,  the  “ Colorados”  gathered  their 
forces  and  made  a night  attack  upon  the  El  Valle 
garrison.  It  was  a complete  surprise,  and  the  gar- 
rison might  have  been  annihilated  had  it  not  been 
that — unbeknown  to  the  attacking  troop — a strong  re- 
inforcement to  the  federals  had  just  arrived.  As  it 
was,  many  men  were  killed  while  asleep  and  a terrific 
struggle  followed,  ending  in  the  rout  of  the  insurgents. 

Local  conditions  in  the  valley  were  not  improved 
by  the  incoming  of  the  Huerta  regime.  The  " Colo- 
rados” having  opposed  Madero,  might  naturally  be 


STILL  MORE  YEARS  OF  REVOLUTION  175 


supposed  to  affiliate  with  Huerta,  who  had  caused 
Madero’s  overthrow.  Few  of  them,  however,  recog- 
nized Huerta.  Some  later  united  with  Villa,  and  some 
with  Carranza,  but  the  greater  part  never  allied  them- 
selves with  any  other  party. 

When  I visited  El  Valle  in  the  summer  of  1913 
I found  the  city  in  the  hands  of  a small  independent 
band  of  “ Colorados,”  who  had  captured  the  town, 
repeating  the  same  outrages  so  often  experienced  by 
our  people.  Fine  beef  creatures  were  shot  down  in 
their  owners’  pastures,  their  hides,  with  choice  pieces 
of  meat,  taken,  and  the  carcasses  abandoned  to  the 
dogs  and  buzzards. 

The  little  bunch  of  Casa  Grande  cattle  was  rapidly 
diminishing  by  this  method.  But  at  nightfall,  two 
days  after  my  arrival,  our  cowboys  started  the  herd 
toward  the  railway  station.  (Trains  for  a brief 
period  had  been  running.)  The  neighbours  were  ap- 
prehensive: pursuit  and  capture  seemed  probable,  but 
every  creature  of  the  more  than  one  hundred  was 
delivered  safely  to  the  American  buyer. 

This  particular  body  of  men  who  now  held  El  Valle 
in  their  grip  had  a somewhat  remarkable  program, 
which  was  set  forth  in  printed  notices  posted  about 
the  town.  The  main  features  of  which  I made  note 
were,  “Free  land,  free  water,  and  free  flour.” 

During  the  rule  of  Villa  in  the  north  (1915)  there 
were  intervals  when  El  Valle  enjoyed  quiet.  While 
Villa  was  loyal  to  Carranza  and  the  memory  of  Ma- 
dero,  he  was  considered  as  Mexico’s  strongest  cham- 
pion of  the  greatly  needed  reforms.  He  was  of  mean 


176  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


origin ; he  was  without  education ; he  was  said  to  have 
been  a bandit;  his  moral  character  was  unworthy. 
But  he  was  a man  of  extraordinary  force,  a military 
genius.  He  was  popular,  ardently  admired  by  his 
followers,  and  even  by  his  enemies,  who  regarded  him 
with  almost  superstitious  fear. 

After  Villa  had  quarrelled  with  Carranza  and  es- 
tablished his  own  authority  as  supreme  in  the  northern 
states,  he  showed  no  little  political  ability  in  associat- 
ing with  himself  extremely  capable  men,  and  in  or- 
ganizing— so  far  as  conditions  would  permit — a 
beneficent  government.  He  was  doubtless  honest  in 
his  purpose  to  correct  abuses  and  promote  the  perma- 
nent welfare  of  the  people.  From  his  first  appearance 
as  a leader  until  the  recognition  of  Carranza  by  the 
American  government,  Villa  uniformly  manifested  a 
friendly  spirit  toward  Americans.  He  was  strongly 
desirous  of  retaining  the  good  will  of  the  Washington 
administration  and,  perhaps  for  this  reason,  he  was 
especially  energetic  and  effective  in  his  hostility  to 
the  bandit  element  wherever  encountered.  The 
“ Colorados  ” who  refused  to  accept  amnesty  in  laying 
down  their  arms  or  joining  his  own  troops,  were 
treated  as  outlaws  and  hunted  down  like  beasts. 
Never  had  Porfirio  Diaz  in  the  days  of  his  iron  rule 
exhibited  more  relentless  vigour  or  success  in  the  sup- 
pression of  brigandage  than  Francisco  Villa  in  the 
brief  era  of  his  supremacy. 

The  funds  for  the  support  of  his  government  and 
the  prosecution  of  his  contest  with  Carranza  were 
secured  in  part  through  the  confiscation  of  great 


STILL  MORE  YEARS  OF  REVOLUTION  177 


estates  whose  owners  were  politically  hostile.  The 
cattle  of  such  owners  were  driven  off  by  the  tens  of 
thousands  and  sold  for  gold.  In  this  way  the  cost  of 
war  munitions  and  other  necessary  imports  was  met, 
but  his  soldiers  were  paid,  and  all  other  expenses 
covered  by  his  fiat  paper  money,  of  which  by  June, 
1915,  the  state  of  Chihuahua  had  issued  some  300,- 
000,000  pesos,  counted  at  its  face  value.  The  first 
effect  of  this  easy-flowing  money  was  apparent  pros- 
perity. But  its  real  value — never  much — fluctuated 
with  Villa’s  fortunes  and  went  to  zero  in  his  fall. 
Sane  business  men,  even  those  in  political  sympathy 
with  Villa,  distrusted  the  neat,  new  bills;  but  a 
stringent  regulation  was  passed  requiring  their  uni- 
versal acceptance.  It  was  understood  in  El  Valle  that 
certain  men  in  Chihuahua  had  been  summarily  exe- 
cuted for  refusing  to  take  the  money.  This  inspired 
wholesome  fear,  and  until  Villa’s  reverses  became 
alarming  no  other  money  dared  to  show  itself. 

The  economic  situation  in  our  valley  region — as 
throughout  the  entire  country — had  been  steadily 
growing  from  bad  to  worse.  Mining  and  other  en- 
terprises conducted  largely  by  Americans,  and  which 
had  employed  hundreds  of  thousands  of  labourers, 
were  obliged  to  suspend  operations,  thus  bringing 
enormous  financial  loss  to  the  country.  Many  ex- 
tensive haciendas,  which  ordinarily  supplied  great 
quantities  of  farm  produce,  flour,  and  manufactured 
goods  for  market,  had  been  confiscated.  General  farm- 
ing and  business  of  every  kind  suffered.  The  cattle 
industry  was  destroyed.  The  railroads  were  one  day 


178  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


in  clumsy  repair  and  the  next  entirely  out  of  commis- 
sion. With  public  highways  unsafe,  internal  com- 
merce was  paralyzed,  and  the  importation  of  foreign 
goods  became  prohibitive  because  of  the  excessively 
high  prices  in  Mexican  currency.  The  many  excellent 
stores  doing  business  in  El  Valle  at  the  outbreak  of 
the  revolution  six  years  ago  have  not  yet  reopened, 
except  a few  of  them  on  a pitifully  small  scale. 

In  our  city  it  became  more  and  more  difficult  to 
obtain  the  articles  of  prime  necessity,  such  as  dry 
goods,  manufactured  goods  of  all  kinds,  material  for 
clothing,  blankets,  bedding,  soap,  and  general  gro- 
ceries. These  necessities  through  many  weary  months 
were  either  impossible  to  obtain,  or  the  prices  of  the 
limited  supply  were  beyond  reach,  hence  there  was 
much  real  suffering,  particularly  from  insufficient 
clothing. 

The  seizure  of  horses,  of  provender  and  other  prod- 
uce without  compensation  to  the  owner  has  continued, 
and  our  once  forehanded  farmers  are  left  with  little 
else  than  their  bare  land.  The  Casa  Grande  has  now 
shared  to  the  full  the  misfortunes  of  its  neighbours. 

The  rapid  decline  in  value  of  the  Villa  currency 
caused  untold  confusion  and  loss  in  business  affairs. 
As  confidence  lessened  various  expedients  were  em- 
ployed to  avoid  accepting  the  money,  or  offering  it — 
which  act  was  finally  taken  as  an  offence.  If  dona 
Ramona  wished  a kilo  of  lard  or  a pound  of  sugar, 
she  would  take  a measure  of  beans  or  a dozen  of  eggs 
to  some  neighbour  and  dicker  an  exchange.  Don  Jose, 
needing  a horse,  would  search  until  he  succeeded  in 


STILL  MORE  YEARS  OF  REVOLUTION  179 


finding  a man  willing  to  take  a cow  and  a load  of 
corn  for  his  grey  nag.  Soldiers  of  the  El  Valle  gar- 
rison received  their  pay  in  the  despised  paper;  but  the 
time  came  when  they  were  ashamed  to  tender  it  in 
payment  of  any  purchase.  At  this  period  there  were 
no  butcher  shops  in  the  city.  Beeves  were  slaugh- 
tered only  for  the  military.  But  in  such  abundance 
were  the  soldiers  provided  that  they  acquired  the  cus- 
tom of  slyly  taking  to  their  families,  or  citizen 
friends,  enormous  cuts  of  meat.  These  would  be 
retailed  among  the  neighbours,  who  were  eager  to 
obtain  them,  and  in  return  the  soldiers  were  provided 
with  needed  articles  which  money  (like  theirs)  could 
not  buy.  This  custom  was  winked  at  by  the  officers, 
who  well  understood  the  situation. 

At  the  northern  outskirts  of  El  Valle  is  a little 
sorghum  factory  where  in  the  late  summer  hundreds 
of  gallons  of  excellent  syrup  are  produced.  The  dif- 
ficulty of  obtaining  sugar  caused  this  sorghum  busi- 
ness to  become  important.  In  1915  the  output  was 
unprecedented  and  in  the  syrup  season  buyers  were 
numerous.  They  came  from  near  and  far.  They 
came  with  bottles,  with  cans,  and  with  vessels  of  every 
description.  Many  were  despatched  with  their  sweet 
and  with  the  word,  “ Pay  me  later.”  Some  brought 
articles  for  exchange ; but  much  worthless  money  was 
taken  in.  Because  of  Villa’s  declining  fortunes  the 
hard-working  sorghum  man  conducted  his  business 
that  year  at  a ruinous  loss. 

Foreseeing  a rise  in  prices  on  the  appearance  of 
this  money,  the  Villa  government  issued  a decree 


180  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


fixing  the  maximum  prices  on  staple  commodities. 
Beans,  commonly  worth  $8.00  an  hectolitro  (about 
one  hundred  and  sixty  pounds),  were  not  to  go  higher 
than  this  in  the  new  currency.  The  prices  of  corn 
and  wheat  were  likewise  limited.  Confiscation  of 
one’s  entire  harvest  was  the  penalty  for  refusing  to 
sell  at  the  regulation  prices,  or  demanding  more. 
Instances  of  such  confiscation  occurred  in  the 
valley. 

While  the  non-producing  public  was  temporarily 
benefited  by  this  measure,  the  effect  upon  farmers 
and  dealers  was  disastrous.  At  the  time  of  my  visit 
to  El  Paso  in  1915  one  could  buy  thirty  pesos  of  the 
Villa  money  for  one  dollar  in  gold.  At  this  rate  I 
found  that  corn  might  be  bought  (in  gold)  in  the 
Santa  Maria  valley — or  anywhere  in  Chihuahua — at 
five  cents  a bushel.  Beans — of  the  finest  quality — 
came  higher;  they  were  ten  cents  a bushel.  The  best 
of  beef  could  be  bought  in  any  market  at  three-fourths 
of  a cent  a pound.  In  ordinary  years  the  Casa  Grande 
bean  crop  amounts  to  about  $200  (gold) ; but  the 
four-ton  yield  of  1914,  still  lying  in  the  bin,  was 
worth  less  than  $14.00 — not  enough  to  meet  the  cost 
of  three  small  ploughs  sent  from  El  Paso  to  the  ranch 
that  season.  The  wheat,  the  corn,  and  the  alfalfa 
harvests  are  more  important,  but  the  entire  product 
of  the  farm  that  year  could  have  been  purchased  for 
$50.00  in  United  States  money. 

Any  effort,  however,  to  export  this,  or  to  buy  from 
the  neighbours  for  shipments  into  the  United  States, 
would  have  subjected  all  to  certain  confiscation.  A 


STILL  MORE  YEARS  OF  REVOLUTION  181 


considerable  part  of  this  produce  remained  stored  at 
the  Casa  Grande  until  the  arrival  at  El  Valle  of 
General  Pershing’s  troops  and  was  disposed  of  to 
them  at  a reasonable  figure  in  Uncle  Sam’s  good 
money. 

As  there  was  no  attempt  made  by  the  government 
to  regulate  prices  on  everything,  and  particularly  not 
on  imported  articles,  it  is  easy  to  see  how  the  cost 
of  many  things  must  have  soared  as  the  value  of  the 
state  money  went  down.  No  imported  goods  were 
now  to  be  seen  in  El  Valle,  but  the  most  ordinary 
pair  of  domestic-made  shoes  was  valued  at  $50.00. 
Under  normal  conditions  in  Mexico  a good  pair  of 
imported  ladies’  shoes  might  sell  for  eight  Mexican 
dollars  ($4.00  gold).  In  Chihuahua  City  at  the  time 
of  which  I write,  a lady  setting  out  to  buy  foreign 
footwear  needed  to  place  in  her  bag  not  less  than 
$150,  and  before  long  $500  was  the  cost  of  a modest 
pair  of  shoes.  An  American  lady  tells  of  buying  in 
the  Chihuahua  market  a dozen  imported  apples  for 
which  she  paid  out  an  assemblage  of  bills  amounting 
to  $100.  Yet  rates  on  the  Mexican  railways  remained 
the  same  in  the  depreciated  paper  as  before.  The 
tickets  for  my  tour  in  Chihuahua  in  1915  cost  me 
the  astonishing  sum  of  $1.61  for  the  seven  hundred 
miles  of  travel,  and  a long  day’s  ride  over  one  of  the 
most  delightful  scenic  routes  in  America  cost  me  ex- 
actly eighteen  cents — or,  including  three  excellent 
meals  on  the  way,  together  with  the  charge  at  a really 
good  hotel  the  following  night,  a total  expense  of 
three  American  dimes!  One  dollar  of  the  Villa 


182  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


money  would  still  buy  about  as  good  a meal  (espe- 
cially in  the  rural  districts)  as  a silver  dollar  had  for- 
merly secured.  The  prices  of  meat,  bread,  and  the 
principal  articles  of  Mexican  diet  were  kept  down  by 
law,  and  the  cost  of  eggs,  milk,  vegetables,  and  the 
like  was  not  immediately  affected.  Therefore,  country 
wages  and  the  pay  of  railroad  labourers  were  slow  in 
changing. 

Even  in  the  cities,  like  Chihuahua,  the  rise  of  wages 
did  not  nearly  keep  pace  with  the  depreciation  of  cur- 
rency. This  circumstance  was  favourable  for  all  en- 
terprise backed  by  United  States  money. 

During  this  year  our  missionaries  in  Chihuahua 
were  constructing  a large  and  beautiful  dormitory  for 
the  Chihuahuense — Girls’  Normal  School.  At  the 
time  of  my  visit  thirty  labourers  were  employed,  in- 
cluding the  master  workmen.  They  were  paid  higher 
than  the  average  wage,  and  considered  themselves 
fortunate.  At  the  close  of  each  workday  the  roll  was 
called  and  the  men,  each  in  turn,  stepped  forward  and 
received  his  daily  earning — a generous  handful  of 
bills.  As  I watched  this  interesting  scene  one  after- 
noon it  seemed  as  if  a prodigious  sum  of  money  was 
being  paid  out.  I was  informed  that  the  entire  amount 
was  within  $4.50,  gold! 

Before  Villa’s  retirement  from  the  state  that  year 
his  monetary  system  had  utterly  collapsed.  The  ma- 
jority of  our  valley  people  inclined  to  sympathize 
with  Villa  through  the  period  of  his  ascendency,  and 
even  in  his  reverses — until  his  more  recent  atrocities 
caused  loss  of  confidence  and  respect.  Villa  had  re- 


STILL  MORE  YEARS  OF  REVOLUTION  183 


peatedly  visited  El  Valle  and  become  well  known  to 
the  citizens.  Among  his  recruits  from  this  region 
was  a Casa  Grande  dependent  who  for  two  years 
faithfully  followed  his  chief. 

The  “ Punitive  Expedition,”  on  its  arrival  at  the 
Santa  Maria,  established  a base  just  above  El  Valle 
and  during  its  permanency  military  motor  trucks  were 
constantly  passing  the  Casa  Grande  on  their  way  to 
this  encampment.  Friendly  relations  existed  between 
these  Americans  and  the  valley  people.  While  there 
was  general  agreement  that  United  States  soldiers  had 
no  business  on  Mexican  soil,  the  benefits  of  their 
presence  reconciled  the  people  to  their  stay.  In  their 
road-  and  bridge-building  the  Americans  furnished 
employment  for  many  day-labourers.  They  bought 
quantities  of  grain  and  other  produce  from  the  farm- 
ers, paying  liberal  prices  in  American  gold. 

In  September,  1916,  the  enterprising  women  of  El 
Valle  planned  an  elaborate  bazaar  for  the  purpose  of 
raising  funds  to  improve  their  plaza.  To  this  festival 
a special  invitation  was  extended  the  soldiers  of 
the  encampment,  who  responded  in  large  numbers. 
They  made  friends  with  the  charming  sefioritas  and 
with  their  mothers : they  bought  souvenirs  for  their 
own  sisters  and  their  sweethearts  at  home,  and  left  in 
the  hands  of  the  women  some  four  hundred  gold 
dollars  for  the  plaza  fund.  The  presence  of  American 
troops  resulted  in  great  improvement  of  local  condi- 
tions and  the  immediate  region  occupied  by  them  was 
freed  of  bandits. 

The  Mexicans  generally  have  become  exceedingly 


18*  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


tired  of  revolution.  They  recognize  and  are  ashamed 
of  the  evil  reputation  which  Mexico  has  been  gaining 
for  herself  among  the  nations.  Not  only  those  of 
the  higher  classes,  but  the  plain,  level-headed  common 
people  admit  that  their  country  is  vexed  with  self- 
seeking,  unpatriotic  leaders;  also  that  there  exists  in 
their  midst  an  element  adventurous,  foolhardy,  and 
ignorant,  too  ready  to  follow  such  leaders.  One  of 
these  clear-thinking  men  said  to  me  one  day,  “ Un 
hombre  vivo  y mil  hombres  tontos,  es  una  revolu- 
tion! ” — One  bright  man  and  a thousand  fools,  that 
is  a revolution!  This  obscure  man  represents  a not 
inconsiderable  class  who  have  little  respect  for  some 
of  the  present  leaders. 

Since  the  outbreak  of  the  struggle  seven  years  ago 
no  man  has  appeared  who  has  won  general  esteem. 
He  who  is  honoured  in  certain  quarters  is  equally  de- 
tested in  others.  But  this  does  not  mean  that  there 
is  little  interest  in  the  great  matters  that  divide  public 
opinion. 

The  two  parties  in  Mexico  (although  not  known  by 
these  names)  might  be  called  the  Conservatives  and 
the  Progressives.  On  the  one  side  are  arrayed  the 
Roman  Church,  the  great  landowners,  the  big  busi- 
ness interests,  which  aspire  to  governmental  favourit- 
ism, and  with  these  a multitude  of  men,  generally 
well  to  do,  who  are  not  yet  ready  for  radical  changes. 
On  the  other  hand  are  the  awakening  masses  led  by 
a rising  and  intelligent  middle  class  who  are  calling 
for  reforms  in  the  governmental,  economic,  and  social 
systems,  reforms  which  will  provide  justice  and 


STILL  MORE  YEARS  OF  REVOLUTION  185 


greater  opportunities  for  the  people  so  long  held  in 
ignorance  and  practical  serfdom. 

It  is  true  that  our  neighbouring  country  has  been 
suffering  from  deplorable  internal  disorder,  but  less 
than  one  per  cent  of  the  people  have  been,  or  are, 
actively  participating  in  this.  The  Mexicans  are  too 
often  misjudged  by  Americans.  Our  neighbours 
themselves  have  been  the  victims  of  the  various  up- 
risings. Through  all  the  tiresome  period  the  masses 
have  been  endeavouring  to  pursue  their  usual  voca- 
tions of  peace.  They  want  peace;  are  praying  and 
longing  anxiously  for  it.  They  are  praying  that  God 
may  raise  up  from  among  themselves  a man,  strong 
and  wise  and  unselfishly  patriotic  enough  to  compel 
the  confidence  of  all,  one  who  fears  God  and  who 
under  Him  may  bring  order  out  of  the  confusion  and 
lead  the  people  on  to  a successful  solution  of  their 
many  problems. 


PART  THIRD 

PAST,  PRESENT,  AND  OUTLOOK 


I 


CAUSES  OF  BACKWARDNESS- 
GOVERNMENTAL 

“f  | MlERE  are  too  many  still  alive  down  there! 
They  are  ignorant,  conceited,  shiftless.  They 
are  but  half  civilized;  little  more  than  half 
savage.  They  are  ages  behind  the  times  and  will 
never  make  good.” 

The  individual  who  thus  declaims  represents  a cer- 
tain class  of  Americans  who  have  mingled  more  or 
less  with  the  lower  type  of  Mexicans  in  their  own 
country,  or  along  the  border.  Their  acquaintance  is 
sufficient  to  discover  characteristic  faults  and  defects. 
These,  through  lack  of  any  fellow-feeling  of  sympa- 
thy, appear  in  magnified  form,  or,  by  unfair  treat- 
ment, these  Americans  succeed  in  exciting  into  ex- 
hibition the  worst  elements  in  the  people  they  despise. 
With  anything  like  kindliness  of  attitude  toward  the 
Mexican  his  many  admirable  traits  do  not  fail  to 
appear. 

No  one  may  claim  that  the  Mexicans  have  nearly 
reached  the  front  rank  of  civilization.  In  matters  of 
self-government,  of  education,  social  conditions,  and 
moral  attainments,  their  position  is  yet  low  in  the  scale 
of  nations.  But  whose  is  the  blame?  How  much 


189 


190  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


farther  advanced  would  the  Americans  be  to-day  with 
only  the  opportunities  which  fell  to  the  Mexicans? 

I once  passed  a little  time  in  the  great  National 
Library  of  Mexico  City.  I found  there  remarkably 
interesting  histories,  like  “Mexico  Atravez  de  los 
Siglos  ” — Mexico  Across  the  Ages.  No  one  can  read 
Mexican  history  and  not  be  impressed  with  the  dis- 
advantages encountered  by  Mexico  from  the  first  days 
of  Spanish  occupation  until  now. 

We  are  accustomed  to  regard  the  Mexican  as  in- 
ferior in  origin.  We  would  not  have  chosen  the  Mex- 
ican Indians  and  the  Spanish  adventurers  of  the  In- 
quisition age  as  our  progenitors.  While  recognizing 
the  handicap  in  respect  to  ancestry  one  may  not  deny 
that,  given  time,  Mexico  may  overtake  the  leaders  of 
world  civilization;  yet  this  disadvantage  must  be  con- 
sidered in  judging  of  her  people  to-day. 

In  the  matter  of  government  no  people  were  ever 
more  afflicted.  The  period  of  the  Conquest  was 
marked  by  unspeakable  cruelties.  It  is  a Spanish 
writer  * who  says  that  in  one  year  of  merciless  mas- 
sacre more  victims  were  sacrificed  to  avarice  and  am- 
bition than  had  ever  been  offered  by  the  Indians  to 
their  gods.  And  it  is  a Spanish  versifier  t of  early 
colonial  days  who  writes, 

" For  Spanish  inhumanity  and  guilt, 
Transgressing  all  the  laws  of  war,  gave  birth 
To  such  atrocities  as  ne’er  before 
Deluged  a conquered  land  with  gore.” 

* Clavijero. 

\ British  Quarterly,  August,  1829.  Quoted  in  “Temple’s 
Travels.” 


BACKWARDNESS— GOVERNMENTAL  191 


The  political  machinery  set  up  by  Spain  in  Mexico 
after  the  Conquest  was  not  intended  to  run  with  the 
interests  of  the  newly  conquered  subjects  in  view,  but 
entirely  for  the  benefit  of  the  Crown  and  people  of 
Spain.  A Mexican  writer  * says,  “ They  denied  the 
Aztecs  even  the  gift  of  reason.  Laws  were  con- 
cocted and  put  into  play  whereby  Mexico  should  not 
produce  wines,  nor  silks,  nor  pottery,  nor  tobacco; 
but  should  simply  supply  to  the  conquerors  the  precious 
metals.”  Spain  ruled  her  colonies  for  what  she  could 
get  out  of  them.  True,  some  of  the  viceroys  were 
good  men  and  the  period  of  Spanish  rule  in  Mexico 
was  not  one  of  unmixed  cruelty;  yet  injustice  pre- 
vailed to  such  a degree  that  had  not  the  Mexicans 
been  of  docile  spirit,  and  had  not  their  subjugation 
been  severely  complete,  they  would  not  have  endured 
those  centuries  of  cruel  Spanish  oppression.  The  up- 
risings which  took  place  from  time  to  time  were 
crushed  with  an  iron  hand. 

In  Spain  herself  the  administration  of  government 
was  abominably  corrupt.  The  “ graft  ” system  was 
no  novelty  there,  and  flourished  luxuriously  when 
transplanted  to  Mexican  soil.  Public  officers,  from 
the  viceroys  down,  were  accustomed  to  act  on  the  as- 
sumption that  governmental  positions  were  primarily 
designed  for  the  pecuniary  benefit  of  the  holder. 
Hence,  the  one  thing  steadfastly  borne  in  mind  by 
these  men  was  not  the  welfare  of  the  people,  but 
their  own  growing  cash  pile,  or  widening  area  of  real 
estate.  So  the  enormous  resources  of  the  country, 

* Ignacio  Ramirez.  Quoted  from  “ Mexico  in  Transition.” 


192  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 

its  prodigious  mineral  richness,  the  extreme  fertility 
of  the  soil,  joined  with  the  labour  of  a long-suffering 
people  through  a period  of  three  hundred  years,  meant 
little  in  the  way  of  progress  for  Mexico. 

Aside  from  the  stream  of  riches  constantly  flowing 
from  this  land  to  Spain,  a small  privileged  class  be- 
came established  in  the  country  itself,  in  whose  hands 
was  held  all  power,  political  and  religious,  and  in 
whose  hands  also  was  retained  whatever  of  wealth 
did  not  go  abroad.  The  material  well-being  of  the 
masses  was  a matter  of  little  public  concern,  as  even 
to  the  present  day  their  condition  bears  witness. 

In  the  matter  of  education  the  policy  of  the  Roman 
Church  prevailed,  i.e.,  that  the  all-important  attitude 
of  submission  to  temporal  taskmasters  and  spiritual 
directors  is  best  maintained  through  ignorance.  One 
viceroy  said  that  only  the  catechism  should  be  taught 
in  Mexico!  The  ninety  per  cent  of  the  Mexicans 
who  were  illiterate  at  the  end  of  Spanish  rule  is 
proof  that  the  policy  in  question  was  thoroughly  car- 
ried out. 

As  is  well  known,  Mexico  did  not  finally  gain  inde- 
pendence because  she  had  become  strong,  but  because 
of  the  harassed  condition  of  the  mother  country  at 
that  time.  The  example  given  by  our  own  American 
colonies  in  throwing  off  British  rule  was  the  inspira- 
tion which  led  Mexico,  with  all  Spanish-American 
colonies,  to  free  itself  from  the  European  yoke.  The 
spirit  of  freedom  in  those  southern  lands  was,  perhaps, 
just  as  fine  as  that  shown  at  the  North,  and  the  story 
of  the  struggle  for  Mexican  independence  is  a story 


BACKWARDNESS— GOVERNMENTAL  193 


of  heroism,  of  stubborn  determination,  and  unweary- 
ing persistence. 

But,  having  succeeded  in  freeing  herself  from  Span- 
ish domination,  Mexico  was  now  to  encounter  most 
serious  difficulties  in  setting  up  a government  of  her 
own.  In  casting  off  foreign  control,  she  did  not  rid 
herself  of  the  dangerous  privileged  class  at  home. 
This  class  consisted  principally  of  the  Spanish  element 
of  the  population,  the  heirs  and  the  proprietors  of  the 
great  estates,  the  greedy  office-holders,  the  Spanish 
clergy  and  numerous  representatives  of  the  religious 
orders,  men  ambitious  for  personal  power,  for  political 
and  religious  leadership,  and  for  great  wealth.  These 
men,  thoroughly  selfish  and  unpatriotic,  while  unfor- 
tunately a part  of  the  Mexican  people,  were  inimical 
to  the  public  welfare.  They  composed  that  infamous 
Tory  party  which,  in  the  popular  movement  for  inde- 
pendence, joined  forces  with  the  Spanish  government 
to  suppress  the  rising  spirit  of  liberty.  It  was  because 
of  this  powerful  opposition  at  home  that  the  success 
of  the  revolutionary  cause  was  so  long  delayed.  The 
war  was  of  eleven  years’  duration,  and  yet,  in  the 
hour  of  victory,  this  class  was  eager  to  grasp  the 
reins  of  the  new  government  and  erect  a home  des- 
potism in  place  of  the  foreign  one. 

The  patriot  leaders  representing  the  people  had 
viewed  with  ardent  admiration  the  liberties  gained  by 
the  United  States,  and  the  free  republic  there  estab- 
lished was  taken  as  the  ideal  to  be  realized  in  Mexico. 
The  name  of  Washington  was  nowhere  more  vene-' 
rated  than  in  our  neighbouring  country. 


194  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


There  are  distinguished  names  in  Mexican  history, 
such  as  Hidalgo,  Morelos,  Guerrero,  and  Juarez, 
which  are  well  worthy  of  a place  beside  those  of 
Washington  and  Lincoln.  The  fact  that  such  rare 
patriots,  and  only  such  as  these,  are  popularly  held  as 
heroes  in  Mexico,  speaks  as  no  words  may  do  of  the 
real  aspirations  of  this  people. 

So  one  may  better  judge  of  the  disappointment  suf- 
fered by  the  popular  cause  in  the  result  of  independ- 
ence. The  longed-for  blessings  of  freedom  did  not 
follow.  All  abuses  arising  from  the  pernicious  class 
and  church  systems  remained,  while  new  and  more 
threatening  evils  appeared.  The  old  government,  at 
least,  had  the  merit  of  comparative  stability.  But  for 
some  two  generations  nothing  like  a safe  or  stable 
government  was  seen.  Empire;  revolution.  Repub- 
lic; revolution.  Dictatorship;  revolution.  One  fac- 
tion to-day  in  control,  to-morrow  another.  A suc- 
cessful chief  takes  his  oath  of  office  in  January.  In 
June  he  goes  before  the  firing  squad,  and  the  leader 
of  the  new  revolution  is  sworn  in  president.  The  first 
sixty  years  after  the  establishment  of  the  republic 
saw  fifty-two  changes  of  national  administration. 

Is  one  surprised  that  right  here  I declare  the  Mex- 
icans a peace-loving  people?  In  all  seriousness  I 
affirm  this.  The  Indian  element,  which  so  predomi- 
nates, is  markedly  characterized  by  patience  and  do- 
cility. Never  did  a peaceable  and  liberty-loving  race 
contend  with  greater  difficulties  in  its  endeavour  to 
attain  the  privileges  of  a just  and  free  government. 
All  power,  material,  spiritual,  and  political,  was  in 


BACKWARDNESS— GOVERNMENTAL  195 


the  hands  of  an  unsympathetic  minority.  Submit, 
and  have  peace?  Submission,  while  by  no  means  in- 
suring a stable  government,  would  mean  the  continu- 
ance of  despotism.  It  would  mean  continued  depriva- 
tion of  rights.  It  would  mean  doors  to  progress  still 
closed  to  them  and  to  their  children.  We  honour  the 
Mexicans  because  they  did  not  submit. 

The  net  result  of  persistent  turmoil  in  that  country 
has  been  progress,  slow  and  costly,  yet  real,  towards 
ideal  government.  The  leaders  of  the  masses  were  of 
their  own  ranks,  men  of  humble  birth.  Many  fell 
as  martyrs  to  their  cause. 

Miguel  Hidalgo,  the  “ Washington  of  Mexico,” 
was  a village  priest  greatly  beloved  of  his  flock,  for 
whose  temporal,  as  well  as  spiritual,  welfare  he  la- 
boured. For  his  heroic  activity  in  behalf  of  national 
freedom  he  was  degraded  from  the  priesthood  and 
excommunicated  by  the  Church.  Early  in  the  war  of 
independence  he  was  captured,  shot,  and  beheaded. 
This  occurred  in  the  city  of  Chihuahua,  July,  1811. 
His  head  was  then  taken  to  Guanajuato,  where  he 
had  gained  an  important  victory,  and  suspended  at  the 
corner  of  a public  building,  where  it  remained  for  ten 
years  as  a warning  to  revolutionists.  Imagine,  if  pos- 
sible, Washington  suffering  such  a fate. 

Jose  Maria  Morelos  was  a mule  driver  until  thirty 
years  of  age.  Opportunity  presenting  for  study  he 
became  a priest.  A student  and  admirer  of  Hidalgo, 
he  offered  his  services  to  this  leader  and  became  fa- 
mous for  his  hundred  victories.  It  was  he  who  sum- 
moned the  first  Mexican  Congress.  This  able  and 


196  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


honest  man,  devout  and  patriotic,  was  also  covered 
with  ignominy  by  the  Church:  was  finally  taken  and 
shot — December,  1815.  A grateful  people  revere  his 
memory.  A capital  city  and  a state  bear  his  name. 

Vicente  Guerrero,  of  a poor  Indian  family,  fired 
with  rare  patriotism,  attained  distinguished  rank  as 
general  in  the  war.  He  persisted  heroically  at  the 
head  of  his  ill-equipped  forces  when  success  seemed 
well-nigh  hopeless,  and  survived  to  see  the  triumph  of 
his  cause.  He  became  the  third  president  of  the 
republic.  Under  his  brief  rule  slavery  was  abolished. 
But  after  three  months  in  office  the  opposing  party 
obliged  him  to  retire.  He  was  later  condemned  to 
death  and  shot — February,  1831.  An  important 
state  perpetuates  his  name. 

Benito  Juarez,  a full-blooded  Mixtec  Indian,  did 
more  to  advance  Mexico  toward  the  goal  of  free 
government  than  any  other  man  in  her  history.  He 
was  a shepherd  boy:  spoke  only  the  Indian  tongue 
until  the  age  of  twelve,  when  he  learned  the  Spanish. 
Ambitious,  he  studied  law,  was  admitted  to  the  bar, 
and  finally  became  the  governor  of  his  own  state, 
Oaxaca.  He  next  became  vice-president,  then  presi- 
dent of  Mexico.  Juarez  was  a man  of  keen  intellect 
and  indomitable  will.  He  was  honest  and  God- 
fearing and  had  been  urged  to  enter  the  priesthood, 
but  did  not  because  of  his  liberal  views.  He  made 
the  cause  of  the  people  his  own  cause  and  to  it  de- 
voted his  life.  Washington  was  his  ideal  hero,  and  he 
himself  is  justly  called  the  “ Lincoln  of  Mexico.” 
After  Juarez  had  led  his  country  to  a successful  issue 


BACKWARDNESS— GOVERNMENTAL  197 


in  the  serious  crisis  of  French  intervention,  a French- 
man, Victor  Hugo,  wrote  him  the  following:  “ Amer- 
ica has  two  heroes,  Lincoln  and  thee — Lincoln,  by 
whom  slavery  died;  and  thee,  by  whom  liberty  has 
lived.  Mexico  has  been  saved  by  a principle,  by  a 
man.  THOU  ART  THAT  MAN.”  * But  Juarez 
is  not  known  chiefly  for  having  conducted  Mexico 
through  that  perilous  period  of  intervention.  The 
Reform  Laws  and  the  Reform  Constitution  proposed 
by  him  and  carried  through  after  a long  and  desperate 
conflict  with  the  Clerical  party  have  made  his  name 
immortal. 

I began  this  chapter  with  the  purpose  of  calling 
attention  to  some  reasons  why  the  Mexicans  as  a 
people  are  still  backward  in  their  attainments,  and  of 
showing  that  instead  of  blame,  they  merit  most  gen- 
erous sympathy  and  admiration  for  the  progress  made 
by  them  in  the  face  of  such  difficulties.  One  should 
bear  in  mind  that  the  masses  in  Mexico  have  suffered 
the  dire  disadvantage  of  ignorance,  the  responsibility 
for  which  was  not  their  own. 

To  her  bad  leaders  may  be  charged  a very  large 
part  of  the  disturbances  which  Mexico  has  ex- 
perienced in  these  last  seventy  years — and  particularly 
at  the  present  time.  Never  in  the  history  of  nations 
has  an  ignorant  and  credulous  people  suffered  more 
from  able,  but  unprincipled  upstarts,  professedly 
taking  arms  at  the  call  of  their  country,  but  in  reality 
conceitedly  seeking  their  own  ends.  Santa  Anna,  for 
example,  succeeded  in  mixing  himself  thoroughly  in 
* Quoted  from  “ Brown’s  Latin  America,”  p.  167. 


198  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


Mexican  history  and  causing  some  of  the  darkest 
pages.  He  was  president  six  times,  military  dictator 
four  times,  and  overturned  as  many  as  fifteen  govern- 
ments. He  died  an  old  man,  neglected  and  unloved 
by  all  parties,  and  his  name  is  honoured  by  none. 

Nothing  is  clearer  than  that  Mexico  has  been  stead- 
fastly aspiring  to  better  things,  and,  considering  the 
fearful  odds,  her  progress  has  been  marvellous. 


II 


CAUSES  OF  BACKWARDNESS- 
ECCLESIASTICAL 

THE  political  difficulties  of  Mexico  have  ever 
been  intimately  connected  with  the  Church  of 
Rome  and  its  church  system  introduced  from 
Spain.  No  one  can  understand  Mexican  history  or 
the  Mexican  people  without  knowing  the  nature  and 
workings  of  this  system.  The  avowed  object  of 
Spanish  conquests  in  America  was  to  extend  the  sway 
of  the  Church,  and  there  is  no  question  that  among 
the  Jesuit  and  Franciscan  missionaries  were  some 
devoted  and  self-sacrificing  men.  Strange  methods 
were  often  employed  in  making  converts,  but  it  may 
be  admitted  that  in  some  respects  the  religious  con- 
dition of  the  Indians  was  improved.  Yet  with  the 
passing  years  the  abuses  which  the  church  system  im- 
posed upon  public  affairs  in  Mexico  became  intolera- 
ble. Ignacio  Ramirez,  a noted  Mexican  writer  whom 
I have  already  quoted,  says,  £The  clergy,  with  rare 
discretion,  never  lost  an  opportunity  for  extending 
and  strengthening  their  own  influence.  For  three  hun- 
dred years  the  clergy  governed  Mexico  by  means  of 
the  bishops  and  archbishops  seated  on  the  thrones  of 
the  viceroys.  They  even  held  the  lay  viceroys  them- 


199 


200  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


selves  in  their  power  under  the  threat  of  excommunica- 
tion. The  clergy  legislated  in  their  very  missions. 
They  monopolized  public  education : they  became 
capitalists,  and  in  their  acts  of  usury  far  surpassed 
the  Shylocks  of  the  Middle  Ages.  The  Jesuits  were 
their  secret  police,  and  the  Inquisition  was  a living 
tomb.  They  mingled  their  European  blood  with  that 
of  the  Indian  and  then  conferred  on  their  bastard 
offspring  the  Church’s  best  curacies.  They  raised 
cathedrals  of  mocking  splendour  and  built  great  con- 
vents and  churchly  retreats,  while  the  viceroys  built 
jails,  mints,  and  tax  offices.  They  merged  God  and 
the  Pope  into  two  invisible  sovereignties.  Madrid 
was  for  us  but  an  office  of  Rome.”  * 

The  Roman  Church  became  possessed  of  enormous 
resources.  Not  until  Mexico  had  gained  independence 
and  was  struggling  to  establish  her  own  government 
did  she  begin  to  realize  the  great  riches  and  almost 
unlimited  political  power  of  the  Church.  It  was 
found  that  the  clergy  and  the  various  religious  orders 
held  more  than  one-third  of  the  entire  real  estate  in 
the  republic.  It  is  said  that  they  at  one  time  con- 
trolled two-thirds  of  the  wealth  of  Mexico.  And  yet 
they  were  contributing  nothing  financially  toward  the 
support  of  the  government.  It  was  only  little  by  little 
that  this  condition  of  things  was  brought  to  public 
attention. 

From  its  beginning  in  Mexico  the  Church  had 
adopted  the  policy  of  concealing  its  financial 
prosperity.  No  account  of  its  property  was  ever 
* “ Sketches  of  Mexico,”  Butler,  p.  236. 


BACKWARDNESS— ECCLESIASTICAL  201 


rendered  to  the  government.  In  the  year  1850 
Lerdo,  the  Minister  of  Public  Works,  secured 
at  least  approximate  figures,  showing  that  the 
Church  then  owned  between  two  and  three  hun- 
dred million  dollars’  worth  of  property — a pro- 
digious amount  for  the  country  in  those  times.  The 
archbishop  of  Mexico  then  owned  nearly  one-half  of 
the  Capital  City.  His  yearly  salary  was  $130,000, 
and  bishops  were  receiving  the  pittance  of  $110,000 
annually.  It  has  been  said  of  the  archbishop  that  he 
was  “ the  greatest  loan  and  trust  company  in  Mex- 
ico.” He  was  spoken  of  as  “ the  Church  Lord  who 
carries  in  his  hand  the  treasures  of  heaven,  and  in 
his  money  bags  the  material  that  moves  the  world.” 
Is  it  any  wonder  that  when  the  patriots  secured  their 
precarious  hold  of  the  government  they  were  over- 
awed and  alarmed,  in  view  of  the  tremendous  political 
and  financial  power  of  the  Church,  whose  entire  influ- 
ence had  been  thrown  against  the  people  in  their  up- 
rising for  national  independence? 

But  how  was  the  Church  employing  its  vast  wealth  ? 
Ramirez  says,  as  already  quoted,  that  “ they  raised 
cathedrals  of  mocking  splendour.”  The  magnificence 
and  costliness  of  cathedral  furnishings  in  Mexico  is  a 
matter  of  amazement  to  all  beholders.  Millions  upon 
millions  of  dollars,  gold,  silver,  and  precious  stones 
were  expended  on  the  dresses  and  adornments  of  the 
images  of  the  Virgin  and  of  the  saints,  and  on  priestly 
robes — all  intended  to  attract,  to  dazzle,  and  inspire 
the  worshipper  with  awe. 

Madame  Calderon  de  la  Barca,  wife  of  the  first 


202  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 

Spanish  ambassador  to  Mexico,  writes  thus  of  the 
cathedral  at  the  capital : * 

“ Its  magnificence  struck  us  with  amazement.  Its 
gold  and  silver  jewels,  its  innumerable  ornaments  and 
holy  vessels,  the  rich  dresses  of  the  priests,  all 
seemed  burning  with  almost  intolerable  brightness. 
We  were  shown  the  jewels,  which  are  kept 
buried  in  case  of  a revolution.  The  gold  stand 
in  which  they  carry  the  Host  is  entirely  incrusted 
with  large  diamonds,  pearls,  emeralds,  amethysts, 
topazes,  and  rubies.  There  are  four  sets  of 

jewels  for  the  bishop.  One  of  his  crosses  is  of 
emeralds  and  diamonds,  another  of  topazes  and  dia- 
monds, with  great  rings  of  the  same  belonging  to 
each.” 

Describing  the  image  of  the  Virgin  Mary,  nearly 
life  size,  in  the  cathedral  at  Puebla,  Madame  Calderon 
says : “ Dressed  in  the  richest  of  embroidered  satin, 
she  displays  a string  of  the  largest  pearls,  hanging 
from  her  neck  to  below  her  knees.  Around  her 
brow  is  clasped  a crown  of  gold,  inlaid  with  emer- 
alds of  marvellous  size.  Her  waist  is  bound  with  a 
zone  of  diamonds.” 

Speaking  of  the  image  of  “ Our  Lady  of  Remedios,” 
“ a wooden  doll  about  a foot  high,  holding  in  its  arms 
an  infant  Jesus,  both  faces  evidently  carved  with  a 
rude  penknife,  two  holes  for  the  eyes,  and  another  for 
the  mouth,”  the  same  writer  says:  “She  enjoys  the 
exclusive  right,  amid  her  other  treasures,  to  three  pet- 
*“Life  in  Mexico.” 


BACKWARDNESS— ECCLESIASTICAL  203 


ticoats,  one  of  them  embroidered  with  pearls,  another 
with  emeralds,  and  the  third  with  diamonds,  the  value 
of  which  is  credibly  stated  at  not  less  than  three  mil- 
lion dollars!”  This  gives  some  idea  of  the  wealth 
contained  in  the  churches.  In  the  City  of  Mexico  there 
were  between  sixty  and  seventy  church  edifices,  some 
of  which  were  but  little  less  wealthy  than  the  cathe- 
dral. In  addition,  there  were  untold  riches  in  the  con- 
vents, of  which  there  were  more  than  fifty  in  the 
capital  alone. 

The  erection  and  maintenance  of  these  was  an  enor- 
mous burden  upon  the  people.  As  long  ago  as  1644 
the  City  of  Mexico  sent  a petition  to  the  king  of  Spain 
asking  that  no  new  monastery  be  founded,  “ otherwise 
the  religious  houses  would  soon  acquire  the  property 
of  the  whole  country.” 

It  is  interesting  to  note  the  methods  employed  by 
the  religious  orders  in  their  extravagant  scheme  of 
building.  In  1556  we  find  one  ecclesiastic  accusing 
the  monks  in  the  following  fashion : “ They  think 
nothing  of  undertaking  a new  work  which  may  cost 
from  ten  to  twelve  thousand  ducats.  To  say  and  to  do 
are  the  same  thing.  In  the  work  they  employ  Indians 
in  relays  of  five  hundred  or  a thousand  men,  and  with- 
out wages  or  even  a mouthful  of  bread  to  eat,  the  men 
being  rounded  up  for  the  work  from  a distance  of 
four,  six,  or  twelve  leagues.  Others  prepare  the  lime 
and  other  materials  for  what  they  actually  cost.” 

The  viceregal  government  gave  the  religious  lead- 
ers much  authority  over  the  Indians.  They  could 
exact  labour  from  them  and  inflict  corporal  punishment 


204.  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


at  will.  In  the  extensive  building  enterprises  methods 
similar  to  that  described  above  were  commonly  em- 
ployed. 

Among  the  reforms  provided  for  in  the  new  con- 
stitution introduced  by  Juarez  was  the  nationalization 
of  property  held  by  the  clergy  to  the  value  of  two  hun- 
dred million  dollars,  the  complete  separation  of  church 
and  state,  freedom  of  religion,  freedom  of  the  press. 
Other  provisions  were  these : “ The  state  does  not  rec- 
ognize monastic  orders  nor  permit  their  establishment. 
The  association  of  Sisters  of  Charity  is  suppressed  in 
the  republic,  and  the  Jesuits  are  expelled  and  may  not 
return.  Matrimony  is  a civil  contract:  the  religious 
service  may  be  added.  Cemeteries  are  open  to  all 
classes  and  creeds.  Education  in  the  public  schools  is 
to  be  free  and  compulsory.”  * 

The  popular  movement  in  favour  of  these  reforms 
was  fought  obstinately  and  through  a long  series  of 
years  by  the  Clerical  party,  backed  by  all  the  power, 
spiritual  and  material,  of  the  Church  of  Rome. 

Here  are  some  of  the  laws  which  were  called  by  the 
Pope  “ odious  and  abominable  ” : 

Laws  establishing  liberty  for  all  opinions,  liberty  of 
the  press,  and  liberty  of  faith  and  worship. 

Laws  granting  to  the  members  of  all  denominations 
the  right  to  establish  schools  and  colleges. 

Laws  permitting  civil  marriage. 

Laws  establishing  public  schools  for  secular  educa- 
tion that  shall  be  free  from  the  control  of  the  Roman 
priesthood. 

* Butler’s  “Mexico  in  Transition,”  p.  137. 


BACKWARDNESS— ECCLESIASTICAL  205 


The  Pope,  in  denouncing  these  laws,  said : “ Let 
it  be  understood  that  the  Roman  Catholic  Church 
declares  such  laws  as  these,  wherever  they  may  be 
enacted,  to  be  null  and  void.” 

It  is  clear  that  the  Mexican  Church  held  the  people 
in  ignorance  and  treated  them  most  unjustly.  She 
was  greedy  for  wealth  and  has  used  much  of  that 
wealth  for  unholy  and  frivolous  ends.  More  serious 
by  far  has  been  her  attitude  of  persistent  opposition 
to  the  people  in  their  struggles  for  liberty. 

What  of  the  religion  that  was  established  in  Mex- 
ico? If  we  are  to  judge  from  the  writings  of  the  early 
historians,  the  activity  of  the  first  Spanish  mission- 
aries was  nothing  short  of  marvellous.  It  is  affirmed 
that  within  twenty  years  after  the  political  conquest 
of  Mexico  the  religious  conquest  was  practically  com- 
plete. We  read  of  five  thousand  “ converts  ” being 
baptized  in  a day.  Two  of  the  early  missionaries  de- 
clared that  their  ordinary  day’s  work  was  from  ten  to 
twenty  thousand  souls.  One  is  reminded  of  the  rapid- 
ity with  which  the  Mohammedan  faith  was  spread  in 
ages  past.  It  is  not  difficult  to  imagine  how  these 
Aztecs  were  baptized  in  this  hasty  and  wholesale 
fashion.  Their  own  temples  were  destroyed  by  the 
Spanish  soldiery,  their  idols  were  everywhere  broken 
down,  and  they  were  overawed  and  intimidated  by 
their  conquerors.  Priests  and  soldiers  went  hand  in 
hand.  With  no  adequate  time  for  instruction  in  the 
nature  of  the  new  religion,  the  crucifix  and  an  image 
of  the  Virgin  were  held  up  before  the  simple  people, 
and  they  were  given  to  understand  that  their  future 


206  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


well-being  in  this  world  and  in  the  next  depended  on 
their  immediate  reverence  of  these  symbols  of  the 
white  man’s  faith  and  the  acceptance  of  the  water, 
whose  application  alone  would  save  from  the  eternal 
fires  of  hell  and  admit  to  the  joys  of  heaven.  They 
were  given  new  images  for  the  broken  ones  and  new 
religious  ceremonies  in  place  of  the  old.  It  was  not 
required  that  their  beliefs  should  be  greatly  changed, 
nor  were  they  given  to  understand  the  necessity  of 
change  of  heart  and  character.  Many  of  their  old 
superstitions  were  retained.  Humboldt,  writing  of 
■ Mexico,  says : “ The  introduction  of  the  Romish  re- 
ligion had  no  other  effect  upon  the  Mexicans  than  to 
substitute  new  ceremonies  and  symbols  for  the  rites 
of  a sanguinary  worship.  Dogma  has  not  succeeded 
v dogma,  but  only  ceremony  to  ceremony.”  Protestant 
missionaries  in  Mexico,  and  other  Protestants  who  are 
well  informed  as  to  religious  conditions  in  that  coun- 
try, all  agree  in  the  conviction  that  Roman  Catholicisnf 
has  produced  no  better  results  there  than  has  Hindoo- 
ism  or  Confucianism  among  the  peoples  ruled  by  those 
faiths.  But  I wish  to  introduce  here  other  than 
Protestant  testimony  on  this  subject. 

The  Catholic  prelate,  Emanuel  Domenech,  who  was 
chaplain  to  Maximilian,  and  who  had  made  a special 
study  of  religious  conditions  in  Mexico,  said : “ Mexi- 
can faith  is  a dead  faith.”  “ It  is  in  vain  to  seek  good 
fruit  from  the  worthless  tree,  which  makes  religion 
a singular  assemblage  of  heartless  devotion,  shameful 
ignorance,  insane  superstition,  and  hideous  vice.” 
“ The  worship  of  saints  and  Madonnas  so  absorbs  the. 


BACKWARDNESS— ECCLESIASTICAL  207 


devotion  of  the  people  that  little  time  is  left  to  think 
about  God.  Religious  services  are  performed  with  the 
most  lamentable  indifference  and  want  of  decorum. 
The  Indians  go  to  mass  with  their  poultry  and  vege- 
tables which  they  are  carrying  to  market.  I have  had 
to  abandon  the  cathedral  of  Mexico,  where  I used  to 
go  every  morning,  because  I could  not  collect  my 
thoughts  there.  The  gobble  of  the  turkeys,  the  crow- 
ing of  the  cocks,  the  barking  of  the  dogs,  the  mewing 
of  cats,  the  chirping  of  birds,  and  the  flea  bites  ren- 
dered meditation  impossible  to  me,  unaccustomed  to 
live  in  such  a menagerie.”  “ I say  that  Mexico  is  not 
a Catholic  country,  first,  because  a majority  of  the 
native  population  are  semi-idolatrous;  second,  because 
the  majority  of  the  Mexicans  carry  ignorance  of  re- 
ligion to  such  a point  that  they  have  no  other  worship 
than  that  of  form.”  “ If  the  Pope  should  excommuni- 
cate all  the  priests  having  concubines,  the  Mexican 
clergy  would  be  reduced  to  a very  small  affair.”  “ The 
clergy  carry  their  love  of  family  to  that  of  paternity. 
In  my  travels  in  Mexico  many  pastors  have  refused 
me  hospitality  in  order  to  prevent  my  seeing  their 
‘ nieces  ’ and  ‘ cousins,’  and  their  children.  It  is  diffi- 
cult to  determine  the  character  of  these  connections. 
The  people  consider  it  natural  enough  and  do  not  rail 
at  the  conduct  of  their  pastors,  except  when  they 
are  not  contented  with  one  wife.  Can  a clergy  of  such 
character  make  saints  ? I doubt.”  “ One  of  the  great- 
est evils  in  Mexico  is  the  exorbitant  fee  for  the  mar- 
riage ceremony.  The  priests  compel  the  poor  to  live 
without  marriage  by  demanding  for  the  nuptial  bene- 


208  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


diction  a sum  that  a Mexican  mechanic  with  his  slen- 
der wages  can  scarcely  accumulate  in  fifty  years  of  the 
strictest  economy.  This  is  no  exaggeration.”  * 

I may  add  that  to  this  day  the  same  abuse  pre- 
vails. While  now  only  the  civil  ceremony  has  legal 
effect,  and  the  poorest  may  thus  be  married  with 
little  or  no  expense,  the  priests  teach  that  civil  mar- 
riage is  unholy;  that  without  the  church  ceremony 
God’s  blessing  is  withheld.  But  the  charges  for 
this  ceremony  are  beyond  the  reach  of  thousands, 
who  therefore  join  lives  with  no  form  of  wedlock. 
The  kind  of  spirituality  taught  by  the  priests  in 
Mexico  is  illustrated  by  another  quotation  from  the 
letters  of  Madame  Calderon  de  la  Barca.  She  says, 
“ All  Mexicans  at  present,  men  and  women,  are  en- 
gaged in  what  are  called  the  desagravios,  a public 
penance  performed  at  this  season  in  the  churches.  The 
women  attend  church  in  the  morning,  no  men  being  per- 
mitted, and  the  men  in  the  evening,  when  the  women  are 
not  permitted.  Both  rules  are  occasionally  broken.  The 
other  night  I was  present  at  the  discipline  performed 
by  the  men,  admission  having  been  procured  for  us 
by  certain  means,  private  but  powerfid.  Accordingly, 
when  it  was  dark,  enveloped  from  head  to  foot  in  large 
cloaks,  without  the  slightest  idea  of  what  it  was,  we 
went  to  the  Church  of  San  Augustine.  The  scene  was 
curious.  About  one  hundred  and  fifty  men,  their  faces 
entirely  concealed,  were  assembled  in  the  body  of  the 
church.  A monk  had  just  mounted  the  pulpit,  and  the 
church  was  dimly  lighted,  except  where  he  stood.  His 
* “ Mexico  and  the  United  States.” 


BACKWARDNESS— ECCLESIASTICAL  209 


discourse  was  a rude,  but  very  forcible,  description  of 
the  torments  prepared  in  hell  for  impenitent  sinners. 
The  effect  was  very  solemn.  It  appeared  like  a prepa- 
ration for  the  execution  of  a multitude  of  condemned 
criminals.  When  the  discourse  was  finished,  they  all 
joined  in  prayer,  beating  their  breasts  and  falling  upon 
their  faces.  Then  the  monk  stood  up,  and  in  a very 
distinct  voice  read  several  passages  descriptive  of  the 
sufferings  of  Christ.  The  organ  then  struck  up  the 
Miserere,  and  all  of  a sudden  the  church  was  plunged 
into  profound  darkness — all  but  a sculptured  repre- 
sentation of  the  crucifixion,  which  seemed  to  hang  in 
the  air  illuminated.  I felt  rather  frightened  and  would 
have  been  glad  to  leave  the  church,  but  it  would  have 
been  difficult  in  the  darkness. 

“ Suddenly  a terrible  voice  in  the  darkness  cried, 
‘ My  brothers,  when  Christ  was  fastened  to  the  pillar 
by  the  Jews  He  was  scourged 

“ At  these  words  the  bright  figure  disappeared  and 
the  darkness  became  total.  Suddenly  we  heard  the 
sounds  of  hundreds  of  scourges  descending  upon  the 
bare  flesh.  I cannot  conceive  of  anything  more  hor- 
rible. Before  ten  minutes  had  passed  the  sound  be- 
came splashing,  from  the  blood  that  was  flowing. 
Incredible  as  it  may  seem,  this  awful  penance  con- 
tinued without  interruption  for  half  an  hour.  It  was 
perfectly  sickening,  and  had  I not  been  able  to  take 

hold  of  the  Senora  ’s  hand  and  feel  something 

human  beside  me  I should  have  fancied  myself  trans- 
ported into  a congregation  of  evil  spirits.  Now  and 
then  a suppressed  groan  was  heard,  and  occasionally 


210  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


the  voice  of  the  monk  encouraging  them  by  ejacula- 
tions or  by  short  passages  of  Scripture.  Sometimes 
the  organ  struck  up,  and  the  poor  wretches,  in  faint 
voice,  tried  to  join  in  the  Miserere.  At  the  end  of  one- 
half  hour  a little  bell  was  rung,  and  the  voice  of  the 
monk  was  heard  calling  upon  them  to  desist,  but  such 
was  their  enthusiasm  that  the  horrible  lashing  con- 
tinued, louder  and  fiercer  than  ever.  In  vain  he  en- 
treated them  not  to  kill  themselves,  and  assured  them 
that  Heaven  would  be  satisfied.  No  answer  but  the 
loud  sound  of  the  scourges.  At  length,  as  if  they  were 
perfectly  exhausted,  the  sound  grew  fainter,  and  little 
by  little  ceased  altogether.  We  then  got  up  and  groped 
our  way  in  the  pitch  darkness,  through  the  galleries 
and  down  the  stairs  till  we  reached  the  door  and  had 
the  pleasure  of  feeling  the  fresh  air  again.  They  say 
that  the  church  is  frequently  covered  with  blood  after 
one  of  those  penances  and  that  a man  died  the  other 
day  in  consequence  of  his  wounds.”  * 

While  at  the  present  time  we  hear  little  of  this  ter- 
rible form  of  penance,  I myself  have  witnessed  other 
forms  scarcely  less  shocking,  showing  that  the  un- 
christian idea  still  persists. 

S The  unprogressive  attitude  of  the  Church,  the  im- 
moral character  of  so  many  of  its  leaders,  the  lack  of 

' instruction  in  the  services,  and  the  retention  of  non- 
sensical, heathenish  customs  has  caused  the  Church 
much  loss  of  influence  in  these  later  years.  A very 
large  number  of  the  more  intelligent  classes,  particu- 
larly of  the  men,  while  still  nominally  Catholics,  have 
* “ Life  in  Mexico,"  by  Madame  Calderon. 


BACKWARDNESS— ECCLESIASTICAL  211 


little  respect  for  the  Church.  Free-thinking  and  indif- 
ference to  all  religion  is  widely  prevalent.  The  popu- 
lar sentiment  was  strikingly  expressed  by  a Mexican 
school-teacher  who  once  said  to  me : “I  want  to  hear 
of  nothing  which  has  the  smell  of  religion.” 

For  a period  of  nearly  four  hundred  years  the 
Roman  Church  has  had  unlimited  control  over  the 
people  of  Mexico.  The  actual  condition  of  the  masses 
at  the  present  time  speaks  more  convincingly  than  any 
words  can  as  to  what  the  Church  has  done,  or,  rather, 
has  not  done  for  this  people. 

As  an  agency  of  evangelization,  as  a power  in  the 
hands  of  God  for  establishing  His  Kingdom,  as  an 
influence  enlightening,  uplifting,  urging  on  to  the  best 
things  in  this  world  and  pointing  with  loving  hand  to 
the  next,  the  Roman  Church  has  been  a failure  in 
Mexico. 


Ill 


PROTESTANTISM  IN  MEXICO 

THE  constitution  adopted  by  the  Mexican  Repub- 
lic at  its  formation  in  1823  provided  that  the 
Roman  Catholic  faith  should  be  the  religion  of 
the  state,  to  the  exclusion  of  all  others.  It  was  not 
+ until  1867  that  the  new  constitution  and  the  accom- 
panying Reform  Laws  went  into  effect,  giving  Mexico 
religious  liberty. 

Notwithstanding  the  -long  struggle  between  the 
people  and  the  Church  party,  it  must  not  be  supposed 
that  there  was  now  a general  desire  for  the  suppres- 
sion of  the  Roman  Church  and  the  establishment  of 
some  other.  It  is  true  that  the  people  had  come  to 
understand  that  their  religious  leaders  were  opposed 
to  liberty  and  that  there  were  serious  abuses  in  their 
Church  system.  The  aim  of  the  Reform  government 
was  to  remove  these  abuses,  at  least  in  so  far  as  they 
interfered  with  the  progress  of  the  state,  stripping 
from  the  Church  its  political  power,  but  leaving  it  en- 
tire freedom  in  its  proper  sphere  of  operations,  and 
extending  equal  freedom  to  all  other  faiths. 

Yet  even  as  long  ago  as  the  middle  of  the  last  cen- 
tury there  were  Mexicans  who  realized  not  only  the 
need  of  separation  of  church  and  state,  but  the  neces- 
sity of  a new  religious  element  in  their  civilization. 

212 


PROTESTANTISM  IN  MEXICO 


213 


President  Juarez  himself  was  one  of  these.  He  is 
quoted  on  good  authority  * as  saying  that  “ upon  the 
development  of  Protestantism  largely  depends  the 
future  happiness  of  our  country.” 

Even  before  the  appearance  of  Protestant  missions 
we  hear  of  clubs  being  formed  in  many  places,  one 
prominent  object  in  them  being  the  study  of  religious 
truth.  „ 

The  Mexican  War — 1846-1848 — naturally  called 
the  attention  of  the  United  States  to  Mexico,  and  the 
American  Bible  Society  began  to  circulate  the  Scrip- 
tures along  the  border  and  across  the  Mexican  line. 

As  early  as  1854  Miss  Melinda  Rankin  became  in- 
terested in  Christian  work  among  the  Mexicans  at 
Brownsville,  Texas.  She  later  crossed  into  Mexico, 
and  in  1866  established  a school  at  the  important  city 
of  Monterey,  giving  also  much  attention  to  the  distri- 
bution of  Bibles,  which  were  eagerly  received  by  the 
people. 

In  1869  Mr.  H.  C.  Riley,  a missionary  from  South 
America,  being  influenced  by  Miss  Rankin,  opened 
work  in  Mexico  City.  His  mission  was  prospered, 
drawing  to  it  several  priests  who  had  renounced  Ro- 
man dogmas,  and  many  others  who  welcomed  the 
Protestant  movement.  The  Juarez  government  showed 
its  approval  of  the  mission  by  aiding  it  in  the  matter 
of  housing.  This  work,  at  first  independent,  was 
adopted  by  the  Protestant  Episcopal  Church,  and  has 
been  prosecuted  with  marked  success. 

Several  other  foreign  mission  boards  of  the  United 
* “ Mexico  To-day.” 


214  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


States  were  only  awaiting  opportunity  to  enter  this 
field,  hitherto  closed,  and  in  1870  the  Friends  opened 
work.  In  1872  three  great  societies  established  mis- 
sions in  Mexico — the  American  Board  (Congrega- 
tional), the  Presbyterian  Board  (North),  and  the 
Methodist  Episcopal  Board  (South).  These  were 
soon  followed  by  other  societies,  and  at  the  present 
time  not  less  than  sixteen  American  missionary  or- 
ganizations are  cooperating  in  the  movement  to  give 
Mexico  the  blessings  of  a pure  Gospel. 

By  the  year  1913  there  were  331  American  mis- 
sionaries— men  and  women — in  the  republic.  Nearly 
700  mission  stations  and  out-stations  had  been  estab- 
lished. There  were  upwards  of  26,000  living  church 
members,  in  addition  to  an  equal  number  of  adherents 
not  yet  communicants.  A force  of  634  native  work- 
ers was  employed.  There  were  143  mission  day- 
schools,  with  14,826  pupils,  and  36  schools  of  higher 


X 


education,  having  5,526  students. 


Since  1878  the  American  Bible  Society  has  put  into 
circulation  810,560  copies  of  the  Bible.  In  addition, 
several  hundred  thousand  Scripture  portions  from  the 
Los  Angeles  Bible  House  have  been  distributed  in 
Mexico. 

For  more  than  thirty  years  a prodigious  stream  of 
splendid  literature  has  been  flowing  into  the  country 
from  the  rooms  of  the  American  Tract  Society.  But 
still  more  influential  are  the  presses  operated  by  the 
various  missions  in  Mexico.  The  evangelical  periodi- 
cals put  out  from  the  large  centres  are  remarkably 
wide-awake,  clear,  and  fearless  in  their  exposition  of 


PROTESTANTISM  IN  MEXICO 


215 


Roman  error,  and  equally  effective  in  their  setting 
forth  of  a constructive  Christianity.  These  papers 
are  attractive : some  of  them  are  finely  illustrated  and 
all  have  a variety  of  departments  full  of  wholesome 
interest.  They  circulate  not  only  in  Protestant  homes, 
but  in  thousands  of  others  nominally  Roman  Catholic. 

. XicT*  *A. 

The  results  of  evangelical  mission  work  in. Mexico, 
if  judged  by  mere  statistics,  are  not  as  striking  as  those 
obtained  for  an  equal  period  on  some  other  foreign 
fields.  A constant  pressure  of  opposition  from  the 
leaders  of  the  old  religion  was  to  be  expected.  But  a 
greater  obstacle  to  progress  has  been  the  religious 
apathy  everywhere  encountered.  This  widespread  in- 
difference has  resulted  largely  from  disgust  at  the 
many  senseless  forms  connected  with  popular  Mexican 
worship,  and  repugnance  to  dogmas  not  reconcilable 
with  reason.  But  of  still  more  effect  have  been  the 
well-known  immoral  lives  of  many  priests,  and  their 
disposition  to  make  commerce  of  religions  blessings. 
Lacking  true  spiritual  power,  the  Mexican  Roman 
Church  has  been  steadily  losing  its  hold  upon  the 
people  as  they  have  advanced  in  intelligence.  Very 
many,  having  lost  faith  in  their  own  church,  dismiss 
the  entire  subject  of  religion  as  unreal,  and  care  not 
to  investigate  other  forms — of  which  they  have  heard 
evil  reports. 

But  Protestant  missions  in  Mexico  have  accom- 
plished vastly  more  than  the  statistics  tell.  While  mul- 
titudes have  not  yet  seriously  investigated  Protestant- 
ism, this  heretofore  unknown  type  of  Christianity  has 
now  had  a period  of  trial  in  Mexico,  and  there  has 


216  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


resulted  a notable  change  of  opinion  regarding  it. 
Thirty  years  ago  it  was  commonly  believed  that  el 
protestantismo  was  a damnable  heresy,  more  to  be 
avoided  than  cholera,  death,  or  the  devil;  that  its 
object  in  the  world  was  to  destroy  the  “ True  Church  ” 
and  lead  souls  to  everlasting  perdition.  It  was  every- 
where believed  that  Protestants  held  in  mockery  the 
sacred  truths  concerning  God,  His  Son,  the  Virgin 
Mary,  and  the  saints;  that  their  Bible  was  a book  of 
deadly  error,  and  that  they  themselves  were,  of  all 
human  beings,  the  most  dangerous,  and  therefore  their 
appearance  in  a community  was  an  unspeakable 
calamity. 

But  it  was  this  very  appearance  of  Protestants,  the 
teaching  of  their  doctrines,  and  the  living  of  their  lives 
among  the  people  that  is  transforming  popular  judg- 
ment concerning  them.  I/do  not  refer  merely  to  for- 
eign missionaries,  but  particularly  to  the  fruit  of  their 
teachings  in  the  lives  of  Mexicans  who  have  accepted 
them.  Notwithstanding  intense  prejudices,  it  has  come 
to  be  recognized  very  generally  throughout  Mexico 
that  los  protestantes  are  more  trustworthy  than  other 
people.  They  are  freer  from  vices.  They  tell  the 
truth.  They  are  more  dependable  as  labourers.  They 
are  better  neighbours.  And  as  to  their  religion,  it 
satisfies  them.  They  are  contented  even  in  the  midst 
of  ill  treatment  or  hardships  because  of  it.  They  seem 
happier  than  with  the  old  religion  and  persist  in  urging 
their  friends  to  join  them.  But,  what  is  most  aston- 
ishing of  all,  is  that  without  confession  and  priestly 
absolution  they  die  happily.  They  have  no  fear  of 


PROTESTANTISM  IN  MEXICO 


217 


death,  or  of  purgatory,  or  of  hell.  There  is  a power 
and  a comfort  in  their  faith  that  others  do  not  know. 
It  is  becoming  well  understood  that  Protestantism  has 
been  very  seriously  misrepresented  by  Catholic  lead- 
ers; that  it  is  not  a protest  against  the  doctrine  of  the 
Trinity;  it  is  not  abusive  of  the  Virgin  Mary.  “ The 
things  we  have  heard  about  them  are  not  so.”  “ These 
people  are  reverent ; they  are  more  truly  religious  than 
we.”  “ Their  Bible  contains  the  same  stories  of  Jesus 
and  Mary  as  ours.”  “ They  repeat  the  same  Apos- 
tles’ Creed.”  “ Their  hymnal  is  full  of  beautiful 
praises  and  prayers.”  “ They  do  not  try  to  destroy 
our  faith  in  God  and  the  Church,  but  only  protest 
against  what  they  call  errors  and  abuses  in  our 
religion.” 

It  is  clear  that  this  change  of  opinion,  still  going  on, 
is  preparing  the  way  for  a coming  great  forward 
movement  of  evangelical  Christianity  in  Mexico.  But 
our  missions  have  also  shown  to  the  Mexican  people 
the  attitude  of  true  Christianity  toward  education. 
Our  schools  have  been  everywhere  welcomed.  They 
are  popular,  enrolling  not  only  pupils  from  Protestant 
families,  but  also  thousands  of  children  and  young 
people  from  Catholic  homes ; and  this  notwithstanding 
the  decided  evangelical  character  of  the  schools.  To 
the  Mexicans  it  was  entirely  new — religious  leaders 
concerning  themselves  in  something  more  than  the 
mere  propagandism  of  church  doctrine  and  schemes 
for  money  ingathering.  “ These  Protestants  are  in- 
terested not  only  in  religious  teaching,  but  in  secular 
education.  They  work  for  the  general  enlightenment 


218  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


of  the  people.”  This  was  a striking  contrast  to  the 
unprogressive  policy  of  their  own  church.  So  greatly 
appreciated  is  the  superior  work  done  in  these  mission 
schools  that  graduates,  regardless  of  their  known 
Protestantism,  are  urged  to  accept  positions  as  teach- 
ers in  the  public  schools,  and  hundreds  of  such  teachers 
are  now  employed.  It  is  needless  to  say  that  these 
teachers  have  directly  and  indirectly  a wholesome 
mfluence  over  the  rising  generation. 


Protestants  in  Mexico,  through  their  periodicals, 
their  pulpits,  and  their  no  uncertain  attitude  on  public 
questions,  have  shown  themselves  strongly  on  the  side 
of  progress.  No  Mexicans  are  more  ardent  supporters 
of  the  great  Reform  Laws  than  the  members  of  our 
evangelical  congregations.  None  are  more  intensely 
patriotic,  none  more  desirous  that  their  land  shall  be- 
come a real  republic — something  more  than  in  name. 
In  this  respect  they  contrast  favourably  with  the 
Church  party  element.  Especially  during  these  years 
of  revolution  is  the  progressive  tendency  of  Protestant- 
ism being  brought  to  public  notice.  In  the  present 
movement  to  establish  a real  constitutional  government 
and  initiate  greatly  needed  reforms,  the  interested 
political  chiefs  understand  well  who  are  friendly  and 
who  are  opposed. 

Incidentally,  the  missionaries  in  Mexico  have  con- 
tributed materially  in  awakening  and  maintaining  a 
feeling  of  friendliness  toward  Americans.  Notwith- 
standing all  that  is  heard  to  the  contrary,  our  people 
and  our  institutions  have  hosts  of  admirers  in  that 
country. 


PROTESTANTISM  IN  MEXICO 


219 


In  the  summer  of  1913  I revisited  the  district  of 
Guerrero,  Chihuahua,  where  I had  previously  been 
located.  The  little  mountain  city,  peaceful  and  pros- 
perous when  I had  last  seen  it,  now  showed  in  every 
quarter  the  cruel  marks  of  revolution;  few  cities  in 
all  Mexico  have  suffered  more.  There  was  an  air  of 
abandonment  and  sadness  about  it  which  made  my 
heart  sick.  The  streets  and  plazas,  usually  filled  with 
people,  were  lifeless.  Rarely  was  a man  to  be  seen. 
Where  were  they?  Those  still  living  were  serving 
with  armed  troops  or  were  hiding  in  the  near-by  moun- 
tains— for  the  larger  part  of  the  families  remaining 
in  town  were  of  the  opposite  political  faction  to  that 
then  in  control.  Our  Protestant  families  had  suffered 
grievously.  Of  several,  the  father  and  the  older  sons 
were  missing  and  would  never  return.  There  was  no 
attempt  to  have  a preaching  service,  only  a meeting 
for  prayer.  Ordinarily  the  chapel  would  have  been 
filled : now  there  was  only  a small  assemblage  of 
vromen  and  children.  The  leader  spoke  of  the  Gospel 
as  the  only  remedy  for  the  evils  afflicting  Mexico.  The 
thought  was  received  with  hearty  assent.  A very  in- 
telligent woman,  formerly  a teacher,  arose  and  in  a 
few  clear  sentences  called  attention  to  the  character  of 
the  religion  which  the  Spanish  conquerors  had  given 
Mexico,  and  affirmed  that  the  present  unhappy  condi- 
tion of  their  country  was  due  to  the  fact  that  their 
fathers  had  never  known  the  Gospel.  Then,  with  ani- 
mation she  exclaimed  : “ Do  you  know  why  the  United 
States  is  the  greatest  nation  in  the  world  ? ” Evidently 
she  expected  to  answer  her  own  question,  but  as  she 


220  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


was  about  to  continue  a remarkably  bright  and  pretty 
girl  of  sixteen  sprang  to  her  feet,  and  in  her  beautiful 
Spanish  told  briefly  the  story  of  the  Pilgrim  Fathers 
and  explained  to  her  interested  audience  that  the  won- 
derful greatness  of  the  American  people  resulted  from 
the  religion  of  the  Bible  which  that  country  had  en- 
joyed from  its  beginning.  The  girl  was  a student  in 
the  Chihuahuen.se , the  mission  normal  school  of  Chi- 
huahua City,  whence  she  had  recently  come  to  pass  the 
vacation  with  her  family  in  Guerrero.  She  believed, 
as  a great  and  growing  number  of  her  fellow-Mexi- 
cans  do,  that  their  country’s  one  supreme  need  is  a 
Bible  Christianity. 

They  are  exceedingly  grateful  to  those  who  have 
brought  them  the  Gospel  and  are  patiently  helping 
them  to  lay  the  foundations  of  their  new  Christian 
civilization.  On  no  other  line  will  a permanent  settle- 
ment of  Mexico’s  difficulties  be  worked  out,  and  Mexi- 
cans themselves  must  now  bear  more  and  more  the 
responsibility  of  their  own  transformation. 

A most  hopeful  feature  of  the  present  situation  is 
the  little  army  of  graduates  from  Protestant  schools, 
who  are  everywhere  filling  positions  of  influence — 
teachers,  preachers,  editors,  government  officers,  lead- 
ers in  business  and  in  professional  life.  These  men 
and  women  are  talented.  They  are  respected  by  those 
not  of  their  own  faith.  Many  young  men  serving 
effectively  as  pastors  of  Mexican  evangelical  churches 
are  in  these  present  days  being  urged  to  accept  im- 
portant public  offices  at  two  or  three  times  the  salary 
they  are  now  receiving.  Such  offers  as  these  are  al- 


PROTESTANTISM  IN  MEXICO 


221 


most  invariably  refused.  The  schools  which  are  every 
year  turning  out  hundreds  of  such  Christian  patriots 
were  never  so  crowded  with  applicants  for  admission 
as  during  these  dark  days  of  revolution.  Likewise, 
whenever  possible,  Protestant  places  of  worship,  in- 
stead of  suffering  diminished  attendance  because  of 
the  seriously  disturbed  conditions,  were  never  so  well 
filled  as  now.  The  increase  in  interest  is  extraordi- 
nary. Explain  it  as  we  may,  there  can  be  no  doubt" 
that  the  Protestant  movement  in  Mexico  is  at  the  be- 
ginning of  a new  and  notable  development. 


IV 


THE  MEXICAN  PEOPLE  AS  I KNOW  THEM 

A FTER  a varied  life  of  more  than  thirty  years 
among  the  people,  I ought  to  know  them.  For 
reasons  immaterial  to  this  narrative  it  has  been 
my  part  to  labour  in  different  sections  of  the  country — 
in  Chihuahua,  in  Sonora,  and  for  a time  among  the 
Mexicans  on  the  American  side  of  the  line.  Then, 
again,  along  the  west  coast  in  Sinaloa,  and  for  a 
brief  period  in  Jalisco. 

I have  mingled  with  the  people  in  the  large  cities 
and  in  the  country;  among  the  farmers  and  the  miners. 
I have  ridden  with  the  Mexican  cowboys,  and  have 
taken  long  tours  in  the  saddle,  crossing  and  recrossing 
the  western  Sierras  and  the  lowlands  bordering  on  the 
California  Gulf,  thus  encountering  and  becoming  fa- 
miliar with  interesting  Indian  tribes  which  help  to 
make  up  Mexico’s  millions. 

The  Tarahumares  of  western  Chihuahua  are  a 
peaceable,  even  timid,  people.  They  still  live  in  almost 
primitive  simplicity,  speaking  their  own  language,  and 
avoiding  contact  with  Mexicans.  Small  groups  of 
them  are,  however,  occasionally  seen  in  the  streets  of 
Parral  and  Chihuahua.  Always  with  naked  legs  and 
with  bows  and  arrows,  they  are  picturesque.  They 
inhabit  the  deep  mountain  canons,  where  they  till  their 

222 


MEXICAN  PEOPLE  AS  I KNOW  THEM  223 


small  patches  of  corn  and  beans  and  tend  their  goats, 
or  an  occasional  cow.  In  years  long  past  Catholic 
missions  were  maintained  among  them,  but  these  are 
now  mostly  abandoned. 

The  Yaquis  are  a superior  race.  Thousands  of 
them  are  fairly  well  civilized  and  are  found  living 
with  the  Mexicans  in  the  Sonora  cities.  The  larger 
part  of  them,  however,  are  broncos,  occupying  their 
own  districts,  from  which  they  frequently  make  hos- 
tile raids  upon  their  white  neighbours.  They  are  a high- 
spirited  people  and  do  not  take  kindly  to  the  unjust 
treatment  they  have  received  from  the  Mexicans. 

The  total  population  of  Mexico  is  not  far  from  fif- 
teen millions.  Of  these,  more  than  one-third  are  pure- 
blooded  Indians,  living  principally  in  the  southern  half 
of  the  republic.  About  one-half  are  of  mixed  blood — 
Indian  and  Spanish.  The  remainder  are  of  pure  Euro- 
pean blood — mostly  descendants  of  the  Spaniards. 
The  upper  class  of  Mexicans  is  composed  largely, 
although  not  exclusively,  of  these. 

This  class  is  distinguished  by  a marked  degree  of 
refinement  and  often  by  no  little  wealth.  Nowhere  in 
the  world  may  be  seen  men  of  more  splendid  physique 
and  handsome  appearance.  They  have  a certain  dig- 
nity and  pride  of  bearing  which,  if  it  does  not  always 
attract,  at  least  inspires  respect.  These  men,  success- 
fully managing  large  business  affairs,  capitalists,  pro- 
fessional men,  or  in  public  office,  all  impress  one  as 
possessing  mental  ability  of  high  order. 

Mexico  has  most  excellent  bankers,  merchants,  doc- 
tors, and  lawyers.  Everywhere  are  met  able  editors 


224  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


and  eloquent  speakers,  while  brilliant  literary  men  are 
not  wanting.  Many  of  these  have  travelled  in  Europe 
and  in  the  United  States.  Not  a few  of  them  were 
educated,  in  part,  abroad.  They  often  address  you  in 
excellent  English,  and  surprise  one  ignorant  of  Mexico 
by  their  unmistakable  culture,  breadth  of  information, 
and  sane  judgment. 

The  Mexican  women  of  this  class  are  in  every  way 
worthy  of  their  men,  although  they  have  not  enjoyed 
equal  educational  advantages.  The  young  women,  as 
a rule,  are  fine-appearing,  coy  in  manners,  and  of 
agreeable  disposition.  As  wives  they  are  home-lovers, 
submissive  to  their  husbands,  and  as  mothers  are  fond 
of  their  children.  While  the  men  of  this  class  com- 
monly show  little  interest  in  matters  of  church,  the 
women  are  faithful  attendants  at  mass  and  zeal- 
ously care  for  the  religious  training  of  their 
children. 

As  may  be  supposed,  the  wealth  of  the  country,  the 
land,  the  paying  mines,  the  large  business  affairs,  are 
in  the  hands  of  this  higher  class  or  in  the  hands  of  the 
very  shrewd.  A business  transaction  in  Mexico,  from 
the  purchase  of  a fan  to  that  of  a farm,  is  usually  a 
tussle  of  wits,  each  party  contending  craftily  for  the 
advantage.  Strict  fairness  may  be  the  outcome  when 
two  persons  of  equal  shrewdness  confront  each  other. 
But  fairness,  or  justice,  is  rarely  the  end  in  view; 
rather,  the  best  end  of  the  bargain.  To  such  a degree 
is  this  trait  (not  exclusively  Mexican)  carried,  that  to 
outwit  the  opposite  party  in  a deal  and  “ put  him  in  a 
hole  ” is  not  considered  dishonourable.  The  matter  is 


Pima  Indians  of  Sonora 


MEXICAN  PEOPLE  AS  I KNOW  THEM  225 


a test  of  acumen,  of  astuteness,  and  the  winner  de- 
serves the  honour.  Nevertheless,  justice  is  a univer- 
sally admired  trait — in  others.  This  disposition  to 
overreach  is  not  so  lamentable  when  the  two  parties 
are  of  the  same  class,  and  each  is  able  to  accept  with 
good  grace  the  discomfiture  he  would  like  to  have  in- 
flicted on  the  other.  But  it  is  in  the  dealings  of  the 
powerful  with  the  weak  that  one  finds  shocking  injus- 
tice in  Mexico.  The  ignorant  and  the  inexperienced  are 
unmercifully  imposed  upon.  The  already  extensive 
landholder,  with  large  rents  and  ambitious  to  widen 
his  estates,  is  always  finding  among  his  smaller  neigh- 
bours men  who  are  in  financial  straits.  To  such  money 
is  loaned  and  mortgages  are  taken  on  the  smaller 
properties.  So  it  occurs  that  the  capitalist  is  fre- 
quently taking  over,  here  a desirable  ranch,  there  a 
fertile  hacienda  at  a fraction  of  its  real  value.  If  this 
man,  in  addition  to  his  wealth,  holds  a high  political 
office,  or  is  on  good  terms  with  the  governor,  or  has 
powerful  influence  with  the  judges  before  whom  his 
suits  are  carried,  so  much  the  more  sure  and  rapid  are 
his  accumulations.  In  Chihuahua  there  is  a man  (just 
now  this  side  the  line)  who  owns  some  twenty  millions 
of  acres  of  the  choicest  land  in  the  state. 

The  peonage  system  is  still  extensively  practised. 
A land  proprietor  may  have  in  his  employ  five  men,  or 
five  hundred.  A wage  of  twenty-five  to  fifty  cents  a 
day,  Mexican  silver,  will  support  a family  living  as 
the  very  poor  are  accustomed.  This  is  commonly  paid 
in  provisions  or  merchandise  of  some  kind,  the  price 
of  which  is  often  unfairly  in  favour  of  the  proprietor, 


226  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


who  keeps  his  own  store.  It  always  occurs  that  the 
labourer  is  in  need  of  more  than  is  due  him,  so  that  he 
overdraws  and  the  account  may  show  him  fifty  or  one 
hundred  dollars  in  debt.  The  law  does  not  permit  him 
to  leave  the  service  of  his  master  until  this  is  paid.  If 
by  any  possibility  he  can  borrow  money  elsewhere  he 
may  settle  the  account,  but  having  no  property  of  his 
own  to  secure  the  loan  his  services  are  now  due  to  his 
new  master. 

It  is  a common  custom  for  a youth  of  eighteen, 
wishing  to  marry,  to  borrow  fifty  or  one  hundred  dol- 
lars for  this  purpose,  agreeing  to  give  his  labour  at  a 
fixed  low  rate  until  all  is  paid.  Current  needs  permit 
of  small,  if  any,  payments  on  the  original  debt,  and  old 
age  finds  him  still  on  the  same  plantation,  serving  an 
heir  of  his  former  master.  While  it  is  common  for  the 
proprietors  to  take  unfair  advantage  of  their  ignorant 
labourers,  enriching  themselves  from  their  toil,  and 
allowing  them  little  opportunity  to  rise,  it  is  only  right 
to  say  there  are  many  most  honourable  exceptions  to 
the  rule — exceptions  in  which  the  relations  between 
employer  and  employed  are  kindly  and  just. 

Not  all  the  blame  of  the  peonage  system  can  be  laid 
upon  the  master.  At  the  beginning  the  youth  may 
voluntarily  contract  his  labour,  and  the  fact  that  he 
never  rises  out  of  servitude  is  often  due  to  his  own 
indolence  and  lack  of  ambition.  I have  known  many 
a man  to  live  on,  year  after  year,  in  good-natured  con- 
tentedness with  his  penniless  condition,  who  with  a fair 
measure  of  energy  and  thrift  might  have  become  a 
small  property  owner  and  managed  his  own  affairs. 


MEXICAN  PEOPLE  AS  I KNOW  THEM  227 


Examples  of  this  are  becoming  more  frequent  than  in 
the  past. 

The  word  “ peon,”  as  now  commonly  used,  includes 
the  very  numerous  class  of  unskilled  labourers,  who, 
while  not  property  owners,  are  masters  of  their 
own  time,  working  when  and  where  they  may 
choose. 

With  the  improvement  and  extension  of  Mexico’s 
educational  system  and  more  general  information  as 
to  better  conditions  in  other  lands,  this  seeming  con- 
tentment will  some  day  give  place  to  a restlessness  and 
awakening  which  will  result  in  the  breaking  up  of  the 
old  order  and  the  gradual  formation  of  a new  and 
better. 

My  work  has  brought  me  constantly  into  contact 
with  a class  between  the  very  rich  and  the  very  poor. 
There  are  many  who  own  their  humble  homes,  a small 
strip  of  land,  one  or  more  work  animals,  a few  head 
of  cattle,  sheep,  or  goats.  These  small  farmers,  with 
their  limited  crops  of  corn  and  beans,  and  sometimes 
wheat,  with  a few  pigs  and  chickens,  their  own  fire- 
wood, milk,  and  homemade  cheese,  live  in  compara- 
tive independence  and  comfort.  One  must  not  think 
of  the  Mexican  tillers  of  the  soil  as  living  like  our 
American  farmers — scattered  throughout  the  town- 
ship, each  actually  residing  on  his  farm.  One  occa- 
sionally encounters  lone  ranches  in  Mexico,  but  the 
communal  life  prevails.  All  the  small  landholders  of 
a certain  district  build  their  houses  side  by  side  along 
the  stream  in  a central  locality,  and  from  the  village 
thus  formed  go  back  and  forth  to  operate  their  lands. 


228  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


Pasture  and  woodland  are  held  in  common.  Few 
fences  are  seen.  These  villages  vary  in  size  from  half 
a dozen  families  to  a municipality  of  several  thousand 
souls. 

Besides  these  small  ranchers,  the  Mexican  middle 
class  includes  multitudes  of  small  merchants,  office- 
holders, artisans,  miners,  and  professional  men.  Our 
Protestant  congregations  are  largely  composed  of  such 
as  these,  together  with  unskilled  labourers  and  their 
families. 

For  a people  who  have  had  comparatively  few  op- 
portunities, the  Mexicans  are  a remarkably  interesting 
race.  More  than  a passing  and  unsympathetic  ac- 
quaintance is  needed  to  form  a just  judgment  of  them. 
A striking  characteristic  is  courtesy.  Not  only  among 
the  higher  class,  but  everywhere  this  is  seen.  Even 
peons  lift  the  hat  in  salutation,  take  the  street  side  of 
the  sidewalk  in  passing,  and  say  " con  su  permiso  ” — 
with  your  permission — if  obliged  to  pass  in  front  of 
another.  Should  a comparison  be  drawn  between  the 
manners  of  the  ordinary  American  in  Mexico  and  the 
every-day  Mexican,  the  result  would  easily  be  in  favour 
of  the  latter.  The  Mexicans  are  accustomed  to  wonder 
at  the  bluntness  of  Americans  and  their  seeming  lack  of 
good  breeding.  Our  doctor,  Gonzales,  in  Parral,  was 
finely  educated,  skilled  in  his  profession,  and  a perfect 
gentleman.  On  one  occasion  after  he  had  met  some 
Americans — who  were  no  credit  to  their  country — my 
wife,  surmising  what  his  opinion  of  them  might  be, 
remarked  to  him  that  he  should  not  judge  the  Ameri- 
can people  by  such  representatives.  “ Oh,  no,”  he  re- 


MEXICAN  PEOPLE  AS  I KNOW  THEM  229 


plied,  “ I have  no  doubt  that  the  better  class  of  Ameri- 
cans may  be  as  refined  as  our  Mexican  people.” 

In  their  homes  and  in  the  schools  the  Mexican  chil- 
dren are  carefully  trained  in  the  forms  of  urbanity. 
But  Mexican  politeness  is  not  merely  form.  The 
people  are  notably  kind-hearted,  rich  and  poor,  every- 
where we  find  them  so.  In  cases  of  sickness,  bereave- 
ment, or  misfortune,  sympathy  is  generous  and  sin- 
cere, and  shown  not  only  in  words  but  by  kind  deeds. 
If  death  is  evidently  near,  friends  come  from  a dis- 
tance and  the  entire  neighbourhood  gathers  at  the 
house  to  watch  the  sad  departure.  If  there  are  orphans 
to  be  cared  for,  there  is  never  lack  of  homes  offered, 
and  often  there  is  friendly  strife  as  to  who  shall  have 
the  privilege  of  adopting  the  homeless  ones.  I have 
in  mind  a Mexican  family,  once  members  of  our  con- 
gregation in  Parral,  who  later  moved  to  El  Paso. 
Fourteen  children  were  born,  one-half  dying  early. 
To  fill  the  vacant  places  these  parents  sought  each 
time  some  homeless  infant  to  adopt.  Calling  on  this 
family  not  long  ago,  I found  among  the  adopted  chil- 
dren two  little  Americans,  who  were  the  favourites  of 
the  household,  petted  alike  by  foster  parents,  brothers, 
and  sisters.  There  may  be  orphan  asylums  in  Mexico, 
but  I never  heard  of  one,  nor  can  I see  how  such  an 
institution  would  be  needed  in  that  country.  No 
family  is  so  distressed  with  poverty  as  to  be  unwilling 
to  receive  into  the  home  some  still  more  destitute  rela- 
tive, or  even  stranger,  and  share  with  him  their  meagre 
living.  Especially  are  the  aged  cared  for  with  kind- 
ness. 


230  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


Hospitality  is  a striking  Mexican  characteristic.  It 
is  not  customary  for  a traveller  to  seek  a hotel  when 
he  has  acquaintances  in  the  place,  nor  would  this  be 
expected.  The  wayfarer,  arriving  belated  at  an  un- 
known hacienda,  has  only  to  announce  his  presence  to 
make  sure  of  an  ungrudging  reception,  with  generous 
accommodation  for  himself,  companions,  if  any,  and 
animals.  One  of  many  similar  experiences  of  my  own 
may  be  related  as  illustrative  of  this  national  trait.  In 
company  with  three  other  Americans — one  a lady — I 
was  once  travelling  in  a region  to  which  we  all  were 
strangers,  except  one  young  man  of  the  party.  We  ar- 
rived weary  one  evening  at  a small  village  where  there 
was  no  hotel.  Among  the  several  well-to-do  planters 
of  the  place  was  one  whom  the  young  man  had  for- 
merly known.  For  him  to  have  passed  by  without  a 
call  would  have  been  considered  discourteous.  That, 
calling,  he  should  be  made  a guest  was  natural;  but 
that  his  stranger  friends  should  be  received  and  enter- 
tained with  cordiality  only  proved  our  host  a typical 
Mexican  of  his  class.  Had  we  been  old-time  friends 
of  the  family,  I hardly  know  how  our  welcome  could 
have  been  made  heartier,  or  how  more  solicitous 
attention  could  have  been  given  for  our  comfort.  The 
great  dining-room  table  was  loaded  that  evening  with 
the  best  the  house  could  provide.  It  seemed  like  a 
banquet  for  especially  invited  guests,  in  which  all  the 
members  of  this  beautiful  family  sought  to  make  the 
occasion  a pleasant  one.  Profuse  regrets  were  ex- 
pressed that  our  departure  must  be  at  dawn  the  next 
morning,  and  this  was  not  allowed  without  refresh- 


MEXICAN  PEOPLE  AS  I KNOW  THEM  231 


ment  of  hot  coffee  and  rolls,  urging  upon  us  an  appe- 
tizing lunch  for  the  road,  and  commending  us  kindly 
to  God’s  care. 

Reverence  is  another  characteristic  of  the  Mexican 
people.  In  telling  of  one’s  plans  or  hopes  it  is  com- 
mon to  add,  “si  Dios  es  servido  ”■ — if  God  is  willing. 
Perhaps  no  phrase  in  all  the  language  is  more  often 
heard  than  “ gracias  a Dios  ” — thanks  be  to  God. 
This  comes  properly  after  good  information  of  any 
kind,  but  there  are  some  simple-hearted  persons  who 
have  the  expression  so  constantly  on  the  tongue  that  it 
occasionally  slips  off  with  strange  effect,  as  when  an 
aged  brother  was  telling  me  of  his  life  companion, 
whom  I had  not  known,  he  finished  the  story  with 
“ but  at  last  my  good  wife  died,  gracias  a Dios!  ” 

The  common  people  on  passing  a church  are  accus- 
tomed to  uncover  the  head.  Also,  when  the  church 
bell  signals  the  noon  hour,  or  the  sunset — as  is  every- 
where the  custom — at  least  the  men  in  working  garb 
remove  the  hat.  These  bells  are  calls  to  prayer,  the 
idea  being  that  every  person  within  hearing,  wherever 
he  may  be,  should  then  pause  and  repeat  the  Mag- 
nificat, or,  if  unable  to  do  this,  at  least  an  Ave  Maria 
or  the  Paternoster.  Many  who  do  nothing  of  the 
kind,  by  uncovering  the  head,  recognize  the  call. 

Matutinal  singing  is  a beautiful  custom,  though,  un- 
fortunately, rarely  met  with  in  American  homes.  At 
the  hour  for  arising,  the  father,  sitting  in  bed,  com- 
mences the  chant,  which  is  taken  up  presently  by  one, 
then  another,  until  all  members  of  the  household  are 
sitting  and  singing  together.  The  soft  and  beautiful 


232  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


music  is  most  appropriate  to  the  words  of  the  morning 
prayer.  Imagine  that  you  are  ignorant  of  this  prac- 
tice. It  is  your  first  night  as  a guest  of  a numerous 
Mexican  family  at  their  summer  camp  in  a shady 
canon.  It  is  the  cheese-making  season  that  has  brought 
them  to  this  arboreal  home,  where  water  and  fresh 
pastures  are  abundant. 

The  milking  commences  with  the  first  rosy  streak  of 
dawn,  when  not  only  the  men  and  boys,  but  the  women- 
folk as  well,  must  begin  the  duties  of  the  day.  The 
guest  had  been  previously  directed  not  to  notice  any 
early  signs  of  activity.  But  while  still  sleeping  he  is 
dimly  conscious  that  the  birds  have  commenced  twit- 
tering in  the  branches  all  about  and  above.  Then,  as 
the  birds  break  forth  with  less  reserve,  he  hears  human 
voices  joining  them  in  reverent  adoration.  At  first, 
one  voice,  then  others,  until — scarcely  knowing  whether 
it  is  a dream  or  not — he  hears  a full  chorus.  Now  the 
anthem  seems  to  be  finished.  But  no : after  the  pause 
follows  another  stanza,  then  another,  and  another. 
The  early  devotion  is  not  hurried.  Pleasant  slumber 
is  briefly  renewed,  and  at  the  breakfast  table  informa- 
tion is  asked  and  one  repeats  for  you  the  words  of 
the  matin  hymn: 

" En  este  nuevo  dia 
Gracias  te  tributamos, 

Oh,  Dios  Omnipotente 
Y Sehor  de  lo  creado” 

It  is  not  easy  to  reproduce  in  English  the  rhythm 
and  beauty  of  the  Spanish  lines,  whose  origin  I have 
not  been  able  to  ascertain : 


MEXICAN  PEOPLE  AS  I KNOW  THEM  233 


On  this  new  day,  oh,  God  Omnipotent, 

Lord  of  the  creation,  we  render  thanks  to  Thee. 

Thy  clemency  divine  has  deigned  to  bring  us 
From  the  fearsome  night  to  the  clear  light  of  day. 

Joyful  in  the  branches  let  the  birds  adore  Thee. 

In  the  waters  let  the  fish  sing  thy  holy  name. 

Oh,  God,  immensely  great,  direct  and  guide  our  steps. 
So  that  we  eternally  may  keep  thy  holy  law.  Amen. 

The  similar  evening  devotion  observed  in  some 
places  is  equally  impressive. 

In  spite  of  the  few  privileges  and  comforts  enjoyed 
by  the  vast  majority  of  the  people,  cheerfulness  is  a 
racial  trait.  Cases  of  grumbling  and  surliness  are  ex- 
ceptional. No  disappointments,  afflictions,  or  reverses 
of  fortune,  however  serious,  are  sufficient  to  repress, 
except  briefly,  the  natural  flow  of  good  spirits.  A 
good  brother,  don  Amado,  who  has  already  lost  one 
wife  and  twenty-two  children,  has  invariably  a smiling 
face. 

The  Mexicans  are  charged  with  being  treacherous, 
given  to  vices,  improvident,  and  indolent.  It  would 
be  strange  if  faults  like  these  were  not  found  among 
them.  The  constant  wonder  is  their  very  many  ad- 
mirable traits.  My  years  of  experience  have  impressed 
me  more  with  their  constancy  and  faithfulness  than 
with  the  opposite  characteristics. 

Intoxicating  drinks  and  cigarettes  are  unspeakable 
curses  in  Mexico,  being  responsible — as  elsewhere — 
for  the  major  part  of  all  crime,  poverty,  and  ineffi- 


234  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


ciency  among  the  people.  Outside  of  Protestant 
circles  such  a thing  as  a total  abstinence  movement  is 
unheard  of ; while  local-option  laws,  state  or  national 
prohibition,  hardly  yet  exist,  even  in  idea.  In  some 
localities,  however,  the  entrance  to  saloons  is  forbid- 
den to  minors,  and  in  some  public  schools  textbooks 
and  wall  charts  are  found  teaching  the  evils  of  the 
higher  per  cent  alcoholic  drinks  and  encouraging  mod- 
eration in  the  use  of  lighter  beverages. 

Unquestionably  much  of  the  proverbial  laziness  and 
manana  disposition  of  Mexican  people  is  due  to  the 
very  general  use  of  intoxicants  and  narcotics.  Some 
of  it  may  be  laid  to  climate,  which  does  not  permit  the 
strenuous  activity  of  the  higher  latitudes.  Not  without 
effect  has  been  the  peonage  system,  wherein  the  la- 
bourer, hopelessly  bound  to  tasks  in  which  he  has  little 
interest  and  reward,  seeks  to  save  himself  by  methods 
of  much  delay  and  little  exertion.  Lack  of  opportu- 
nity and  of  ideals  whereby  the  ordinary  individual  may 
accumulate  property  and  make  something  of  himself, 
is  also  largely  responsible  for  the  trait  in  question. 
When  the  millions  of  peons  have  little  farms  of  their 
own  or  become  property  owners — members  of  a great 
middle  class — Mexico  will  have  awakened  in  a manner 
to  astonish  the  world.  Stable  employment,  fair 
wages,  and  just  treatment  under  the  numerous  new  in- 
dustrial enterprises  established  in  Mexico  by  Americans 
and  others  will  develop  a large  army  of  excellent 
labourers  with  habits  of  promptness  and  system. 

The  Mexican  is  impressed  by  the  American’s  capac- 
ity for  work  and  love  for  it,  and  his  example  of  in- 


MEXICAN  PEOPLE  AS  I KNOW  THEM  235 


dustry  is  not  without  its  effect,  but  the  over-strenuous- 
ness  so  often  exhibited  by  Americans  does  not  appeal 
to  him.  Particularly  is  this  true  of  the  upper  class,  to 
whom  haste  or  excessive  activity  appears  a fault,  a 
mark  of  ill-breeding,  a trait  destructive  of  happiness 
and  health. 

The  attitude  of  many  Mexicans  toward  the  intense 
mode  of  life  peculiar  to  Americans  is  illustrated  by 
the  Parral  watch  repairer  who  visited  Chicago.  He 
was  in  need  of  supplies  in  his  line,  and  as  I was  about 
to  make  a trip  North,  don  Nicolas  asked  the  privilege 
of  accompanying  me.  His  company  was  accepted 
with  genuine  pleasure — the  more  so  as  my  friend  had 
never  been  across  the  border  and  little  realized  what 
such  a trip  might  have  in  store  for  him.  It  was  a joy 
to  point  out  new  and  strange  scenes  and  observe  his 
interest  in  them.  The  broad  and  handsome  farms,  the 
splendid  herds  of  cattle,  particularly  the  immense 
mules  of  Missouri  and  the  magnificent  horses  of  Illi- 
nois, the  great  rivers,  the  prosperous  towns,  and,  not 
least  of  all,  the  vast  extent  and  richness  of  the  country 
from  El  Paso  to  the  City  by  the  Lake,  greatly  im- 
pressed and  delighted  him.  Our  train  was  nearly  an 
hour  running  across  and  through  the  Chicago  streets 
before  landing  us  at  the  depot.  He  thought  we  would 
never  arrive.  He  had  seen  no  more  than  a two-  or 
three-story  building,  and  the  skyscrapers  amazed  and 
awed  him.  Calling  his  attention  to  one  particularly 
imposing  structure,  I asked  him  what  he  thought  of 
it.  His  reply — as  he  attempted  to  reach  the  top  with 
his  eye — was,  “ Que  barbaridad!  ” — What  a barbar- 


236  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


ity!  He  did  not  exactly  mean  that  the  enormous  edi- 
fice was  an  outrage  against  humanity  or  good  civiliza- 
tion, but  that  it  produced  an  overwhelmingly  stunning 
effect  upon  him.  He  probably  meant  to  say,  “ Well, 
that’s  the  limit!” 

But  the  incessant  and  thundering  roar  of  traffic  in 
the  downtown  district,  the  jams  at  the  street  cross- 
ings, the  peril  of  being  crushed  in  the  endless  variety 
and  infinite  number  of  vehicles,  public  and  private, 
none  of  which  paid  any  attention  to  him — these 
silenced  and  took  away  his  little  remaining  spirit.  Nor 
was  this  all.  The  people  which  filled  the  sidewalks — 
what  endless  masses  of  them!  It  was  the  summer  of 
the  World’s  Fair,  and  a matter  of  100,000  extra  people 
were  in  the  city.  “ Where  do  all  of  these  beings  come 
from?  ” “ Where  are  they  going?  ” “ Why  are  they 
in  such  haste?”  More  than  once  don  Nicolas  was 
jostled  without  ceremony  into  the  gutter.  No  one 
turned  to  see  where  he  alighted,  much  less  to  say, 
“ Please  excuse  me.”  Every  member  of  the  senseless 
and  interminable  stampede  was  still  rushing  on ! Don 
Nicolas  was  not  favourably  impressed  with  it  all,  but 
in  thought  turned  longingly  to  his  own  beloved  Mex- 
ico, where  people  may  walk  the  streets  with  safety, 
where  they  lift  their  hats  on  meeting,  and  each  offers 
the  other  the  inside  of  the  walk;  where  there  is  quiet, 
calmness,  moderation,  dignity,  and  where  some  things 
may  be  done  manana. 


V 

MEXICANS  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES  * 


SINCE  the  outbreak  of  revolution  in  Mexico  they 
have  been  pouring  across  our  border  by  the  thou- 
sands and  tens  of  thousands.  Fifteen  years  ago 
the  entire  Spanish-speaking  population  of  California 
was  about  50,000,  and  of  these  the  greater  part  were 
native  Californians  of  the  old  stock.  It  is  estimated 
that  there  are  to-day  (January,  1917)  in  southern 
California  alone  not  less  than  150,000  Mexicans, 
mostly  fresh  from  the  fatherland.  Of  these,  75,000 
are  in  Los  Angeles  County,  and  every  day  brings  new 
arrivals. 

The  other  border  states,  Arizona,  New  Mexico,  and 
Texas,  are  receiving  their  full  proportion  of  this  re- 
markable influx.  El  Paso,  a city  of  sixty-odd  thou- 
sand inhabitants,  has  now  more  Mexican  residents 
than  American.  Our  country  may  look  for  a still 
greater  tide  of  Mexican  immigration. 

A small  percentage  of  these  people  are  of  Mexico’s 
wealthy  class.  They  have  suffered  confiscation  of 
property.  They  have  lost  much  through  enforced 

* Eight  of  my  thirty  years  with  the  Mexicans  were  passed 
in  Southern  California,  and  employed  in  itinerant  evangelism. 
Constant  touring  through  six  counties,  together  with  no  little 
experience  in  the  large  cities,  brought  me  into  close  personal 
contact  with  the  Spanish-speaking  people  of  all  classes. 

237 


238  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


levies  for  revolutionary  expenses  and  by  brigandage, 
and,  finding  themselves  in  danger  of  losing  all,  they 
hastily  fled  the  country,  bringing  with  them  all  mov- 
able funds.  These  families — of  high  intelligence  and 
refinement — are  living  unobtrusively  in  the  large  cities 
near  the  line,  watching  with  deep  concern  the  receding 
and  oncoming  waves  of  disturbance  in  their  land,  hop- 
ing against  hope  for  the  final  establishment  of  order 
which  will  permit  of  their  return. 

Not  a few  of  these  new  immigrants  are  of  a very 
respectable  middle  class,  and  bring  means  sufficient  to 
secure  land  or  to  engage  in  business  here  in  a moderate 
way. 

The  great  majority,  however,  are  of  the  labouring, 
or  peon  class.  There  are  multitudes  of  boys  and 
single  men;  but  thousands  also  came  with  their  fami- 
lies, and  a large  proportion  are  bound  to  remain 
permanently.  Texas  and  New  Mexico  have  a much 
larger  native  Spanish-speaking  population,  but  other- 
wise the  situation  in  southern  California  may  be  taken 
as  typical  of  that  in  the  other  border  states. 

Here  there  are  no  exclusively  Mexican  communi- 
ties, and  yet  there  are  no  cities,  or  scarcely  country 
places,  without  their  Mexican  residents.  These  are 
usually  located  in  a quarter  by  themselves,  where  they 
continue  speaking  their  own  language  and  mingle  little 
with  Americans. 

The  pick-and-shovel  labourers,  seen  on  all  lines  of 
railway,  are  Mexicans.  The  gangs  of  workmen 
everywhere  encountered  on  the  city  streets  are  Mex- 
icans. Thousands  of  them  are  employed  in  the  sugar- 


MEXICANS  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES  239 


beet  fields,  and  thousands  in  the  orange,  lemon,  and 
walnut  groves.  In  general  they  give  satisfaction  to 
their  employers.  They  are  strong,  active,  and  un- 
complaining. It  is  a question  what  we  would  now 
do  without  them,  for  as  yet  the  supply  of  labourers 
does  not  exceed  the  demand. 

These  people  come  for  work,  which  of  late  is  not 
to  be  found  in  their  own  country.  They  also  come 
to  escape  the  calamitous  conditions  at  home.  As  a 
class  they  are  ignorant  and  given  to  vices.  Shooting 
and  cutting  affairs  are  not  infrequently  reported  from 
the  Mexican  quarters.  They  are  fond  of  intoxicants, 
and  are  often  found  living  in  untidy  and  insanitary 
conditions.  All  this  being  true,  too  many  Americans 
hastily  form  the  conclusion  that  these  " Cholos  ” are 
little  better  than  cattle.  They  are  classed  as  low- 
grade  Indians,  not  worth  serious  regard.  It  is  com- 
monly believed  that  their  language  is  a crude  jumble 
of  Indian  words  with  a certain  admixture  of  doubtful 
Spanish.  This  is  a great  mistake,  for  while  naturally 
they  do  not  use  the  beautifully  correct  and  elegant 
Spanish  of  the  educated  Mexicans,  the  common  peon 
speaks  a better  Spanish  than  one  will  hear  in  many 
parts  of  Spain.  Not  only  in  pronunciation,  but  gram- 
matically, their  use  of  the  language  is  better  than  the 
use  of  English  by  uneducated  Americans.  A con- 
siderable number  of  these  day-labourers  are  able  to 
read,  and  Mexican  literature  is  identical  with  that 
of  the  purest  Castilian.  They  possess  few  books,  but 
eagerly  read  the  Spanish  newspapers  which  issue 
from  the  Mexican  presses  of  Los  Angeles,  and  from 


240  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


every  important  city  of  our  Southwest.  They  appre- 
ciate gifts  of  other  literature  in  their  language  and 
buy  when  opportunity  offers. 

Many  of  these  Mexicans  are  surprisingly  intelligent 
as  to  conditions  in  their  own  land  and  are  strong  in 
their  sympathies  with  one  revolutionary  faction  or 
another.  Yet  all  are  more  or  less  disgusted  with  the 
long-continued  disorder  there.  One  young  fellow 
said  to  me  the  other  day,  “ The  Mexican  is  not  yet 
born  who  will  be  able  to  unite  our  people  and  estab- 
lish a firm  government.” 

Not  a few  of  these  immigrants  are  ardent  in  their 
admiration  of  our  great  country  and  our  superior  in- 
stitutions, being  especially  appreciative  of  our  public 
schools.  As  a rule,  those  who  come  to  us  have 
sturdier,  more  aspiring  and  promising  qualities  than 
the  majority  of  their  class  who  remain  at  home. 
Americans  who  know  them  best  are  impressed  with 
their  many  excellent  qualities,  and  in  spite  of  their 
faults  consider  them  most  worthy  of  esteem.  It  is  no 
mistake  to  say  that  even  the  lowest  have  in  them — 
undeveloped — all  the  elements  of  noble  manhood  and 
womanhood. 

Coming  into  a foreign  land  and  enjoying  the  pro- 
tection of  our  better  government,  they  naturally 
bring  no  ill  will  toward  Americans,  but  they  soon  find 
that  they  are  looked  down  upon  as  inferiors.  Being 
sensitive,  they  feel  this,  but  say  nothing;  accustom 
themselves  to  receiving  scant  tokens  of  respect  from 
Americans,  and  to  giving  as  little  in  return.  They 
ask  few  favours  of  those  above  them,  cling  all  the 


MEXICANS  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES  241 


closer  to  one  another  and  to  their  own  language  and 
customs. 

Not  infrequently  in  visiting  their  humble  homes, 
I have  encountered  cases  of  lingering  illness  accom- 
panied by  extreme  want.  Mexican  neighbours  were 
assisting  and  sharing  their  scanty  provisions,  while 
Americans  in  the  vicinity  who  doubtless  would  gladly 
have  helped,  neither  asked  nor  received  information. 
There  is  room  for  the  expression  of  a genuinely 
friendly  spirit  toward  these  strangers.  Acquaintance 
with  the  Spanish  language,  while  helpful,  is  not  an 
absolute  requisite  for  those  who  would  show  good 
will. 

A young  lady  missionary  of  a Los  Angeles  church 
once  said  to  me,  “You  know  I cannot  speak  a word 
of  Spanish,  but  in  my  visits  I once  found  myself  in  a 
Mexican  home  where  was  a sick  woman.  I seated 
myself  at  her  bedside,  took  her  hand  in  mine,  and 
smiled.  It  was  all  I could  do,  but  she  seemed  to 
appreciate  my  sympathy  and  so  I remained  a little 
while,  pressing  her  hand  and  smiling.  In  a few  days 
I was  surprised  to  receive  word  from  the  sick  one, 
begging  me  to  come  again.  I went  and  in  the  same 
silent  way  told  her  that  I loved  her.” 

As  far  as  they  can  be  said  to  possess  any  religion, 
these  incoming  Mexicans  are  Roman  Catholic.  But 
whatever  ties  may  have  held  them  to  that  church  at 
home  are  loosened,  if  not  severed,  on  their  arrival 
here  where  services  are  commonly  in  English.  Not 
a few  of  these  people,  however,  miss  their  old  church 
privileges.  One  such,  in  reply  to  my  question  as  to 


242  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


what  he  did  on  Sunday,  said,  “ I went  to  the  church : 
the  preaching  was  in  English,  the  mass  in  Latin;  I 
understood  nothing  and  came  away  fasting.”  He  had 
received  nothing  and  would  not  be  likely  to  go  again. 

A Mexican  woman  who  had  long  ceased  church 
attendance  accepted  an  invitation  to  our  mid-week 
prayer  service  in  Pomona.  She  listened  in  her  own 
language  to  some  happy  testimonies  of  converts,  and 
was  moved  to  tears.  Afterwards  she  said  to  me, 
“ Sir,  we  have  lost  our  religion ! ” In  answer  to  the 
question,  “How  long  since  you  have  been  to  mass?” 
some  say,  “ Twelve  years,”  or  “ Sixteen  years.”  “ I 
believe  in  God ; that  is  enough.” 

What  good,  if  any,  are  these  thousands  of  Mex- 
icans getting  from  their  close  contact  with  our  civiliza- 
tion? In  one  noteworthy  respect  they  are  receiving 
positive  evil.  Their  first  and  often  their  only  acquaint- 
ances in  the  communities  they  enter  are  of  our  lower 
classes — with  which  they  have  most  affinity.  These 
lower-class  “ Americans  ” are  often  Italians,  Portu- 
guese, or  French.  The  similarity  of  language  facili- 
tates acquaintance,  and  the  fact  that  all  are  foreigners 
becomes  a bond  6f  friendship.  Of  whatever  nation- 
ality, these  American  intimates  of  the  Mexicans  are 
not  only  irreligious,  but  often  anti-church  and  even 
anarchistic  in  their  sympathies.  The  “ Little  Plaza  ” 
of  Los  Angeles,  where  hundreds  of  Mexicans  con- 
gregate on  Sundays,  is  often  the  scene  of  fiery  dis- 
courses in  Spanish.  In  these  harangues  by  forceful 
orators  present-day  Christianity  is  ridiculed,  and  in 
place  of  what  the  church  stands  for,  are  presented 


MEXICANS  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES  243 


the  crudest  and  most  objectionable  theories  of  so- 
cialism. 

Pastors  of  Protestant  churches  in  California,  men 
who  have  had  experience  both  in  Mexico  and  this 
country,  are  agreed  in  declaring  Christian  work  more 
difficult  among  this  people  here  than  in  the  homeland. 
And  the  explanation  they  give  is  the  fact  already 
stated — the  peculiar  evil  influences  encountered  here, 
particularly  in  the  cities,  influences  of  an  anti-religious 
nature  rarely  met  with  in  Mexico,  and  which  are  ex- 
tremely injurious  to  the  ignorant,  simple-minded  peon 
class,  already  out  of  sympathy  with  the  church  of  their 
fathers. 

Notwithstanding  these  difficulties,  our  Protestant 
churches  are  making  earnest  efforts  to  share  with  the 
Mexicans  the  best  that  we  have.  A number  of  the 
principal  denominations  maintain  Spanish  missions 
and  several  thousand  converts  have  been  gathered  into 
Mexican  congregations,  of  which  there  are  ten  in  Los 
Angeles  alone. 

In  some  cases  the  converts  are  received  into  an  ex- 
isting American  church,  which  conducts  for  these 
members  separate  services  in  Spanish.  Pilgrim  Con- 
gregational Church,  of  Pomona,  has  in  this  way  re- 
ceived sixty-five  Mexicans  to  its  membership,  and  these 
dusky  Spanish-speaking  people  are  made  to  feel  that 
they  are  brothers. 

One  of  our  little  country  churches  was  bravely 
pressing  on  with  a membership  of  only  nine  Amer- 
icans. Then,  during  one  month  they  received  to  their 
communion  twelve  Mexicans,  seven  on  one  Sunday 


2U  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


and  five  on  another,  and  each  time  the  whole  church 
arose,  came  forward,  and  gave  the  incoming  members 
the  right  hand  of  fellowship. 

There  are  two  well-equipped  boarding-schools  for 
Mexican  girls  in  Los  Angeles,  and  a fine  Industrial 
School  for  Mexican  boys  has  just  been  established  in 
Gardena  by  the  Methodists,  and  they  are  now  planning 
an  Institutional  Spanish  Church  on  the  “ Little  Plaza.” 

Counting  all  the  evangelistic  and  educational  work 
that  is  being  done,  the  startling  truth  remains  that 
less  than  five  per  cent  of  our  Mexican  element  is  as 
yet  reached  by  it.  In  addition  and  supplementary  to 
present  efforts,  there  is  urgent  need  that  a work  on 
more  popular  lines  should  be  instituted — something 
that  will  attract  and  influence  the  masses.  A Mexican 
Centre,  or  clubhouse,  is  suggested — a place  which  the 
people  could  look  upon  as  their  own,  and  in  whose 
privileges  the  whole  Spanish-speaking  community 
would  be  invited  to  share.  In  connection  with  this 
should  be  a reading-room  provided  with  current  Mex- 
ican periodicals  and  a variety  of  other  attractive  lit- 
erature. There  should  be  night  classes  for  the  study 
of  English — meeting  a real  need,  especially  for  young 
men  beyond  school  age.  The  program  might  also  in- 
clude popular  talks  in  Spanish  (often  illustrated  by 
the  stereopticon),  on  such  topics  as  American  history, 
Mexican  history,  stories  of  travel,  of  famous  men, 
talks  on  hygiene  and  sanitary  living,  on  temperance, 
etc.  There  could  be  an  occasional  musical  program, 
or  popular  entertainment,  in  which  the  people  them- 
selves would  take  part.  Mothers’  meetings  could  be 


MEXICANS  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES  245 


arranged  in  which  practical  instructions  would  be 
given  on  the  care  of  children,  and  on  domestic  science. 
Organizations  like  the  Boy  Scouts  in  some  instances 
would  be  useful  and  practicable. 

This  kind  of  work  would  in  itself  be  thoroughly 
Christian,  if  conducted  under  the  direction  of  leaders 
whose  hearts  were  fired  with  the  love  of  God  and  their 
Mexican  neighbours;  yet  it  should  develop  into  and 
be  carried  on  in  connection  with  an  aggressive  evan- 
gelistic enterprise.  The  one  in  charge  of  such  a 
Centre  should  be  able  to  enlist  capable  help  from 
Americans  in  the  community,  irrespective  of  denom- 
ination. All  citizens  should  take  efficient  interest  in 
its  support. 

A veteran  missionary  of  the  Southwest  spoke  from 
experience  when  he  said,  “ No  more  important  work 
can  be  found  in  the  world  than  the  work  among  our 
Spanish-speaking  Americans.  The  churches  do  not 
know  about  it.  They  have  no  idea  of  the  number  of 
these  people;  nor  have  they  any  conception  of  their 
religious  needs.  If  only  they  lived  in  Africa  the 
churches  would  go  to  their  relief.” 

The  children  of  Mexican  families  in  the  United 
States  share  freely  the  privileges  of  our  splendid 
public  schools.  Tens  of  thousands  of  bright-eyed  boys 
and  girls  of  Spanish-speaking  parents  are  now  under 
American  teachers,  laying  the  foundations  of  good 
citizenship.  These  little  Mexicans  enter  the  first 
grade  knowing  little  or  no  English.  In  many  places 
it  is  the  custom  to  group  these  children  in  separate 
rooms  under  teachers  conversant  with  the  Spanish 


246  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


(which  is  the  method  giving  best  results).  So  bright 
mentally  are  these  little  ones  that  in  spite  of  their 
handicap  in  language  it  is  common  for  entire  room- 
fuls of  them  to  advance  from  grade  to  grade  with 
no  loss  of  time,  mastering  the  English,  and  yet  cover- 
ing the  same  studies  as  their  American  mates  without 
falling  in  the  least  behind  them.  After  three  years  by 
themselves  they  enter  the  same  rooms  with  American 
pupils  who  began  at  the  same  time,  and  easily  keep  pace 
with  them, — so  the  teachers,  who  are  enthusiastic  in 
praise  of  their  Mexican  pupils,  inform  me. 

Through  the  favour  of  a teacher  I give  the  follow- 
ing as  a sample  of  English  composition.  Given  one 
word  (the  italicized),  each  child  in  the  room  com- 
poses his  own  sentences.  This  is  the  work  of  a Mex- 
ican girl,  aged  eight,  in  the  3A  grade. 

“ I saw  an  elephant  in  the  circus.” 

“ Miss  Machado  buys  some  grapes.” 

“ I mount  on  the  horse” 

“ I like  potatoes.” 

“ In  the  bakery  they  sell  pies” 

“ The  ostriches  hatch  in  si&  week.” 

“ Miss  Machado  saw  the  Fair  in  San  Diego.” 

“ The  man  is  walking  on  the  street  ” 

“ I lost  my  page  in  book.” 

“ (Signed)  Agnes  Noriega.” 

This  is  only  a fair  sample  of  dozens  of  others  shown 
me. 

The  teachers  in  our  public  schools  having  charge 


MEXICANS  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES  247 


of  Mexican  children  are  in  most  instances  doing  as 
fine  a work  as  if  they  were  missionary  teachers  in 
a foreign  land.  The  attachment  between  pupil  and 
teacher  is  strong,  and  the  personal  influence  over  the 
children — and  through  them  reaching  their  families — 
is  not  insignificant. 

The  following  letter  is  from  a little  brown  boy, 
born  in  Mexico,  to  his  first-year  teacher  (American), 
of  whom  he  became  very  fond.  Although  not  now 
in  her  room,  he  often  runs  in  to  see  her,  and  is  anx- 
ious that  she  should  not  forget  him. 


“ Chino,  Cal. 


My  dear  teacher, 

when  you  need  somebody  to  help 
you  and  you  do  not  no  what  to  do  just  tell  me  and 
I will  do  everything  for  you  that  you  need  and  do 
not  forget  me  because  I was  in  your  room  and  do 
not  be  afraid  to  ask  me  anything  and  if  you  no  that 
I am  a good  boy  why  cant  ask  me  to  clean  your 
blackboard  at  any  time  that  you  what  to.  and  do  not 
feel  sorry  because  this  letter  is  not  in  a envelope,  and  1 
thing (k)  you  havet  forget  my  name.” 


As  the  little  fellow  brought  the  letter  himself,  it  was 
unsigned.  The  public  schools  are  doing  a magnificent 
work  for  Mexican  children  in  this  country,  and  public 
funds  might  most  properly  be  appropriated  in  aid  of 
social  service  enterprise,  as  here  outlined. 

The  Mexican  element  in  our  American  population 
is  certain  to  increase  and,  for  the  southwestern  border 


248  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


states,  at  least,  the  Mexican  problem  cannot  be  ig- 
nored. Is  not  the  hand  of  God  to  be  seen  in  the  pres- 
ence of  these  people  among  us?  Are  they  to  blame 
for  their  ignorance  and  their  defects?  With  only 
their  wretched  opportunities,  would  Americans  be  any 
better?  They  urgently  need  what  we  can  give.  It  is 
possible  for  American  Christians  to  win  their  confi- 
dence, their  admiration,  and  their  love,  and  then  influ- 
ence them  as  they  will. 

The  question  is,  shall  they  be  left,  as  at  present,  to 
the  corrupting  influences  of  the  cities,  and  so  become 
more  and  more  a menace  to  our  society,  or  shall  we 
overcome  the  evil  influences  with  good  ones,  and  help 
these  unfortunate  ones  into  the  ranks  of  Christ’s 
people  ? 

I repeat  that  the  present  urgent  need  is  a social 
service  work  established  in  every  considerable  Mex- 
ican community,  a work  so  sympathetic,  and  connect- 
ing so  vitally  with  the  every-day  interests  of  the  people 
that  the  attention  of  the  masses  may  be  compelled  and 
their  confidence  won.  So  may  they  be  brought  to 
share  with  us  the  best  of  our  Christian  civilization. 


VI 

AMERICANS  IN  MEXICO 


THEY  were  to  be  found  everywhere,  building 
railways,  digging  out  the  precious  metals, 
operating  great  stock  ranches,  planting  im- 
mense rubber  and  coffee  plantations,  cultivating  citrus 
groves  and  other  fruits,  both  of  the  tropics  and  the 
temperate  zone.  There  were  thousands  of  all-round 
American  farmers  applying  to  Mexican  soil  and  condi- 
tions the  best  of  modern  methods — and  prospering. 

Not  a few  were  operating  up-to-date  flouring  mills. 
Some  had  invested  in  the  cane-sugar  industry;  some 
in  breweries,  in  manufacturing,  or  in  lumbering. 
Others  were  becoming  rich  in  the  petroleum  business. 
There  were  American  merchants,  and  agencies  of  all 
kinds.  American  land  and  water  companies  were 
opening  new  and  wonderfully  rich  regions  for  settle- 
ment. 

Everywhere,  at  least  in  northern  Mexico,  were 
found  American  doctors  and  dentists,  not  only  in  the 
principal  cities,  but  in  smaller  places.  These  physicians 
have  usually  most  excellent  reputation,  although  some 
of  the  travelling  “ specialists  ” find  it  convenient  not 
to  revisit  their  former  scenes  of  practice. 

Indefatigable  prospectors,  pick  and  hammer  in  hand, 

249 


250  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


were  searching  the  mountains  for  new  El  Dorados, 
or  to  uncover  some  lost  mine  of  fabulous  richness. 

In  addition  to  these  strenuous  “ Yanquis  ” — tens  of 
thousands  of  them — there  were  to  be  found  in 
Mexico  multitudes  of  “ tramp  ” Americans,  mere  idle 
hangers-on,  many  of  them : others  looking  for  em- 
ployment in  American  enterprises,  or  seeking  oppor- 
tunity for  easy  riches,  or — not  a few — to  escape  arrest 
for  misdemeanours  in  their  own  country. 

Every  year  saw  an  increasing  number  of  American 
tourists  in  Mexico,  some  spending  a fortnight  or  less 
in  the  “ Land  of  Sunshine,”  while  others  lingered 
months,  passing  leisurely  from  city  to  city,  enjoying 
to  the  full  the  matchless  climate,  the  magnificent 
scenery,  the  remarkable  antiquities,  the  tropical  fruits, 
and  the  curiously  interesting  types  of  humanity. 

Many  American  enterprises  were  on  so  large  a scale 
and  occupied  such  numbers  of  American  employes 
as  to  create  about  them  communities  dominantly  Amer- 
ican in  character  and  privileges,  having  schools  for 
the  English-speaking  children,  stores,  hotels,  hospitals 
and  like  institutions,  all  under  American  manage- 
ment. Such  were  many  of  the  great  mining  camps  of 
Mexico,  as  the  notable  lumber  town  of  Madera,  and 
such  the  half-dozen  Mormon  colonies  in  Chihuahua 
and  Sonora. 

Americans  in  Chihuahua  City  were  especially 
numerous.  Scores  of  families  were  permanently  set- 
tled. A good  American  newspaper  was  maintained. 
Mexico  City  had  an  American  colony  of  more  than 
six  thousand.  Here  were  two  American  newspapers, 


AMERICANS  IN  MEXICO 


251 


one — the  Mexican  Herald — being  a leading  daily  of 
the  capital,  having  an  extensive  circulation  throughout 
the  republic. 

I say  “ were  ” for  the  recent  violent  disorders  have 
driven  the  majority  of  Americans  from  the  country. 
Nevertheless,  thousands  remain,  none  of  the  various 
crises  in  the  relations  between  the  United  States  and 
Mexico  having  been  sufficiently  serious  to  force  them 
from  the  country.  And  thousands  who  came  out 
when  international  difficulties  threatened,  soon  re- 
turned that  they  might  stand  by  and  guard,  as  best 
they  could,  their  business  investments. 

Not  a few  Americans  in  Mexico  have  more  than 
property  interests  there.  They  have  Mexican  wives 
and  children.  It  should  not  be  understood  that  these 
men  have  married  beneath  them.  Probably  they  have, 
in  some  instances;  but  often  the  Mexican  bride  is  of 
superior  family  and  brings  to  her  Northern  husband 
beauty,  wealth,  high  refinement,  and  lovely  char- 
acter. Such  Americans — and  many  others — consider 
themselves  permanently  established  in  Aztec  Land: 
some  dwell  in  charming  villas  with  no  lack  of  comfort 
and  luxury,  take  prominent  part  in  the  social  life  about 
them,  and  are  thoroughly  respected  by  their  Mexican 
neighbours. 

A few  have  become  naturalized  as  Mexican  citi- 
zens, and  wield  an  influence  in  local  politics.  Such 
the  postmaster  at  our  near-by  city  of  Galeana,  my 
good  friend,  Henry  Porter,  whose  quiet,  affable 
manners  won  him  universal  esteem,  and  whose  decease 
was  the  occasion  of  popular  municipal  obsequies.  The 


252  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


Senor  Enrique  Creel,  a former  ambassador  from  Mex- 
ico to  Washington,  was  the  son  of  an  American 
father. 

But  as  the  Mexicans  are  now  pouring  into  the 
United  States  thinking  only  to  better  their  own  con- 
dition and  with  no  thought  of  contributing  anything 
of  value  to  our  civilization,  so  multitudes  of  the 
Americans  who  have  interests  in  Mexico  have  gone 
there  attracted  by  great  opportunities  and  with  no 
other  purpose  than  to  turn  these  to  their  own  advan- 
tage. Not  all  were  becoming  wealthy,  but,  while  some 
failures  were  made,  large  fortunes  were  also  accumu- 
lated. Investments  were  fortunate  for  capitalists; 
mines  and  other  enterprises  were  prodigiously  profita- 
ble for  the  operators,  and  salaries  were  generous  for 
the  American  employes — mostly  skilled  labourers,  or 
heads  of  departments,  having  under  them  Mexican 
peons. 

The  aggregate  of  American  capital  invested  in 
Mexico  in  1910 — at  the  outbreak  of  the  revolution — 
is  said  to  have  been  not  less  than  $1,000,000,000  gold. 
The  enterprises  which  represented  this  investment  fur- 
nished employment  to  hundreds  of  thousands  of 
Mexicans. 

One  hears  in  these  days  of  the  ill  will  on  the  part 
of  Mexicans  towards  Americans.  Does  it  exist? 
Why?  Are  Americans  in  large  degree  to  blame? 
How?  The  answer  cannot  be  given  in  few  words. 

While  it  is  true  that  Americans  are  in  Mexico  for 
their  own  profit,  it  is  also  true  that  they  have  con- 
tributed enormously  to  the  material  prosperity  of 


AMERICANS  IN  MEXICO 


253 


Mexico  through  the  development  of  its  natural  re- 
sources. As  a rule  Americans  have  benefited  the 
masses  with  whom  they  have  come  in  contact,  not 
only  by  furnishing  them  employment  at  wages  higher 
than  they  had  been  accustomed  to  receive,  but  by 
teaching  habits  of  promptness,  diligence,  and  thrift. 
Considerate  treatment  is  accorded  these  labourers. 
Their  physical  well-being  is  made  a matter  of  concern, 
and  well-appointed  hospitals  with  trained  American 
nurses  and  first-class  physicians  are  found  in  connec- 
tion with  all  American  enterprises  of  importance. 
The  peons  who  fall  ill  or  meet  with  accident  are  freely 
given  the  best  and  kindest  of  treatment.  Of  course 
this  pays  as  a purely  business  measure. 

I know  of  cases  where  employers  go  farther  and 
establish  reading-rooms,  night  classes,  and  provide  in- 
nocent and  helpful  entertainments  for  their  men.  As 
one  instance,  the  Nacozari  Mining  Company,  Sonora, 
maintains  at  no  small  cost  what  is  in  effect  a Young 
Men’s  Christian  Association  with  privileges  open  to 
its  hundreds  of  employes. 

A Batopilas  mining  company  has  repeatedly  paid 
the  expenses  of  a missionary  from  Chihuahua  to  that 
distant  mountain  town.  These  Americans  also  as- 
sisted liberally  in  the  support  of  the  mission  out- 
station — with  which  they  had  no  denominational  con- 
nection— and  for  a number  of  years  they  maintained, 
entirely  at  their  own  expense,  an  excellent  school  for 
the  children  of  their  employes,  this  school  being 
under  the  direction  of  graduates  from  Protestant  in- 
stitutions and  recommended  by  the  missionary. 


254  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


Some  of  the  Americans  at  Parral  have  become 
possessed  of  considerable  wealth  through  their  min- 
ing, railway,  and  lumbering  undertakings.  Through 
these  the  city  and  all  the  surrounding  region  have 
received  great  benefit.  Thousands  of  poor  families 
have  been  comfortably  maintained  and  kind  treatment 
given.  To-day,  should  one  ask  of  these  people, 
“What  kind  of  a man  is  don  Santiago?”  (a  prom- 
inent American),  the  answer  would  be,  “Don  Santi- 
ago is  a good  master.  He  has  been  fair  with  us.  He 
is  our  friend.”  Instances  are  rare  where  relations 
between  American  operators  and  their  Mexican  work- 
men are  otherwise  than  friendly.  The  same  may  be 
said  of  all  well-disposed  Americans  in  Mexico.  While 
recognizing  the  faults  of  the  ignorant  peons,  they  do 
not  fail  to  be  attracted  by  their  good  qualities  and  to 
esteem  them.  “ Don  Santiago  ” — a millionaire — al- 
ways has  a good  word  for  his  Mexicans.  He 
has  fairly  earned  their  good  will  and  greatly 
prizes  it. 

Nevertheless,  in  certain  quarters  there  exists  strong 
ill-feeling  toward  Americans.  Some  of  this  dates 
back  to  our  own  war  with  Mexico  seventy  years  ago. 
This  country  was  clearly  unjust  in  her  treatment  of 
the  weaker  nation.  Some  Mexican  histories  prepared 
for  use  as  textbooks  in  the  public  schools,  describe 
plainly  the  unfair  treatment,  so  that  the  rising  gen- 
eration of  Mexicans  may  bear  it  in  mind.  Many  a 
high-spirited  boy  does  not  lose  the  grudge  toward 
“ gringoes”  which  was  first  awakened  in  his  history 
class. 


AMERICANS  IN  MEXICO 


255 


A good  deal  of  unpleasant  feeling  against  Amer- 
icans has  been  naturally  aroused  by  an  unworthy  class 
of  our  countrymen  in  that  land — men  overbearing  in 
their  conduct  with  Mexicans,  rude,  discourteous, 
abusive,  persistently  seeing  only  the  defects  in  the 
less  fortunate  people  and  making  no  attempt  to  con- 
ceal their  contempt  for  them.  It  is  this  class  of 
“ gringoes”  (they  deserve  the  epithet)  that  one  hears 
loudly  defaming  the  whole  Mexican  race.  Naturally 
such  Americans  do  not  succeed  in  winning  the  respect, 
much  less  the  esteem,  of  a sensitive  people — who  are, 
moreover,  apt  to  judge  all  Americans  by  these  bad 
samples.  Most  unfortunately,  the  United  States  has 
many  such  undesirable  representatives  in  Mexico  and 
along  the  border.  It  is  they  who  are  responsible  for 
much  of  the  ugly  feeling  reported,  and  it  is  such  as 
they  who  are  loudest  in  their  demands  that  there  shall 
be  armed  intervention  in  Mexico. 

There  is  just  cause  for  dissatisfaction  with  Amer- 
icans who,  bringing  large  capital  into  the  country, 
have  succeeded  in  securing  most  valuable  concessions 
there  through  “ private  understanding  ” with  high  of- 
ficials in  a corrupt  national  administration.  To  be 
sure,  other  foreigners  and  many  shrewd  Mexicans 
themselves  did  the  same  thing.  Thinking  Mexicans 
seriously  blame  the  old  Diaz  government  and  all  con- 
cerned in  the  administration  grants  which  made  pos- 
sible such  monopolies  as  that  of  the  oil  trust  in  Mex- 
ico, by  which  foreigners  are  piling  up  vast  wealth 
at  the  expense,  in  part,  of  the  Mexican  public. 

Another  thing  contributes  to  the  lack  of  cordial 


256  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


feeling  toward  Americans.  It  is  jealousy  of  the  great- 
ness and  power  of  the  United  States,  of  its  prosperity 
and  marvellous  capacity  for  accomplishing  things.  The 
“ Yankees  ” go  into  Mexico  and  uncover  opportunities 
which  the  easy-going  Mexicans  had  never  seen,  and 
whatever  they  attempt  they  carry  through.  They  set 
a pace  in  all  lines  with  which  the  Mexicans  are  unable 
to  keep  up.  This  is  especially  true  of  Mexico’s  leading 
class,  business  men  and  capitalists.  “ Upon  our  own 
soil  these  foreigners  come  and  by  their  inventiveness, 
tremendous  energy,  and  their  everlasting  perseverance 
do  things  little  short  of  miraculous.”  The  Americans 
introduce  new  and  entirely  superior  methods  of  re- 
ducing ores.  They  buy  cheaply  mining  properties  of 
little  further  use  to  their  Mexican  owners,  and  soon 
put  them  on  a good  paying  basis.  They  even  extract 
fortunes  from  “ tailings  ” abandoned  during  the  use 
of  obsolete  methods.  They  bring  in  from  their  own 
country  astonishingly  improved  mining  and  milling 
machinery  which  put  to  shame  the  old  processes. 
American  farmers  introduce  combination  harvesters 
which  make  the  Mexican  sickles  appear  childish. 
They  set  up  their  humming  threshers  which  in  a day 
clean  up  more  grain  than  the  Mexican  ponies  across 
the  road  can  tread  out  in  a fortnight.  I do  not  mean 
that  there  exists  widespread  jealousy  toward  Amer- 
icans on  account  of  these  things.  The  masses  have 
only  admiration;  leading  Mexicans  also  become  inter- 
ested and  see  the  importance  of  falling  into  line  by 
adopting  the  undeniable  improvements,  but  it  would 
be  easier  to  accord  all  due  honour  to  the  Northern 


AMERICANS  IN  MEXICO 


257 


neighbours  did  they  not  so  often  calmly  assume  the 
air  of  superiority. 

During  the  last  few  years  there  has  been  much 
complaint  in  Mexico  against  the  Washington  admin- 
istration for  its  unwarranted  interference  (so  all 
classes  believe)  in  Mexican  affairs.  I was  in  Her- 
mosillo,  Sonora,  when  the  news  came  that  Vera  Cruz 
was  occupied  by  American  troops.  The  startling  re- 
port quickly  spread  and  the  city’s  traffic  suddenly  came 
to  a standstill.  Groups  of  citizens  promptly  collected 
here  and  there,  angrily  discusssing  the  situation. 
Mexican  friends  came  to  me  to  obtain  my  views  of 
the  matter.  While  endeavouring  to  put  the  best  con- 
struction possible  on  the  motives  of  the  Washington 
government,  it  was  not  in  my  power  to  give  a satis- 
factory explanation.  Interference  in  favour  of  one 
Mexican  faction  was  sure  to  arouse  the  fierce  hos- 
tility of  the  others,  and  the  incoming  of  the  “ Punitive 
Expedition  ” disgusted  all. 

The  common  people  of  the  civilian  class  have  ordi- 
narily no  anti-American  sentiment,  except  on  the 
ground  of  threatened  or  actual  invasion. 

It  is  inevitable  that  there  should  be  lack  of  con- 
geniality between  races  so  different  as  the  Anglo- 
Saxon  and  the  Latin-American,  but  there  is  nothing 
of  existing  ill-feeling  which  may  not  be  removed  by 
better  acquaintance,  and  a genuine  respect  for  each 
other’s  rights. 

What  do  Americans  in  Mexico  and  those  whose 
property  interests  are  there,  think  of  the  outlook  for 
that  country?  The  prospect  seems  to  them  discourag- 


258  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


ing,  because  of  the  bitter  factional  divisions,  the  per- 
sonal ambitions,  the  seriousness  of  the  problems  to 
be  faced,  and  the  difficulty  of  uniting  on  policy  and 
leader. 

Undoubtedly  quite  the  larger  part  of  American  resi- 
dents and  property  holders  in  Mexico  believe  that  a 
permanently  stable  government  cannot  now  be  estab- 
lished in  that  country  without  the  assistance  of  an 
outside  power.  They,  therefore,  favour  American  in- 
tervention— in  as  friendly  a way  as  the  Mexicans  will 
admit,  but,  in  any  case,  intervention  which  will  result 
in  establishing  a stable  government  there. 

Multitudes  of  Americans  have  all  their  earthly  in- 
terests on  the  Mexican  side  of  the  line.  Their  losses 
through  destruction  of  property  in  the  revolutions, 
and  the  interruption  of  business  through  so  long  a 
period,  reach  high  figures.  They  believe  that  without 
intervention  their  losses  are  liable  to  continue  indefi- 
nitely. While  their  motives  are  inspired  mainly  by 
the  thought  of  self-protection,  these  Americans  are 
undoubtedly  sincere  in  their  conviction  that  the  result 
of  intervention  would  be  of  incalculable  benefit  to  the 
country  as  a whole,  and  that  the  people — less  a small 
per  cent  of  politicians  and  ambitious  militarists — 
would  soon  recognize  this  benefit  and  accept  the  sit- 
uation. Mexicans  themselves  who  incline  to  hold  this 
same  view  naturally  are  very  cautious  in  expressing 
themselves,  yet  it  is  known  that  there  is  such  a class, 
which  doubtless  increases  in  number  as  the  revolu- 
tionary conditions  become  more  complicated. 

Another  class  of  Americans  in  Mexico  take  a dif- 


AMERICANS  IN  MEXICO 


259 


ferent  view.  The  missionaries,  teachers,  and  Chris- 
tian workers,  those  who  have  spent  their  lives  among 
the  people  and  know  them  intimately,  and  have  their 
highest  well-being  at  heart  are,  I believe,  unanimously 
of  the  conviction  that  armed  intervention  would  be  a 
very  serious  mistake;  the  spiritedly  independent  tem- 
per of  the  people  would  stubbornly  resent  such  inter- 
ference. National  ill  will  toward  the  invading  coun- 
try would  assume  extreme  proportions,  and  might 
not  be  removed  by  a century  of  fair  treatment.  As 
one  says,  “ We  should  not  intervene  by  sending  sol- 
diers to  Mexico.  That  would  be  terrible,  disastrous. 
But  out  of  our  strength  and  abundance  we  ought  to 
send  to  our  needy  neighbour  teachers,  evangelists, 
friends.  These  will  be  made  welcome.  They  will 
win  for  us  the  eternal  gratitude  and  good  will  of  an 
entire  nation.”  * 


* “ Mexico  To-day.' 


VII 


AMERICAN  HELP  FOR  MEXICO- 
EDUCATIONAL 

THE  two  peoples  can  be  mutually  helpful:  but 
first  of  all  they  should  be  better  acquainted. 
Through  better  acquaintance  would  come- 
better  understanding  and  that  would  mean  increase  of 
confidence  and  friendliness.  The  Mexican  might 
profitably  copy  from  his  Northern  neighbour  some  of 
his  overflowing  energy,  his  promptness,  his  frankness, 
and  his  love  of  industry.  The  American  of  to-day 
just  as  much  needs  those  qualities  of  courtesy,  com- 
posure, and  freedom  from  nervous  strain  which  char- 
acterize the  Mexican.  In  the  endeavour  to  under- 
stand one  another,  Americans  should  bear  in  mind 
that  the  atrocities — like  the  Columbus  raid  and  other 
hostile  acts  against  our  countrymen — are  not  blows 
aimed  at  us  by  the  Mexican  people,  but  are  deeds  of 
outlawry  which  cause  them  no  less  horror  than  our- 
selves. Most  unfortunately  for  Mexico  her  lawless 
class  has  been  very  much  in  evidence  and  the  outside 
world  inclines  to  judge  the  whole  nation  by  its  small 
per  cent  of  evildoers.  On  the  other  hand,  the  Mex- 
icans not  unnaturally  fail  to  understand  the  Amer- 
icans. Our  daily  papers,  particularly  those  along  the 

260 


AMERICAN  HELP— EDUCATIONAL  261 


border,  commonly  contain  careless  and  unfair  state- 
ments about  the  people  across  the  line.  Hundreds  of 
intelligent,  English-speaking  Mexicans  on  both  sides 
read  these  and  do  not  fail  to  be  impressed  with  the 
unfriendly,  or,  at  least,  depreciatory  sentiments  ex- 
pressed. These  same  American  dailies  reach  the  of- 
fices of  Mexican  newspapers,  and  the  result  is  a 
constant  increase  of  misunderstanding,  with  corre- 
sponding decrease  of  confidence. 

It  is  not  strange  that  the  Mexican  people  should  be- 
lieve themselves  ill  thought  of  by  the  Americans.  As  a 
matter  of  fact,  the  real  American  attitude  toward 
Mexicans  is  genuinely  friendly.  We  admire  the  spirit 
they  have  displayed  in  their  struggles  for  liberty.  We 
sympathize  with  them  and  wish  them  success.  Every- 
where in  our  churches  are  heard  prayers  for  God’s 
blessing  upon  Mexico.  While  in  certain  quarters  much 
has  been  heard  suggestive  of  war  with  that  country, 
and  even  of  annexation,  the  better  class  of  Americans 
do  not,  and  will  not  for  a moment  tolerate  such  sugges- 
tions. It  is  our  desire  that  Mexico  retain  her  sov- 
ereignty and  become  great  and  prosperous  in  the  sis- 
terhood of  nations.  In  her  present  prolonged  and  very 
serious  difficulties  it  is  of  prime  importance  to  Mexico 
that  Americans  should  understand  her  and  treat  her 
in  a spirit  of  fairness.  President  Carranza  recently 
said  to  an  American  interviewer,  “ Only  your  sym- 
pathy, that  is  all  we  are  asking,”  and  “ What  we  would 
like  from  the  next  American  President,  whatever  his 
name  may  be,  is  a Mexican  policy  which  will  combine 
sympathy  with  firmness  and  consistency.” 


262  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


But  while  the  Mexican  people  do  not  ask  material 
aid,  their  difficult  situation  urgently  demands  of  their 
strong  neighbour  such  genuine  and  practical  sympathy 
as  will  effectively  help  them  in  overcoming  their  dif- 
ficulties. 

What  are  these  difficulties?  Or,  rather,  what  is 
their  cause?  Mexico,  in  common  with  other  Latin- 
American  countries,  has  the  name  of  being  revolu- 
tionary because  of  the  inevitable  conflict  between  the 
oppressive  ruling  class  and  the  ignorant  masses,  who 
are  getting  glimpses  of  better  things.  The  time  was 
in  Mexico  (in  the  days  of  the  viceroys)  when  the 
masses  were  so  completely  submerged  in  ignorance  as 
to  have  few  aspirations.  Those  days  are  past,  for 
the  common  people  have  begun  to  see  a great  light.  It 
is  coming  to  them  in  the  public-school  system,  how- 
ever imperfect.  It  is  coming  through  the  public  press, 
with  its  recent  rapid  increase  of  circulation,  and 
through  the  mingling  with  them  of  foreigners  bring- 
ing advanced  ideas  of  free  government. 

Mexico  will  never  again  be  satisfied  with  the  old 
order.  The  popular  cries  are,  “ More  light,”  “ More 
liberty,”  “ Justice,”  “ Reform.”  But  the  masses  are 
not  freed  from  the  bonds  of  ignorance.  Even  to-day 
more  than  fifty  per  cent  of  Mexico’s  population  is 
illiterate.  They  have  not  clear  ideas  of  “ liberty,”  or 
“ justice,”  or  “ reform,”  and  still  less  clear  are  their 
ideas  of  how  these  are  to  be  secured.  Unfortunately, 
the  great  majority  of  those  who  are  now  demanding 
all  the  rights  of  a republican  government  have  no  ex- 
perience in  self-government  and  are  not  yet  prepared 


AMERICAN  HELP— EDUCATIONAL  263 


for  sovereign  citizenship.  This  is  admitted  by  intelli- 
gent Mexicans.  Some  of  those  who  before  the  revolu- 
tion joined  in  opposing  the  autocratic  rule  of  Diaz 
are  now  convinced  that  a benevolent,  just,  and  yet 
“ iron  ” autocracy  may  be  the  government  which 
Mexico  needs  for  the  immediate  present,  and  that  the 
masses  should  assume  gradually,  only  as  they  become 
prepared,  the  full  privileges  of  democracy. 

Since  gaining  her  independence  Mexico  has  made 
remarkable  progress  in  the  face  of  gravest  difficulties. 
Within  the  last  generation  her  public-school  system 
has  witnessed  notable  development.  In  spite  of  all, 
however,  her  great  need  to-day  is  more  light. 

Charles  W.  Dabney,  president  of  the  University  of 
Cincinnati,  has  made  thorough  study  of  the  Mexican 
situation.  He  says,*  “ What  is  the  meaning  of  the 
series  of  revolutions  which  have  been  going  on  in 
that  country  for  the  last  hundred  years  ? 

“ These  revolutions,  including  this  last  long  one, 
have  all,  at  bottom,  been  phases  of  a blind,  misguided 
struggle  of  a strong,  ignorant  people  for  liberty. 
They  sprang  from  a desire  of  the  common  people  to 
realize  the  benefits  of  democracy,  whose  catchwords 
had  reached  even  to  them,  but  whose  terms  they  only 
vaguely  understood.  They  constitute  a contest  against 
a feudal  system  approaching  slavery.  They  were 
chiefly,  although  not  entirely,  the  strivings  of  an  op- 
pressed people  to  win  for  themselves  and  their  chil- 
dren a small  place  upon  the  soil  of  their  native  land. 
These  blind  efforts  have  failed  of  their  ends  largely 

*“A  Star  of  Hope  for  Mexico,”  Outlook,  March  22,  1916. 


264  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


because  of  the  ignorance  of  the  people  and  the  lack 
of  true  and  unselfish  leaders.  There  has  never  been 
a middle  class  in  Mexico  to  supply  leaders  for  the 
people  in  their  struggles  with  the  feudal  lords.  Or- 
ganized public  opinion  is  the  only  basis  for  democratic 
government,  and  this  has  never  existed  in  Mexico. 
There  are  no  real  political  parties.  The  only  politics 
are  wholly  personal,  and  the  only  political  organiza- 
tions are  gangs  formed  to  advance  the  interests  of 
leaders  whose  names  they  bear.  There  are  no  po- 
litical campaigns  to  educate  the  voters,  but  only  pro- 
cessions and  rallies  intended  to  impress  them.  There 
is,  in  fact,  no  free  political  discussion  of  any  kind. 
Organized  public  opinion  and  the  free  discussion  of 
political  affairs  so  necessary  to  free  government  cannot 
exist  where  the  masses  of  the  people  are  ignorant. 
The  only  solution  of  the  Mexican  problem,  therefore, 
will  be  through  the  establishment  of  public  schools 
which  will  educate  the  people  to  know  their  rights, 
and  train  men  to  lead  them  in  their  struggles  to  win 
these  rights.”  And  this  is  what  the  people  want. 
Never  in  the  history  of  Mexico  has  there  been  such 
popular  demand  for  education.  This  is  hopeful  and 
vitally  concerns  Mexico’s  future.  Yet,  the  distressful 
financial  condition  of  the  country  at  present  not  only 
renders  impossible  needed  development  of  the  educa- 
tional system,  but  is  seriously  crippling  the  existing 
inadequate  one.  Some  good  American  friends  of 
Mexico  have  said  that  the  United  States  could  do  her 
sister  republic  a neighbourly  turn  by  assuming  for  a 
period  of  years  the  entire  financial  support  of  her 


(c)  Underwood  & Underwood 

Homes  and  Natives  of  Tehuantepec  Isthmus 


AMERICAN  HELP— EDUCATIONAL  265 


schools.  They  reason  that  in  no  other  way  could 
Americans  so  well  help  their  neighbour  in  her  trouble- 
some crisis.  Such  a proposal,  for  obvious  reasons, 
Mexico  would  not  accept.  But  a generous  American 
loan  to  the  Mexican  government,  with  the  agreement 
that  a designated  per  cent  of  it  be  expended  on  public 
education,  would  be  a friendly  act,  helping  where  aid 
is  most  needed  and  promotive  of  good  will. 

Mention  has  been  made  of  the  educational  work 
carried  on  in  Mexico  by  the  various  missionary  so- 
cieties operating  there,  and  of  how  these  schools  are 
appreciated  and  patronized.  There  is  need  of  more 
such  institutions,  especially  of  secondary  schools  and 
colleges.  An  American  who  well  knows  the  situation 
says,*  “ Had  a great  Protestant  college  been  set  down 
in  that  country  twenty  years  ago,  its  position  would 
by  this  time  be  as  commanding  as  that  of  Robert 
College  in  Turkey,  or  of  some  of  the  great  mis- 
sionary institutions  in  India  and  China.  It  is  not 
even  yet  too  late  for  the  planting  of  such  a school, 
which  ought,  if  founded,  to  be  interdenominational, 
liberally  equipped  and  endowed.  There  are  few 
openings  in  America  more  promising  than  this 
for  the  bestowment  of  a substantial  sum  of  money 
by  some  philanthropist  who  seeks  to  serve  his 
generation.” 

This  need  has  long  been  felt  by  others  who  have 
given  their  lives  to  Christian  work  in  Mexico.  In 
June,  1914,  there  was  held  at  Cincinnati,  Ohio,  a 
conference  of  the  representatives  of  the  principal  so- 
* George  B.  Winton,  “ Mexico  To-day.” 


266  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS  . 


cieties  doing  work  in  Mexico.  The  main  purpose  of 
the  conference  was  to  discuss  and  agree  upon  a pro- 
gram of  closer  cooperation.  On  educational  lines  the 
proposals  adopted  were  that  elementary  schools  should 
be  carried  on  wherever  evangelical  congregations  were 
established,  that  there  should  be  a union  training  school 
for  preachers  and  Christian  workers,  to  be  called  “ The 
Bible  Institute  and  Theological  Seminary  of  the 
Evangelical  Church  in  Mexico  ” ; that  there  should  be 
union  normal,  industrial,  and  kindergarten  training 
schools  in  central  localities,  and  that  there  should  be 
a union  college. 

A great  National  Evangelical  Convention  was  held 
in  Mexico  City  in  March,  1917,  in  which  fourteen 
denominations  were  represented,  many  American  mis- 
sionaries and  some  officers  of  their  home  boards  being 
in  attendance.  In  spite  of  disturbed  political  condi- 
tions, this  was  altogether  the  most  important  Prot- 
estant gathering  ever  seen  in  that  country,  and  was 
dominated  throughout  by  a splendid  spirit  of  coopera- 
tion. The  great  need  of  an  educational  institution  of 
high  order  was  here  also  expressed  in  a resolution 
looking  toward  the  establishment  of  an  Evangelical 
University  in  Mexico. 

No  little  thought  has  been  given  to  this  subject,  not 
only  by  progressive  Mexicans  and  by  missionaries  la- 
bouring in  that  country,  but  by  prominent  Ameri- 
can educators  sympathetic  with  Christian  work 
there,  and  some  extracts  from  letters  received  by 
the  author  in  the  fall  of  1916  will  be  of  interest 
here. 


AMERICAN  HELP— EDUCATIONAL  267 


Dr.  John  Howland  * says,  “ I have  never  lost  the 
wish,  and  what  is  almost  the  belief,  that  there  shall 
be  established  in  Mexico  a well-equipped  evangelical 
university.  I believe  that  such  an  institution  would 
command  large  patronage  at  once,  and  could  be  made 
to  be  a tremendous  force  for  good.  The  Panama 
Congress  recommends  such  institutions  for  Mexico, 
Chili,  Argentina,  Brazil,  and  Cuba  as  soon  as  possible. 
The  Mexican  one  ought  to  have  about  five  millions  for 
outfit  and  endowment,  and  should  hardly  be  under- 
taken for  less  than  one  million.” 

Dr.  Newell  Dwight  Hillis  writes,  “ Perhaps  nothing 
could  do  more  for  the  people  of  Mexico  than  a good 
university,  educating  leaders  and  sending  them  out  as 
shepherds,  guiding  the  people  into  paths  of  peace  and 
prosperity.  Get  Watt  and  his  engine,  and  the  inven- 
tion will  take  care  of  itself.  Get  Paul  and  his  idea 
of  democracy,  and  liberty  will  make  its  way  into  all 
the  earth.  One  institution  that  manufactures  manhood 
of  good  quality  will  soon  diffuse  its  influence  over  an 
entire  state.  Scholarly  and  cosmopolitan  men  in  a 
university  situated  in  Mexico  City  would  form  a stand- 
ing protest  against  the  spirit  of  hate  and  revolution.” 
Dr.  David  P.  Barrows,  dean  of  the  University  of 
California,  in  a letter  dated  November  7,  1916,  says, 
“ I can  conceive  of  nothing  but  good  following  the 
establishment  in  Mexico  of  a university  as  an  exhibit 
of  American  interest  in  Mexico  and  as  a means  of 

* Dr.  Howland,  for  thirty-four  years  in  the  service  of  the 
American  Board  in  Mexico,  was  for  a long  period  director  of 
the  International  College  at  Guadalajara. 


268  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


Mexican  enlightenment.  A university  that  aimed  to 
train  leaders  in  all  sorts  of  fields  is  certainly  greatly 
needed  in  that  republic.” 

Rev.  John  W.  Butler,  D.D.,  who  for  more  than 
forty  years  has  been  a leader  in  the  Methodist  Epis- 
copal mission  of  Mexico,  says,  “ The  founding  of  such 
a university  ought  to  be  a great  thing  for  the  country. 
There  should  be  very  careful  management  at  first.  As 
you  know,  the  air  of  superiority  should  be  avoided. 
Of  course  the  need  is  great.  I certainly  believe  it 
would  help  to  create  and  maintain  friendly  relations 
between  the  two  peoples.  I would  throw  my  hat  high 
in  the  air  in  favour  of  the  enterprise.” 

President  Dabney  in  his  article  already  quoted  says, 
“ Mexico  has  no  college  or  university  of  the  modern 
type.  She  needs  intelligent  leaders,  but  has  no  insti- 
tution to  train  them.  One  of  the  best  possible  things, 
therefore,  that  could  be  done  in  Mexico,  while  helping 
to  start  her  elementary,  agricultural,  and  industrial 
schools,  would  be  to  give  her  an  independent  modern 
college  of  the  type  of  Robert  College,  of  Constantino- 
ple. Only  such  an  institution  can  train  Mexicans  in 
a way  to  make  them  into  the  wise,  unselfish,  and  inde- 
pendent leaders  the  people  need.” 

Nothing  is  more  true  than  that  the  “ air  of  superi- 
ority ” should  be  carefully  avoided  in  the  discussion 
and  management  of  such  an  enterprise,  if  undertaken 
largely  as  an  American  expression  of  interest  in  Mex- 
ico. A finely  cultivated  and  representative  Mexican, 
whose  opinion  I have  sought  as  to  how  our  people 
can  best  help  his  country,  heartily  approves  the  sug- 


AMERICAN  HELP— EDUCATIONAL  269 


gestion  of  a university,  and  is  sure  that  the  project 
may  be  so  tactfully  managed  as  to  meet  the  grateful 
acceptance  of  the  Mexican  people.  He  also  believes 
that  a great  educational  centre  conducted  in  part  under 
American  auspices  in  his  country  would  tend  power- 
fully to  promote  the  spirit  of  confidence  and  good 
will  between  Mexico  and  the  United  States. 

No  one  who  knows  Mexico’s  masses  questions  their 
having — not  here  and  there,  but  everywhere — all  the 
elements  of  a noble  and  progressive  people.  Hun- 
dreds of  that  nation’s  foremost  men,  including  the 
great  reformer,  Juarez,  and  the  great  Diaz,  sprang 
from  the  humblest  ranks.  Shall  not  we  from  our 
abundance  help  Mexico  to  train  teachers  and  leaders 
for  those  lower  millions  who  are  restlessly  aspiring 
for  better  things? 


— h 

VIII 


AMERICAN  HELP  FOR  MEXICO- 
RELIGIOUS 

TA  C A 

AFTER  all,  Mexico  needs  nothing  so  much  as 
the  Gospel.  There  is  jjo.  other  “ power  of  God 
unto  salvation  ” for  Mexico,  or  any  other  peo- 
ple. It  would  be  a mistake  to  help  found  institutions 
for  diffusing  intellectual  light  among  Mexico’s 
masses  and  fail  to  give  them  the  Light  of  the  World. 
Those  millions  have  never  seen  Jesus  the  Christ,  and 
that  is  their  trouble.  Latin  masses,  lifeless  forms, 
prayers  to  the  Virgin  and  to  the  Saints,  images  and 
imposing,  mysterious  ceremonies  have  not  saved  them, 
personally,  socially,  or  politically.  They  need  to  know 
the  Saviour  of  mankind. 

Our  Protestant  missions  have  made  a good  begin- 
ning in  that  country,  and  yet  only  a beginning.  Prog- 
ress so  far  has  not  been  rapid,  for  great  foundations 
cannot  be  hastily  laid.  There  is  urgen£  call  for  a for- 
ward movement  of  evangelization  ini  Mexico.  Even 
the  political  overturnings,  while  interfering  with  the 
progress  of  the  work  in  some  sections,  are  operating 
powerfully  to  weaken  the  influence  of  the  semi-pagan 
church,  and  are  preparing  the  way  for  a pure  and  vital 
type  of  Christianity. 

As  the  new  government  gains  stability,  a new  era 

270 


AMERICAN  HELP— RELIGIOUS  271 


of  evangelism  will  open  in  that  country,  although  new 
laws  coming  in  force  may  require  some  changes  of 
missionary  methods.  Already  plans  are  being  made 
for  more  effective  cooperation  of  the  various  denom- 
inations. At  the  Cincinnati  Conference,  and  again  at 
the  more  recent  Evangelical  Convention  in  Mexico, 
not  only  was  it  agreed  to  unite  in  the  support  and 
management  of  the  more  important  institutions  of 
learning,  but  all  are  to  unite  in  giving  Mexico  one 
great  evangelical  paper.  In  this  periodical,  Protes- 
tantism will  present  a solid  front,  and  its  appeal  will 
unquestionably  be  manyfold  stronger  than  the  com- 
bined influence  of  the  (excellent)  denominational  or- 
gans which  it  is  designed  to  displace.  A periodical 
of  the  character  planned,  preeminently  able  and  at- 
tractive, will  assuredly  gain  an  extensive  circulation, 
not  only  among  evangelical  readers,  but  among  all 
classes. 

In  addition  to  this,  there  is  to  be  an  illustrated  young 
people’s  paper,  also  under  union  auspices.  There  is 
proposed  a great  joint  publishing  plant  in  Mexico  City, 
from  which  streams  of  literature,  Christian  and  recon- 
structive, will  be  constantly  flowing  out,  even  to  the 
remotest  corners  of  the  republic. 

Among  other  resolutions  adopted  at  the  Mexico  Con- 
vention were  the  following : That  efforts  shall  be  made 
to  establish  medical  dispensaries  in  different  parts 
of  the  country ; that  study  shall  be  given  to  the  plan  for 
planting  interdenominational  hospitals;  that  study  be 
made  of  settlement  work  already  undertaken  in  several 
places  to  see  if  such  work  may  not  well  be  attempted 


272  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


elsewhere;  and,  with  reference  to  church  cooperation, 
that  churches  of  every  denomination  adopt  the  name 
“ Mexican  Evangelical  Church,”  expressing  below,  in 
parentheses,  the  denomination,  and  that  a commission 
be  named  to  work  out  a plan  of  organic  union  of  the 
various  denominations  working  in  Mexico. 

In  the  prosecution  of  Christ’s  work  there,  it  is  de- 
sired to  remove  every  possible  element  of  friction  be- 
tween churches  and  every  possible  hindrance  to  the 
most  efficient  economy  in  the  expenditure  of  money 
and  the  distribution  of  forces. 

It  was  found  that  in  1910 — on  the  outbreak  of  the 
revolution — Mexico  had  one  missionary  for  every 
seventy  thousand  people,  but  that  fourteen  states,  with 
five  million  population,  had  no  resident  missionary. 
In  view  of  this  situation,  a redistribution  of  forces  has 
been  proposed,  by  which  each  society  shall  now  become 
responsible  for  its  definite  allotment  of  territory. 

The  political  disturbances  affected  Protestant  enter- 
prises in  northern  Mexico  more  seriously  than  at  the 
South,  but  missionaries,  and  their  boards  behind  them, 
are  planning  for  broader  and  more  vigorous  under- 
takings as  soon  as  circumstances  will  allow. 

The  following  statements  of  the  foreign  secretaries 
of  several  societies  having  work  in  Mexico  are  repre- 
sentative, both  as  to  the  picture  of  conditions  on  the 
field  at  the  time  of  writing  (November,  1916)  and  as 
to  plans  for  the  future. 

Dr.  Ed.  C.  Cook,  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church 
South,  writes : “ The  revolutionary  conditions  in  Mex- 
ico have  seriously  interfered  with  every  department  of 


AMERICAN  HELP— RELIGIOUS  273 


our  work,  resulting  in  the  suspension  of  a number  of 
schools  and  in  general  demoralization  of  the  force  and 
the  program  of  activities.  We  have  in  view,  in  con- 
junction with  other  boards  working  in  Mexico,  a con- 
structive program  for  Christian  work  there  as  soon  as 
the  situation  will  permit.” 

Secretary  S.  Earl  Taylor,  of  the  Methodist  Episco- 
pal Church,  says : “ In  spite  of  unsettled  conditions, 
our  missionaries  have  been  able  to  remain  at  their 
posts.  The  new  government  of  Mexico  is  not  un- 
friendly to  Protestants,  and  the  people,  long  under  the 
horrors  of  bandit  warfare,  are  hungry  for  Divine  con- 
solation and  for  the  blessings  of  peace.  There  is  a 
remarkable  educational  awakening  in  Mexico.  Night 
schools  are  being  opened,  and  the  soldiers  and  men 
past  middle  life  are  being  taught  to  read  and  write. 
There  is  also  an  eagerness  for  the  Word  of  God,  which 
has  no  parallel  in  the  history  of  missionary  endeavour 
in  Mexico.  The  educational,  evangelistic,  and  medi- 
cal phases  of  our  work  have  gone  forward  with  such 
success  as  to  challenge  the  heartiest  cooperation  that 
we  can  render.  Mexico  has  been  neglected,  but  it  is 
our  purpose,  as  soon  as  conditions  permit,  to  enter  that 
torn  and  harassed  land  with  a more  adequate  force  of 
workers  and  to  preach  the  good  news  of  the  kingdom 
in  an  aggressive  way.” 

Dr.  James  L.  Barton  of  the  American  Board  (Con- 
gregational) writes:  “We  expect  to  cooperate  with 
the  other  boards  in  the  conducting  of  a Union  The- 
ological Seminary,  a Union  College,  and  a Union 
Christian  Press.  We  are  eager  to  see  this  cooperative 


274  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


movement  for  Mexico  conscientiously  carried  out  to 
its  proper  and  legitimate  conclusion.  We  all  thor- 
oughly agree  with  your  statement  of  what  Mexico 
needs — not  guns  and  explosives,  but  the  Spirit  of 
Christ  that  will  transform  character  and  not  snuff  out 
lives.  We  do  not  expect  to  take  any  backward  steps, 
but  to  push  forward  with  all  the  strength  and  all  the 
resources  God  gives  us  to  conquer  Mexico  for  Christ.” 
During  periods  of  greatest  disturbance  in  that  coun- 
try, those  missionaries  who  had  been  called  to  this  side 
of  the  border  kept  close  watch  of  the  situation,  anx- 
iously awaiting  developments  which  might  admit  of 
their  return.  Some  whose  work  was  not  far  in  the 
interior  remained  on  the  international  line,  and  in  the 
intervals  of  comparative  quiet  ventured  back  to  their 
fields,  if  only  for  a fortnight’s  stay.  One  of  these 
frequently  grasped  his  suitcase  for  a trip  to  Chihuahua 
(alternating  with  the  attacks  of  Villa  on  that  city). 
Reporting  one  of  these  visits,  he  says : “ I find  our  con- 
gregation here  about  as  large  as  when  I left.  The 
Sunday-school  has  fallen  below  one  hundred  only  twice 
this  year  and  the  evening  services  are  well  attended. 
The  school  has  been  opened  by  the  Mexican  teachers; 
they  have  about  two  hundred  enrolled  and  are  obliged 
constantly  to  turn  away  applicants  for  the  lower  grades 
because  of  lack  of  room.”  “ It  is  touching  to  see  the 
warm  welcome  that  our  people  give  one,  and  their 
great  desire  for  the  return  of  all  the  mission.” 

The  great  state  of  Chihuahua  has  suffered  more  than 
any  other  through  the  depredations  of  the  Villa  ban- 
dits, and  has  been  the  principal  ground  of  international 


AMERICAN  HELP— RELIGIOUS 


275 


difficulties.  What  if  among  the  thousands  already 
effectively  reached  by  the  Gospel  in  those  border 
states,  Francisco  Villa  had  been  converted!  What  a 
saving  of  lives  and  of  horrifying  atrocities;  what  pre- 
vention of  difficulties  in  the  settlement  of  Mexico’s 
internal  affairs  and  in  her  international  relations  would 
have  resulted!  What  would  Francisco  Villa’s  con- 
version a few  years  ago  have  been  worth  to  Mexico 
and  to  the  United  States?  Who  can  tell  how  many 
potential  bandits  have  been  rescued  to  a useful  Chris- 
tian life  as  a result  of  missionary  efforts  in  Mexico? 
Do  missions  pay?  Does  any  other  human  enterprise, 
in  the  long  run,  begin  to  pay  so  well — even  materially? 
What  more  effective  protection  for  our  southern  bor- 
der could  there  be  than  a tier  of  states  dominated  by 
a pure  Christianity,  a broad  region  filled  with  schools 
and  churches  and  gospel-transformed  people?  What 
would  it  mean  to  the  United  States  to  have  an  entire 
nation  of  such  people  at  our  South?  What  would  it 
mean  to  Mexico,  to  the  world,  to  Christ?  Is  it  strange 
that  our  missionaries,  realizing  as  never  before  the 
seriousness  of  the  undertaking,  are  urgently  appealing 
to  their  boards,  and  through  them  to  the  home 
churches,  for  reinforcements  and  for  more  adequate 
equipment  for  the  task  so  hopefully  commenced? 

“ There  is  an  eagerness  for  the  Word  of  God  which 
has  had  no  parallel  in  the  history  of  missionary  en- 
deavour in  Mexico This  testimony  of  Dr.  Taylor 
is  echoed  from  all  parts  of  the  republic.  Is  there  here 
no  challenge  to  Americans  on  whose  lips  are  con- 
stantly the  words,  “ Thy  kingdom  come  ” ? 


276  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


A Mexican  pastor,  now  of  Los  Angeles,  deeply 
grateful  for  what  he  himself  has  received  through  our 
missions,  and  earnestly  longing  that  his  whole  people 
may  be  evangelized,  says : “ Only  a small  beginning 
has  been  made!  Efforts  thus  far  are  utterly  incom- 
mensurate to  the  needs ! The  situation  is  urgent ! ” 
Mexico  to-day  finds  herself  in  a condition  not  un- 
like that  of  the  wounded  man  on  the  Jericho  road; 
robbed  and  maltreated  by  those  of  her  own  nation, 
neglected  by  her  own  priests  and  religious  leaders,  she 
is  awaiting  the  coming  of  a Samaritan  who  will  be  to 
her  a neighbour,  ministering  to  her  need.  “ Going 
into  all  the  world  ” includes  entering  every  section  of 
distracted  Mexico;  and  “preaching  the  Gospel  to 
every  creature  ” means  giving  it  to  Ramon  Montoya, 
Manuel  Reyes,  and  every  one  of  their  countrymen  just 
over  the  line. 


IX 


AMERICAN  HELP  FOR  MEXICO— SOCIAL 

SHOULD  there  be  an  American  invasion  of 
Mexico?  Of  soldiers,  no.  Of  scheming,  ex- 
ploiting land-grabbers  and  speculators,  no.  No 
outside  interference  is  wanted  in  Mexican  politics; 
nor  are  foreigners  welcomed  who  come  in  simply  with 
the  idea  of  benefiting  themselves,  caring  not  a straw 
for  the  country,  showing  no  disposition  to  identify 
themselves  with  its  interests.  But  there  is  abundance 
of  room  in  Mexico  for  the  right  kind  of  immigrants. 
It  may  be  said  that  all  of  that  country  is  now  safe  for 
Americans,  especially  those  of  friendly  spirit.  Our 
newspapers  do  not  fairly  represent  the  situation  across 
the  line.  Their  reports  are  mainly  of  disturbances, 
ignoring  the  prevailing  peaceful,  though  suffering, 
state  of  society. 

Before  the  recent  revolutionary  period  it  is  esti- 
mated that  there  were  not  less  than  one  hundred  thou- 
sand Americans  in  Mexico.  A large  number  of  these 
did  not,  at  any  period  of  the  trouble,  leave  their  homes 
there,  and  a very  considerable  proportion  of  those  who 
withdrew  have  already  returned.  With  the  increasing 
strength  and  confidence  of  the  new  government,  better 
guarantees  will  be  given  for  life  and  property,  and 
American  immigration  of  the  proper  sort  will  be  wel- 

277 


278  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


corned.  Indeed,  the  reopening  of  American  mines  and 
industries  of  all  kinds,  giving  needed  employment  and 
bringing  in  good  money,  will  be  an  important  factor 
in  the  restoration  of  Mexican  prosperity. 

With  the  settling  of  political  conditions  a new  and 
undreamed-of  era  of  enterprise  will  open.  Few  people 
of  this  country  have  any  clear  idea  of  the  enormous 
natural  resources  of  Mexico.  That  land  may  some 
day  easily  support  a population  of  one  hundred  million. 
The  development  of  her  resources  has  scarcely  begun. 
Mexico  needs  just  the  class  of  immigration  which  the 
United  States  can  supply.  There  are  to-day  more 
than  five  hundred  thousand  Mexicans  in  the  United 
States.  They  are  well  received  and  there  is  no  restric- 
tion to  their  coming  among  us.  Should  their  places 
south  of  the  line  all  be  filled  from  the  better  class  of 
American  people,  both  countries  would  immensely  gain 
thereby.  Most  Americans  having  business  interests 
in  Mexico  are  of  estimable  character  and  may  be 
counted  on  to  contribute  materially  toward  the  future 
well-being  of  the  country.  Many  more  of  this  class 
may  feel  the  pull  of  opportunity  and  establish  them- 
selves there,  and  would  to  God  that  the  selfish,  the  un- 
sympathetic, and  those  of  overbearing  spirit  and  de- 
grading morals  might  be  moved  to  turn  back  before 
reaching  the  border. 

What  is  there  to  attract  Americans  to  that  sunny 
Southland?  The  great  rubber,  coffee,  and  sugar  op- 
portunities, commercial  fruits  in  endless  variety,  pre- 
cious metals,  lumber  enterprises,  calls  for  factories, 
flouring  mills,  tanneries,  packing  houses,  and  fruit 


AMERICAN  HELP— SOCIAL 


279 


nurseries.  Mexican  cities  are  to  grow  as  never  here- 
tofore and  immense  unsettled  areas  now  vacant  are 
to  be  peopled.  For  general  and  for  specialized  farming 
countless  leagues  of  rich  valley  land  await  the  first 
touch  of  the  plough.  Magnificent  sites  for  storage 
reservoirs  are  awaiting  engineers  and  capital  for  their 
development,  and  extensive  arid  regions  are  to  be  trans- 
formed into  growing  fields  and  orchards  through  irri- 
gating systems  yet  to  be.  In  some  localities  there  is 
artesian  water  to  be  developed,  and  in  others  pumping 
plants  will  multiply  marvellously  the  value  of  appar- 
ently desert  land. 

American  doctors  find  attractive  openings  in  Mex- 
ico, as  do  dentists,  photographers,  merchants,  commer- 
cial travellers,  surveyors,  and  assayers. 

The  prospective  settler  should  move  cautiously.  He 
should  make  thorough  investigation  before  locating 
or  making  investment : should  look  well  into  the  valid- 
ity of  property  titles,  should  satisfy  himself  as  to  cli- 
matic conditions  the  year  through.  He  should  inform 
himself  of  possible  disadvantages  and  count  well  all 
costs  before  making  important  decisions. 

The  call  to  Mexico  will  come  most  strongly  to  young 
people  or  to  those  well  under  middle  life.  Graduates 
of  colleges,  of  technical  and  agricultural  schools, 
student  volunteers,  active  Young  People’s  Society 
members — all  with  a few  years  of  practical  business 
experience  in  the  homeland  to  test  themselves — these 
are  of  the  sort  that  Mexico  needs,  leaders  in  whatever 
line  they  may  undertake. 

What  will  be  the  dominant  motive  deciding  these 


280  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


young  people  to  enter  Mexico?  If  they  are  Christians, 
what  else  should  it  be  than  to  help  in  the  regeneration 
of  that  country,  to  give  a brotherly  helping  hand  wher- 
ever needed,  to  reflect  in  daily  life  the  spirit  of  the 
Master,  as  a neighbour,  as  a member  of  the  commu- 
nity, in  all  business  dealings  and  relations?  A sec- 
ondary motive,  yet  important,  will  be  to  make  a living, 
even  to  enjoy  a degree  of  prosperity  and  to  so  lead  in 
one’s  chosen  line  of  work  as  to  furnish  a helpful  ex- 
ample to  those  about  him.  Many  will  find  the  business 
openings  so  good  and  the  allurements  of  fortune  so 
great  that  caution  is  necessary.  Let  Mexico  and  the 
interests  of  her  people  be  always  first. 

On  arrival,  these  Americans  should  endeavour  to 
make  friends  of  their  new  neighbours.  Good  teachers 
will  everywhere  be  found  for  instruction  in  Spanish, 
and  in  exchange  they  and  others  may  want  English. 
In  a few  days  the  newcomer  will  have  at  command  the 
usual  salutations,  also  enough  of  the  buyer’s  vocabu- 
lary to  fill  his  market  basket.  The  more  one  mingles 
with  the  people  the  sooner  he  will  pick  up  their  idioms, 
and  he  who  seeks  friends  will  be  sure  to  find  them. 

It  has  not  been  customary  for  Americans  on  estab- 
lishing themselves  in  Mexico  to  take  out  naturaliza- 
tion papers  and  become  Mexican  citizens.  Even  those 
who  locate  with  the  idea  of  permanency  rarely  do  this. 
One  naturally  hesitates  deliberately  to  place  himself 
beyond  the  protection  of  the  old  home  government 
and  trust  himself  to  the  care  of  the  foreign  one  with 
its  reputation  of  instability.  Mexicans  in  the  United 
States  follow  the  same  course,  few  becoming  citizens. 


AMERICAN  HELP— SOCIAL 


281 


Nevertheless,  for  the  class  of  Americans  which  Mexico 
now  needs,  for  the  mutual  good  of  the  country  and  of 
the  new  citizen,  I unhesitatingly  and  urgently  recom- 
mend Mexican  citizenship.  Nothing  the  immigrants 
can  do  will  so  quickly  secure  for  them  the  confidence 
and  favour  of  the  Mexican  people  as  the  fact  that  they 
seek  to  become  citizens.  From  the  government  officials 
down  to  the  humblest  neighbour,  all  will  appreciate  the 
token  of  confidence  and  will  admire  the  courage  of  the 
act.  The  step  will  tend  to  convince  all  of  the  strangers’ 
genuine  interest  in  the  country,  its  people,  its  gov- 
ernment, its  upbuilding.  “ They  are  becoming  Mexi- 
cans; they  are  identifying  themselves  with  us” — this 
will  add  to  their  popularity  and  influence.  My  Mexi- 
can friends  say,  and  they  know,  “ Such  naturalized 
citizens,  if  they  are  fitted  for  leadership,  would  in  time 
find  themselves  occupying  public  offices  in  their  com- 
munities and  in  their  states.  They  could  accomplish 
vastly  more  for  their  adopted  land  than  by  remaining 
foreigners.”  Should  such  important  procedure  on  the 
part  of  American  immigrants  become  common — al- 
ways granted  that  they  be  of  the  right  class — popular 
feeling  in  Mexico  would  be  revolutionized.  Confi- 
dence and  good  understanding  would  take  the  place  of 
suspicion  and  ill  will. 

Especial  interest  would  naturally  be  taken  by  the 
Mexican  government  that  such  colonists  should  not 
have  reason  to  regret  their  change  of  citizenship.  In 
proportion  to  the  number  of  these  ingoing  Americans 
would  be  the  reflex  benefit  to  the  United  States,  and 
in  this  way,  as  by  no  other,  might  many  problems  as  to 


282  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


the  political,  commercial,  and  social  relations  between 
the  two  countries  be  solved.  In  the  next  quarter  cen- 
tury many  Americans  will  make  their  homes  in  Mexico. 
Our  relations  with  that  country  ought  to  grow  in  inti- 
macy, and  it  lies  largely  in  the  power  of  Americans 
to  determine  whether  these  are  to  increase  in  mutual 
friendliness  and  profit. 

I venture  other  suggestions  for  those  Americans 
who,  establishing  themselves  in  Mexico,  shall  attempt 
to  have  a part  in  her  transformation.  The  mission- 
aries will  achieve  large  results  through  preaching, 
teaching,  touring,  by  printed  word,  and  through  train- 
ing and  directing  other  workers.  Yet,  after  all,  their 
lives,  their  example,  the  sympathetic,  Christ-like  spirit 
exhibited  in  their  daily  contact  with  the  people  will  be 
the  great  transforming  influence,  without  which  what- 
ever they  do  will  be  of  little  value.  This  same  kind 
of  daily  living  and  friendly  spirit  may  be  practised  in 
Mexico  by  thousands  of  other  Americans  who  are  sent 
by  no  society,  whose  plan  may  not  definitely  include 
religious  work,  and  whose  time  is  mainly  employed  in 
secular  occupations.  These  colonists  will  have  no 
mean  opportunities  for  influencing  beneficently  the 
communities  where  they  may  locate.  The  Mexicans 
are  a very  sociable  people  and  little  difficulty  will  be 
encountered  in  finding  one’s  way  into  their  social  life. 
The  Mexican  custom  of  neighbourly  calls  will  include 
the  newcomers,  if  these  show  themselves  neighbourly. 
They  will  be  invited  to  join  in  picnics,  civic  festivals, 
and  entertainments,  if  the  interest  to  do  so  is  plain. 
It  will  not  be  long  before  the  recent  strangers  may — 


AMERICAN  HELP— SOCIAL 


283 


unobtrusively — begin  to  direct  social  interest  into  new 
channels,  as  reading  circles,  for  example.  The  pro- 
gram of  readings  may  be  planned  to  include  not  only 
subjects  of  practical  concern  to  those  particular  fami- 
lies, but  such  as  will  call  attention  to  and  provoke  dis- 
cussion of  matters  important,  yet  little  considered  in 
that  neighbourhood. 

A reading  circle  might  naturally  develop  into  con- 
ferences on  such  subjects  as  “ Good  Roads,”  “ Bet- 
ter Fruits,”  “ Home  Hygiene,”  “ City  Sanitation,” 
“ Care  of  Children,”  “ Evils  of  Alcohol,”  “ Effects  of 
Tobacco,”  etc.  On  many  of  these  subjects  there  is 
lamentable  lack  of  information,  and  thus  no  public 
sentiment.  In  conjunction  with  like-minded  friends  in 
other  places,  temperance  conventions  could  be  arranged 
in  which  able  speakers  would  present  the  subject  in  a 
way  to  make  profound  impression  on  those  whose  at- 
tention was  called  to  it,  perhaps  for  the  first  time. 
The  anti-saloon  movement  is  destined  to  include  Mex- 
ico in  its  world  sweep,  and  her  redemption  will  never 
be  effected  until  the  universal,  efficiency-destroying 
cigarette  is  likewise  banished. 

It  will  be  easy  to  introduce  into  the  reading  circle 
program  selections  from  the  Bible.  Indeed,  no  read- 
ings would  be  listened  to  with  deeper  interest,  espe- 
cially by  mothers.  To  the  most  of  these  nominally 
Catholic  people  the  Bible  is  an  unopened  book.  Who 
can  say  what  might  result  in  a neighbourhood  from  the 
tactful,  prayerful  reading  of  God’s  Word? 

Christian  colonists  will  desire  to  cooperate  in  every 
possible  way  with  regular  missionaries,  and  these  will 


284  THIRTY  YEARS  WITH  THE  MEXICANS 


rejoice  to  welcome  such  lay-workers.  Social  centres, 
recommended  in  work  for  the  Mexicans  of  the  United 
States,  might  well  become  common  in  Mexico.  In  con- 
nection with  these  there  could  be  elevating  entertain- 
ments and  popular  lecture  courses.  The  masses  need 
information  on  many  a question  vital  to  their  highest 
interests.  Before  they  can  intelligently  exercise  the 
right  of  franchise  they  need  instruction  in  the  princi- 
ples of  democracy  and  good  government.  Along  lines 
of  public  and  private  morals  there  is  room  for  plain 
teaching.  There  is  needed  no  uncertain  application  of 
Christian  doctrine  to  every-day  business  dealings  be- 
tween man  and  his  fellowman.  For  all  public  and 
individual  betterment  preaching  is  good;  popular  ad- 
dresses, conferences,  and  conventions  are  important, 
but  nothing  effects  so  much  as  concrete  example,  or  can 
take  its  place.  Men  and  women  whose  ideas  are  hazy 
regarding  such  common  terms  as  justice,  truth,  purity, 
and  temperance  can  understand  them  when  transmuted 
by  their  neighbour  into  deeds.  No  explanations  which 
the  preacher  can  make  explain  so  well  as  his  life,  day 
in  and  day  out.  Put  a little  group  of  consecrated 
Christian  families  into  every  city  and  country  town  of 
Mexico  and  the  regeneration  of  the  land  would  be 
assured.  I do  not  ignore  the  fact  that  there  are  multi- 
tudes of  devout  Christians  among  the  Roman  Catho- 
lics of  Mexico  and  that  nominally  attached  to  the  same 
Church  there  is  a splendid  class  of  citizens  who  are 
working  earnestly  for  the  right  development  of  their 
native  land;  nor  do  I forget  the  great  and  rapidly 
growing  body  of  Protestant  Mexicans  who  are  to  have 


AMERICAN  HELP— SOCIAL 


285 


the  most  prominent  part  in  the  reformation  of  their 
people.  I have  attempted  to  indicate  here  how  Amer- 
icans may  share  in  the  reconstruction  and  salvation  of 
Mexico. 

There  certainly  will  be  a New  Mexico.  That  coun- 
try will  some  day  take  her  place  among  the  stable,  the 
powerful,  the  highly  esteemed  nations  of  the  world, 
contributing  her  full  share  to  the  progress  of  world 
civilization.  In  another  thirty  years  great  advance 
will  have  been  made  toward  realizing  this  ideal.  While 
happily  retaining  her  integrity  as  a sovereign  nation 
and  gaining  stability  of  government  through  the  rise 
of  her  common  people,  it  is  earnestly  hoped  that  her 
relations  with  the  mighty  nation  across  her  border  may 
grow  in  confidence,  in  cordiality,  and  in  intimacy.  As 
respects  commercial  and  social  intercourse,  Mexico 
may  one  day  seem  more  like  a great  southern  extension 
of  our  own  country  than  a foreign  land.  It  should  be 
written  that  the  transformation  of  Mexico  was  in  no 
small  measure  due  to  the  generous  sympathy  and  co- 
operation of  her  Big  Christian  Neighbour  at  the  North. 


2 


Printed  in  the  United  States  of  America 


Date  Due 


Mr  £ i r « 

£8 

51 

PE2  7-5; 

X;-  •> 

JAN  1 0 ’2 

12 

FE3  7 12% 

m $ J 

• • • 

9 

Thirty  years  with  the  Mexicans:  in  peace 
Princeton  Theological  Seminary-Speer  Library 


1012  00137  2244 


